It had always been my dream to have some land to play around on. A few years back I purchased twenty acres with an older home on it. This older home did not have a basement but instead had a crawl space. At the time of purchasing I didn’t know the first thing about crawl spaces. I had only grown up in homes with basements and I knew nothing of what to look for, how to take care of it, and how to prevent issues. Looking back at the past couple years I know I could have done things so much better. I ended up paying some hefty repair bills and I’m sharing this story with you so that you hopefully don’t make the same mistakes that I did.

The house that we had bought was older and a lot of the necessary maintenance work just hadn’t been done over the years. Overall, we didn’t have too many problems with the house but there was a reoccurring pain my side and that was the crawl space. Crawl spaces are quite a bit different then basements, which I was about to learn. Looking back at it now I should have paid more attention to the crawl space and the moisture that it was attracting. Instead, I opened the vent and forgot about it for a year.

It was about a year later that I was walking down my hallway that led out to our back porch. As I was walking I noticed something strange in a specific spot. I stepped on it and felt the sensation of the floor sinking. It felt similar to a sponge or when you would step onto a trampoline. Your foot would sink slightly. It was only in this specific spot so, like an idiot, I ignored it and carried on with life. It was about a month later that this spot had expanded its way down the hallway and another spot had formed on the other side of the hall in the master bathroom. At this point I knew things were bad and I called a contractor out to the house to figure out what the hell was going on.

Larry, our contractor, came out about a few days later and started poking around. It only took him about ten minutes to figure out what the problem was. You see my crawl space had water problems. If you walked around down there, which I avoided as much as I could because it sucked, you would find standing water. Where you didn’t find standing water your feet would sink into the mud as you walked. There was no poly liner on the floor or on the foundation walls. There wasn’t even a dehumidifier. The sinking feeling that I had in my floor was the rotting of the floor board plywood due to the excess humidity and moisture in my crawl space. The crawl space was rotting my home from the inside out. Not good.

Larry handed me his quote for the repairs and I was taken aback. It was going to cost be about seven-thousand dollars to get this repaired. All of the flooring in the back hallway and the master bathroom had to be ripped up. The plywood floorboards underneath all had to be replaced. It was a disaster. Once he got going on the repair I set some time aside to start correcting my crawl space. The first thing I did was seal it up tight. I forget who told me this, but someone had told me that when buying a home with a crawl space it is best to let air out and have multiple vents open throughout the year. Well, after further research I found that was a mistake. So, I sealed up all the vents.

Next I bought some crawl space liner and covered the floor and the walls. By sealing the floor with liner you prevent the water from the soil seeping into your crawl space. The same can be said on your foundation walls if you have cracks or ways for water to get in. The water won’t be getting through that liner if you do it right. So, the last thing I did was have a new dehumidifier installed. I lived in this house for another year and within that year I saw no further problems. The floor that was replaced was holding up just fine… and was much nicer then the rest of the home’s floor! The occasional times I went down to the crawlspace I saw no indication of water pooling or mold growing. The mud was gone as well. All seemed to be right in the world.

So, the lesson here folks is that your crawl space most likely needs a dehumidifier in it, especially if you live in a humid climate. If you aren’t sure or are hesitant to to make the investment then at least check the humidity levels in your basement regularly to ensure that you aren’t having any problems arise. Most folks use a hand-held humidity reader like this one found on Amazon. The humidity shouldn’t be above sixty percent. If you notice that the number is increasing then there are a few things you can do before purchasing a dehumidifier. Just like I mentioned above, you can purchase liners and cover the floor and walls with these waterproof liners. This will help moisture from coming up from the exposed dirt as well as the cracks or gaps in your foundation.

If you install liners and have even sealed all of the vents in your crawlspace but you are still having high humidity then it may be time to purchase a dehumidifier. I’ll be honest with you folks, this won’t be a cheaper purchase and that is precisely why I mentioned the above strategies first. Hopefully, they work for you but if they do not then it may be time to bite the bullet and make that investment into a dehumidifier. After all, would you rather pay a one time expense or pay a massive repair bill like I did?

