RefrigerantHQ's Pressure Charts

One of the very first steps when it comes to diagnosing your home air conditioner, refrigerator, or even your vehicle’s air conditioner is understanding the temperature and the current pressure that your system is operating at. Having these facts along with the saturation point, the subcool, and the superheat  numbers for the refrigerant you are working on are essential when it comes to really understanding what is going wrong with your system.

After a visual inspection the very next step for the most seasoned technicians is pulling out their gauges and checking the pressure and temperature. It just becomes second nature after enough calls. I have heard stories of rookie techs calling some of the pros on their team for help on a system that they’re stuck on. It doesn’t matter what the situation is. It doesn’t matter if you’re in Miami or in Fargo. It will never fail that one of the first questions the pros ask the rookie is what is your subcool and what is your superheat? Having  and understanding these numbers is key to figuring out what to do next.

But, these numbers won’t do you any good if you don’t know what refrigerant you are dealing with and what the refrigerant’s boiling point is at each pressure level. This article aims at providing you with just that information.

R-12 Pressure Chart

R-12 is one of those classic refrigerants that nearly everyone has heard of before. Even if you are not part of the industry chances are you have heard of R-12. You see, R-12 is a CFC refrigerant and was one of the first artificially created refrigerants to see widespread usage. It was in the 1930’s that the DuPont corporation teamed up with General Motors to come up with a safe, reliable, and cheap refrigerant. All of the previous refrigerants like ammonia, propane, isobutane, and even carbon dioxide all had their own problems. Sometimes it was flammability, toxicity, or operating pressure. Regardless of why these natural refrigerants weren’t working it was clear that the market needed a different kind of refrigerant.

It was during this partnership that we began to see the rise of artificial refrigerant classifications known as CFCs and HCFCs. Only shortly after their invention these new refrigerants began to take the world by storm. Not more then thirty years later and you could find R-12 all over the world in all kinds of different applications. Its explosive growth continued over the years. So did the related refrigerants known as R-11, R-22, R-502 and many others. The world was being filled with CFC and HCFC refrigerants.

It was in the 1980’s that a team of scientists discovered that these refrigerants did have a downside… and it was a big one. You see if these refrigerants were vented into the atmosphere either through damage, mistake, or malfeasance the chlorine in these refrigerants would make its way up into the Stratosphere. In here the sun’s ultraviolet rays would break down the chlorine. This broken down chlorine would chip away at what’s known as the Ozone layer. Eventually a hole developed which caused the world to band together and create a global treaty known as the Montreal Protocol. The treaty aimed at phasing out all of these Ozone damaging refrigerants.

One of the first refrigerants to go was our friend R-12. At this point in time, in the early 1990’s, R-12 had seen the majority of it’s usage in automobile air conditioning. R-12 was banned in new automobiles and was replaced with by the HFC refrigerant we all know today as R-134a. Now, there are still some R-12 applications out there today. Most of these are through antique car collectors but there are other applications out there as well.

If you are working on an R-12 machine you are going to need to know your pressures. Let’s take a look at our pressure chart. (Note that the first few pressure values  are in Vacuum inches in Hg.):

Temp (F)Temp (C)Pressure (PSIG)
-40-4011
-34.96-37.28.4
-29.92-34.45.5
-25.06-31.72.3
-20.02-28.90.6
-14.98-26.12.4
-9.94-23.34.5
-5.08-20.66.7
-0.04-17.89.2
5-1511.8
10.04-12.214.6
15.08-9.417.7
19.94-6.721
24.98-3.924.6
30.02-1.128.5
35.061.732.6
39.924.437
44.967.241.7
501046.7
55.0412.852
60.0815.657.7
64.9418.363.8
69.9821.170.2
75.0223.977
80.0626.784.2
84.9229.491.8
89.9632.299.8
9535108
100.0437.8117
105.0840.6127
109.9443.3136
114.9846.1147
120.0248.9158
125.0651.7169
129.9254.4181
134.9657.2194
14060207
145.0462.8220
150.0865.6234

 

RefrigerantHQ's Pressure Charts

One of the very first steps when it comes to diagnosing your home air conditioner, refrigerator, or even your vehicle’s air conditioner is understanding the temperature and the current pressure that your system is operating at. Having these facts along with the saturation point, the subcool, and the superheat  numbers for the refrigerant you are working on are essential when it comes to really understanding what is going wrong with your system.

After a visual inspection the very next step for the most seasoned technicians is pulling out their gauges and checking the pressure and temperature. It just becomes second nature after enough calls. I have heard stories of rookie techs calling some of the pros on their team for help on a system that they’re stuck on. It doesn’t matter what the situation is. It doesn’t matter if you’re in Miami or in Fargo. It will never fail that one of the first questions the pros ask the rookie is what is your subcool and what is your superheat? Having  and understanding these numbers is key to figuring out what to do next.

But, these numbers won’t do you any good if you don’t know what refrigerant you are dealing with and what the refrigerant’s boiling point is at each pressure level. This article aims at providing you with just that information.

R-502 Pressure Chart

R-502 is one of those refrigerants you just do not see around much anymore. R-502 is a CFC refrigerant just like its cousin refrigerant R-12 and R-11. All of these refrigerants were found to be damaging the Ozone layer when they were released into the atmosphere. Because of this, these refrigerants were phased out across the world through a global treaty known as the Montreal Protocol. R-12 was one of the first ones to go but R-502 wasn’t far behind. It’s complete phase out occurred in 1995.

Originally, R-502 was designed to operate in a low temperature refrigerant applications. It was meant as an alternative to the very popular HCFC known as R-22. R-502 had an overall lower discharge temperature and an improved capacity allowance when compared to R-22. This made it a great alternative… until the phase outs began. Nowadays it is a rare feat to find a functioning R-502 system. Most of these have been retired due to old age or they have been retrofitted to accept a new refrigerant. The most common replacement refrigerant was the HFC R-404A, but now even 404A is being phased out due to it’s high Global Warming Potential.

In the off chance that you do come across a R-502 application then you will need to know the pressures. Let’s take a look at our pressure chart below:

Temp (F)Temp (C)Pressure (PSIG)
-40-404.1
-34.96-37.26.5
-29.92-34.49.2
-25.06-31.712.1
-20.02-28.915.3
-14.98-26.118.8
-9.94-23.322.6
-5.08-20.626.7
-0.04-17.831.1
5-1535.9
10.04-12.241
15.08-9.446.5
19.94-6.752.4
24.98-3.958.8
30.02-1.165.6
35.061.772.8
39.924.480.5
44.967.288.7
501097.4
55.0412.8107
60.0815.6116
64.9418.3127
69.9821.1138
75.0223.9149
80.0626.7161
84.9229.4174
89.9632.2187
9535201
100.0437.8216
105.0840.6232
109.9443.3248
114.9846.1265
120.0248.9283
125.0651.7301
129.9254.4321
134.9657.2341
14060363

RefrigerantHQ's Pressure Charts

One of the very first steps when it comes to diagnosing your home air conditioner, refrigerator, or even your vehicle’s air conditioner is understanding the temperature and the current pressure that your system is operating at. Having these facts along with the saturation point, the subcool, and the superheat  numbers for the refrigerant you are working on are essential when it comes to really understanding what is going wrong with your system.

After a visual inspection the very next step for the most seasoned technicians is pulling out their gauges and checking the pressure and temperature. It just becomes second nature after enough calls. I have heard stories of rookie techs calling some of the pros on their team for help on a system that they’re stuck on. It doesn’t matter what the situation is. It doesn’t matter if you’re in Miami or in Fargo. It will never fail that one of the first questions the pros ask the rookie is what is your subcool and what is your superheat? Having  and understanding these numbers is key to figuring out what to do next.

But, these numbers won’t do you any good if you don’t know what refrigerant you are dealing with and what the refrigerant’s boiling point is at each pressure level. This article aims at providing you with just that information.

R-717 Ammonia Pressure Chart

Ammonia, also known as R-717, is one of the oldest refrigerants. It’s origins as a refrigerant can be traced all the way back to the 1800’s and it was one of the first refrigerants used in a variety of applications. It is also widely considered one of the most efficient refrigerants available. The downside though is that ammonia is toxic in small quantities and can be deadly when released in larger quantities.

When the first artificial refrigerants were invented in the 1930’s the world began to move away from the natural refrigerants including ammonia. These artificial refrigerants like R-12 and R-22 were becoming the refrigerant used in nearly every application.  It wasn’t until the 1980’s and 1990’s, when these artificial refrigerants began to be phased out, that we saw natural refrigerants began to rise again.

In today’s world R-717 has made an amazing comeback. It can be found in varying ranges of applications. Because it is so efficient it is often used in very large applications such as meat packing/processing plants, refrigerated warehousing, and even ice rinks. Unfortunately, these large quantities of ammonia can also lead to disaster if a leak occurs. In some extreme cases deaths have occurred due to large ammonia refrigerant leaks. It is always best practice to maintenance and take proper care of your system to ensure that no leaks can occur and if they do that they are minimal.

Let’s take a look at our pressure chart on ammonia:

Temp (F)Temp (C)Pressure (PSIG)
15870-13.1
-90.4-68-12.85
-86.8-66-12.58
-83.2-64-12.26
-79.6-62-11.91
-76-60-11.51
-72.4-58-11.07
-68.8-56-10.58
-65.2-54-10.04
-61.6-52-9.43
-58-50-8.77
-54.4-48-8.03
-50.8-46-7.22
-47.2-44-6.33
-43.6-42-5.36
-40-40-4.29
-36.4-38-3.13
-32.8-36-1.86
-29.2-34-0.49
-25.6-321.01
-22-302.63
-18.4-284.38
-14.8-266.27
-11.2-248.31
-7.6-2210.51
-4-2012.87
-0.4-1815.41
3.2-1618.13
6.8-1421.04
10.4-1224.15
14-1027.46
17.6-831.01
21.2-634.78
24.8-438.79
28.4-243.05
32047.57
35.6252.37
39.2457.45
42.8662.82
46.4868.5
501074.49
53.61280.82
57.21487.48
60.81694.5
64.418101.88
6820109.65
71.622117.8
75.224126.35
78.826135.31
82.428144.71
8630154.56
89.632164.85
93.234175.61
96.836186.86
100.438198.59
10440210.84
107.642223.62
111.244236.93
114.846250.81
118.448265.23
12250280.24
125.652295.86
129.254312.08
132.856328.93
136.458346.42
14060364.57
143.662383.39
147.264402.91
150.866423.14
154.468444.08
15870465.77

RefrigerantHQ's Pressure Charts

One of the very first steps when it comes to diagnosing your home air conditioner, refrigerator, or even your vehicle’s air conditioner is understanding the temperature and the current pressure that your system is operating at. Having these facts along with the saturation point, the subcool, and the superheat  numbers for the refrigerant you are working on are essential when it comes to really understanding what is going wrong with your system.

After a visual inspection the very next step for the most seasoned technicians is pulling out their gauges and checking the pressure and temperature. It just becomes second nature after enough calls. I have heard stories of rookie techs calling some of the pros on their team for help on a system that they’re stuck on. It doesn’t matter what the situation is. It doesn’t matter if you’re in Miami or in Fargo. It will never fail that one of the first questions the pros ask the rookie is what is your subcool and what is your superheat? Having  and understanding these numbers is key to figuring out what to do next.

But, these numbers won’t do you any good if you don’t know what refrigerant you are dealing with and what the refrigerant’s boiling point is at each pressure level. This article aims at providing you with just that information.

R-407C Pressure Chart

R-407C is one of the many replacement products for the now phased out R-22. R-22’s official phase down started in 2010 and the final phase out began on January 1st, 2020. Over that ten year period there were hundreds, and I really mean hundreds, of R-22 alternatives created. One of these replacement products was the hydroflurocarbon blend known as R-407C.

R-407C is a zeotropic blend of R-32 (Difluromethane), R-125, and R-134a (Tetrafluoroethane). It is not a drop in replacement on R-22 machines. If you wish to use this product you will need to vacate all of the old R-22 out of the system. This is due to the R-22 systems using mineral oil and this HFC blend using POE oil. You will also need to replace the compressor as well. If this is not done then you risk destroying your air conditioner.

It is difficult to say exactly how long R-407C will be around. With each year that passes the R-22 machines grow older and older. By the year 2030 there will be very few of them left. Before then though, R-407C will still be needed.

Let’s take a look at our pressure chart:

Temp (F)Temp (C)Liquid Pressure (PSIG)Vapor Pressure (PSIG)
-94-70-11.28-12.63
-90.4-68-10.82-12.32
-86.8-66-10.31-11.97
-83.2-64-9.75-11.59
-79.6-62-9.14-11.15
-76-60-8.46-10.67
-72.4-58-7.71-10.14
-68.8-56-6.9-9.55
-65.2-54-6.01-8.9
-61.6-52-5.04-8.19
-58-50-3.98-7.41
-54.4-48-2.84-6.55
-50.8-46-1.6-5.61
-47.2-44-0.26-4.59
-43.6-421.19-3.48
-40-402.75-2.27
-36.4-384.43-0.96
-32.8-366.230.46
-29.2-348.161.99
-25.6-3210.233.64
-22-3012.455.42
-18.4-2814.817.33
-14.8-2617.339.38
-11.2-2420.0111.58
-7.6-2222.8713.93
-4-2025.916.44
-0.4-1829.1219.12
3.2-1632.5321.98
6.8-1436.1425.02
10.4-1239.9628.25
14-1043.9931.68
17.6-848.2535.32
21.2-652.7339.17
24.8-457.4643.25
28.4-262.4347.56
32067.6552.11
35.6273.1456.92
39.2478.961.98
42.8684.9467.31
46.4891.2772.92
501097.8978.82
53.612104.8285.01
57.214112.0691.51
60.816119.6398.33
64.418127.53105.48
6820135.76112.96
71.622144.35120.79
75.224153.29128.98
78.826162.62137.55
82.428172.3146.48
8630182.38155.82
89.632192.86165.56
93.234203.74175.71
96.836215.04186.3
100.438226.77197.32
10440238.92208.8
107.642251.53220.75
111.244264.6233.19
114.846278.12246.12
118.448292.13259.56
12250306.63273.54
125.652321.62288.06
129.254337.14303.14
132.856353.18318.81
136.458369.74335.08
14060386.85351.97
143.662404.52369.52
147.264422.78387.73
150.866441.6406.65
154.468461.03426.31
15870481.05446.75

A few months ago I had written an article on a newly introduced bill in the United States Senate. This bill known as the, ‘American Innovation and Manufacturing Act,’ aimed at phasing down the usage of HFC refrigerants over the next fifteen years. This same bill was actually introduced back in February of 2018 as well, but it ended up going nowhere. Now, in January of 2020, this bill has thirty-two backers from both parties.

It is still quite a long stretch if this bill gains further traction, but there was a sign of hope this week. A few days ago the United States House introduced their own version of the proposed HFC refrigerant phase down bill. The House bill was introduced into a subcommittee by two Democrats and two Republicans from New York, Texas, and California. The bill itself was very similar to the Senate bill. This House bill will phase down usage of HFC refrigerants by eighty-five percent over a fifteen year period.

Both bills aim to accomplish this by giving the phase down and phase out authority to the Environmental Protection Agency. It would then be up to the EPA to determine which refrigerants are phased down, phased out, and what timeline they would follow. You could think of this as the Montreal Protocol/Clean Air Act part two. It is the same thing that we saw in the 1990’s and 2000’s when the EPA began phasing out CFC and HCFC refrigerants such as R-12, R-502, and most recently R-22.

These bills are not only being backed by both Republicans and Democrats but they are also seeing outside support from such affiliations like the Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI); the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC); the US Chamber of Commerce; and the Alliance for Responsible Atmospheric Policy (ARAP). You will also see large refrigerant manufacturers like Chemours or Honeywell backing these bills. There is a lot of lobbying money involved with these bills.

All of these supporting parties claim that by phasing out HFC refrigerants the United States will see a tremendous growth in jobs and our economy. The numbers cited for the Senate bill state that over one-hundred and fifty-thousand jobs would be created and that we would see thirty-nine billion dollars in economic growth from the passing of this bill. On top of all that we would be introducing climate friendly polices.

History

What you read above was the official selling point for these bills. Jobs, growth, and climate. I’m sorry to say though folks, I just don’t buy it. These interested parties have been trying to phase down HFC refrigerants for the past five years and with each passing year they have been met with failure. I’m just glad that they are trying this the legal way now instead of trying to circumvent the system.

This all started back in the summer of 2015. It was then that the EPA introduced a new rule for their SNAP program. This rule, known as rule 20, was the first step at the EPA trying to phase down HFC refrigerants. Here’s the thing though, the EPA cited their authority to phase down HFC refrigerants from the Clean Air Act and the Montreal Protocol. The problem with this is that these laws/treaties were only meant for Ozone depleting substances such as CFC and HCFC refrigerants. These refrigerants contained chlorine and when that chlorine made its way into the Stratosphere it chipped away at the Ozone.

HFC refrigerants such as the ever popular ones like R-134a, R-404A, and R-410A do NOT damage the Ozone. Not in the slightest. These refrigerants do not contain chlorine and therefore cannot harm the Ozone. The problem with these refrigerants is what’s known as their Global Warming Potential (GWP). These refrigerants have a very high GWP number. This in turn means they are super Greenhouse Gases. The higher the GWP number the more impact the refrigerant has on Global Warming.

So, the EPA tried to extend their authority on Ozone depleting substances over to non-Ozone depleting substances. The sad part was that this was taken as the law of the land for a few years. After the new rule was introduced the industry and country just accepted it as the new status quo. It wasn’t until 2017 that a federal court ruled against the EPA citing that they overextended their authority and that they did NOT have the power to phase out HFC refrigerants as well. If they wanted to do this then they needed new legislation that would give them such powers.

This ruling caught everyone by surprise. Everyone had just assumed that the EPA’s overreach would just be accepted. Larger refrigerant manufacturers, who had a vested interest in phasing down HFC refrigerants, appealed the ruling hoping to get a different result in favor of the EPA. But, the results ended up being the same. The EPA’s plans for HFC phase down had been nixed. There was now no set plan within the US to phase down these climate damaging refrigerant gases.

It was a bit later that what’s known as the Kigali Amendment was moving forward. This amendment was an addendum to the now famous Montreal Protocol. The amendment was to phase down HFC refrigerants across the world. It was very similar to the EPA’s proposed HFC phase down plan. The United States, under the Obama Administration, signed the treaty amendment. All that needed to be done was to ratify the amendment in the Senate for it to become law within the United States. However, after Donald Trump came to power the Senate never received the chance to ratify the Kigali Amendment. There has been no indication from the Trump Administration that they will send the amendment to the Senate to ratify. It will instead sit in purgatory.

Conclusion

It was after the failed EPA ruling and the stagnation on the Kigali Amendment that lobbyists began working on creating the bills we now have within the Senate and the House. This seems to be the only chance left to phase down HFC refrigerants across the country. I am still very skeptical of this working though folks. Yes, while the chances have improved now that there are two bills in both Houses there is still on very large obstacle in the way… Donald Trump.

I mean think about it for a moment. If Trump hasn’t backed Kigali and has instead sat on it for years… why in the world would he sign these HFC bills coming from the Houses? It doesn’t make sense. Perhaps their hope here is that by the time the bills have left the lower committees and are ready to began being voted on the Election would have occurred and a new President could be coming to the White House.

Otherwise, if Trump is elected again then there is no chance that this bill misses the veto… and that is if it even clears both Houses. If we want an HFC phase down in the near future within the United States then there are two possible ways. The first is through attrition. Pressure the manufacturers to switch to newer more climate friendly refrigerants. Then, over time, the HFCs will slowly fade away. We are already seeing this with R-134a in automobile applications. Ninety percent of the vehicles made in 2020 are using the climate friendly 1234yf. R-134a is dying slowly.

The other option, which is admittedly more messy, is having states come up with their own individual phase down policies. There are quite a few states that have already done this such as California, New York, and Washington. If enough states get on board then you will have that war of attrition again as manufacturers will be forced to switch to more climate friendly options. The downside here is you get a mish-mash of laws and regulations that vary by state. This can make it very difficult for businesses and manufacturers to operate in multiple states.

All that being said folks, I don’t have much hope in these bills moving forward. Even if they gather the votes they have that almighty veto to contend with. I’ve been wrong before though, so who knows for sure. If nothing happens this year then watch the election and see whom gets elected. If it’s a Democrat then we may yet see HFCs being phased down sometime in 2021.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Sources:

MRCOOL DIY Series Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner & Heat Pump

A friend of mine is approaching retirement. He has just a few years left and he is already making plans. One of these plans of his was to purchase a small cottage in the Ozarks. For those of you who aren’t from Kansas City, the Ozarks are a few hours south of here and are very similar to Appalachia. There are lots of forests, rivers, and hunting to be had. The place he purchased came with over thirty acres to play around with. The home though was rather small at only around twelve-hundred square feet. The home was also very old and did not have a central air conditioning system. There was an old window unit in the living room that did a mediocre job of cooling the home but it didn’t help for the winter months, it didn’t reach the bedrooms, and it needed to be replaced anyways.

He brought this up a few weeks ago when we were having a few and I told him to look into getting a ductless system. You see a ductless system can give you significantly more power then a standard window or mobile air conditioner. Along with the additional power it is much less of an eye sore. I didn’t see the old window unit that he had at his home but I can only imagine what it looked like. You’ve all seen them. Those old rusted looking units that look like they could fall at any moment. A ductless system mounts to your interior wall and to the outside of your home. You don’t lose a window. You don’t have to cut a huge hole in your wall to fit the wall unit. All you need is a three to four inch hole to fit the refrigerant lines through and you are good to go!

Personally, I am a big fan of ductless systems. Obviously, I am going to go with a central unit first if it’s possible, but if it’s not then I am going for the ductless. Yes they are more expensive but you are getting a better product too. In this article we are going to take an in-depth look at one of these ductless systems, MRCool Do-It-Yourself Smart Air Conditioner and Heater.

Please note that this will be a comprehensive review. I will try and cover everything including sizing requirements, installation, product features, the pros, and the cons. You can expect a lot of reading on your part but at the end you will definitely know what you are getting into and if this is the right product for you and your family.

Before You Buy

Ok folks so before we get into the features and the pros/cons of these air conditioners from MRCOOL I want to cover a few topics: Sizing and Installation. These sections are key for when you are shopping for a ductless system. The sizing allows you to accurately predict exactly what size air conditioner that you need and the install section will give you an idea of what to expect when the air conditioner arrives at your home.

Sizing

Before you buy we need to understand how sizing in air conditioning system works. It is not as simple as just picking the biggest and baddest model on the market. If you purchase a unit that is rated to cool one-thousand square feet and you put it in your one-hundred and fifty square feet office your air conditioner is going to have difficulty extracting the humidity from the air as well as evenly distributing the cooler air. The end result will be hot and cool spots throughout the room. That isn’t even mentioning the increased monthly cost to run a much larger machine then you needed in the first place. This will leave you feeling frustrated due to the hot and cool spots as well as paying more money per month then you should be.

Now, if we do the inverse of this scenario and buy a smaller air conditioner for a much larger area your unit will be running constantly all day and night just trying to keep up by cooling the larger square footage. This will result in the room not being as cold as it should be as well as significantly increasing the energy bills for running your AC non-stop. Remember folks, air conditioners are supposed to hit a desired temperature, turn off, and then turn back on when the temperature begins to rise. If they are running constantly that means higher bills as well as quicker parts failure on the unit.

To understand air conditioner sizing you need to understand British Thermal Units, or BTUs. If you have already been looking online or in stores you have probably noticed that window air conditioners always have a BTU number in their description. BTUs are the traditional measurement unit of heat.  In the air conditioning world BTUs are a measurement of the cooling capacity of your window air conditioner. The bigger the number of BTUs the more powerful and the higher cooling capacity of your A/C unit.  As a standard measurement an air conditioner needs around thirty BTUs for each square foot of living space that you wish to cool. Using that standard measurement let’s do some match based off of the 24,000 BTU rating example we pulled from earlier.

24,000 / 30 = 800 square feet

To ensure that you are buying the right sized air conditioner for your room it is best to measure it. To get the square footage of your room measure the width and depth of your room and then multiply the numbers together to get your square footage. As an example if you have a ten foot by eleven foot room you have one-hundred and ten square foot.

There are also other considerations when looking at your room. Yes, the size of the room definitely matters but these other scenarios could have a play into what kind of air conditioner you should purchase such as is the room sunny all day? How many people will be in the room at a time? How tall is the ceiling? Is the room in the kitchen or other hot appliance? All of these are signs that you need to increase the BTUs for your air conditioner.

The MRCOOL Ductless Systems come in a variety of sizes. To give you a better idea of what square footage they all fall under we’ve broken it down for you below. Just keep in mind folks that if you have some of the exceptions we mentioned above that you will need to increase the BTUs required.

Install

This product is marketed as a do-it-yourself project. While that is great and doing it yourself can save you a bundle when it comes to hiring a professional HVAC technician, you should know exactly what you are getting into before you purchase. Doing it yourself doesn’t mean it’s going to be easy and if you guess your way through it then you not only risk voiding your warranty but you could also end up harming yourself or others when it comes to the electrical work. If you do wish to install the unit yourself then please continue reading on exactly what will need to be done.

First, the good news is that everything is included in the kit including a detailed installation manual. This manual can also be found at the bottom of this article under our ‘Important Link’s section if you wish to view an online copy. It should be noted that this kit does NOT come with exterior mounting brackets and superficial coverings. If you wish to go this route you will have to purchase these extra. The right brackets and coverings though can easily be found on Amazon by clicking here for the brackets and here for the coverings. The coverings are more aesthetic then anything, but they can provide an extra bit of protection to your lines. It is up to you if you want the extra expense or not.MRCOOL DIY Series Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner & Heat Pump1

Now, for the install there are four main sections that will have to be done. The first two are the easiest. When you order this product you will receive an indoor section and an outdoor section. The outside section can either be mounted against your home using support brackets or it can be installed at ground level as long as you create a completely level floor pad. Most folks opt for the floor pad option as it is overall easier to install this way and if you have to do maintenance on the unit down the road you will have much easier access. Creating the floor pad can be done with bricks, cinder blocks, or even your own concrete pad.

The inside unit will need to be mounted up against an exterior wall. Some folks have done interior walls, and while yes it is possible… I would not recommend it. Remember, that once the interior section is mounted you will need to connect the refrigerant pipes and the condensation line to the outside unit. This is why it makes sense to have them on the other side of the wall.

When mounting the interior unit be sure to mount it high up against the wall, close to the ceiling. This is done for two main reasons. The first is that the fan or blower is located at the bottom of the unit. So, the higher the unit is mounted in the room the more easily the air can be distributed. If you have it towards the bottom of the room then all your cold air is blowing up against the floor. The other reason is the condensation line. This is where the water will drain through when excess humidity is removed from your home. This line is gravity fed so if your unit is floor level that water will have nowhere to go.

Alright folks so now we have the easy parts covered. The next point, and a tricky point for a lot of folks, is feeding the refrigerant and condensation lines through your home and connecting them to the exterior section. In order to do this you will need to cut a three and a half inch hole in the wall nearby where you have chosen to mount your interior unit. This is where you will feed the lines. When planning this out you should note that the MRCOOL unit comes with twenty-five feet of refrigerant line. To some this amount of piping is a blessing and to others a cruse. If you only have about ten feet needed then you have to be creative and find a way to ‘hide’ the other fifteen feet.

This unit from MRCOOL comes precharged with refrigerant. What that means is that the system is ready to go and no vacuuming or charging of the system is required. While this is a great pro it can also be a detriment as you have to be extra careful when routing these refrigerant lines through the hole and to the outside unit. Make no mistake, this is the hardest part of the install. You can NOT bend the lines. You can NOT cut or modify the tubing. If any of this occurs and a crack or leak forms in the tubing then all of the refrigerant will leak out and you will have a useless machine. If this does happen then you need to identify the source of the leak, patch it, and then charge your system again with refrigerant. You will most likely need a HVAC professional’s help in this scenario. But, hopefully it doesn’t come to this and you are very careful with the piping.

Once the tubing has been routed through the hole and both sections have been mounted you are now ready to seal the three and a half inch hole we made earlier. A lot of folks used weather proof insulation. I like the spray foam that expands. Either way, you need to seal this hole up to prevent drafts, water, and anything else from getting in there.

Alright folks, the last section of the install is the electrical portion. The twelve-thousand BTU unit requires a one-hundred and ten connection whereas the larger sizes require a two-hundred and twenty volt connection. Please note that regardless of what size of ductless system you choose it will have to be hardwired to your circuit box either through a one-hundred and ten or a two-hundred and twenty volt connection. Now, I’ll be completely honest with you here folks, I do not have much electrical expertise and it would be wrong for me to steer you a certain way for the install. From my research though I have found that you need a fifteen amp breaker for the smaller twelve-thousand unit and a twenty amp breaker for the larger sizes. Now, as to how to install these and connect them I am not knowledgeable enough to guide you. If you are not familiar with how to do this then I would recommend reaching out to an electrician once you have the unit itself setup and ready to go. It is best not to guess with electrical work and if you do it wrong then you risk voiding your warranty… not to mention harming yourself. Electricity is no joke.

Once you have finished the electrical work and everything else is done it is recommended by the manufacturer to run the air conditioner for ten to fifteen minutes and monitor the system for leaks. If the air conditioner passes then run the heater for ten to fifteen minutes as well. Note that the heater may take longer for it to truly start up so it may be best to let it run for a half-hour or so just to ensure everything is working as it should be. For any further questions or concerns when it comes to installation please click here to be taken to the official Mr Cool’s installation instructions. This should answer any questions that you have BEFORE you purchase.

Product Features

Now that we have the sizing and installation sections covered we can begin to look at exactly what these products from MRCOOL have to offer. The first and most important point here is to recognize the various modes that these units come with. Each mode is important and can help you in making your purchasing decision. These units come with an Auto mode, a Cool mode, a Fan mode, and a Dry mode (Dehumidifier). Let’s take a look at these:

  • Cool – This is your air conditioning mode and can cool your home all the way down to sixty-two degrees. Although most folks prefer temperatures between sixty-eight to seventy degrees. This cool mode will work to cool your home even when outside temperatures range from five degrees to one-hundred and twenty-two degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Heat – These units from MRCOOL also come with a full heating mode. What is most exciting about this feature though is that the heater’s BTUs are mostly aligned with the air conditioners BTUs. What I mean by this is that in other air conditioners/heater combos you see the air conditioner has a significantly higher BTU number then the heater. This results in a far less powerful heater and requires you to have supplemental heat in your home along with this heater. But, with these units from MRCOOL the heater is very close the air conditioner BTUs. This heater will also work at maximum capacity with temperatures as low as five degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below five degrees then the heater will work but it will see diminished capacity.
  • Auto – The auto mode is pretty self explanatory. This is similar to most homes with a central system that have an auto mode. All this does is determine if the heater or air conditioner needs to be on. It will actively monitor the temperature in the room and turn one of these on to reach your desired temperature level. This is more of a hands off approach. I’ve never been a fan of auto myself. I like to have ‘heat’ mode in the winter and ‘cool’ mode in the summer, but that’s just my personal preference.
  • Dry Mode – Dry mode is actually just a dehumidifier mode. This allows you to dehumidify your home without cooling your home. I’m not sure how often you would use this as the air conditioner itself is a dehumidifier as well and most of the time if you are trying to dehumidify then you needing to cool as well. This dehumidifier will work between the inside temperature range of fifty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit. Outside temperature range between thirty-two to one-hundred and twenty-two degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Fan – The fan mode is just that. It is a fan without any cooling or heating effects. This is just the blower of the interior running and circulating air. This may be great to have if you have a fire in the fireplace and don’t necessarily want the heater on as well. The fan will help circulate the warm air without kicking that heater on.

Other Features

Along with your other basic modes that we mentioned above there are some other ancillary features that come with these Mr Cool air conditioners. These aren’t huge features but still good to know. The first is what’s known as the auto-restart. Let’s say for example it’s in the middle of summer and a bad storm rolls through the neighborhood and cuts power from your home. When power is restored at your home then your MRCOOL unit will turn back on and at the same settings it was at before. This is one less thing that you have to worry about resetting when your power comes back on.MRCOOL DIY Series Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner & Heat Pump1

Another neat feature is what’s known as ‘louver angle memory.’ What this means is that when your appliance is turned off and then turned back on it will automatically remember the angle of the louvers from when it was last shut off. This is similar to the power loss feature we mentioned above. It ensures consistency when powering on your air conditioner.

This next one will be very important for those of you who elect to install this product yourself. Remember how I said earlier that you had to be very careful with the refrigerant lines and that you were not to bend them? If worse comes to worse and you do get a leak in your system the MRCOOL unit will actually alert you of said leak. If a refrigerant leak is occurring you will get an ‘EC’ error message come up on the inside unit. As to how to find the leak that is a whole other story. I did an article on this topic a few years ago which can be found by clicking here.

This product from MRCOOL comes with a remote and built in WiFi. The WiFi allows you to connect your phone to the appliance through the MRCOOL application. From here you have your own personal remote on your phone that will allow you to adjust temperatures, modes, and any other settings you require. The remote gives you the same functions as the phone app does but is overall easier to operate.

There are two extra features though on the remote though that I want to point out. The first is what is known as the ‘Follow Me’ function. This option will actually have the MRCOOL appliance read the temperature in the room where the remote is. So, if you have the inside unit setup in your living room but the remote is in your kitchen then it will keep running until the desired temperature is reached within the kitchen. This is a handy feature as it will give you a degree of separation between the cold air blowing and the thermostat itself. Otherwise, you will have the thermostat right next to where the cold air is coming out.

The last feature I’ll mention here is what is known as ‘Sleep Mode.’ This sleep mode is only accessible through the remote. When this is turned on the product will slowly adjust the temperature up or down every hour depending on if it’s in cool or heat mode. It will hold these temperature for seven hours and when the time is up it will revert back to it’s previous programmed temperature. This is a great function for you folks who want to save on your energy bills.

Pros

A lot of the pros on this product we have already covered in our product feature section, so there may be some repetition here. The biggest pro on these MRCOOL products are the various modes and the capacity of these modes. What I mean by that is you have a fully functioning air conditioner and a fully functioning heater that can work in temperatures as low as five degrees and up to temperatures of one-hundred and twenty-two degrees. This product has you covered. The only exception I would say is that if  you live in the far north and experience temperatures way below zero routinely throughout the year. Otherwise, this unit can handle whatever you throw at it.

The other big pro here is the warranty on the unit. These products come with a five year parts replacement warranty. Along with this you also get a seven year replacement warranty on the compressor. This keeps you covered in case of any your parts fail. The extra two years on the compressor is great as well as compressors are some of the most commonly failed parts when it comes to air conditioning. This warranty is much better then the competition. If you look at the Pioneer ductless system you will only find a two year parts warranty. Quite the difference if you ask me.

This warranty is NOT voided if you install this unit yourself. Remember folks, this is a do-it-yourself product. The only caveat here is that if you guess you way through the electrical work then you could void the warranty. If you are unsure on how to do the electrical connection then I would hire a professional to ensure you warranty stays in tact. For more on MRCOOL’s warranty click here to be taken to their official warranty page.MRCOOL DIY Series Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner & Heat Pump1

The last pro I want to mention here is the overall volume of the unit. For those of you who have experience with window units you will know just how loud they can get during operation. You will not have this problem with this ductless system. No, these units are extremely quiet. In fact many folks don’t even realize the machine is on. It is that quiet.

Cons

We are now ready for the cons of this ductless system. Before I get into this though I first want to state that overall this is a great product and the cons I mention below are similar to what you find with other ductless systems. The big con here, especially on this MRCOOL system, is the expense. These units are very expensive, especially compared to some of the competing lines like the Pioneer model we mentioned in our pros section. The difference though is that with the MRCOOL brand you are getting a fully functioning heater whereas with the Pioneer you don’t get that same function. You also have less heater operating temperature range with the Pioneer unit. So, while this is more expensive you are getting more product and a higher quality product.

The other big con here is the install. Now this can be said with any ductless system. Do not be fooled, these are not an easy install. You have to mount both units. You have to feed the lines through… and you have to create a three and a half inch hole in your exterior wall. On top of all of that you have to connect it directly to your circuit breaker. Do you feel comfortable with all of that? If so, then this won’t be a big deal at all. But, if you are not then you either may want to hire a professional to help with the install or purchase a window or mobile unit that is much easier to just plug-in and go. The problem with the window/mobile units though is that their capacity is much lower and they are an eyesore.

The last few cons I want to mention are somewhat minor but still deserve to be mentioned. Some folks have stated problems with leaking refrigerant. While this can be a huge problem and will cause your unit not to work… it is most likely caused by poor install. They most likely bent the pipes or did something else to cause a fracture in the pipes which caused the refrigerant to leak out. Just be careful during install and follow the directions carefully. If you do this then you shouldn’t have this problem.

Remember the ‘follow me’ function we mentioned earlier? There were a few reviews that stated this wasn’t working properly. I only saw this a few times during my research, but the complaint was that the follow me function would try to reach the desired temperature through heat and cool in a back and forth fashion. In other words, if the temperature was set to seventy-two then cool would kick on to get it down to seventy-two… but then it accidentally goes down to seventy-one, so then the heater kicks on to get it back to seventy-two and then that accidentally goes to seventy-three. And so on and so on. This didn’t seem to be a prevalent complaint though so I don’t know much stock I would put into this.

The last con here is that some of the ductless systems are what’s known as a multi-zone system. This means that you can have one outdoor unit and multiple indoor units to cool your home in different rooms. These MRCOOL systems are NOT multi-zone. You only have one indoor unit and that is all you can have. If you need more then one then you will have to purchase the entire machine again.

Conclusion

Alright folks so we have gone through sizing, installation, features, pros, cons, and everything else there is to possibly know about this product. Bottom line is that this is a great product and will definitely do its job of cooling your home, garage, loft, workshop, or whatever other area you are looking at this for. But, don’t just take my word for it. If we look at Amazon.com we can see that this MRCOOL product has over two-hundred reviews on it all with an average rating of four and a half stars. That is the equivalent of a ninety percent approval rating. It is a solid product. If you’d like to purchase this unit please click here to be taken to our Amazon partner.

One last point of note here is that we here at RefrigerantHQ are not responsible for the install of this unit. If you purchase this product the installation process will be solely on you or a hired professional. If you are unsure on what to do rather it be through routing the refrigerant lines or doing electrical work then it is always best practice to contact a professional. You know what they say, it is always better to be safe then sorry.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

It is amazing to me just how much damage water can do to your home or place of business. It could be from excess humidity in your room, or from water coming in from your windows, or water leaking into your home from your roof, or even a flood. Whatever the reason was one thing is certain: Having excess water or humidity in your home can cause a whole host of problems.

In the more mild case where the humidity levels are too high in your home or business then you could be looking at the possible build up of allergens throughout your home. You see the optimal humidity for us ranges between forty to sixty percent. Anything below forty percent and you risk dry and cracking skin along with increased rate of infections. Anything higher then that sixty percent threshold then you are looking at growth of dust mites, fungus, and even mold. If a room or home has high humidity that is unchecked for a long period of time you will begin to see mold growing on the floor, walls, and even on clothes or blankets. These allergens can cause havoc on people’s allergies and this is compounded even more if the affected person suffers from asthma as well.

These allergens are the side effects of excess humidity and also excess water. Remember folks, all humidity is just water vapor in the air. You can experience the same type of mold problems if you have a routinely damp area or an area that has standing water. A prime example of this would be a basement that has a crack in the foundation. The crack allows water to get in and this water sits there stagnant on your basement floor. This will significantly increase the humidity of the room and can cause mold growth.

So, not only can unwanted water in your home or business cause allergen growth they can also cause very direct effects to your home such as severe water damage to your furniture, walls, floors, and overall structure of your building. When something catastrophic like this happens you need a way to get rid of the water and get rid of that water fast. This folks is where the Colzer CFT4.0D comes in handy. In this article we are going to take a look at the commercial/industrial dehumidifier CFT4.0D from Colzer. Is it the right fit for you? Or, should you be looking at a different option? Let’s find out!

Sizing

Before we get into the features of this product I first want to discuss sizing your dehumidifier. I mentioned it just a bit ago, but I’ll bring it up again. This Colzer CFT4.0D is an industrial or commercial dehumidifier. In other words, this is meant to be used in larger buildings or in the event of a flood or other water event at the building. Now, there is nothing wrong with using this unit in your home. In fact, if you do use this in your basement or other area you can rest easy knowing that you’ll never have a humidity problem again. But, there is such a thing as overkill… and I don’t want you to spend your money on this unit if you could get away with a smaller sized dehumidifier.Colzer CFT4.0D 232 Pint Commercial Dehumidifier

This unit from Colzer is rated up to eight-thousand square feet. First let’s think about that for a moment. A typical home today is anywhere between fifteen-hundred to twenty-five-hundred square feet. So, this product is rated more triple the square footage of a standard home. Whatever you have in mind for this unit rather it be in your basement, a workshop, a small warehouse, an office, or even an IT server room… this will get the job done.

If you are still on the fence though if this unit is for you then there is one more consideration that needs to be weighed over. That is the overall dampness or wetness of the room or area that you are trying to dehumidify. Let’s say for example you have a very large area of three-thousand square feet that you need to treat. The seventy pint models from Colzer, and from other manufacturers, are rated to treat up to four-thousand square feet. So, it looks like this would work, right?

Well that depends on the room itself. Is there just a musty or damp smell coming from the room? Are there any signs of standing water? If it’s just a smell that you are experiencing then you most likely will be able to use the seventy pint model with success. However, if you have standing water in the room then this room can be considered wet or very wet. Wet rooms require far more power to dehumidify. So, even the seventy pint unit is rated for four-thousand square feet you have to realize that rating is based off of a damp and not a wet room.