Earlier today I did an in-depth review on one such crawl space dehumidifier from AlorAir. This is a great product for these specific situations and will definitely solve your problem. Just be aware that it is not a cheap product. If you’re interested in reading more about this product click here to see our review. Just note that the first part of the review I told this same story so you might want to skip ahead where I get into the features of the product.

Thanks for reading and stay dry,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

AlorAir Basement or Crawl Space Dehumidifiers

Hello folks and welcome to RefrigerantHQ. Today we will be doing a review of AlorAir’s crawl space dehumidifier. We will go in-depth on all of this products features as well as the pros and cons. But, before I get into this I first want to give you a horror story on high humidity crawl spaces that I personally experienced last year. You see a damp, wet, or high humidity crawl space can cause a whole host of problems. The extra moisture can attract mold, pests, odors, and worst of all… structural problems. If you’d like to skip past my personal story then by all means move onto the next section called ‘Sizing.’ Otherwise, read on my friends….

A few years ago my family and I decided to move out to the country. We found twenty acres with beautiful land and ponds all around. It was ideal. The only problem that we had was that the house was relatively small and there was no basement. Instead, we had a crawl-space. This was troublesome since we lived in Tornado Alley and were only about an hour away from Joplin, Missouri where that EF5 tornado hit about ten years ago. But, we had a storm shelter and we made do.

The house that we had bought was older and a lot of the necessary maintenance work just hadn’t been done over the years. Overall, we didn’t have too many problems with the house but there was a reoccurring pain my side and that was the crawl space. Crawl spaces are quite a bit different then basements, which I was about to learn. Looking back at it now I should have paid more attention to the crawl space and the moisture that it was attracting. Instead, I opened the vent and forgot about it for a year.

Well, about a year into my house I noticed that the floor in my hallway to the back door felt strange. If you stepped in certain spots the floor would give a little bit. Almost like a sponge or like if you were to step on a trampoline. My kids thought it was great and would hop up and down on it. Of course, me being an idiot, did nothing for another month. The sinking floor feeling spread down the hallway and even into the master bathroom. At this time I was starting to freak out so I called contractor to take a look at what was going on.

After just a few minutes of inspection he knew what had happened. The excess humidity from the crawl space had seeped it’s way up into my floor joists and floor boards. That sinking feeling I felt was the plywood rotting out. If I had done nothing the plywood would have eventually rotted all the way and I would have had a gaping hole in my floor leading to the crawl space. It was a disaster. I had to have all of the floor ripped up the entire length of the hallway and in my master bathroom. The plywood was ripped out as well and replaced. Luckily, the floor joists were undamaged. All in this mistake ended up costing me about seven-thousand dollars in repair bills.

Once the repair was done I set to work fixing my crawl space. I bought some crawl space liner and covered the floor and the walls. I sealed all of the vents to the outside the best I could as well. I checked the sump pump to see if it was working correctly, and it was. So, the last thing I did was have a new dehumidifier installed. I lived in this house for another year and within that year I saw no further problems. The floor that was replaced was holding up just fine… and was much nicer then the rest of the home’s floor! The occasional times I went down to the crawlspace I saw no indication of water pooling or mold growing. All seemed to be right in the world.

So, the lesson here folks is that your crawl space most likely needs a dehumidifier in it, especially if you live in a humid climate. If you aren’t sure or are hesitant to to make the investment then at least check the humidity levels in your basement regularly to ensure that you aren’t having any problems arise. Most folks use a hand-held humidity reader like this one found on Amazon. The humidity shouldn’t be above sixty percent. If you notice that the number is increasing then there are a few things you can do before purchasing a dehumidifier. Just like I mentioned above, you can purchase liners and cover the floor and walls with these waterproof liners. This will help moisture from coming up from the exposed dirt as well as the cracks or gaps in your foundation.

If you install liners and have even sealed all of the vents in your crawlspace but you are still having high humidity then it may be time to purchase a dehumidifier. I’ll be honest with you folks, this won’t be a cheaper purchase and that is precisely why I mentioned the above strategies first. Hopefully, they work for you but if they do not then it may be time to bite the bullet and make that investment into a dehumidifier. After all, would you rather pay a one time expense or pay a massive repair bill like I did?

Sizing

First things first folks we have to determine which sized unit is right for you. This product from Alorair comes in two different sizes and three different models. There is the fifty-five pint model that can work in area up to thirteen-hundred square feet and then there are the ninety pint models that can work in rooms up to twenty-six-hundred square feet. Notice how I said models for the ninety pint? That is because one of the ninety pint models comes with a pump. I’ll get into the pump benefits later on in this article though.AlorAir Basement or Crawl Space Dehumidifiers

The question now though is what size is right for you? The fifty-five or the ninety? Well, first you need to determine that all important square footage. If you are at thirteen-hundred or just above it then I suggest you go with the ninety pint. The other factor that you have to consider is the overall dampness of the crawl space. Is there already standing water that you can see? Is the soil muddy and showing water as you walk through it? In my old house you would feel your foot sink into the mud as you walked through it. The more water there is in the environment the harder your dehumidifier will have to work.

So, if you have a one-thousand square foot crawl space but there is standing water in that crawl space then I am going to recommend the ninety pint model. With dehumidifiers it is always safest to go an extra size up just to ensure that you’ve got enough power to get the job done. The last thing I want you to do is purchase a unit that is too small and end up having the same problems you had before.

Product Features

Alrighty folks so now we are onto the meat and potatoes of this product review. This is where we will go over all of the various features that these three dehumidifiers have. The first and most obvious feature is the humidity control. This is where you will set your desired humidity and where you will see what the real humidity level is in your crawl space. The humidity is shown via a digital display. Upon turning the dehumidifier on it will show you the current humidity level in the crawl space, or other room that you have the appliance setup in. You are then able to begin adjusting the humidity to your desired level. This is done by using the up or down arrows. Each adjustment will take the number up or down by one percent. The humidity levels on this appliance can range from thirty-five to ninety-five percent. When you have set your desired humidity the screen will change back to show the current area’s humidity level. This dehumidifier can also work in lower temperatures when compared to other models. This unit has an operating range between thirty-four  to one-hundred and four degrees Fahrenheit.

There is also an option called Continuous Mode that can be triggered by setting the desired humidity level to below thirty-six percent. You will know it worked as the ‘Cont. Defrost,’ light will have lit up green and the humidity readout will state ‘CO.’ Continuous mode is just that, the dehumidifier will run constantly without stopping. If you’d like to shut this off then adjust the humidity level back about that thirty-six percent threshold.

Some of you may not know this but a dehumidifier is almost the exact same thing as an air conditioner. Yes, you have nearly all of the same components and even operating cycle that air conditioners or refrigerators have. You see your air conditioner functions as a dehumidifier a well. That is why your inside air conditioning unit has a hose leading to a drain. In a crawl space home this drain is usually located just outside the home next to your air conditioner. The hose was only about five or six feet and it came out of the evaporator towards the drain. This water that is being drained is the same water that will be filling up your dehumidifier. The only real difference between these two machines is that the dehumidifier has an extra heating element in the last step of the cycle. This is to prevent air conditioned air from flowing into your home. This is also why you may feel some heat coming from your dehumidifier. Just like air conditioners your dehumidifier uses refrigerant. This dehumidifier from AlorAir uses the very popular HFC refrigerant known as R-410A. This is the same refrigerant that most new home air conditioners use as well. It is a very safe, non-toxic, and non-flammable refrigerant.

Just like an air conditioner your dehumidifier can eventually accumulate frost on the evaporator coils. If enough frost or ice accumulates then the unit will not be able to run correctly. Luckily, this AlorAir dehumidifier comes with an auto-defrost feature. What this means is that if the dehumidifier detects ice beginning to build it will shut down and instead focus on melting the ice. This is done by blowing the fan across the ice and preventing the refrigeration cycle from occurring again until the ice has all melted. You will know if your unit is defrosting by a red light indicator on the ‘Cont. Defrost,’ button. This feature is actually pretty common with other dehumidifiers as well but the AlorAir stands apart as it has what’s called a Hot Gas Valve Defrosting System. This makes for a much faster defrosting process than your standard system.AlorAir Basement or Crawl Space Dehumidifiers Control Panel

Continuing on with the components of this machine I should mention the evaporator coils. These are the coils that can get covered in ice that we just mentioned above. These coils are also a high failure point after years of use. If some of the coils get corroded or crack then the refrigerant in your dehumidifier can leak out resulting in your appliance no longer working. To help promote longevity of their product AlorAir has covered the evaporator coils with an epoxy coating. This will extend the life of the evaporator and help protect it against corrosives.