If the room is wet then you will need to go up a size to ensure that the job gets done and that it gets done right. Now, I’m not sure if you would need the full two-hundred and thirty-two pint model, but perhaps the one-hundred and forty model would get the job done in the scenario we mentioned above. The ultimate decision if you purchase an industrial dehumidifier or a more standard one is up to you. In the case of the this CFT4.0D model from Terex it can remove up to two-hundred and thirty-two points per twenty-four hour period. That is the equivalent of twenty-nine gallons per day. This is the ‘big dog’ on the marketplace folks.

Product Features

Alright folks so now we can move onto the meat and potatoes of this article, the product features. In this section we will look at the various features and what you can expect if you purchase this product. The first, and obviously most important, is the humidity controls and display. When viewing the machine’s digital display you will see two main numbers. The first is the overall humidity in the room. The second is the current temperature of the room. Both of these will allow you to gauge the room that you are in.

Once you have determined the humidity you want the room to be at you can customize it using the up or down controls. The range of this dehumidifier humidity level is between ten to ninety-eight percent. Now, I don’t know if you know this folks but that ten percent number is very impressive. I’ve been writing articles on dehumidifiers for months now and that is the very first time I have seen a number that low. Just remember that for humans the best humidity level is between forty to sixty percent. The ten percent may be desirable though for certain business or storage requirements.Colzer CFT4.0D 232 Pint Commercial Deh

Something else remarkable about this product is the actual setting of your desired humidity. In most cases when you adjust the percent up or down they move in increments of five. With this product from Colzer you are able to set your desired humidity level by the exact percentage point. So, if you want a humidity of thirty-seven percent then you can set it.

The CFT4.0D will work in rooms with a temperature range of forty-one to ninety-five degrees Fahrenheit. That is between five to thirty-five Celsius for you folks across the pond. There is also what’s known as a ‘smart humidity setting.’ This will allow the dehumidifier to automatically turn off once the desired humidity level has been reached. Then, if the humidity rises in the room, the dehumidifier will kick back on until the desired level is reached again. This prevents the machine from running constantly and it will save you on energy costs.

Now that we’ve got the most important feature out of the way lets take a look at some of the smaller additions to this product. The first is what’s known as the auto-restart feature. If your power goes out due to a thunderstorm then you do not have to worry about resetting your dehumidifier once the power comes back on. Not only will the product turn back on when power is restored but it will actually remember the settings you had on it before the power loss occurred.

There is also a timer function on this dehumidifier. This timer will allow you to set a specific time that you want the unit to start or that you want the unit to turn off. This is great if you only want to run the unit at night or during the day. You can adjust the time by the hour all the way up to twenty-four hours.

Most smaller dehumidifiers come with what is known as a water tank. Water tanks are a reservoir to store the water in that the dehumidifier removes from the room. Once the water tank is full it can be pulled out from the dehumidifier and then emptied into a nearby sink or drain. Since this two-hundred plus pint unit is so large it does NOT have a water tank that comes with it. This is important to note as the only way you will be able to drain the water from this machine is with the drainage hose that comes with the appliance. This hose is just over three feet long and is gravity fed so you will not be able to route the water to upwards. This may be a deciding factor for a lot of folks when purchasing.

Did you know that dehumidifiers are just like air conditioners? In fact they are so alike that the only main difference between the two appliances is that there is a heater that comes with dehumidifiers. This heater warms the air back up after the refrigeration cycle has completed. Besides that, they are exactly the same. The product we are discussing today uses the HFC R-410A refrigerant. That is the same refrigerant that is most likely in your outside air conditioner.

Now, just like air conditioners, dehumidifiers can freeze up. This occurs when ice or frost begins to accumulate on the evaporator coils. If left unchecked this can cause the entire machine to shut down and no longer operate. Luckily, this Colzer appliance comes with what is known as ‘auto defrost.’ The auto defrost will recognize when frost begins to build up. When frost is found the machine will shut itself down and leave only the heater and the blower on. This will melt the frost and ice to prevent future issues. Once the ice has been melted the rest of the machine kicks back on and you are dehumidifying again.

Only a standard one-hundred and ten volt outlet will be required to operate this appliance. That is a good fact to know as most of the time with these larger models you can begin to run into the two-hundred and twenty volt outlets. Having the one-hundred ten on this large of a unit is great as it allows for maximum versatility. You are not limited by specialized outlets.

Transporting the product shouldn’t be too difficult either. While it is heavy at over one-hundred pounds it does come with two eight inch wheels on the back of it. There is also a handle on the top of the machine. Using the handle and the wheels the dehumidifier is almost treated like a dolly. You are able to walk it up or down the stairs without much trouble. When transporting though be sure that the machine is standing upright the entire time. Tipping or flipping dehumidifiers will result in machine failure. The last feature I want to mention is the metal housing. The entire unit is protected by metal to ensure that no damage is done to it during transport or use. This will ensure the longevity of your product.

Pros

As I mentioned earlier, this dehumidifier can work on rooms or spaces of up to eight-thousand square feet. Think about that for a second… that is a ton of square footage. My entire home is only twenty-three hundred square feet. When most people purchase a dehumidifier they are typically trying to remove excess moisture from their basement or a floor within their home. In these cases they can get away with using a seventy pint or even a thirty-five pint model.

This unit from Colzer is two-hundred and thirty-two pints… more then triple the size of the traditional seventy pint. You are getting a ton of power if you purchase this product. I could see this unit being used in a large open office or commercial building. Or, in an area that isn’t quite as large but that is extremely wet. Remember earlier how I had discussed how the dampness/wetness of the room can determine what size of unit you need? Let’s say for example you are trying to dehumidify a three-thousand square foot basement that is extremely wet. There is significant standing water. A seventy pint unit will most likely struggle with this job while a one-hundred and forty will do just fine.

Both the one-hundred and forty and the two-hundred and thirty-two pint options from Colzer are great products, you just need to make sure that a dehumidifier this large is right for you. I’d hate for you to waste your money on buying too much appliance.

The other big selling point here is the warranty on this product. When I visited Colzer’s site on I saw that they offered a two year warranty. Yes, two years. Now I have been reviewing dehumidifiers for the past four months now and I have to say that is one of the best warranties that I have seen on the marketplace. There isn’t much out there that can match it. And, on top of their warranty, Colzer offers a sixty day money back guarantee. So, if something goes wrong during delivery or if the product fails after the first month you can get your money back. I have heard nothing but good talk about their customer service. If you need to get a hold of them you can e-mail them at service@colzer.com

Cons

Overall this is a very high quality product. You are getting a premium dehumidifier if you purchase this unit from Colzer. That being said , with a premium product comes a premium price. This dehumidifier from Colzer is by far the one of the most expensive units I have seen on the marketplace. It is easily double the price of some of the smaller models. As I stated in our sizing section earlier in this article, I would only purchase this product if you are absolutely sure that you need a unit this large. Could the job get done with a seventy pint unit instead? If so, I’d opt for that and save yourself a few hundred dollars. But, if you really do need to dehumidify an area between four to six-thousand square feet then this is your product!

The other con is the so called ‘upside down’ con. Nearly all of the complaints that I read on this dehumidifier were towards the delivery of the product. Remember before how we stated that dehumidifiers are very similar to air conditioners and refrigerators? Well, just like with refrigerators you cannot turn or ship a dehumidifier upside down.

Earlier this year I was helping my father move a refrigerator and we were very careful not to tilt it too far. The reason for this is if the refrigerator or dehumidifier is upside down or tilted too far then the oil can drain out of the compressor. Without proper lubrication your compressor will fail and the compressor is by far one of the most important components of your air conditioner, refrigerator, or dehumidifier. Many folks have reported premature failures of their dehumidifiers… but this is most likely due to them turning on the product right away after it being upside down. If the product did arrive upside down then turn it right side up and then wait for quite a while, maybe even a day. Then, start your dehumidifier up and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It also may be best practice to wait a day or two before turning on your new dehumidifier. The product may come to your home right side up, but who is to know if it was like that earlier that day. Always better to be safe then sorry. The good news here though is that if your dehumidifier does end up not working after a few weeks or months Frigidaire offers a one year warranty. Through my research I had found cases where Colzer offered a complete replacement product. It’s good to know you’ll be protected here.

Conclusion

Alright ladies and gentlemen I believe we have covered nearly everything there is to review on this product from Colzer. We discussed the sizing requirements for dehumidifiers, the various features this unit has, and all of the pros and cons that you can expect. As I had mentioned earlier, this would be a product that I would recommend only IF you need that much power. I do not want you spending more money then you should if you could have saved a bundle and bought a smaller sized unit. The story is pretty much the same on Amazon.com. There are over fifty customer reviews on this product and they all have an average rating of four and a half stars out of five. That is the equivalent of a ninety percent approval rating. That’s pretty damn good if you ask me.

If you’d like to purchase this unit then please click here to be taken to our Amazon partner’s product page. Otherwise, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers. We go into sizing requirements, what features to look for, and many other topics.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links:

The humidity levels in your home are not something that a lot of folks think about often. But, if a humidity problem is left unchecked then a whole host of issues can pop-up. The ideal humidity temperature for us and our families is between forty to sixty percent. If you end up going lower then forty percent humidity then your skin can become dry and cracked. In extreme cases of low humidity your respiratory tract can begin to dry out. This can lead to coughing and can also make you susceptible to more sicknesses such as viral infections like the flu.

On the other side of the coin, if your humidity levels are too high then a whole new list of problems can occur. When humidity levels climb above sixty percent that means that you have excess moisture in your home, basement, or other building. Areas with too much moisture can be prime breeding grounds for a host of allergens such as dust mites, fungus, and even mold. If left unchecked these allergens can begin to take root and spread throughout your home. In mild cases this can lead to typical allergy symptoms such as itchy eyes, congestion, or runny nose. In more extreme cases this can lead to breathing problems for you or those within your home. If you have an asthma sufferer who lives with you then this problem is compounded.

So, how do you know if you room has excess moisture? Well folks there are a couple of signs to look for. The first is a damp or musty smell that you notice while in the room. The best example I know of for this is if you walk into your basement and notice that damp smell hit you. This is a sign of high humidity levels. The good news though is that if it is just the smell that you encounter then the problem is not too bad… yet. Check the windows of the room that you are in. Do you see water droplets forming on the inside of the windows? This is another indicator and this can also signify that your problem is more extreme. In the worst cases, when you look around the room do you see puddles of standing water?

This stagnant standing water can not only mess up the carpet and furniture in your room but it is also a breeding spot for allergens. It has to be taken care of right away before they can get a foothold. This is where a dehumidifier comes in handy. Dehumidifiers do just that, they remove the excess moisture from your room and get you to the targeted humidity level you input. In this article we are going to take an in-depth look at the one-hundred and forty pint dehumidifier PD582A from Colzer. We will look at the various features, the pros, and the cons. Hopefully, by the end of this article you have a pretty firm grasp if this is the right product for you.

Sizing

Now before we get into the details of this product I want to spend some time on the sizing requirements for dehumidifiers. If you feel you already know what size you need then feel free to skip this section. This particular dehumidifier from Colzer comes in the one-hundred and forty pint size. That means it can remove up to one-hundred and forty pints of water from the room it is in over a twenty-four hour period. This size is one of the LARGEST dehumidifiers out there today. It is rated to work in rooms up to six-thousand square feet. Think about that size for a moment folks. Six-thousand square feet is more then twice the size of the average house.Colzer 140 Pint Dehumidifier

In my opinion a lot of folks are not going to need a dehumidifier this large. If it was me and I was looking for a product for my home I would go with either the seventy or the thirty pint models from Colzer. Colzer is a great brand and you still get the same quality you would with this one-hundred and forty pint model. My review on the thirty and seventy pint model can be found by clicking here.

All that being said, there is a consideration that will have to be factored before you buy. How damp or wet is the room you are looking to treat? The answer to this question will help you in deciding what size unit you need. Let’s say for example you have a thirty-three hundred square foot commercial space you are trying to dehumidify. If this area is just a little damp and there is no standing water then you can probably get away with purchasing the seventy pint model. However, if this same room has areas of standing water and can be rated as ‘very wet’ then you may in fact need this one-hundred and forty pint model.

While the seventy pint model is rated up to four-thousand square feet you have to realize that square footage maximum is made with the assumption that you are using it in a damp room and not a wet room. So, while the seventy pint may be rated for four-thousand square feet that is only in best case scenarios. If you have a very wet room then you will need a more powerful unit to resolve the excess humidity.

The last thing I want to mention before I get into the product features section is that running a dehumidifier in affected area is not a miracle worker. If you have excess humidity and water in the area then a dehumidify will remove it… but it will not prevent it. Look at it this way, let’s say you have water pooling in your basement. That water is coming in from a crack at the top of your foundation. Running a dehumidifier will remove the water but it will not fix the source of the problem. The crack is still there and more water will come in. Just be cognizant of that when you purchase… the dehumidifier treats the symptoms, it is not the cure.

Product Features

Ok folks so now we are into the meat and potatoes of this product. In this section we’ll look at every feature there is and then move onto our pros and cons section. The first and most important feature I want to touch on is the humidity settings and controls. You can set your desired humidity level on this machine easily by navigating to the ‘humidity control’ button. From here you can adjust to your desired humidity level by five percent increments. This machine from Colzer has a humidity range between thirty to eighty percent. This product can operate in temperatures ranging from forty-one degrees to ninety-five degrees Fahrenheit. (That’s five to thirty-five degrees Celsius for those of you across the pond.) The current humidity and temperature are digitally displayed on this product’s control panel as well.

Some of the other more miscellaneous features are that this product comes with are two fan speeds. When you first start your unit be sure to turn the fan to the highest setting. This will lower the humidity in your room the fastest. Once your humidity has been lowered you will then be able to lower the fan speed and maintain the current humidity setting. Another option is known as the ‘timer.’ This allows you to program the dehumidifier to turn off or to turn on after a set amount of time has passed. This can be handy when you only want to run the unit at night while you are sleeping or during the day while you are at work. The timer can be adjusted in one hour increments all the way up to twenty-four hours.

In case there is a power loss at your home or office this product comes with an auto-restart feature. So, when your power comes back on your dehumidifier will turn right back on to the same settings it had before the power was cut. That is one less thing you have to reset once your power comes back on. I always hate changing the clocks back…

These next two features are interesting and are not commonly found on other dehumidifiers. The first is the child lock function. If you set this, by holding the button for three seconds, then no other functions can be selected or modified on the machine. This gives you that extra security that if your child does come across the machine they will not change the settings you have chosen. Although, I still wouldn’t let your children near the machine as it will be either full of water or draining water and if they tip it over a mess can occur.COLZER PD582A 140 Pints Commercial Dehumidifier

The next unique feature is known as ‘Dry Clothes’ mode. Yes, you can actually dry your clothes with this dehumidifier. All you need to do is hang up the washed clothes in a small room such as a laundry room or bathroom. Bring the dehumidifier in and set it to a humidity value of thirty percent and change the mode to ‘Dry Clothes.’ Leave the dehumidifier running and then in about six to eight hours your clothes will be dry! I’m not sure how often this will be used here in the United States… this seems more like a European function, but to each their own I guess.

For those of you that do not know, a dehumidifier is actually just a small air conditioner. They work exactly the same as an air conditioner, the only real difference you will notice is that the dehumidifiers come with a built in heater at the end of this process. This heater warms the air that is pushed back into your room. Have you ever noticed that with your central air conditioner there is a hose coming out of it leading to the drain? That is there to drain the water that accumulates from your air conditioning removing humidity. They are very similar machines.

Just like air conditioners, dehumidifiers have a chance of freezing over. Basically, during normal operating process the evaporator coils can begin to accumulate frost or ice. If left unchecked this ice can grow and eventually stop the evaporator from working. The good news is that in the case of this unit from Colzer it comes with an auto-defrost feature. This function will recognize when ice begins to build on the coils and shut down the refrigerant process. It will instead only run the blower and the heater. This will eventually melt the ice and prevent a system freeze up. Once the ice has melted the dehumidifier will start back up normal operating procedures. Also, just for your reference, this dehumidifier uses the common HFC R-410A refrigerant. This is the same refrigerant that is found in modern day central air conditioning systems.

Remember folks, this is a very large dehumidifier and with a large product like this one you will need a large water tank. This PD582A model comes with a seventeen pint water tank. That is the equivalent of eight liters or just over two gallons of water that it can hold at one time. I don’t know if I would let it get that full though as that may be difficult to pull out, carry, and empty into a sink. Two gallons can get heavy! The good news is that if you do forget to empty this water tank that the dehumidifier will shut itself off if the tank is full. This will prevent an overflow of water onto your floor.

If you don’t like having to empty the tank again and again then there is another option you can look into. This is known as the continuous drainage option. If you purchase this unit you will also receive a six and a half foot drain hose attachment. This can be screwed into the water tank. This will then drain the water into a nearby drain or sink. It should be noted though that this is a gravity fed hose… so you can not drain the dehumidifier to a sink that is above it. The drain will have to be lower then the dehumidifier.

The last few features I want to mention is that this unit comes with rollers, or wheels, on the bottom of it to make for easy transport. But, if you have to take the product up and down stairs you won’t have to worry too much as the entire thing only weighs about fifty pounds. Just be sure to empty the tank before moving as a full tank will add a lot of weight when carrying it around.

Pros

The big selling point on this PD582A from Colzer is the overall size and the capacity it can handle. As I mentioned earlier, this dehumidifier can work on rooms or spaces of up to six-thousand square feet. Think about that for a second… that is a ton of square footage. My entire home is only twenty-three hundred square feet. When most people purchase a dehumidifier they are typically trying to remove excess moisture from their basement or a floor within their home. In these cases they can get away with using a seventy pint or even a thirty-five pint model.

This unit from Colzer is one-hundred and forty pints… double the size of the traditional seventy pint. You are getting a ton of power if you purchase this product. I could see this PD582A unit being used in a large open office or commercial building. Or, in an area that isn’t quite as large but that is extremely wet. Remember earlier how I had discussed how the dampness/wetness of the room can determine what size of unit you need? Let’s say for example you are trying to dehumidify a three-thousand square foot basement that is extremely wet. There is significant standing water. A seventy pint unit will most likely struggle with this job while the one-hundred and forty will do just fine.

The same can be said with even larger rooms. Believe it or not, there is an even larger sized dehumidifier out there from Colzer. Yes, the CFT4.0D comes in at two-hundred and thirty-two pints and can work in rooms up to eight-thousand square feet. Both the one-hundred and forty and the two-hundred and thirty-two pint are great products, you just need to make sure that a dehumidifier this large is right for you. I’d hate for you to waste your money on buying too much appliance.

The other big selling point here is the warranty on this product. When I visited Colzer’s site on I saw that they offered a two year warranty. Yes, two years. Now I have been reviewing dehumidifiers for the past four months now and I have to say that is one of the best warranties that I have seen on the marketplace. There isn’t much out there that can match it. And, on top of their warranty, Colzer offers a sixty day money back guarantee. So, if something goes wrong during delivery or if the product fails after the first month you can get your money back. I have heard nothing but good talk about their customer service. If you need to get a hold of them you can e-mail them at service@colzer.com

Cons

Overall this is a very high quality product. You are getting a premium dehumidifier if you purchase this unit from Colzer. That being said , with a premium product comes a premium price. This dehumidifier from Colzer is by far the one of the most expensive units I have seen on the marketplace. It is easily double the price of some of the smaller models. As I stated in our sizing section earlier in this article, I would only purchase this product if you are absolutely sure that you need a unit this large. Could the job get done with a seventy pint unit instead? If so, I’d opt for that and save yourself a few hundred dollars. But, if you really do need to dehumidify an area between four to six-thousand square feet then this is your product!

The other con is the so called ‘upside down’ con. Nearly all of the complaints that I read on this dehumidifier were towards the delivery of the product. Remember before how we stated that dehumidifiers are very similar to air conditioners and refrigerators? Well, just like with refrigerators you cannot turn or ship a dehumidifier upside down.

Earlier this year I was helping my father move a refrigerator and we were very careful not to tilt it too far. The reason for this is if the refrigerator or dehumidifier is upside down or tilted too far then the oil can drain out of the compressor. Without proper lubrication your compressor will fail and the compressor is by far one of the most important components of your air conditioner, refrigerator, or dehumidifier. Many folks have reported premature failures of their dehumidifiers… but this is most likely due to them turning on the product right away after it being upside down. If the product did arrive upside down then turn it right side up and then wait for quite a while, maybe even a day. Then, start your dehumidifier up and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It also may be best practice to wait a day or two before turning on your new dehumidifier. The product may come to your home right side up, but who is to know if it was like that earlier that day. Always better to be safe then sorry. The good news here though is that if your dehumidifier does end up not working after a few weeks or months Frigidaire offers a one year warranty. Through my research I had found cases where Colzer offered a complete replacement product. It’s good to know you’ll be protected here.