One more note on the internal workings of this machine, if you see a red light turn on in the ‘Comp’ button do not worry. All this means is that the compressor has kicked on and it is warming up. After a few minutes this light will turn from red to green and you will be good to go.

This AlorAir unit does come with a remote control system. That is something you don’t normally find on dehumidifiers and it’s a great feature as you don’t have to go down to the crawlspace to change settings every time. The downside here is that this controller does not come with the purchase of the unit. Unfortunately, you have to buy it separately. The controller can be found by clicking here.

This isn’t necessarily a feature but it is prudent that I bring it up. There are a variety of options when it comes to installing one of these dehumidifiers in your crawl space. Some folks like to hang them from the foundation wall. Others like to suspend them from the floor joists in the center of the crawl space. Either one of these will work, but the easiest method is to get some foundation blocks, bricks, or cinder blocks and create a level surface in your crawl space. Once it is level you can then set your dehumidifier on top of the bricks, again ensure that the appliance is level. Installing the appliance on the ground is not only the easiest way to do it but it is also the only way to do it if you wish to use AlorAir’s warranty. Yes, that is correct. They require that the unit be ground mounted for any warranty claim to be honored.

One consideration you should keep in mind when installing is how close you are to a drainage area. Remember, that the water from your dehumidifier is going to need to go somewhere. If you have a drain in your crawl space already then that’s great and it makes things easy. However, if the drain you need is a ways away or not gravity fed then you are going to need a pump. AlorAir does offer their ninety pint model with a pump. So, if you needed to you could pump the water out through a vent in your crawlspace. Just make sure that the water has someplace to go and it doesn’t just roll back into your crawl space. The pump  may be more expensive but if you don’t remove the water then you’re not fixing anything.

This unit has some basic cleaning needs. The first and most needed is the cleaning of the filter. Now during my research I didn’t see an exact timing schedule to clean the air filter, but I am going to recommend at least every sixty days. The filter container is easily slid out and the filter can be popped into your hand. Note that before you attempt to remove the filter the dehumidifier should be off and unplugged. This is purely for safety reasons. You can clean the filter by taking a vacuum to it or by washing it with warm water. Do not use soap on it as you could damage the mesh. Before you put the filter back inside ensure that it is dry. Once the filter is back inside you are good to turn the machine back on. Besides the filter the outside of the unit should be wiped down with a cloth every few months to prevent dust, dirt, or grime from accumulating. Lastly, the evaporator coils should be cleaned once a year. You will need a special solvent to clean these coils and this is most likely something you can contract out to your local HVAC company.

These units require a one-hundred and fifteen power outlet. Before plugging it in please ensure that the outlet you used is grounded and is safe. This product comes with wheels to make for easy transport. The fifty-five point model weighs in at sixty pounds and the ninety pint model weighs in at ninety pounds. It also comes with adjustable feet so that when you are installing you can get the product as level as you need to be.

Pros

No matter if you buy the fifty-five pint or the ninety pint these units are quality made. They are tough and meant to withstand operating in a crawlspace for years on end. Now, I’d like to spend a whole bunch of time getting into the various Pros of this product but I did what I usually end up doing. I mentioned nearly all of the Pros in our Product Features section and now I don’t have as much to talk about! One of these times I’ll learn my lesson. That being said, here are some of the quick Pros that I didn’t mention above.AlorAir Basement or Crawl Space Dehumidifiers2

This dehumidifier is easy. What I mean by that is once you get it installed, hopefully level on the ground, all you have to do is connect the drainage line, set the humidity you want, set a timer cycle, and then walk away. It’s that easy. It’s even easier if you have the remote attachment. That way you can glance at the humidity level in your crawl space from inside the comfort of your home. The only thing you’ll have to do is occasionally go down there and clean the filter and the machine itself.

While this unit is marketed towards crawl spaces don’t let that fool you. This appliance can be used in a variety of applications. It could be that you have a large unfinished basement you want to control the humidity levels on. Or, perhaps you are in an office or a small warehouse. Whatever your need is this ninety pint model will definitely get the job done for you.

All three products are Energy Star certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. The Energy Star program is designed to evaluate various appliances and determine if they meet the EPA’s efficiency standards. An Energy Star appliances is on average about fifteen percent more efficient then a competing machine. Along with the Energy Star rating you also get a five year warranty from AlorAir. Yes, I said five years folks. That is a huge number that I frankly haven’t seen before. Most of the time I am seeing one to two year but a five year warranty is unheard of. It is good to see a company stand behind their product nowadays.

Cons

Every product, no matter who makes it, will have drawbacks. That’s just how it is. That being said, it was difficult to find specific cons on these products. Instead, nearly all of the complaints that I read through were towards the delivery of the product. Remember before how we stated that dehumidifiers are very similar to air conditioners and refrigerators? Well, just like with refrigerators you cannot turn or ship a dehumidifier upside down.

Just yesterday I was helping my father move a refrigerator and we were very careful not to tilt it too far. The reason for this is if the refrigerator or dehumidifier is upside down or tilted too far then the oil can drain out of the compressor. Without proper lubrication your compressor will fail and the compressor is by far one of the most important components of your air conditioner, refrigerator, or dehumidifier. Many folks have reported premature failures of their dehumidifiers… but this is most likely due to them turning on the product right away after it being upside down. If the product did arrive upside down then turn it right side up and then wait for quite a while, maybe even a day. Then, start your dehumidifier up and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It also may be best practice to wait a day or two before turning on your new dehumidifier. The product may come to your home right side up, but who is to know if it was like that earlier that day. Always better to be safe then sorry. The good news here though is that if your dehumidifier does end up not working after a few weeks or months the manufacturer offers a five year warranty. Through my research I had found cases where  they offered a complete replacement product. It’s good to know you’ll be protected here.

Price

I would be amiss if I didn’t mention this. The price on these units is quite high and may scare a lot of folks off. I completely understand that. What may happened here is that some folks may see that price then opt for a much cheaper model, maybe even a home model with a thirty pint capacity. If you are looking for a solution for your crawlspace then I would not recommend going that route. Yes, I know it is cheaper in the short term but in the long term you are going to pay for it.

I heard a quote the other day that stuck with me. It came from a seasoned plumber and it went like this, “I’m too poor to buy cheap tools.” In other words, he only buys premium tools because they are going to last forever. If he bought lower end tools then he’d be having to replace them every few years. The same can be applied here as well.

Cleaning

One of the main objectives of a dehumidifier is to lessen the possibility of mold growing within your home. But, what happens if the very thing that is supposed to be preventing the mold starts to grow mold itself? Well, this problem has happened to a lot of folks. Some may argue that this is a manufacturing defect and others would say that the consumers who had this problem didn’t take care of their dehumidifier in the first place.

A dehumidifier needs to be cleaned regularly. That means checking and cleaning the filter. Ensure that the machine itself is as clean as can be and if you began to suspect mold growing within it then take it apart and try to identify the culprit area. When dealing with water day in and day out there is always a chance that some could spill and get isolated within the machine only to stay there and become stagnant. This is a prime candidate for mold growth. This is why you need to stay vigilant and ensure the unit is as clean as it can be.

Conclusion

Ok folks I think we’ve finally made it. We have made it to the homestretch. I believe I have mentioned every possible feature and option there is on this unit and now it is time for you to make a decision. Is this the unit that you want for your home? Is it right for your home? Before I close this article let’s take another quick look at these dehumidifiers from AlorAir. There is the fifty-five point, the ninety pint, and the ninety pint with the pump. Between these three models they have over one-hundred and fifty reviews all with an average of four out of five stars. That equates to an eighty percent approval rating. That is pretty good if you ask me.