Conclusion

Well folks that about covers it for the Colzer PD582A one-hundred and forty point dehumidifier. It is a solid product that will definitely get the job done… you’ve just got to keep in mind the size of this unit and determine if this you need a product this large or if you should stick with a more traditional seventy pint unit. If you do decide to go with this unit you can be assured that you’ll be getting your money’s worth. But hey, don’t just take my word on it. If we look at Amazon.com we can see that there are over thirty reviews that average a rating of four and a half out of five stars. That equates to a ninety percent approval rating. Pretty damn good if you ask me.

If you’d like to purchase this unit then please click here to be taken to our Amazon partner’s product page. Otherwise, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers. We go into sizing requirements, what features to look for, and many other topics.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

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Christmas is next week and then the week after is New Years. That leaves us with less then two weeks until the Environmental Protection Agency’s phaseout of R-22 goes into effect. The phaseout, effective January 1st, 2020, prevents any new manufacturing or importing of R-22 into the United States. The only way to purchase R-22 from then on will be through certified EPA refrigerant reclaimers or through refrigerant distributors who have stock piled R-22 in anticipation of the phaseout.

As you all know, this phaseout has been ten years in the making. It all started back in 2010 with the initial launch. There was a second wave of more restrictions that hit in 2015 and now it all comes to a head in a few weeks. In this article I’m going to review the past on R-22, the present, and the future. Why not… I mean it is around Christmas! I promise though, that the ghost of R-22 future won’t be frightening.

R-22 Past

The news of an impending phaseout even if it is ten years in the future can do a lot of strange things to the product’s price. In the first few years after the staggered phaseout began in 2010 there wasn’t too much of an impact on price, but as the years wore on the price of R-22 began to climb. This was due to the phaseout coming closer but it was mainly due to speculators.

Speculators or investors are folks who are either in the industry, or from outside the industry. Whatever their background is, they saw an opportunity from the R-22 phaseout. In the early stages of the phaseout R-22 was used everywhere in a variety of applications. You could find them in offices, homes, factories, and even ice rinks. It had been one of the most common refrigerants in the world. So, if this ever popular refrigerant is going to be phased out in a couple of years… why not try to grab a piece of that pie? After all, if you can get in while the price is still low and then hold onto your inventory you should be able to make a decent profit once the price climbs.

In the initial stages we saw pricing on R-22 average between two-hundred to three-hundred dollars for a thirty pound cylinder. This price more or less stayed the same from 2010-2015. There were some ups and downs here and there but it typically stabilized once the season was over. It was in 2015 that we really began to see the prices rise. This was due to the new import and manufacturing restrictions that went effect but also due to the speculation. At this point we were only five years away and a lot of folks who were sitting on their hands decided to jump in and get some inventory for themselves.

That price of two-hundred to three-hundred slithered away. Instead we saw the price averaging between three-hundred to four-hundred dollars for a thirty pound cylinder. When the summer of 2015 ended folks were hoping that the price would gradually lower during the off season, but the demand kept up even during the winter months. When 2016 hit we saw the prices rise even higher to an average range of four-hundred to five-hundred dollars.

That wasn’t the worst of it though folks. No, 2017 is when we really began to see the prices on R-22 grow to astronomical proportions. The prices ranged between seven-hundred to eight-hundred dollars a cylinder. These were the prices that all of these prospectors were hoping for. This is where true profit could be made. All those folks who bought up at that three or four-hundred dollar range could now sell for double what they bought it for.

Many companies saw this high price and thought that it could only go higher. One such example, Hudson Technologies, bought up millions of dollars worth of R-22 in anticipation of an even steeper price climb. There was a problem though folks. Just like with any market, if the price of the genuine product is too high then alternatives will be developed. The R-22 market was no different. Homeowners and business owners did not want to pay this extraordinary high price just to recharge their systems.R-22 Pricing Chart

While the speculators were buying up R-22 and hoping for the increase there was another group of business folks working to provide cheaper alternatives to R-22. As I am writing this article there are now over one-hundred R-22 alternatives out there. All of them have their own pros and cons. Some of them require a full retrofit of the system and others barely require any changes. The main goal of all of these alternatives though was to be cheaper then the standard R-22.  With the high R-22 prices in 2017 alternatives flourished.

“As the inventory of R-22 diminishes in the future, it is logical to expect that prices will increase.  Fortunately, R-22 retrofit products, such as MO99 and NU22B, have been working very well in existing equipment for more than 10 years.” – Chuck Allgood Refrigerants Technology Leader at The Chemours Company

Pairing the huge amount of stock speculators were sitting on with the mass of alternatives available the price began to trend downwards. It started towards the end of 2017. Many folks thought that the off season would cause prices to drop but that it would rebound right back up when 2018’s spring started. Boy were they wrong. The 2018 year saw an average price range between four-hundred and five-hundred dollars. The price kept on crashing. There was so much stock on hand and now that the price was going down people panicked and started selling all of their inventory to unload their burden. This caused the pricing to go even lower. For a real life example of this look up the stock prices of Hudson Technologies over the past five years. You can definitely see when R-22 hit it’s peak in 2017 and when the market crashed shortly there after.

In 2019 we saw a price range of two-hundred to three-hundred dollars. This was back to 2014 levels! You can really see this illustration in the chart that I’ve attached for this section. It definitely paints a picture of just how fast the prices rose and how fast they fell. I also did my best here to give you a prediction of what we will see in the coming years on R-22 pricing. The 2020, 2021, and 2022 numbers are predictions though, so take them with a grain of salt.

R-22 Present

Alright folks, so now that the past is in the past let’s take a look at what the R-22 market looks like today. This section won’t be as near as big as the others but it’s worth looking into to understand exactly where we are at today. The first thing I want to mention is the current market price. I had touched on this earlier, but today if you were to purchase R-22 you can expect to pay between two-hundred to three-hundred dollars a cylinder. It all depends on who you buy from. During my research this week I’ve seen prices ranging as low as two-hundred and twenty-five dollars a cylinder upwards to two-hundred and ninety-five dollars a cylinder. A typical HVAC contractor can expect to pay right around that three-hundred dollar mark, but don’t be surprised if some are paying around three-hundred and fifty dollars.

The other point to make here is that overall demand for R-22 is down compared to previous years. This is mainly due to the aging of the machines that are out there. Since no new machines could be manufactured at or after 2010 the age of an R-22 machine is at least ten years old. In some cases manufacturers saw this phase out coming and stopped using R-22 before 2010. So, your R-22 unit could even be twelve years or older. The point here is that these machines are starting to die. A typical traditional split system will last anywhere between fifteen to twenty years. We are already quickly approaching the lifespan of these R-22 units… so as to be expected, the demand is down.

Since this is a losing battle and the demand is going to be shrinking with each passing year we are already seeing major companies remove themselves from the R-22 market. A major manufacturer of refrigerants, which I won’t name here, has already removed themselves from the R-22 market. It’s not just them though folks, in the past six months multiple wholesalers have removed themselves from selling R-22. The demand isn’t there and it just isn’t worth their time to stock the product.

So, in just a few weeks we have a product that is phased out across the United States. (You can still purchase it as long as you can find a distributor or a reclaimer.) You also have the demand for this product shrinking and shrinking with each passing year. This R-22 product also has reclaimed cylinders available as well as over a hundred different alternatives. The question now though, is what does the future hold for R-22?

R-22 Future

For this section I reached out to over a dozen contacts that I have within the refrigerant industry. These folks range from manufacturers, distributors, contractors, content writers, and consulting firms. My aim here was to not only provide my insight but also to get the view and opinions from a host of others so that I can provide you all with a well rounded look at the future of R-22.

First thing is first, there are a lot of folks who believe that R-22 will NOT be available after January 1st, 2020. That is not true. You will still be able to purchase R-22 as long as you are certified with the EPA and are able to find a distributor with quantity on hand. The same rule applies for reclaimed R-22 refrigerant. It is perfectly legal to buy as long as you are certified. The struggle you may face is finding a wholesaler that will provide the product. If you’re not having any luck feel free to reach out to me and I can put you in touch with a few folks.

The number one thing we need to remember when it comes to looking at R-22 is that these machines are only going to be around for another five to ten years. Yes, there will be some outliers, but for the most part these machines will all be retired in that time. Dead and gone. It will go the way of R-12 is today… except I can’t imagine anyone restoring a ‘classic R-22 system’ they way do with R-12 automobiles.

So, with that five to ten year deadline in mind, what can we expect over the next few years? Please note that this is  a prediction on my part folks, so don’t take my word as gospel. That being said, I believe that this is all going to boil down to supply and demand. And at this point of time folks there is plenty of supply of R-22. In fact there are stockpiles of it. One refrigerant manufacturer, not the one I mentioned earlier, has a large surplus of R-22 on hand and waiting to be shipped. While other manufacturers have backed out of the market these guys have bought up in hopes of being the only major source to purchase from.

It’s not just the virgin product that we have to consider though folks. There is plenty of reclaimed refrigerant out there as well. In fact, we are seeing the same type of logic on reclaimed product that we did with virgin. A lot of folks are buying up this reclaimed product so that they can stockpile it before the phaseout hits. One of my contacts put it this way:

“The bigger refrigerant recovery companies are overpaying for reclaim gas in order to have a nice stock for next year and beyond.” – Eric Sugarman Owner at Refrigerant Depot.

So, with that statement above in mind we can truly see the R-22 market beginning to consolidate. We have one of the major refrigerant manufacturers stockpiling the product and then we have the larger recovery companies stockpiling their own source of reclaimed R-22. What all this means is that the amount of companies that will be available to purchase R-22 from is shrinking and shrinking. This will eventually result in a price increase due to the lack of options.

The good news here though is that the refrigerant manufacturer that has this stockpile has publicly claimed that they do not want R-22’s price to go over three-hundred dollars a cylinder. While this sounds nice and all, there is a strategy behind it. You see if R-22 gets to around four-hundred dollars or higher then that opens the doors for alternative products to come in and take the business. Keeping prices at three-hundred dollars prevents the alternative refrigerants from gaining a foothold on the market.

The consensus that I received from my contacts was that there is enough virgin R-22 and reclaimed R-22 product out there to keep demand fulfilled for the next several years. The price may rise slightly, like I indicated in my pricing graph earlier, I do not foresee a drastic increase. No, instead it will be a slow crawl upwards.

Conclusion

This article will by no means my last article on R-22. I know there will be more news down the road and always more surprises. No one knows for sure what is going to happen next year or the year after. It is all a guessing game. Hopefully though, this article was able to give you a bit more knowledge so that when you make your guess on the market you’ve got some logic in your corner. If you would like more thoughts or notations on R-22 please feel free to reach out to me for consulting and we can discuss rates.

Thanks for reading and I hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

I bought my first home towards the end of summer in 2009. It wasn’t anything special… in fact it was a foreclosure that needed a lot of work. But hey, it was mine and that is what mattered. There was so much that needed to be done right away ranging from electrical work to installing the kitchen sink. Between all of these projects there was one thing that I noticed when walking through my basement. There was a damp, somewhat mildewy smell all throughout the basement. Well, let me back up… I didn’t notice it, my wife did. She didn’t like it.

At the time I was still young and didn’t know much about home ownership. I did some research online and found that my basement most likely had high humidity levels. You see the perfect humidity range for our homes is somewhere between forty to sixty percent. If you go lower then forty percent then you risk suffering from dry and cracking skin. In some extreme cases you can actually have your respiratory tract dry out which can lead to infections and severe colds.

The inverse of this is if your humidity is above that sixty percent mark. This is where that mildewy damp smell I mentioned earlier comes into play. You see when humidity levels rise above sixty percent your basement can become susceptible to damp smells, beading water on the windows, and in extreme cases standing water. This extra moisture in the room is prime breeding ground for a host of allergens. Some of these can include dust mites, fungus, and mold. These allergens can wreak havoc on a normal persons allergies… but imagine the damage they could do to someone who suffers from asthma or who has difficulty breathing.

If you notice a damp or must smell in your basement, or if you notice water accumulating then it is time to get a dehumidifier. A dehumidifier does just what it sounds like, it removes the excess moisture from your room and will strive to achieve the target humidity level that you set. There are dozens of dehumidifiers out there today and the amount of choices can be a bit overwhelming. In this article we are going to take an in-depth look at the Colzer thirty pint and the Colzer seventy pint models. We will review their various features, the pros, the cons, and everything else.Colzer 30 & 70 Pint Portable Dehumidifier

Sizing

Now before we get into the features of these dehumidifiers from Colzer let us first understand the sizing requirements when it comes to dehumidifiers. There are a few considerations that you need to factor in when purchasing these appliances. The first is the overall square footage of the room or area that you are trying to dehumidify.  This can be found by simply measuring the overall length and width of the room and multiplying the numbers together. The combined number is your square footage. In the case of these Colzer units the thirty pint is rated up to fifteen-hundred square feet and the seventy pint unit is rated up to four-thousand square feet.

While these square footage numbers seem impressive there is another factor that you have to consider, that is the overall dampness/wetness of the room. Yes, how damp or wet the room is will immensely affect how well your dehumidifier works and what size of unit that you need. Let’s say for example you are trying to dehumidify a room that is twelve-hundred square feet. Now, you could go with the thirty pint… but only if the room is just damp or musty. If you have standing water or even water beading on the windows then I am going to recommend the larger seventy pint unit.

The only downside of going  up a size with dehumidifiers is the price. The larger sized units obviously cost more, but you get more power. What that means is that you will remove the moisture from the room at a quicker pace and that you can handle larger rooms without an issue. If you are unsure exactly what size unit to purchase then I’m going to steer you towards the seventy pint.

Product Features

Alright so now that we’ve got the sizing requirements out of the way let’s take a look at the main reason you’re reading this article! The product features. The first, and most important, feature of these units are the dehumidifier settings. When you turn the machine on you will be greeted with the actual humidity percentage in the room. (Within a five percentage range.) You can then set a target humidity percentage by using the controls. The range on these units is between thirty and eighty percent. Remember though, the best range for our homes is between forty to sixty. Most folks end up doing high forty’s or low fifty’s.

These dehumidifiers will operate within temperatures ranging from forty-one to ninety-five degrees Fahrenheit. That’s five to thirty-five degrees Celsius for you non-Americans out there. Something unique about these units is that they come with two different modes. The first is your standard dehumidifier, but the other mode is unique. That is your laundry dry mode. Yes folks, you can actually hang wet laundry near your dehumidifier and then turn on the laundry dry mode to hang dry your clothes. Now, I’m not really sure how many people would use this feature… but it is there if you want it!

These Colzer products come with a few other adjustable features. The first is the fan speed.  There are two settings here a standard and high. The higher the fan speed the faster your room will see its humidity drop. I typically recommend running the fan at a higher speed to start but as your room’s humidity drops you can lower the fan speed as well. Along with the fan there is a twenty-four hour sleep timer. This timer allows you to program a time for your dehumidifier to turn off or on. This timer can be set in one hour increments all the way up to twenty-four hours. This can be useful if you want to run your unit at night and have it turn off during the day, or if you’d like to run it while you are at work during the day.

If your power ends up going out due to a spring or summer storm then your dehumidifier is one less thing you have to worry about restarting once your power comes back on. These products come with an automated restart once power has been restored. This restart will get the dehumidifier right back to where you had it set previously.

These appliances also come with what’s known as an auto-defrost feature. For those of you who aren’t aware of what this is let me elaborate. First, you should understand that dehumidifiers are in fact just like air conditioners. They both use refrigerant and go through a cooling cycle. The only key difference is that a dehumidifier has a heater at the end of the cycle that warms the air back up to your room temperature. Just like with air conditioners, the coils on your dehumidifier can eventually accumulate frost or ice. If enough ice is accumulated the unit will not work properly. The auto-defrost feature will sense this and turn off the dehumidifier process but leave on the heater and the fan. So, you get warm air blowing over the coils which will in turn melt the ice and frost. Your problem is then fixed without you having to do a thing.

Remember folks, that your appliance is removing water from the room. It needs a place to store that water. In the case of these dehumidifiers from Colzer they are stored in a 1.2 gallon, or 4.5 liter, water tank. When the tank is full the product will shut-off and alert you of the full tank via an indicator on the control panel. The auto shut-off is very helpful as you do not have to worry about the unit continuously running and overflowing water around the unit. To empty the tank simply pull it out and dump it in a nearby sink or drain. If you are not a fan of emptying the tank again and again then you can use the continuous drain option. When purchasing the unit you will also receive a water pipe that is just over three feet. This can be attached to your water tank and it can then feed the water to a nearby drain or sink. Note that this pipe is gravity fed and the water cannot flow up. The drain or sink will have to be lower then the dehumidifier.

The filter on these products need to be cleaned once a month. Cleaning it is relatively easy though. All you have to do is pull the filter out and then either wash it with warm water or use a vacuum hose attachment. If you use water please ensure that the filter is dry before you put it back into the dehumidifier. Also, make sure that you have the unit completely turned off and unplugged before removing the filter.

The last few features I’ll mention before our Pro section is that these units come with a standard 110 volt plug-in. They are also very easy to transport as they have four wheels at the base of the unit and the largest model only comes in at about thirty pounds.

Pros

I have a habit of doing this when I write product reviews. I tell myself every time that I won’t do it this time and lo-and-behold I did it again. What I am talking about here is that I detail everything that I can in our ‘Product Features’ section and then end up leaving very little for the Pros section. A lot of the points that I make in the ‘Product Features’ can easily be seen as pros as well.Colzer 30 & 70 Pint Portable Dehumidifier Control Panel

That being said, I do have a few other points that I can fit into our pros section. The first is the overall operating volume of these units from Colzer. Most dehumidifiers operate in a range between fifty to sixty decibels. That is about the equivalent of a normal conversation. These products from Colzer come in between forty to forty-five decibels. That is about the volume of a hushed conversation in a library. To some that is a big difference, but to others they won’t even notice. To each their own I guess.

The big selling point here is the warranty on these products. When I visited Colzer’s site on these products I saw that they offered a two year warranty. Yes, two years. Now I have been reviewing dehumidifiers for the past four months now and I have to say that is one of the best warranties that I have seen on the marketplace. There isn’t much out there that can match it. And, on top of their warranty, Colzer offers a sixty day money back guarantee. So, if something goes wrong during delivery or if the product fails after the first month you can get your money back. I have heard nothing but good talk about their customer service. If you need to get a hold of them you can e-mail them at service@colzer.com .

Cons

This is a pretty solid product so I won’t have too much to say here in the cons section. That being said, there are two main cons that I want to mention. The first is that the seventy pint mentions that it is rated for four-thousand square feet. I am very skeptical of this number. Most seventy pint units claim about two-thousand square feet capacity. The four-thousand square foot number we see on this one is most likely in the most optimal of situations. In other words, the room they are trying to dehumidify is most likely already near the sixty percent target and there is not standing water in the area. The more water and humidity you add to an environment the more power that is needed to remove it… so that means the square footage capacity will shrink the wetter the room is.

The other con is the so called ‘upside down’ con. Nearly all of the complaints that I read on this dehumidifier were towards the delivery of the product. Remember before how we stated that dehumidifiers are very similar to air conditioners and refrigerators? Well, just like with refrigerators you cannot turn or ship a dehumidifier upside down.

Earlier this year I was helping my father move a refrigerator and we were very careful not to tilt it too far. The reason for this is if the refrigerator or dehumidifier is upside down or tilted too far then the oil can drain out of the compressor. Without proper lubrication your compressor will fail and the compressor is by far one of the most important components of your air conditioner, refrigerator, or dehumidifier. Many folks have reported premature failures of their dehumidifiers… but this is most likely due to them turning on the product right away after it being upside down. If the product did arrive upside down then turn it right side up and then wait for quite a while, maybe even a day. Then, start your dehumidifier up and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It also may be best practice to wait a day or two before turning on your new dehumidifier. The product may come to your home right side up, but who is to know if it was like that earlier that day. Always better to be safe then sorry. The good news here though is that if your dehumidifier does end up not working after a few weeks or months Frigidaire offers a one year warranty. Through my research I had found cases where Colzer offered a complete replacement product. It’s good to know you’ll be protected here.

Conclusion

Well folks I think we have about covered everything there is to cover on these dehumidifiers from Colzer. We’ve gone through the product features, pros, cons, and even a bit more. Overall, I would say that it is a great product and I really like the two year warranty. You just don’t see that on competing units. But, if you don’t want to take my word for it then you can look at our Amazon partner’s product page. There are over two-hundred and fifty reviews on these units and they all have an average of four and a half out of five stars. That equates to a ninety percent approval rating. That’s pretty damn good if you ask me.

If you’d like to purchase this unit then please click here to be taken to our Amazon partner’s product page. Otherwise, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers. We go into sizing requirements, what features to look for, and many other topics.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

Ivation 30, 50, & 70 Pint Energy Star Dehumidifier

Back in 2009 I bought my first house. It was rather modest but it was in a nice neighborhood. My wife and I got a hell of a deal on it as it was a foreclosure and there was quite a bit of work that needed to be done. After we bought it and had moved in we started fixing things around the house. In the beginning it was smaller stuff but as we learned we were able to do some larger projects. One of the first things I noticed though was that when I was in our basement there was a damp almost musty smell. It was rather unpleasant, but there wasn’t any standing water or signs of water damage anywhere.

After some research online I understood that the humidity levels in my basement were too high. You see the best humidity range for our homes is between forty to sixty percent. If you go lower then forty percent then you will begin to notice drying or cracking of the skin. In some cases low humidity can cause your respiratory tract to dry out which will lead to infections and other sicknesses.

The inverse of all that is when your humidity is too high. In these cases if your room or basement has a humidity level above sixty percent then that damp or musty smell may be the least of your problems. You see that bad smell in your basement is one of the first warning signs. If the problem is left unchecked then you may begin to see water beading on the inside of your windows, on your walls, or even on your floors. In some cases you may see standing water in your basement or affected rooms. All of this moisture can lead to a host of other problems. If this is left untreated then your basement or home will become a perfect place for allergens to start growing. These could be dust mites, fungus, and even mold.  Mold can be bad for your health if you are a perfectly healthy, but imagine what it can do to someone who has respiratory problems or who are allergic to it.

The solution to these excess humidity problems is adding a dehumidifier to your basement, room , or home. A dehumidifier will do just what it’s described. It removes the excess moisture from your room. This will get your area back to that perfect range of between forty to sixty percent. The question though is what dehumidifier should you purchase?

There are dozens, if not hundreds, of options out there. It can be daunting to look at them all. In this article we are going to take an in-depth look at the three dehumidifier models manufactured by Ivation. We’ll dive into the various sizes, the product features, the pros, and the cons. By the time we’re done you’ll know everything there is to know about this product… and maybe a bit more then you should!Ivation 30, 50, & 70 Pint Energy Star Dehumidifier

Sizing

The first thing that we need to do before purchasing a dehumidifier is determining exactly what size of product that you need. Now there are two considerations when it comes to the size of your dehumidifier. The first is the overall square footage of the room. Square footage is easily measured by taking the length and width of the room and multiplying the numbers together. I’ll warn you right now though that many manufacturers, including this one, state that their dehumidifier can work in rooms up to XX square feet. While this may be true, there is another consideration that has to be reviewed before this square footage promise can come to fruition. (Personally, I always cut the manufacturer’s square footage claims by half, just to be safe.)

The other consideration is the overall dampness or wetness of the room. You see the more damp the room is the more power that you are going to need from your dehumidifier. So, let’s say you are trying to dehumidify a twelve-hundred square foot room. If the room just has a musty smell but has no signs of water, mold, or any other dampness indicators then we can call this room damp. You may get away with the smallest size, the thirty pint model.

However, if you notice water beading on the windows, walls, or even some standing water in that same room then you are going to need a larger sized dehumidifier. Luckily, these models from Ivation come in three different sizes: thirty pint, fifty pint, and seventy pint. Now, I like to tell people to get the fifty or the seventy. Yes, the thirty will work in the damp scenario we gave earlier but with the fifty unit your room will dehumidify quicker and if the room is damper then you thought then there isn’t a problem.

  • IVALDH30PW – This is the thirty pint model. In other words, it can remove up to thirty pints of water within a twenty-four hour period. This is the smallest size and while it will work for a moderately damp area you will get better results if you move to the fifty pint. (If your area is a thousand square feet or under you can get away with the thirty pint without an issue.) This unit also works great for a small room or bathroom that you are looking to dehumidify.
  • IVALDH50PW – This is the fifty pint model. In most cases this is going to cover your needs. Even if you have some moisture beading on your walls. This will dehumidify up to fifteen-hundred square feet as long as you don’t have actual standing water in your home. Again, this is great for your basement or large open area within your home or office.
  • IVALDH70PB – This is the seventy pint model. This is the biggest size of this model range and will be more then big enough to handle a two-thousand square feet area with standing water. Most folks recommend going a size larger then what you need when it comes to dehumidifiers. Your machine won’t work as hard and will last longer.

Product Features

Alright folks now that we’ve covered the sizing requirements we can begin to get into the details and features of this dehumidifier. To start off I think it makes sense to look at what this unit can do as far as dehumidifying your home. As we mentioned above, there are three sizes. The thirty pint model will remove thirty pints of water from your home within a twenty-four hour period. The same logic can be applied to the fifty and to the seventy pint.

When you turn the machine on you will see the current humidity in the room. You are then able to adjust the humidity up or down to your desired level. Remember that somewhere between forty to sixty percent is ideal. The dehumidifier adjust by five percent increments, so if you’re at sixty and lower it once you’ll be at fifty-five. This is all displayed on the digital display on the control panel of the unit. These three products have a range between thirty to ninety percent humidity and will work in temperatures ranging from forty-one to eighty-nine degrees Fahrenheit.

Along with the basic concept of dehumidifying these products also come with a few other features. The first is what’s known as an auto-restart. If you lose power during a rain storm or other event then your dehumidifier will instantly turn back on and at the settings it was at before the power loss. This is a handy feature if you’re away from home for a period of time or even if you forget to turn the unit back on.

There are also two speeds on the fan. There is your regular mode and then a turbo mode. The faster the speed of the fan the faster moisture will be removed from your room. It may be a good idea to start your unit in the turbo mode. This will help you get to your desired humidity faster. Then, once you’ve reached your desired level you can set the speed back to normal. Along with the fan settings there is also a timer setting. The timer will allow you to program the appliance to stop or start after a certain amount of time has passed. You could set it for an hour or all the way up to it’s maximum setting of twenty-four hours. This is a great tool as it lets you set it and forget it.Ivation 30, 50, & 70 Pint Energy Star Dehumidifier Control Panel

All dehumidifiers come with a water tank. After all, that water you are removing from your room has to go somewhere…right? In the case of these units from Ivation the tank can hold 1.6 gallons. Once capacity is reached you will need to remove the tank and empty the water in a sink or bathtub. To make things a bit easier for you Ivation added a water level window so that you can easily monitor the water in the tank and empty it once it fills up. Continuing with the water tank, there is an auto shut-off on these dehumidifiers if the water tank becomes full. This will prevent water from overflowing from your tank and spilling out onto your floor. When the auto shut-off occurs there will be an indicator on the control panel informing you that the tank needs emptied.

Emptying the water tank is relatively easy. The tank slides out from the bottom and has a handle attached to it for easy back and forth carrying. However, if you are not a fan of having to empty the tank every time it fills up then there is an alternative option available. These dehumidifiers come with an opening for continuous drainage. This means that you can connect a hose and route that house to a nearby floor drain. Now all the water that would go in your tank goes down the hose and into the drain. It should be noted that this drain is gravity fed. In other words, the drain you are feeding the water into will HAVE to be lower then the dehumidifier itself. It will not work correctly if you try to route the hose to a sink that is above the dehumidifier.

For those of you that do not know, a dehumidifier is basically just a mini air conditioner. You see dehumidifiers operate the same way that an air conditioner does. They use refrigerant and they go through cycles of liquid and gas. In the case of these products from Ivation they all use the popular HFC refrigerant known as R-410A. This is the same type of refrigerant that you will find on newer home split systems. The only difference between a dehumidifier and an air conditioner is that with the dehumidifiers there is an extra feature. This extra feature is a heater that warms the air backup to room temperature.

Just like with air conditioners there is a risk of your dehumidifier’s evaporator coils accumulating frost and ice. If this happens then your unit will freeze up and it will no longer be able to operate. The good news is that these products from Ivation have an auto-defrost feature. This defrost feature recognizes when ice has begun to build up and then resolves the problem. If ice is found the unit will shut-off except for the heater and the fan. The warmth of the heater and the fan will melt the ice on your evaporator. Once the ice has been melted the dehumidifier will start up again just like new.

The filter on these dehumidifiers is quite easy to remove and maintain. First make sure the unit is shut-off and not plugged in. Then all you need to do is remove the water tank and then, above the water tank, you will see the filter. Slide it out easily. Once you have it in your hands it can be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner or with water. If you decide to use water please ensure that the filter is dry before reinserting it into your dehumidifier.

Ok folks, last couple points before we move onto the Pros section. The first is that all three of these models comes with a standard one-hundred and ten volt plug-in. The cord reaches up to six feet so it gives you a bit of leeway to position the unit. Lastly, moving these products is fairly easy as well as they come with handles and wheels. The largest sized unit, the seventy pint, only comes in at around forty pounds. So, this shouldn’t be too difficult to move around your home.

Pros

I have a bad habit of doing this folks. I go through and write everything that I absolutely can for the Product Features section. You see, I want to be thorough. I want to ensure you understand everything that you’re getting into. Because of this I kind of shoot myself in the foot when it comes to the Pros section. A lot of the features that we mentioned earlier can also be considered Pros. Take for the example the auto-defrost or the auto-restart during a power failure. Both are Pros to look at when you consider buying. That being said, there are a few other Pros that I haven’t mentioned yet. Let’s take a quick look.

All three of these products are Energy Star certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. What that means is that you will save money versus other competing dehumidifiers. The Energy Star program is designed to evaluate various appliances and determine if they meet the EPA’s efficiency standards. An Energy Star appliances is on average about fifteen percent more efficient then a competing machine. So you will save on your power bill each month if you purchase this unit over a dehumidifier that is not Energy Start certified.

Along with the Energy Star rating you also get a one year full warranty from the Ivation manufacturer. Having a warranty is always good and protects you from any defects right out of the box. I will say that a one year warranty is pretty standard and is mostly what you will find on competing models as well. Ivation’s customer service can be contacted by phone at 1-866-849-3049 or through e-mail at info@myivation.com.

Cons

Every product, no matter who makes it, will have drawbacks. That’s just how it is. That being said, it was difficult to find specific cons on these products. Instead, nearly all of the complaints that I read through were towards the delivery of the product. Remember before how we stated that dehumidifiers are very similar to air conditioners and refrigerators? Well, just like with refrigerators you cannot turn or ship a dehumidifier upside down.

Earlier this year I was helping my father move a refrigerator and we were very careful not to tilt it too far. The reason for this is if the refrigerator or dehumidifier is upside down or tilted too far then the oil can drain out of the compressor. Without proper lubrication your compressor will fail and the compressor is by far one of the most important components of your air conditioner, refrigerator, or dehumidifier. Many folks have reported premature failures of their dehumidifiers… but this is most likely due to them turning on the product right away after it being upside down. If the product did arrive upside down then turn it right side up and then wait for quite a while, maybe even a day. Then, start your dehumidifier up and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It also may be best practice to wait a day or two before turning on your new dehumidifier. The product may come to your home right side up, but who is to know if it was like that earlier that day. Always better to be safe then sorry. The good news here though is that if your dehumidifier does end up not working after a few weeks or months Frigidaire offers a one year warranty. Through my research I had found cases where Frigidaire offered a complete replacement product. It’s good to know you’ll be protected here.

Cleaning

One of the main objectives of a dehumidifier is to lessen the possibility of mold growing within your home. But, what happens if the very thing that is supposed to be preventing the mold starts to grow mold itself? Well, this problem has happened to a lot of folks. Some may argue that this is a manufacturing defect and others would say that the consumers who had this problem didn’t take care of their dehumidifier in the first place.

A dehumidifier needs to be cleaned regularly. That means checking and cleaning the filter. Again, I couldn’t find this information to be one-hundred percent sure, but most of these dehumidifier filters come with what’s known as an anti-bacterial mesh. This mesh aims at preventing bacteria. If you attempt to clean the filter with water then you risk washing away this protective coating. Instead you should either try to shake it out or use a low powered vacuum with a hose attachment. This will clean the filter and still protect your coating. It’s not just the filter though that needs to be cleaned. Ensure that the machine itself is as clean as can be and if you began to suspect mold growing within it then take it apart and try to identify the culprit area. When dealing with water day in and day out there is always a chance that some could spill and get isolated within the machine only to stay there and become stagnant. This is a prime candidate for mold growth. This is why you need to stay vigilant and ensure the unit is as clean as it can be.

Conclusion

Alrighty folks I think we have practically covered everything there is on these dehumidifier models from Ivation. We have gone over all of the features, pros, and cons. If you are thirsty for more information though you can view each of these model’s instruction booklets as well as their specification sheet in our next section titled, ‘Important Links.’

If you are thinking about buying this unit I can assure you that it is a good product. But, if you are unsure we can also take a look at our Amazon partner. These products have over two-hundred reviews on Amazon and all have an average rating of four and a half stars out of five. That is a ninety percent approval rating, or an A grade if you are in college. If you’d like to purchase this product please click here to be taken to our Amazon partner.

However, If you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers. We go into sizing requirements, what features to look for, and many other topics.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

It had always been my dream to have some land to play around on. A few years back I purchased twenty acres with an older home on it. This older home did not have a basement but instead had a crawl space. At the time of purchasing I didn’t know the first thing about crawl spaces. I had only grown up in homes with basements and I knew nothing of what to look for, how to take care of it, and how to prevent issues. Looking back at the past couple years I know I could have done things so much better. I ended up paying some hefty repair bills and I’m sharing this story with you so that you hopefully don’t make the same mistakes that I did.

The house that we had bought was older and a lot of the necessary maintenance work just hadn’t been done over the years. Overall, we didn’t have too many problems with the house but there was a reoccurring pain my side and that was the crawl space. Crawl spaces are quite a bit different then basements, which I was about to learn. Looking back at it now I should have paid more attention to the crawl space and the moisture that it was attracting. Instead, I opened the vent and forgot about it for a year.

It was about a year later that I was walking down my hallway that led out to our back porch. As I was walking I noticed something strange in a specific spot. I stepped on it and felt the sensation of the floor sinking. It felt similar to a sponge or when you would step onto a trampoline. Your foot would sink slightly. It was only in this specific spot so, like an idiot, I ignored it and carried on with life. It was about a month later that this spot had expanded its way down the hallway and another spot had formed on the other side of the hall in the master bathroom. At this point I knew things were bad and I called a contractor out to the house to figure out what the hell was going on.

Larry, our contractor, came out about a few days later and started poking around. It only took him about ten minutes to figure out what the problem was. You see my crawl space had water problems. If you walked around down there, which I avoided as much as I could because it sucked, you would find standing water. Where you didn’t find standing water your feet would sink into the mud as you walked. There was no poly liner on the floor or on the foundation walls. There wasn’t even a dehumidifier. The sinking feeling that I had in my floor was the rotting of the floor board plywood due to the excess humidity and moisture in my crawl space. The crawl space was rotting my home from the inside out. Not good.

Larry handed me his quote for the repairs and I was taken aback. It was going to cost be about seven-thousand dollars to get this repaired. All of the flooring in the back hallway and the master bathroom had to be ripped up. The plywood floorboards underneath all had to be replaced. It was a disaster. Once he got going on the repair I set some time aside to start correcting my crawl space. The first thing I did was seal it up tight. I forget who told me this, but someone had told me that when buying a home with a crawl space it is best to let air out and have multiple vents open throughout the year. Well, after further research I found that was a mistake. So, I sealed up all the vents.

Next I bought some crawl space liner and covered the floor and the walls. By sealing the floor with liner you prevent the water from the soil seeping into your crawl space. The same can be said on your foundation walls if you have cracks or ways for water to get in. The water won’t be getting through that liner if you do it right. So, the last thing I did was have a new dehumidifier installed. I lived in this house for another year and within that year I saw no further problems. The floor that was replaced was holding up just fine… and was much nicer then the rest of the home’s floor! The occasional times I went down to the crawlspace I saw no indication of water pooling or mold growing. The mud was gone as well. All seemed to be right in the world.

So, the lesson here folks is that your crawl space most likely needs a dehumidifier in it, especially if you live in a humid climate. If you aren’t sure or are hesitant to to make the investment then at least check the humidity levels in your basement regularly to ensure that you aren’t having any problems arise. Most folks use a hand-held humidity reader like this one found on Amazon. The humidity shouldn’t be above sixty percent. If you notice that the number is increasing then there are a few things you can do before purchasing a dehumidifier. Just like I mentioned above, you can purchase liners and cover the floor and walls with these waterproof liners. This will help moisture from coming up from the exposed dirt as well as the cracks or gaps in your foundation.

If you install liners and have even sealed all of the vents in your crawlspace but you are still having high humidity then it may be time to purchase a dehumidifier. I’ll be honest with you folks, this won’t be a cheaper purchase and that is precisely why I mentioned the above strategies first. Hopefully, they work for you but if they do not then it may be time to bite the bullet and make that investment into a dehumidifier. After all, would you rather pay a one time expense or pay a massive repair bill like I did?

Earlier today I did an in-depth review on one such crawl space dehumidifier from AlorAir. This is a great product for these specific situations and will definitely solve your problem. Just be aware that it is not a cheap product. If you’re interested in reading more about this product click here to see our review. Just note that the first part of the review I told this same story so you might want to skip ahead where I get into the features of the product.

Thanks for reading and stay dry,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

AlorAir Basement or Crawl Space Dehumidifiers

Hello folks and welcome to RefrigerantHQ. Today we will be doing a review of AlorAir’s crawl space dehumidifier. We will go in-depth on all of this products features as well as the pros and cons. But, before I get into this I first want to give you a horror story on high humidity crawl spaces that I personally experienced last year. You see a damp, wet, or high humidity crawl space can cause a whole host of problems. The extra moisture can attract mold, pests, odors, and worst of all… structural problems. If you’d like to skip past my personal story then by all means move onto the next section called ‘Sizing.’ Otherwise, read on my friends….

A few years ago my family and I decided to move out to the country. We found twenty acres with beautiful land and ponds all around. It was ideal. The only problem that we had was that the house was relatively small and there was no basement. Instead, we had a crawl-space. This was troublesome since we lived in Tornado Alley and were only about an hour away from Joplin, Missouri where that EF5 tornado hit about ten years ago. But, we had a storm shelter and we made do.

The house that we had bought was older and a lot of the necessary maintenance work just hadn’t been done over the years. Overall, we didn’t have too many problems with the house but there was a reoccurring pain my side and that was the crawl space. Crawl spaces are quite a bit different then basements, which I was about to learn. Looking back at it now I should have paid more attention to the crawl space and the moisture that it was attracting. Instead, I opened the vent and forgot about it for a year.

Well, about a year into my house I noticed that the floor in my hallway to the back door felt strange. If you stepped in certain spots the floor would give a little bit. Almost like a sponge or like if you were to step on a trampoline. My kids thought it was great and would hop up and down on it. Of course, me being an idiot, did nothing for another month. The sinking floor feeling spread down the hallway and even into the master bathroom. At this time I was starting to freak out so I called contractor to take a look at what was going on.

After just a few minutes of inspection he knew what had happened. The excess humidity from the crawl space had seeped it’s way up into my floor joists and floor boards. That sinking feeling I felt was the plywood rotting out. If I had done nothing the plywood would have eventually rotted all the way and I would have had a gaping hole in my floor leading to the crawl space. It was a disaster. I had to have all of the floor ripped up the entire length of the hallway and in my master bathroom. The plywood was ripped out as well and replaced. Luckily, the floor joists were undamaged. All in this mistake ended up costing me about seven-thousand dollars in repair bills.

Once the repair was done I set to work fixing my crawl space. I bought some crawl space liner and covered the floor and the walls. I sealed all of the vents to the outside the best I could as well. I checked the sump pump to see if it was working correctly, and it was. So, the last thing I did was have a new dehumidifier installed. I lived in this house for another year and within that year I saw no further problems. The floor that was replaced was holding up just fine… and was much nicer then the rest of the home’s floor! The occasional times I went down to the crawlspace I saw no indication of water pooling or mold growing. All seemed to be right in the world.

So, the lesson here folks is that your crawl space most likely needs a dehumidifier in it, especially if you live in a humid climate. If you aren’t sure or are hesitant to to make the investment then at least check the humidity levels in your basement regularly to ensure that you aren’t having any problems arise. Most folks use a hand-held humidity reader like this one found on Amazon. The humidity shouldn’t be above sixty percent. If you notice that the number is increasing then there are a few things you can do before purchasing a dehumidifier. Just like I mentioned above, you can purchase liners and cover the floor and walls with these waterproof liners. This will help moisture from coming up from the exposed dirt as well as the cracks or gaps in your foundation.

If you install liners and have even sealed all of the vents in your crawlspace but you are still having high humidity then it may be time to purchase a dehumidifier. I’ll be honest with you folks, this won’t be a cheaper purchase and that is precisely why I mentioned the above strategies first. Hopefully, they work for you but if they do not then it may be time to bite the bullet and make that investment into a dehumidifier. After all, would you rather pay a one time expense or pay a massive repair bill like I did?