If you’d like to purchase this unit, or if you just have more questions, then I recommend you click here to be taken to our Amazon partner’s product page. Also, feel free to check out our ‘Important Links’ section below for more information on this product. However, if this isn’t the right one for you then I encourage you to keep shopping around and educating yourself. I hope this review was helpful and that it provided all necessary information.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson
RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

Yaufey 30 Pint Dehumidifier

If you’re like me then you most likely don’t think dehumidifiers very often. If you don’t need one in your home then it is never thought about. However, the moment you start to see things go wrong in your home such as a damp/musty smell in your basement, water collecting on the inside of the windows, or worst case having standing water form in your basement then you know it is time to get a dehumidifier.

The ideal humidity range for us is between forty to sixty percent. If you go lower then forty percent then you’ll end up with dry and cracking skin. In the extreme cases you respiratory tract can begin to dry out resulting in increased sickness and infections. On the other side of the coin if your humidity is over sixty percent in your home then you can experience the symptoms we mentioned above such as damp smells and water problems.

Along with those symptoms your home or room will have an increased likelihood for allergens to form. These allergens can vary widely from dust mites, fungus, to mold. In some cases the mold can get quite bad and begin growing on your walls, ceilings, floors, blankets, and even on your clothes. All of this can wreak havoc on a normal person’s allergy responses but if you or someone in your family suffers from asthma then that adds a whole other level to the suffering.

If you are experiencing these symptoms then a dehumidifier may be just what you need. Adding a dehumidifier to your room, basement, or home will allow you set the humidity percent to your desired level. So, if you find that fifty percent works best for you then all you have to do is set the controls and turn that machine on. It should be noted though that a dehumidifier is not a cure all. I like to think of them as a symptoms reliever. For example, if you have water in your basement time and time again then there may be another issue at hand. Perhaps you have a leak in your foundation. Adding a dehumidifier will get rid of the standing water but it will not fix the problem. Also, if you have a mold problem the dehumidifier will not remove the mold. Instead it will make the area less hospitable so that mold can no longer grow. So, that means you will still need to have the mold removed from the area.

Selecting a dehumidifier can be a tough decision. There are dozens of models and sizes out there. Each come with their own specific set of features. How are you to know which one is right for you? Well folks in this article we are going to do an in-depth product review of the Yaufey thirty pint dehumidifier model. We’re going to look at it’s features, the pros, and the cons. At the end of this article you should have a fairly good idea if this is the unit for you. Let’s take a look!Yaufey 30 Pint Dehumidifier

Sizing

First thing’s first folks. Before we get into the various features and options that come with this model we need to determine if this is the right sized unit for your home. Most of the time a dehumidifier will come in three different sizes. These are your thirty pint, fifty pint, and seventy pint. These sizes are a measurement of how much water the dehumidifier can remove from your home within a twenty-four hour period. There are smaller and larger sizes then the ones that I mentioned above but in most scenarios one of these sizes should satisfy your needs.

As to what size that you need, there are a few questions I need to ask you. First, how big is the room that you are looking to dehumidify? Is it five-hundred or one-thousand square feet? This could be a garage or smaller basement. Or, is it over one-thousand square feet? Next, how wet is the room that you are looking at? Is there just a damp or musty smell but no signs of beading or standing water? Or, is there water droplets forming on the inside of your windows? Is there standing water on the floor? There are a few different measures of this, but to keep things simple today let’s go with a damp or a wet room.

This thirty pint model from Yaufey will be a great fit for a room under one-thousand square feet and if that room is damp. It would not be a good fit in the same sized room if the room is wet. The wetter the room the larger the size of dehumidifier that you are going to need. So, if you have standing water in the room the a thirty pint model isn’t going to cut it. You may need to move up to the fifty, or in some cases even the seventy pint. The good news here is that with dehumidifiers going a larger size then you need isn’t a problem. If you are not sure exactly what size you need then I would suggest going up one size to ensure that your appliance is the right size for the job.