Sizing

First things first folks we have to determine which sized unit is right for you. This product from Alorair comes in two different sizes and three different models. There is the fifty-five pint model that can work in area up to thirteen-hundred square feet and then there are the ninety pint models that can work in rooms up to twenty-six-hundred square feet. Notice how I said models for the ninety pint? That is because one of the ninety pint models comes with a pump. I’ll get into the pump benefits later on in this article though.AlorAir Basement or Crawl Space Dehumidifiers

The question now though is what size is right for you? The fifty-five or the ninety? Well, first you need to determine that all important square footage. If you are at thirteen-hundred or just above it then I suggest you go with the ninety pint. The other factor that you have to consider is the overall dampness of the crawl space. Is there already standing water that you can see? Is the soil muddy and showing water as you walk through it? In my old house you would feel your foot sink into the mud as you walked through it. The more water there is in the environment the harder your dehumidifier will have to work.

So, if you have a one-thousand square foot crawl space but there is standing water in that crawl space then I am going to recommend the ninety pint model. With dehumidifiers it is always safest to go an extra size up just to ensure that you’ve got enough power to get the job done. The last thing I want you to do is purchase a unit that is too small and end up having the same problems you had before.

Product Features

Alrighty folks so now we are onto the meat and potatoes of this product review. This is where we will go over all of the various features that these three dehumidifiers have. The first and most obvious feature is the humidity control. This is where you will set your desired humidity and where you will see what the real humidity level is in your crawl space. The humidity is shown via a digital display. Upon turning the dehumidifier on it will show you the current humidity level in the crawl space, or other room that you have the appliance setup in. You are then able to begin adjusting the humidity to your desired level. This is done by using the up or down arrows. Each adjustment will take the number up or down by one percent. The humidity levels on this appliance can range from thirty-five to ninety-five percent. When you have set your desired humidity the screen will change back to show the current area’s humidity level. This dehumidifier can also work in lower temperatures when compared to other models. This unit has an operating range between thirty-four  to one-hundred and four degrees Fahrenheit.

There is also an option called Continuous Mode that can be triggered by setting the desired humidity level to below thirty-six percent. You will know it worked as the ‘Cont. Defrost,’ light will have lit up green and the humidity readout will state ‘CO.’ Continuous mode is just that, the dehumidifier will run constantly without stopping. If you’d like to shut this off then adjust the humidity level back about that thirty-six percent threshold.

Some of you may not know this but a dehumidifier is almost the exact same thing as an air conditioner. Yes, you have nearly all of the same components and even operating cycle that air conditioners or refrigerators have. You see your air conditioner functions as a dehumidifier a well. That is why your inside air conditioning unit has a hose leading to a drain. In a crawl space home this drain is usually located just outside the home next to your air conditioner. The hose was only about five or six feet and it came out of the evaporator towards the drain. This water that is being drained is the same water that will be filling up your dehumidifier. The only real difference between these two machines is that the dehumidifier has an extra heating element in the last step of the cycle. This is to prevent air conditioned air from flowing into your home. This is also why you may feel some heat coming from your dehumidifier. Just like air conditioners your dehumidifier uses refrigerant. This dehumidifier from AlorAir uses the very popular HFC refrigerant known as R-410A. This is the same refrigerant that most new home air conditioners use as well. It is a very safe, non-toxic, and non-flammable refrigerant.

Just like an air conditioner your dehumidifier can eventually accumulate frost on the evaporator coils. If enough frost or ice accumulates then the unit will not be able to run correctly. Luckily, this AlorAir dehumidifier comes with an auto-defrost feature. What this means is that if the dehumidifier detects ice beginning to build it will shut down and instead focus on melting the ice. This is done by blowing the fan across the ice and preventing the refrigeration cycle from occurring again until the ice has all melted. You will know if your unit is defrosting by a red light indicator on the ‘Cont. Defrost,’ button. This feature is actually pretty common with other dehumidifiers as well but the AlorAir stands apart as it has what’s called a Hot Gas Valve Defrosting System. This makes for a much faster defrosting process than your standard system.AlorAir Basement or Crawl Space Dehumidifiers Control Panel

Continuing on with the components of this machine I should mention the evaporator coils. These are the coils that can get covered in ice that we just mentioned above. These coils are also a high failure point after years of use. If some of the coils get corroded or crack then the refrigerant in your dehumidifier can leak out resulting in your appliance no longer working. To help promote longevity of their product AlorAir has covered the evaporator coils with an epoxy coating. This will extend the life of the evaporator and help protect it against corrosives.

One more note on the internal workings of this machine, if you see a red light turn on in the ‘Comp’ button do not worry. All this means is that the compressor has kicked on and it is warming up. After a few minutes this light will turn from red to green and you will be good to go.

This AlorAir unit does come with a remote control system. That is something you don’t normally find on dehumidifiers and it’s a great feature as you don’t have to go down to the crawlspace to change settings every time. The downside here is that this controller does not come with the purchase of the unit. Unfortunately, you have to buy it separately. The controller can be found by clicking here.

This isn’t necessarily a feature but it is prudent that I bring it up. There are a variety of options when it comes to installing one of these dehumidifiers in your crawl space. Some folks like to hang them from the foundation wall. Others like to suspend them from the floor joists in the center of the crawl space. Either one of these will work, but the easiest method is to get some foundation blocks, bricks, or cinder blocks and create a level surface in your crawl space. Once it is level you can then set your dehumidifier on top of the bricks, again ensure that the appliance is level. Installing the appliance on the ground is not only the easiest way to do it but it is also the only way to do it if you wish to use AlorAir’s warranty. Yes, that is correct. They require that the unit be ground mounted for any warranty claim to be honored.

One consideration you should keep in mind when installing is how close you are to a drainage area. Remember, that the water from your dehumidifier is going to need to go somewhere. If you have a drain in your crawl space already then that’s great and it makes things easy. However, if the drain you need is a ways away or not gravity fed then you are going to need a pump. AlorAir does offer their ninety pint model with a pump. So, if you needed to you could pump the water out through a vent in your crawlspace. Just make sure that the water has someplace to go and it doesn’t just roll back into your crawl space. The pump  may be more expensive but if you don’t remove the water then you’re not fixing anything.

This unit has some basic cleaning needs. The first and most needed is the cleaning of the filter. Now during my research I didn’t see an exact timing schedule to clean the air filter, but I am going to recommend at least every sixty days. The filter container is easily slid out and the filter can be popped into your hand. Note that before you attempt to remove the filter the dehumidifier should be off and unplugged. This is purely for safety reasons. You can clean the filter by taking a vacuum to it or by washing it with warm water. Do not use soap on it as you could damage the mesh. Before you put the filter back inside ensure that it is dry. Once the filter is back inside you are good to turn the machine back on. Besides the filter the outside of the unit should be wiped down with a cloth every few months to prevent dust, dirt, or grime from accumulating. Lastly, the evaporator coils should be cleaned once a year. You will need a special solvent to clean these coils and this is most likely something you can contract out to your local HVAC company.

These units require a one-hundred and fifteen power outlet. Before plugging it in please ensure that the outlet you used is grounded and is safe. This product comes with wheels to make for easy transport. The fifty-five point model weighs in at sixty pounds and the ninety pint model weighs in at ninety pounds. It also comes with adjustable feet so that when you are installing you can get the product as level as you need to be.

Pros

No matter if you buy the fifty-five pint or the ninety pint these units are quality made. They are tough and meant to withstand operating in a crawlspace for years on end. Now, I’d like to spend a whole bunch of time getting into the various Pros of this product but I did what I usually end up doing. I mentioned nearly all of the Pros in our Product Features section and now I don’t have as much to talk about! One of these times I’ll learn my lesson. That being said, here are some of the quick Pros that I didn’t mention above.AlorAir Basement or Crawl Space Dehumidifiers2

This dehumidifier is easy. What I mean by that is once you get it installed, hopefully level on the ground, all you have to do is connect the drainage line, set the humidity you want, set a timer cycle, and then walk away. It’s that easy. It’s even easier if you have the remote attachment. That way you can glance at the humidity level in your crawl space from inside the comfort of your home. The only thing you’ll have to do is occasionally go down there and clean the filter and the machine itself.

While this unit is marketed towards crawl spaces don’t let that fool you. This appliance can be used in a variety of applications. It could be that you have a large unfinished basement you want to control the humidity levels on. Or, perhaps you are in an office or a small warehouse. Whatever your need is this ninety pint model will definitely get the job done for you.

All three products are Energy Star certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. The Energy Star program is designed to evaluate various appliances and determine if they meet the EPA’s efficiency standards. An Energy Star appliances is on average about fifteen percent more efficient then a competing machine. Along with the Energy Star rating you also get a five year warranty from AlorAir. Yes, I said five years folks. That is a huge number that I frankly haven’t seen before. Most of the time I am seeing one to two year but a five year warranty is unheard of. It is good to see a company stand behind their product nowadays.

Cons

Every product, no matter who makes it, will have drawbacks. That’s just how it is. That being said, it was difficult to find specific cons on these products. Instead, nearly all of the complaints that I read through were towards the delivery of the product. Remember before how we stated that dehumidifiers are very similar to air conditioners and refrigerators? Well, just like with refrigerators you cannot turn or ship a dehumidifier upside down.

Just yesterday I was helping my father move a refrigerator and we were very careful not to tilt it too far. The reason for this is if the refrigerator or dehumidifier is upside down or tilted too far then the oil can drain out of the compressor. Without proper lubrication your compressor will fail and the compressor is by far one of the most important components of your air conditioner, refrigerator, or dehumidifier. Many folks have reported premature failures of their dehumidifiers… but this is most likely due to them turning on the product right away after it being upside down. If the product did arrive upside down then turn it right side up and then wait for quite a while, maybe even a day. Then, start your dehumidifier up and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It also may be best practice to wait a day or two before turning on your new dehumidifier. The product may come to your home right side up, but who is to know if it was like that earlier that day. Always better to be safe then sorry. The good news here though is that if your dehumidifier does end up not working after a few weeks or months the manufacturer offers a five year warranty. Through my research I had found cases where  they offered a complete replacement product. It’s good to know you’ll be protected here.

Price

I would be amiss if I didn’t mention this. The price on these units is quite high and may scare a lot of folks off. I completely understand that. What may happened here is that some folks may see that price then opt for a much cheaper model, maybe even a home model with a thirty pint capacity. If you are looking for a solution for your crawlspace then I would not recommend going that route. Yes, I know it is cheaper in the short term but in the long term you are going to pay for it.

I heard a quote the other day that stuck with me. It came from a seasoned plumber and it went like this, “I’m too poor to buy cheap tools.” In other words, he only buys premium tools because they are going to last forever. If he bought lower end tools then he’d be having to replace them every few years. The same can be applied here as well.

Cleaning

One of the main objectives of a dehumidifier is to lessen the possibility of mold growing within your home. But, what happens if the very thing that is supposed to be preventing the mold starts to grow mold itself? Well, this problem has happened to a lot of folks. Some may argue that this is a manufacturing defect and others would say that the consumers who had this problem didn’t take care of their dehumidifier in the first place.

A dehumidifier needs to be cleaned regularly. That means checking and cleaning the filter. Ensure that the machine itself is as clean as can be and if you began to suspect mold growing within it then take it apart and try to identify the culprit area. When dealing with water day in and day out there is always a chance that some could spill and get isolated within the machine only to stay there and become stagnant. This is a prime candidate for mold growth. This is why you need to stay vigilant and ensure the unit is as clean as it can be.

Conclusion

Ok folks I think we’ve finally made it. We have made it to the homestretch. I believe I have mentioned every possible feature and option there is on this unit and now it is time for you to make a decision. Is this the unit that you want for your home? Is it right for your home? Before I close this article let’s take another quick look at these dehumidifiers from AlorAir. There is the fifty-five point, the ninety pint, and the ninety pint with the pump. Between these three models they have over one-hundred and fifty reviews all with an average of four out of five stars. That equates to an eighty percent approval rating. That is pretty good if you ask me.

If you’d like to purchase this unit, or if you just have more questions, then I recommend you click here to be taken to our Amazon partner’s product page. Also, feel free to check out our ‘Important Links’ section below for more information on this product. However, if this isn’t the right one for you then I encourage you to keep shopping around and educating yourself. I hope this review was helpful and that it provided all necessary information.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson
RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

Yaufey 30 Pint Dehumidifier

If you’re like me then you most likely don’t think dehumidifiers very often. If you don’t need one in your home then it is never thought about. However, the moment you start to see things go wrong in your home such as a damp/musty smell in your basement, water collecting on the inside of the windows, or worst case having standing water form in your basement then you know it is time to get a dehumidifier.

The ideal humidity range for us is between forty to sixty percent. If you go lower then forty percent then you’ll end up with dry and cracking skin. In the extreme cases you respiratory tract can begin to dry out resulting in increased sickness and infections. On the other side of the coin if your humidity is over sixty percent in your home then you can experience the symptoms we mentioned above such as damp smells and water problems.

Along with those symptoms your home or room will have an increased likelihood for allergens to form. These allergens can vary widely from dust mites, fungus, to mold. In some cases the mold can get quite bad and begin growing on your walls, ceilings, floors, blankets, and even on your clothes. All of this can wreak havoc on a normal person’s allergy responses but if you or someone in your family suffers from asthma then that adds a whole other level to the suffering.

If you are experiencing these symptoms then a dehumidifier may be just what you need. Adding a dehumidifier to your room, basement, or home will allow you set the humidity percent to your desired level. So, if you find that fifty percent works best for you then all you have to do is set the controls and turn that machine on. It should be noted though that a dehumidifier is not a cure all. I like to think of them as a symptoms reliever. For example, if you have water in your basement time and time again then there may be another issue at hand. Perhaps you have a leak in your foundation. Adding a dehumidifier will get rid of the standing water but it will not fix the problem. Also, if you have a mold problem the dehumidifier will not remove the mold. Instead it will make the area less hospitable so that mold can no longer grow. So, that means you will still need to have the mold removed from the area.

Selecting a dehumidifier can be a tough decision. There are dozens of models and sizes out there. Each come with their own specific set of features. How are you to know which one is right for you? Well folks in this article we are going to do an in-depth product review of the Yaufey thirty pint dehumidifier model. We’re going to look at it’s features, the pros, and the cons. At the end of this article you should have a fairly good idea if this is the unit for you. Let’s take a look!Yaufey 30 Pint Dehumidifier

Sizing

First thing’s first folks. Before we get into the various features and options that come with this model we need to determine if this is the right sized unit for your home. Most of the time a dehumidifier will come in three different sizes. These are your thirty pint, fifty pint, and seventy pint. These sizes are a measurement of how much water the dehumidifier can remove from your home within a twenty-four hour period. There are smaller and larger sizes then the ones that I mentioned above but in most scenarios one of these sizes should satisfy your needs.

As to what size that you need, there are a few questions I need to ask you. First, how big is the room that you are looking to dehumidify? Is it five-hundred or one-thousand square feet? This could be a garage or smaller basement. Or, is it over one-thousand square feet? Next, how wet is the room that you are looking at? Is there just a damp or musty smell but no signs of beading or standing water? Or, is there water droplets forming on the inside of your windows? Is there standing water on the floor? There are a few different measures of this, but to keep things simple today let’s go with a damp or a wet room.

This thirty pint model from Yaufey will be a great fit for a room under one-thousand square feet and if that room is damp. It would not be a good fit in the same sized room if the room is wet. The wetter the room the larger the size of dehumidifier that you are going to need. So, if you have standing water in the room the a thirty pint model isn’t going to cut it. You may need to move up to the fifty, or in some cases even the seventy pint. The good news here is that with dehumidifiers going a larger size then you need isn’t a problem. If you are not sure exactly what size you need then I would suggest going up one size to ensure that your appliance is the right size for the job.

Product Features

Ok folks so now can move onto the meat and potatoes of this article, the product features. In this section we are going to review each and every possible thing that is on this dehumidifier. The first and most important feature is the humidity settings. When you power this unit on it will display to you on a digital screen the actual humidity in the room. From here you can then press the setting button to adjust the humidity to your desired level. This unit has a humidity range between thirty to eighty percent and each adjustment will take the setting up or down by five percent.

Continuing on with the options on this control panel we have the timer setting. This option will allow you to enter in either a delayed start or a delayed stop. In other words, you can set the appliance not to turn on until five hours as passed. Or, you can set the dehumidifier to run for six hours and then automatically shut-off. This setting can be adjusted in one-hour increments all the way up to twenty-four hours. This is a great feature if you want it to run during the night and have it shut-off during the day.Yaufey 30 Pint Dehumidifier Control Panel

This next setting is rather basic, but it’s worth mentioning anyways. There is a speed setting. Adjusting this will change the fan from normal to high. The higher the fan’s setting the more quickly the unit will remove moisture from the room. Perhaps starting out you can have this set to high but as the room begins to air out you can adjust back down.

This appliance can remove up to four gallons, or thirty pints, of water per day. All dehumidifiers come with a water tank. After all, where does all that water go that they are removing? In the case of this model it has a 3.8 pint tank capacity, or .47 gallons. When this water tank is full the machine will shut-off and an indicator will light up on the control panel informing you that the bucket needs emptied.

If you are not a fan of constantly emptying the water bucket there is also a continuous drain option. This works by attaching a simple garden hose to the continuous drain and then routing the hose to a floor drain nearby. Please remember that this hose will be gravity fed. In other words, it cannot drain upwards into a sink or bathtub. Instead it will have be routed to a drain that is lower then the dehumidifier itself.

A lot of folks may not know this, but dehumidifiers are basically small air conditioners. You see an air conditioner actually removes humidity from the air as well. This is why your central air conditioner’s evaporator (The part above your furnace.) will drain water through a hose to your basement floor. This is the removed humidity. This is also why your basement can sometimes flood if this drainage pipe is clogged. The only main difference between an air conditioner and a dehumidifier is that the dehumidifier actually warms the air back up before it expels. All of the same parts are there though including refrigerant. In the case of this Yaufey dehumidifier model it uses the HFC refrigerant known as R-134a. This is most likely the same refrigerant that is used in your car.

Because dehumidifiers are the same as air conditioners you can also run into very similar problems such as the coils on the evaporator freezing. I won’t get into the technical reasons as to why this can occur, but it can happen and when it does your dehumidifier will freeze up and no longer work as intended. The good news here is that the this product comes with an automatic defrost feature. When this feature is engaged it will turn the air conditioner part of the dehumidifier off and just run the fan. This will cause the ice to melt on the coils over time and result in the system running again. A word of caution here though, if this keeps occurring then you may need to deep clean the dehumidifier to prevent future occurrences.

The last few options that I want to mention here are rather basic but still worth a short mention. The first is that this unit comes with an easily removable filter. Dehumidifier filters should be cleaned once a month and this unit’s filter is easily able to be popped out, cleaned, and popped right back in. Lastly, this unit only weighs in about about twenty-five pounds and it comes with roller wheels to make transporting a breeze.

Pros

First, I have to mention the price point on this product. I know I’ve already said this before but this product is aggressively priced when compared to other models. If you are looking to save a bit of money and not worried about having extra features then I would pick this product! You get a great price and a solution to your problem. Just keep in mind though folks that this is a smaller dehumidifier it will not work in large areas and it will not work in very wet areas. This was designed for a damp basement that is under one-thousand square feet. Or, it was designed for a bedroom. If you need a larger area then I suggest going up a size.

I swear I always end up doing this but it still happened. While writing the Product Features section I inadvertently include all of the Pros that I want to mention in this section. I don’t want to sound like a broken record here so instead I’ll provide one more Pro that I didn’t mention and then move onto the next section. That pro is the warranty. You see most dehumidifiers come with a twelve month warranty. It seems to be the standard. I’ve seen some other models with a twelve month warranty and a sixty day money back guarantee. I found something interesting though in this Yaufey model’s instruction booklet. If you register your product within sixty days then you will receive an additional twelve month warranty. That’s right folks, a full two year warranty. That is an impressive especially considering the price point of this product. You typically don’t see two year warranty until you get to the higher end products. The registration can be done at https://www.yaufey.com/account/register.

Cons

The two major cons on this product I have already touched on before. The first is the thirty pint size. This unit will NOT work in a large room especially if that room is wet or has reoccurring standing water. You should buy a larger sized unit in these situations. The other con is that this unit is rather bare bones. Yes, it will dehumidify your home but it does not have all of the bells and whistles as some of the other units out there.

Another important point of note here is that if your unit arrives to your home upside down then do NOT start it right away. As I have mentioned earlier a dehumidifier works just like an air conditioner or a refrigerator does. I’m sure that you’ve heard of not turning a refrigerator upside down, right? Well, the same principle applies. You see if the unit arrives upside down then all of the oil has most likely drained out of the compressor. With no oil this will cause a premature failure and your unit will be useless. If it has arrived upside down then put it right side up and then LEAVE it for a few days. I’d say two to three. By then the oil will have drained back to where it should be and you shouldn’t have any issues down the road. A good portion of the ‘negative’ reviews on this product is strictly because of this problem. It can be avoided though simply by doing the above instructions.

Be sure to clean your dehumidifier often. It is recommended that you wash the filter at least once a month. This can be done using a soft cloth and water. It is also suggested that you wipe down the outside of the unit every few weeks to ensure it stays clean. Please note that you should always turn off and unplug your appliance before cleaning. This is the safest approach.

Also do not let water sit in the tank for a large amount of time. While yes, the dehumidifier removes humidity from your home, it won’t do you any good if you leave it in your dehumidifier. If water is left in there or if you do not clean your unit regularly then you’ll end up mold growing on the inside of the unit. This defeats the entire purpose of having the dehumidifier as you now have your very own mold host! Be sure to clean your unit folks.

Conclusion

Alright folks so that about covers it. We’ve gone through all of the various product features on this Yaufey model and we have also taken a look at the various Pros and Cons. Overall I would say it’s a good buy as long as you are not using it for too large or too wet of an area. But hey, don’t take my word for it. If we look at our Amazon partner we can see that there are nearly five-hundred reviews out there with an average rating of four and a half our of five stars. That’s a ninety percent rating, an A if you will.

You get  this highly rated product for a relatively lower price point. If you are interested in purchasing then please click here to be taken to Amazon. However, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers. We go into sizing requirements, what features to look for, and many other topics.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

R-134a Refrigerant

One of my most visited articles this year was on the topic of the Environmental Protection Agency’s proposed phase down and eventual phase out of the HFC R-134a. This article is a few years old now and it was referencing the EPA’s SNAP Rule 20 and 21. These rules, which were issued in 2015, stated that R-134a would no longer be acceptable for use in new 2021 model year vehicles.

When I wrote that article everyone was under the impression that this phase out would come to fruition and auto-makers would be forced to switch away from R-134a just as they had done in the 90’s with R-12. There was very little debate on it, it was just the next logical step. However, the winds of politics changed a few years after the EPA announced their new regulations.

In the summer of 2017 a federal court overturned the EPA’s regulations stating that they had overstepped their authority. The argument was that the EPA was using authority granted to them by the Clean Air Act and the Montreal Protocol. Both of these refer to Ozone damage done by products that contain chlorine. Since HFCs contain no chlorine and do not harm the Ozone the EPA does not have authority to phase them out. HFCs do harm the environment, just not in the specific way that these documents lay out. It may have been a loophole, but the law is the law.

This was a surprise to a lot of folks and it caught many companies off guard. I know that courts are supposed to be impartial when it comes to politics but I find it an odd coincidence that a short while after Trump is elected we see this significant overturn in government policy. The court’s ruling voided the EPA’s SNAP Rule 20 and 21 regulations including the one on R-134a. So, as of 2017 there is NOT a scheduled phase out date for R-134a. When I initially heard about this ruling I had assumed automakers would take the easy route and continue the status quo with R-134a.

I was wrong. Over the years more and more makes and models are switching their new vehicles away from R-134a and over to the HFO 1234yf. Earlier this year I wrote an article that attempted to gather a listing of ALL manufactured cars and what refrigerant they are using for their 2020 models. This article took quite a bit of time as I had to dig through instruction manuals for each of these vehicles in an effort to determine the refrigerant they used. The article can be found by clicking here.

The results were rather astounding. If you look at the top fifty selling cars within the United States there are only fifteen using R-134a. That is a seventy percent market share and those numbers are growing with each passing year. Over the next few years there is a prediction that up to ninety percent of cars will be using 1234yf. There are a few reasons for this but in my opinion one of the biggest is that the European Union and other countries have already begun phasing out R-134a. The EU is using R-1234yf and R-744 in their newer vehicles. Perhaps, in an effort of engineering simplification these auto-makers have decided to bite the bullet and switch to 1234yf.

The other major reason for this is pressure from state and environmental groups. While the Federal Government doesn’t have a phase out plan for R-134a there are many states that do. These states makeup what’s known as the Climate Alliance. While not all of these states have announced an HFC phase out plan a good portion of them have. Some of the largest are California, New York, and Washington State. These states can have enormous sway with auto-makers. Just imagine if Ford could no longer sell their trucks in California or New York. That would be a huge impact. Why not make ALL of their vehicles compatible and just use 1234yf?

Conclusion

So, instead of the phase out that occurred with R-12 we have seen a phase out occur due to attrition. Over time the amount of cars using R-134a is going to shrink and shrink. Yes, it may take another ten years or so to get most of the R-134a vehicles off the streets but, in essence, the phase out has already begun. With all of the twists and turns the R-134a phase out has had it is somewhat ironic that we may hit the ninety percent 1234yf usage by the year 2021. While we may have not met the EPA’s goal entirely we are going to be darn close.

Before I close this article I did want to bring up one additional point. This is a question that I’ve had in the back of my mind when it comes to 1234yf. You see, I work in the heavy duty trucking industry. Think over-the-road trucks, dump trucks, water trucks, etc. Through all of this talk on phasing out R-134a for automotive vehicles I have seen very little, or in some cases nothing, when it comes to R-134a usage in truck classes six, seven, and eight.

I have seen the amount of R-134a a single truck dealership can go through in a year. The numbers can be staggering. The question I have is when will these truck OEMs begin to seriously look at 1234yf? Has Kenworth or Freightliner already begun looking? The only news stories I could find on it are three or more years old and reference the original EPA rule as gospel. If we’re going to phase out R-134a in automotive we have to phase it out in heavy-duty as well.

I wonder, when will these OEM behemoths make the move?

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

MIDEA MAD50C1ZWS, MAD50C1YWS, & MAD20C1ZWS Dehumidifier

Adding a dehumidifier to your home can solve a host of problems. It could be that you’ve noticed a damp or musty smell every time that you walk into your basement. Perhaps you have even seen some water droplets collecting on your basement windows, or worse yet, standing water on your basement floor. Or, in a less drastic scenario, maybe you have someone in your home who suffers with allergies or asthma. A house with too much humidity creates a breeding ground for dust mites, fungus, and mold. If left unchecked mold can begin to grow throughout your home including on your walls, floors, blankets, and even on your clothes. This mold, along with other allergens, can wreak havoc on someone who suffers with asthma.

Running a dehumidifier in your home can fix a lot of these issues. You see the best humidity for us is somewhere between forty to sixty percent. If you go to far under that forty percent number then you will end up with dry and cracking skin. On top of that, your house will become so dry that your lungs and respiratory tract will begin to dry out. This can lead to more susceptibility to sickness. On the inverse, when humidity is higher then sixty percent, then we run into the allergen problems we mentioned above.

Installing a dehumidifier will allow you to customize the humidity level within your room, basement, or home. Find what’s most comfortable for your and get cracking! The question now though is what dehumidifier should you purchase? There are so many choices nowadays it can be a bit overwhelming. In this article we are going to take an in-depth look at one of those choices. Today we are going to review the thirty, fifty, and seventy pint dehumidifier models from Midea. Are these the right ones for you? Let’s find out!

Sizing

First thing’s first folks. Before you purchase a dehumidifier you have to understand what size of product that you need. The main thing to understand is that you CAN get a dehumidifier that is too small for your home but you can NOT get a dehumidifier that is too large. This is different then say an air conditioner. With an air conditioner you need to get the sizing rather exact for the room or home you’re trying to cool. With a dehumidifier the rule of thumb is bigger is better, but you also want to be price conscious as well.

MIDEA MAD50C1ZWS, MAD50C1YWS, & MAD20C1ZWS Dehumidifier

  • MAD20C1ZWS – This is the thirty pint model. In other words, it can remove up to thirty pints of water within a twenty-four hour period. This is the smallest size and while it will work for a moderately damp area you will get better results if you move to the fifty pint. (If your area is a thousand square feet or under you can get away with the thirty pint without an issue.) This unit also works great for a small room or bathroom that you are looking to dehumidify.
  • MAD50C1YWS – This is the fifty pint model. In most cases this is going to cover your needs. Even if you have some moisture beading on your walls. This will dehumidify up to fifteen-hundred square feet as long as you don’t have actual standing water in your home. Again, this is great for your basement or large open area within your home or office.
  • MAD50C1ZWS – This is the seventy pint model. This is the biggest size of this model range and will be more then big enough to handle a two-thousand square feet area with standing water. Most folks recommend going a size larger then what you need when it comes to dehumidifiers. Your machine won’t work as hard and will last longer.

I typically recommend that my readers purchase the larger size and I am going to do the same here… except more so. You see this dehumidifier’s price is quite a bit cheaper then other competing products. That means that a seventy pint with this model is going to be about the same price as a fifty pint of a different model. So, while you’re spending by getting a seventy pint you are also getting more then you normally would through other models out there. I hope that makes sense! I won’t get too much more into sizing requirements here, but if you’d like to read more then I suggest you click here to be taken to our dehumidifier sizing guide.

Product Features

We are now ready for the ‘meat and potatoes’ of my review. In this section we are going to take a look at all of the various features that comes with these three dehumidifiers. Before I get started you should know that most of these features are pretty standard on other dehumidifiers. I did not see anything unique that stuck out to me on these units, but the main selling area is the price point. It is significantly cheaper then other models out there.

All three of these units come with a digitally displayed humidity level. An image of this control panel, with the humidity display, is shown further on in this article. These controls will allow you to adjust the humidity in the room to your liking. It can range from thirty-five percent to eighty-five percent. The product can work within temperatures ranging from forty-one to ninety-five degrees.

A cool feature on this unit is the auto-defrost setting. For those of you who do not know, a dehumidifier works exactly like an air conditioner does. And, just like an air conditioner, a dehumidifier can occasionally accumulate frost or ice on it’s evaporator coils. When this happens the appliance is no longer able to function as intended. Well folks this unit from Inofia has an auto-defrost feature. When frost is detected the compressor and all other sections of the machine will turn off. This prevents any more ice from accumulating. The only thing that remains on is the fan. This fan will constantly be blowing against the ice which will cause it to melt. After the ice has melted the system will turn back on and begin dehumidifying again.

The next major feature to mention here is the water tank. All dehumidifiers come with a water tank… after all that water has to go somewhere, right? The thirty pint model comes with a 0.8 gallon water tank and the fifty or seventy pint model comes with a 1.6 gallon tank. If the tank is full of water then an indicator will flash on the control panel and the dehumidifier will shut-off to prevent any water from overflowing out of the machine and onto your floor. If the prospect of having to empty a bucket again and again doesn’t sound like too much fun there is also a drainage connector that will allow you to screw in a normal garden hose. This hose can then be routed to a nearby drain. This is the best feature if you want to set it and forget it as the dehumidifier will continue to run and drain the water as it goes. It should be noted though that this feature is gravity fed. So, you cannot drain to a sink or other place that is HIGHER then the dehumidifier. Most folks end up using the same drain that their central air conditioner uses in their basement.

These next features are smaller then the previously mentioned ones but they are still worth bringing to light. The first is that the fan on this dehumidifier has two settings. There is a low and a high setting. On the actual control panel you will see the high setting labeled as ‘Turbo.’ This is the same as high. When ‘Turbo’ is on the fan is set to high and when it is off the fan is set to low. Along with the fan settings these models also come with a timer feature. The timer can be set to so that the appliance will run up until the hour limit you determine has been reached. This range goes from zero up to twenty-four hours.

Also on the control panel is a reminder to clean the air filter on this dehumidifier. After so many hours the indicator will light up informing you that it needs to be cleaned. The filter can be easily removed by pulling outwards from the machine. Washing the filter is as easy as running clean water through it and then letting it dry. It is important to note that you should not run the dehumidifier without the filter in it.

The last few features are rather basic. There is a continuous operation option that allows for the dehumidifier to constantly be running. If you experience a power loss in your home the appliance has an auto-restart function. So, when your power comes back on the dehumidifier will start right back up where it left off. This is nice as it’s one less thing you have to remember to reset during a power outage. Lastly, these models come with four wheels to make transport easy. The product itself is rather light as it only comes in at around forty pounds so if you wanted to pick it up and carry it up or down stairs you shouldn’t have a problem.

Pros

First, I have to mention the price point on this product. I know I’ve already said this before but this product is aggressively priced when compared to other models. If you are looking to save a bit of money and not worried about having extra features then I would pick this product! The next pro is the warranty on this product. There is a full one year warranty policy. This is pretty standard for most dehumidifiers but there was something that did stick out to me.

This product is Energy Star certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. The Energy Star program is designed to evaluate various appliances and determine if they meet the EPA’s efficiency standards. An Energy Star appliances is on average about fifteen percent more efficient then a competing machine. What this means is that it will end up costing you less per month then a competing dehumidifier that is not Energy Start certified.

The next Pro is the overall sound of this appliance. This dehumidifier has a decibel rating of forty-nine.  That noise level is the equivalent of a hushed conversation within a library. That is quite a difference when compared to other dehumidifiers who range between fifty to sixty decibels. This unit would be great if you need a dehumidifier for your bedroom but you are also a light sleeper. Noise level is also one of the constant complaints that I see on other dehumidifier models. So, this is quite the Pro.MIDEA MAD50C1ZWS, MAD50C1YWS, & MAD20C1ZWS Dehumidifier2

Cons

During my research on these products I found two complaints. The first one was that the timer feature stopped working after a few months of use. While this isn’t a huge deal, it is a major feature that a lot of folks enjoy using. I could definitely see myself running the unit at night with a timer shut-off in the morning, but if the timer isn’t working then that obviously won’t happen. This other con that I saw a couple times was that the dehumidifier gets confused as to how full the bucket is. The bucket may only be twenty or thirty percent full but it thinks it has a full bucket so the unit shuts-off and will not start until it sees the bucket as empty. There are a couple choices here if this happens to you. You could either play around with it and see if you get it to read the bucket correctly. You could set up a hose for continuous drainage so you don’t have to use the bucket, or you could contact the manufacturer and file a warranty claim.

Another important point of note here is that if your unit arrives to your home upside down then do NOT start it right away. As I have mentioned earlier a dehumidifier works just like an air conditioner or a refrigerator does. I’m sure that you’ve heard of not turning a refrigerator upside down, right? Well, the same principle applies. You see if the unit arrives upside down then all of the oil has most likely drained out of the compressor. With no oil this will cause a premature failure and your unit will be useless. If it has arrived upside down then put it right side up and then LEAVE it for a few days. I’d say two to three. By then the oil will have drained back to where it should be and you shouldn’t have any issues down the road. A good portion of the ‘negative’ reviews on this product is strictly because of this problem. It can be avoided though simply by doing the above instructions.

Be sure to clean your dehumidifier often. Also do not let water sit in the tank for a large amount of time. While yes, the dehumidifier removes humidity from your home, it won’t do you any good if you leave it in your dehumidifier. If water is left in there or if you do not clean your unit regularly then you’ll end up mold growing on the inside of the unit. This defeats the entire purpose of having the dehumidifier as you now have your very own mold host! Be sure to clean your unit folks.

Conclusion

Alright folks, we’ve gone over every possible thing that I can think of when it comes to these dehumidifiers. We’ve reviewed all of the features, the Pros, the Cons, and everything in between. Is this the right unit for you? Well, that depends. Are you more of a price conscious consumer and not as worried about various features and options? If so, then this unit is for you. It will get the job done as well as save you some money versus some of the other models. If you’d like to purchase this product please click here to be taken to our Amazon partner’s product page.

On the other hand though, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers. We go into sizing requirements, what features to look for, and many other topics.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

What Is It?

A packaged terminal air conditioner, or PTAC, is a ductless, self-contained air conditioning unit that heats and cools contained areas. PTACs are used as a way to cut costs and increase energy efficiency in places like hotels, hospitals, senior residential facilities, apartments and residential add-ons like sunrooms. They are most commonly seen under the windows of many of the hotels and motels across the country. 

PTACs are available as electric heat or reverse cycle heat pumps. While PTAC dimensions are standardized at 42×16 inches, 36×15 inches, and 40×15 inches, they come in different cooling capacities ranging from 7,000 BTUs to 17,000 BTUs. They are made by many different manufacturers, including Amana, GE, Train, Friedrich and LG. 

How it works

PTACs can both heat and cool. To cool the air, PTACs use either traditional refrigerant or fresh air intake. PTACs use an evaporator coil that faces the room to be cooled and a condensing coil, which faces the outside. 

Using fresh air intake is comparable to opening a window. The PTAC pulls air directly from outside through the unit via a vent in the back. Some models also have a dehumidifier built in that removes moisture from the outside air. 

The most common method, however, is recirculating inside air through a refrigerant, which is also the most efficient method. The refrigerant cools the coil, which removes the heat and humidity of the air. The air is then released through the unit through fans and a vent. 

To control the air temperature on a PTAC unit, you have the option of using either controls on the PTAC itself or installing a wall thermostat. A wall thermostat opens up the possibility of installing a programmable controller with an energy management system and even WiFi compatible options. 

Energy management systems can be as simple as “smart” thermostats like Nest or as complicated as an integrated smart home system that can control lights, climate, appliances and electronics. These systems are designed to optimize energy use and interact with the power grid.  

All PTAC units have resistive electric heat. That involves wires that get hot and a fan that blows air across them — like a blow dryer. Many PTACs use only  resistive electric heat, but some also have a reverse cycle heat pump. 

A heat pump works similarly to a window unit air conditioner, except in reverse. It blows hot air into the building and cold air out the back by using a valve that changes the flow of the freon in the unit. Heat pumps draw 25-75% less wattage than other electric heat units. 

How a PTAC differs from a window unit

A PTAC differs from a window unit in efficiency and commercial components. A window unit hangs outside of a wall and has vents on the side of the casing. It cools the outside coil by drawing in air from the side vents, while a PTAC has solid sides. A PTAC is also mounted flush to the wall, so from the outside you can only see the grill. 

Most window units also don’t have heating capabilities. 

Cost savings

PTACs save money on power bills by only climate controlling the rooms you need to have heated or cooled. In a commercial application like a hotel or hospital, a giant heating and cooling system that controls the climate of the whole building is very expensive because it has to be on the entire time. 

With a PTAC unit, each unit is cooling only one room at a time. Additionally, each room can be set to a unique temperature, allowing occupants to stay comfortable based on their personal preference.

It’s not just commercial buildings that benefit. Homeowners often add PTAC units in areas of the house that are hard to cool, like lofts and attic spaces. Additions to houses, like sunrooms, are also great places for a PTAC. Using a PTAC in these spaces prevents homeowners from having to add new ductwork that’s connected to the existing HVAC system.

How to Get The Right Size PTAC for Your Room

A British Thermal Unit is a way to measure energy. The technical definition describes it as the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. For air conditioners, the BTUs tell how much energy it takes to remove the heat using the compressor system. 

The number of BTUs tells you how powerful your unit is and describes how much energy can be produced per hour. If a PTAC unit is labeled as 5,000 BTUs, it can produce 5,000 BTUs of energy per hour. 

If the BTU capacity of your PTAC is too small, your room won’t get adequately cooled. Inversely, if the BTU capacity is too large for the space, it will leave the room feeling damp and can lead to issues with mold. In addition, an oversized PTAC unit actually wastes energy.

Energy Star recommends a 5,000 BTU PTAC for a room between 100-150 square feet. For each 50 square foot increment, add 1,000 BTUs. 

  • If the room is heavily shaded, reduce capacity by 10 percent
  • If the room is very sunny, increase capacity by 10 percent
  • If more than two people regularly occupy the room, add 600 BTUs for each additional person
  • If it’s used in a kitchen, increase capacity by 4,000 BTUs
  • A second story room may need a 10 percent increase

Using a PTAC with a BTU level higher than what you need can cause the unit to cycle on and off too frequently. That can shorten the unit’s lifespan. If you get one that is too small, the unit will run almost continuously but never get the room to your desired temperature. 

Basic maintenance of a PTAC

Like HVAC units, PTACs should be cleaned once a year, typically before temperatures start to warm up. Unplug your PTAC prior to cleaning if you are working on anything inside the unit. Air filters should be cleaned with a vacuum or running water every 30 days to prevent them from getting clogged and restricting air flow. 

Preventative maintenance goes a long way in preserving the lifespan of your PTAC. Most units are designed to last 15 years, but many hotels swap them out every six to seven years because they aren’t maintaining them properly. 

The indoor coil, condenser coil and base pan can all be washed under low pressure, but this should be done by a professional, who will ensure that all debris and dust are cleaned out. A vacuum can also be used to suck up any dust or debris. 

The front cabinet can be cleaned with a mild cleaning agent to keep it clean and dust-free. 

About The Author

Author Name: Crystal Huskey
Bio: Crystal Huskey is a content writer at PTACUnits.com, an online distributor for PTAC units, along with a full range of parts and accessories.
Website Link: https://www.ptacunits.com/

Inofia GA2 30 Pints Dehumidifier

There are a variety of reasons as to why you would purchase a dehumidifier. It could be that you have an allergy or an asthma sufferer and you need clean air circulating throughout your home. It could be that you have noticed water collecting on the inside of your windows in certain rooms of your home. Or, it could be that you have noticed a damp or somewhat musty smell emanating from your basement.

If left unchecked excess humidity in your home can cause a host of problems. This could be something as simple as that mildewy smell that we mentioned above or it could something more sinister such as mold growing on your floor, walls, and blankets. You see folks, the ideal humidity for us is between forty to sixty percent. Anything below forty percent and our skin and even our respiratory tracts begin to dry out. This can lead to sickness and painful rashes. On the other end of the spectrum if the humidity is too high then you could run into standing water as well as allergens such as dust mites, fungus, and mold.

Adding a dehumidifier to your home is a great way to treat the symptoms of a higher humidity environment. It should be known though that a dehumidifier will only treat the symptoms and will not fix the issue. So, if you have reoccurring standing water in your basement or other room then you should look into correcting that as well. A dehumidifier will get rid of the dampness and prevent mold from taking hold but you will still need to identify and correct the cause of your humidity issue.

Whatever your reason for purchasing a dehumidifier there are a variety of choices that will have to be considered. That just seems how it is in today’s world. The problem with this is that folks don’t know what to pick. Which one is best? Which one is worth your time? In this article we’re going to take an in-depth look at one of these dehumidifiers: Inofia’s thirty pint dehumidifier. Is this the right unit for you? Let’s dive in and find out!

Inofia GA2 30 Pints Dehumidifier
Inofia GA2 30 Pints Dehumidifier

Sizing

First thing’s first folks. We need to determine if this unit is the right size for you. You see there are three main sizes of larger dehumidifiers. They come in thirty pints, fifty pints, and seventy pints. The pint sizing is a measurement on how much water these units can remove from a room during a twenty-four hour period. The Inofia dehumidifier comes in a thirty pint size. This is one of the smaller sized units.

There are two questions that you have to consider before your purchase. What is the square footage of the room you are wanting this appliance for? Secondly, how damp or wet is the room? If the room is just damp and has a musty smell and the room is under one-thousand square feet then this dehumidifier will work great for you.

However, if the room is larger or if the room is wet then you will need a larger unit like a fifty or seventy pint. A room is classified as wet if you notice water beading on the floors, walls, or windows. You could also see moisture seeping in at the edges of the room. In the extreme cases you may actually having standing water. In these cases it is best to go with a larger dehumidifier unit. The only con that there is when going with a larger unit is the price. I won’t get too much more into sizing requirements here, but if you’d like to read more then I suggest you click here to be taken to our dehumidifier sizing guide.

Product Features

Ok folks, now we can dive into all of the details on this product. First let’s look at the most important feature and that is the humidity control and setting. This unit from Inofia has a humidity range between thirty to eighty percent. It can be operated in rooms with a variety of temperatures ranging from forty-one degrees to ninety-five degrees Fahrenheit. The humidity can be adjusted by clicking in the ‘Setting’ button. Each click of the button will adjust the desired humidity in five percent increments. You will also be able to see the desired humidity level in the digital display as shown on the image within this article.

Along with the humidity settings there are a few other features we should take a look at. The first is the overall fan speed of the dehumidifier. This can be adjusted from high to low. Next is what’s known as the timer feature. This setting will allow you to set the unit to run for a specific amount of time and then shut-off. It’s a set it and forget it feature. With each click of the button you add an hour to the shut-off time. This can be stacked until you reach the limit of twenty-four hours. You are also able to see via an indicator light if the timer is on or not.

Another cool feature on this unit is the auto-defrost setting. For those of you who do not know, a dehumidifier works exactly like an air conditioner does. And, just like an air conditioner, a dehumidifier can occasionally accumulate frost or ice on it’s evaporator coils. When this happens the appliance is no longer able to function as intended. Well folks this unit from Inofia has an auto-defrost feature. When frost is detected the compressor and all other sections of the machine will turn off. This prevents any more ice from accumulating. The only thing that remains on is the fan. This fan will constantly be blowing against the ice which will cause it to melt. After the ice has melted the system will turn back on and begin dehumidifying again.

Inofia GA2 30 Pints Dehumidifier Control Panel

All dehumidifiers come with a water tank. After all, the water that they are removing from the room has to go somewhere, right? In the case of this unit it comes with a 1.8 liter water tank. This equates to about a 3.8 capacity. So, if this unit removes thirty pints a day then you’ll have to empty the bucket seven or eight times per day. This is also where a larger unit may come in handy… or you could go with the continuous drainage route. The continuous drainage is what I would recommend, but you have to realize that the hose is gravity fed only. That means that the target drainage area HAS to be lower then the dehumidifier itself. This will work great if you are using this in a garage or basement where there is a floor drain. If there is not a drain then you may have to get creative or stick with emptying the water tank a few times each day. The good news is that if you stick with just using the water tank there is a water tank full indicator on the machine and the appliance will shut-off automatically to prevent water from spilling onto your floor. If the tank is full a flashing light on the control panel will inform you.

This appliance does come with a filter that will have to be cleaned regularly during operation. The filter can be popped out and either cleaned with a vacuum or washed with warm water. This is an easy task that won’t take more then a few minutes. The unit itself is relatively light weight and can be easily transported around your home. It comes in at only twenty-five pounds and has a handle at the top of it for easy mobility.

Pros

I seem to always do this to myself, but I ended up doing it again. You see a lot of the Pros that I wanted to mention have already been mentioned above in our ‘Product Features,’ section. That being said, I am sure that I can find some more. First, let’s take a look at the warranty on this product. There is a full one year warranty policy. This is pretty standard for most dehumidifiers but there was something that did stick out to me. This unit comes with a sixty day money-back guarantee. So, if you are not satisfied after a month of use you can return the product and get a full refund. That’s quite the benefit and it also shows you how much they back their product.

The next Pro is the overall sound of this appliance. This dehumidifier has a decibel rating of forty-four.  That noise level is the equivalent of a hushed conversation within a library. That is quite a difference when compared to other dehumidifiers who range between fifty to sixty decibels. This unit would be great if you need a dehumidifier for your bedroom but you are also a light sleeper. Noise level is also one of the constant complaints that I see on other dehumidifier models. So, this is quite the Pro.

Cons

The biggest con that I can find on this unit is it’s overall size. Yes, this will get the job done for a smaller room but if you’re looking at dehumidifying an entire basement then this may not be the right unit for you. I always like to make the recommendation to go up that extra size. Yes, there is more money involved but you’re getting a nicer unit and it will resolve the humidity problem that you’re having that much faster. On top of that you’ll get a larger water tank and other extra features. But, if you’re just looking to use this unit in a small room then I would recommend it. You have to be the judge though. Do you think you need a larger unit, or will this one suffice?

Another important point of note here is that if your unit arrives to your home upside down then do NOT start it right away. As I have mentioned earlier a dehumidifier works just like an air conditioner or a refrigerator does. I’m sure that you’ve heard of not turning a refrigerator upside down, right? Well, the same principle applies. You see if the unit arrives upside down then all of the oil has most likely drained out of the compressor. With no oil this will cause a premature failure and your unit will be useless. If it has arrived upside down then put it right side up and then LEAVE it for a few days. I’d say two to three. By then the oil will have drained back to where it should be and you shouldn’t have any issues down the road. A good portion of the ‘negative’ reviews on this product is strictly because of this problem. It can be avoided though simply by doing the above instructions.

Be sure to clean your dehumidifier often. Also do not let water sit in the tank for a large amount of time. While yes, the dehumidifier removes humidity from your home, it won’t do you any good if you leave it in your dehumidifier. If water is left in there or if you do not clean your unit regularly then you’ll end up mold growing on the inside of the unit. This defeats the entire purpose of having the dehumidifier as you now have your very own mold host! Be sure to clean your unit folks.

Conclusion

Well folks we’ve gone through absolutely everything that I can think of when it comes to this product. We have looked at sizing requirements, all of the features, the pros, the cons, and everything else in between. The question now though is this the right dehumidifier for you?  Don’t just take my word on this product though folks. There are over five-hundred reviews on Amazon on this dehumidifier from Inofia. All of these review come together for an average rating of four and a half starts out of five. I am very confident that you’ll be happy with this product as long as it fits your sizing requirements. If you are looking to purchase this product please visit our Amazon partner by clicking here.

On the other hand though, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links:

Last week the United States Senate announced a bi-partisan bill that would give the Environmental Protection Agency the power to phase out HFC refrigerants over a fifteen year period. This bill is in response to the Trump Administration’s inaction on the Kigali Amendment. Back in 2016 the Obama Administration pledged their support of the Montreal Protocol amendment but when it came time for ratification the Trump Team sat on it and has not passed it to the Senate for review.

Over the past few years of there was a double blow to phasing out HFC refrigerants across the Untied States. Not only did Trump refuse to ratify the Kigali Amendment but we also saw the overturning of the EPA’s HFC phase down regulations. The EPA had planned a scheduled phase down and eventual phase out of popular HFC refrigerants such as R-404A and R-134a. This plan was announced back in 2015 but it was challenged in the courts by the MexiChem corporation.

The premise was that the EPA was using the Clean Air Act and the Montreal Protocol for their authority. The Clean Air Act was designed to phase out CFC and HCFC refrigerants due to the Chlorine that they contained. There was not a mention of HFC refrigerants in the law, only Chlorine Ozone damaging substances. The EPA’s SNAP Rule 20 was overturned by the courts and the proposed HFC phase down laws were erased.

The bill introduced last week is known as the American Innovation and Manufacturing Act. It was introduced by Democrat Senator Tom Carper of Delaware and Republican Senator John Kennedy of Louisiana. Fourteen other senators announced their support for the bill as well.

The bill itself aims at phasing down and eventually out HFC refrigerants over a fifteen period. The bill was written with the consultation of various industry experts so that a fair timeline could be established for businesses for the phase down.

Déjà Vu

I feel like this new bill is déjà vu. We’ve seen this before. In fact, back in February of 2018 a bill was introduced by the same two Senators with the exact same name. (Source) They even referenced the same job report and economic numbers as they did previously. With this new bill Senators are promising an addition of one-hundred and fifty-thousand jobs and thirty-nine billion dollars of growth for our economy.

I just don’t see it folks. First of all, this bill isn’t going anywhere. It’s going to die in the Senate. Even if it did get to the House and by some miracle they passed it then Trump would veto it and we would be back where we started. Secondly, I am very skeptical of those job numbers economic growth.

What are these jobs? Manufacturing and plant workers? HVAC installations and retrofits? Is there going to be that much more demand for these new refrigerants? If so, what is happening to the existing systems? Is this new economic growth number the result of business owners and home owners being forced to upgrade or retrofit their systems? If this is the case then I wouldn’t call a government mandated purchase ‘economic growth.’  Instead, it is forcing business owners into compliance and causing a burden, especially on small business owners. This ‘growth’ has to come from somewhere.

Don’t get me wrong folks, I am not entirely against phasing out HFC refrigerants… but I’m not a fan of the way they are selling this to the legislators and to the people. They already tried this once with the EPA through a loophole, they got caught, and now they are trying to push a bill through with false/hopeful promises. It’s left a bad taste in my mouth.

Getting back to the topic on hand though, I do not see this bill going anywhere. The only chance that there is to pass a full scale HFC phase down law is to wait until after the 2020 election and see what the new incoming Congress and President are like. If things stay the same then there will not be a Federal HFC phase down for quite a while within the United States.

Instead, we will be left with a spattering of States adopting their own HFC phase downs with each one being just a little bit different. If this trend continues I might have to get into consulting…

For more information on the bill check out our ‘Sources’ section below.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Sources:

 

Dehumidifiers are not an appliance that a lot of folks think about. Well, they don’t think about it until they have a problem. The same can be said for air conditioners or furnaces. No one gives them much thought until a problem occurs. While a problem with an air conditioner is obvious – your house getting warmer – a problem with humidity is sometimes not as obvious.  The good news is that there are early warning signs when it comes to high humidity in your home. These could include water droplets or beads forming on the inside of your windows in a specific room or rooms. It could be a damp or somewhat musty smell when you are in your basement. In some extreme cases you could even begin to see mold growing in certain areas.

You see if an area is left with too much humidity a large amount of allergens can begin to take root and grow. The ideal humidity for us is between forty to fifty percent. Anything lower then forty results in very dry skin and respiratory problems. Anything over sixty percent and you begin to get those allergen issues. To some it may be an inconvenience but to others, especially asthma sufferers, mold can have a significant impact on their quality of life.

Adding a dehumidifier to your basement, room, or entire home can help alleviate this excess humidity and get you back to that ideal range. Once the humidity has been stabilized and any possible mold has been removed you should notice a significant improvement in the quality of your air. In this article we’re going to take an in-depth look at the seventy pint ‘PuriCare’ dehumidifier from the LG Corporation. We’ll find out if this is the right unit for you or if you should be looking elsewhere.

LG

Now before I get into the actual details, Pros, and Cons of a product I always like to take some time and look at the company behind the product. After all, the manufacturing company can say a lot about the quality of the product. Brand names have power. Don’t believe me? Just ask Coca-Cola or Toyota. These names mean something to people when they hear them. While a dehumidifier brand may not mean anything to you I can assure you that the same differences can still apply.

LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 1.0
LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 1.0

I’m sure most of you have heard of the company LG before. But, if you haven’t then let’s do a quick introduction. LG is a South Korean company that can be traced all the way back to 1958 under the name of Goldstar. (Just after the Korean War!) In 1995 they reorganized and became the company we know today as LG Electronics. Today, LG is a huge multi-national company spanning multiple countries and employing over eighty-thousand people. Their income is in the billions. I like to think of them as the General Electric of South Korea.

While this product may not be American made I can assure you that the quality is second to none and you also get the LG Electronics company standing behind your purchase. As I said before LG is a huge company and companies do not get to be giants unless they are providing a quality service or product. I would have no problems recommending an LG product to my readers.

Sizing

In the next section we are going to take a look at all of the various product features that these dehumidifiers have. This can range from the various controls and customization all the way to the overall weight of the appliance. I try to cover everything I possibly can here so that you get a good picture of what you’re getting into.

First things first though, before we start talking about the various features this product has we need to determine if this is the right dehumidifier for you. This is a seventy pint unit. This is one of the larger sizes of dehumidifiers on the market today. Typically you’ll find them in thirty pint, fifty pint, and seventy pint. The seventy pint model is rated to work in rooms up to two-thousand square feet. This would be more then enough for an entire basement or floor of your home. It could also work in an office environment.

Now, while there isn’t a problem going bigger then you need with dehumidifiers you could end up saving yourself some money by buying a smaller appliance if you are only going to be using it for a room or two. On the other hand though, you should also keep in mind how humid or wet the room is. If there is standing water in the room then you are definitely going to want to get a seventy pint model. Even though it’s a small room your dehumidifier will have to work harder due to the excessive moisture.

Basically, it boils down to you do you want to save some money and go with a smaller sized unit? Or, would you rather invest a bit more and get something that will handle the problem no matter what?

Product Features

Ok, so now that we’ve got sizing understood let’s take a look at the various other features that this products has. When looking at features I first like to take an in-depth look at the display control panel. This is where all of your alerts and customization takes place.

When it comes to features available we find most of the standard options that you see with other dehumidifiers. These include a digital display that allows you to set your desired humidity level. The numbers can easily be changed by pressing up or down arrows that will allow you to set a range between thirty to eighty percent. (Remember that between fifty to sixty percent is ideal.) The adjustments are done in five percent increments. This unit will work in temperatures as low as forty-one degrees as well so you can end up using it throughout most of the year.

LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 2
LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 2

Along with the humidity controls you’re also able to set the fan speed to high or low.  There is a timer setting that will allow you to set the dehumidifier to run for a certain amount of time and then automatically shut-off. The time can be increased by one hour increments up to twelve hours. This is helpful if you’re not looking to run the appliance constantly. It’s a set and forget feature. There is an LED indicator that the timer is on as well so you know that you’ve set it correctly.

Dehumidifiers come with a drainage bucket. After all, that water they are removing from the room has to go somewhere, right? Well after some time of running that bucket will fill up with water and will have to be emptied eventually. There is an indicator on the control panel that tells you when the bucket needs emptied. There is also a shut-off on the dehumidifier to prevent it from overflowing the bucket with water and having it spill all over your floor. If you’re not a fan of constantly emptying water buckets there is a drainage hose that can be purchased as well. This hose, once installed, will constantly drain the water collected from the dehumidifier to a nearby drain. This works great if the dehumidifier is setup in your basement as your central air conditioner already has a drain for it’s excess water.

There is an auto-defrost indicator on the control panel as well. This is a good feature to have on the unit as there are instances where the evaporator coils inside the dehumidifier can freeze over and stop the machine from working. This is the same problem that can happen on air conditioners. (After all, air conditioners and dehumidifiers work the same way.) If ice or frost does begin to build on the coils inside your machine this auto-defrost feature will stop dehumidifier process and instead run the heater and fan to eventually melt the ice off of the coils. Once the ice is melted the machine will turn back on and start to work again.

Besides that, the last feature on this control panel, excluding the power button, is the clean filter alert. This isn’t necessarily a button, but an LED light will come up alerting you that you need to clean the filter of your machine. This light will come on after three-hundred and fifty hours of operation. You will need to remove the filter, clean, reinsert the filter, and then click on the ‘Filter Reset Button’ for three seconds to reset.

Lastly, these units come caster wheels that make for easy transportation. But, if for whatever reason you aren’t able to use the wheels these dehumidifiers aren’t that heavy. The largest seventy pint model comes in at only fifty pounds. Most of us should be able to move this around when we need to.

Pros

One feature that I like on this particular product is what’s known as the ‘Safety Standby.’ I’ve been reviewing and researching dehumidifiers like crazy the past couple weeks and this is the first time that I have come across this feature. Basically, it is a safety feature that prevents the appliance from overheating and causing a potential fire risk. What it does is if your dehumidifier has been running constantly for twenty-three hours the safety standby feature will turn the unit off for one hour. This one hour gap time gives the appliance a chance to cool down and prevent any overheating. Pretty clever, huh?

LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 3.0
LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 3.0

This product is Energy Star certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. The Energy Star program is designed to evaluate various appliances and determine if they meet the EPA’s efficiency standards. An Energy Star appliances is on average about fifteen percent more efficient then a competing machine. What this means is that it will end up costing you less per month then a competing dehumidifier that is not Energy Start certified.

Along with the Energy Star rating you also get a one year full warranty from LG. Per their instruction manual:

“LG Electronics U.S.A., Inc. (“LG”) warrants your LG Dehumidifier (“product”) against defect in materials or workmanship under normal household use, during the warranty period set forth below, LG will, at its option, repair or replace the product.”

Cons

Every product, no matter who makes it, will have drawbacks. That’s just how it is. That being said, it was difficult to find specific cons on these products. Instead, nearly all of the complaints that I read through were towards the delivery of the product. Remember before how we stated that dehumidifiers are very similar to air conditioners and refrigerators? Well, just like with refrigerators you cannot turn or ship a dehumidifier upside down.

Just yesterday I was helping my father move a refrigerator and we were very careful not to tilt it too far. The reason for this is if the refrigerator or dehumidifier is upside down or tilted too far then the oil can drain out of the compressor. Without proper lubrication your compressor will fail and the compressor is by far one of the most important components of your air conditioner, refrigerator, or dehumidifier. Many folks have reported premature failures of their dehumidifiers… but this is most likely due to them turning on the product right away after it being upside down. If the product did arrive upside down then turn it right side up and then wait for quite a while, maybe even a day. Then, start your dehumidifier up and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It also may be best practice to wait a day or two before turning on your new dehumidifier. The product may come to your home right side up, but who is to know if it was like that earlier that day. Always better to be safe then sorry. The good news here though is that if your dehumidifier does end up not working after a few weeks or months Frigidaire offers a one year warranty. Through my research I had found cases where Frigidaire offered a complete replacement product. It’s good to know you’ll be protected here.

Cleaning

One of the main objectives of a dehumidifier is to lessen the possibility of mold growing within your home. But, what happens if the very thing that is supposed to be preventing the mold starts to grow mold itself? Well, this problem has happened to a lot of folks. Some may argue that this is a manufacturing defect and others would say that the consumers who had this problem didn’t take care of their dehumidifier in the first place.

A dehumidifier needs to be cleaned regularly. That means checking and cleaning the filter. The filter is located at the back of these machines as shown in our previous screenshot. Again, I couldn’t find this information to be one-hundred percent sure, but most of these dehumidifier filters come with what’s known as an anti-bacterial mesh. This mesh aims at preventing bacteria. If you attempt to clean the filter with water then you risk washing away this protective coating. Instead you should either try to shake it out or use a low powered vacuum with a hose attachment. This will clean the filter and still protect your coating. It’s not just the filter though that needs to be cleaned. Ensure that the machine itself is as clean as can be and if you began to suspect mold growing within it then take it apart and try to identify the culprit area. When dealing with water day in and day out there is always a chance that some could spill and get isolated within the machine only to stay there and become stagnant. This is a prime candidate for mold growth. This is why you need to stay vigilant and ensure the unit is as clean as it can be.

Conclusion

Well folks I believe we have covered absolutely everything that there is to cover when it comes to this dehumidifier. You have read through the product features, the pros, and even the cons. We can also view on Amazon.com that this product has a four out of five stars rating with over two-hundred reviews. I can assure you that with the research that I have put into this product that it would make a good addition to your home.

The question now though is this the right dehumidifier for you? If you are looking to purchase this product please visit our Amazon partner by clicking here. On the other hand though, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links