Product Features

Ok folks so now can move onto the meat and potatoes of this article, the product features. In this section we are going to review each and every possible thing that is on this dehumidifier. The first and most important feature is the humidity settings. When you power this unit on it will display to you on a digital screen the actual humidity in the room. From here you can then press the setting button to adjust the humidity to your desired level. This unit has a humidity range between thirty to eighty percent and each adjustment will take the setting up or down by five percent.

Continuing on with the options on this control panel we have the timer setting. This option will allow you to enter in either a delayed start or a delayed stop. In other words, you can set the appliance not to turn on until five hours as passed. Or, you can set the dehumidifier to run for six hours and then automatically shut-off. This setting can be adjusted in one-hour increments all the way up to twenty-four hours. This is a great feature if you want it to run during the night and have it shut-off during the day.Yaufey 30 Pint Dehumidifier Control Panel

This next setting is rather basic, but it’s worth mentioning anyways. There is a speed setting. Adjusting this will change the fan from normal to high. The higher the fan’s setting the more quickly the unit will remove moisture from the room. Perhaps starting out you can have this set to high but as the room begins to air out you can adjust back down.

This appliance can remove up to four gallons, or thirty pints, of water per day. All dehumidifiers come with a water tank. After all, where does all that water go that they are removing? In the case of this model it has a 3.8 pint tank capacity, or .47 gallons. When this water tank is full the machine will shut-off and an indicator will light up on the control panel informing you that the bucket needs emptied.

If you are not a fan of constantly emptying the water bucket there is also a continuous drain option. This works by attaching a simple garden hose to the continuous drain and then routing the hose to a floor drain nearby. Please remember that this hose will be gravity fed. In other words, it cannot drain upwards into a sink or bathtub. Instead it will have be routed to a drain that is lower then the dehumidifier itself.

A lot of folks may not know this, but dehumidifiers are basically small air conditioners. You see an air conditioner actually removes humidity from the air as well. This is why your central air conditioner’s evaporator (The part above your furnace.) will drain water through a hose to your basement floor. This is the removed humidity. This is also why your basement can sometimes flood if this drainage pipe is clogged. The only main difference between an air conditioner and a dehumidifier is that the dehumidifier actually warms the air back up before it expels. All of the same parts are there though including refrigerant. In the case of this Yaufey dehumidifier model it uses the HFC refrigerant known as R-134a. This is most likely the same refrigerant that is used in your car.

Because dehumidifiers are the same as air conditioners you can also run into very similar problems such as the coils on the evaporator freezing. I won’t get into the technical reasons as to why this can occur, but it can happen and when it does your dehumidifier will freeze up and no longer work as intended. The good news here is that the this product comes with an automatic defrost feature. When this feature is engaged it will turn the air conditioner part of the dehumidifier off and just run the fan. This will cause the ice to melt on the coils over time and result in the system running again. A word of caution here though, if this keeps occurring then you may need to deep clean the dehumidifier to prevent future occurrences.

The last few options that I want to mention here are rather basic but still worth a short mention. The first is that this unit comes with an easily removable filter. Dehumidifier filters should be cleaned once a month and this unit’s filter is easily able to be popped out, cleaned, and popped right back in. Lastly, this unit only weighs in about about twenty-five pounds and it comes with roller wheels to make transporting a breeze.

Pros

First, I have to mention the price point on this product. I know I’ve already said this before but this product is aggressively priced when compared to other models. If you are looking to save a bit of money and not worried about having extra features then I would pick this product! You get a great price and a solution to your problem. Just keep in mind though folks that this is a smaller dehumidifier it will not work in large areas and it will not work in very wet areas. This was designed for a damp basement that is under one-thousand square feet. Or, it was designed for a bedroom. If you need a larger area then I suggest going up a size.

I swear I always end up doing this but it still happened. While writing the Product Features section I inadvertently include all of the Pros that I want to mention in this section. I don’t want to sound like a broken record here so instead I’ll provide one more Pro that I didn’t mention and then move onto the next section. That pro is the warranty. You see most dehumidifiers come with a twelve month warranty. It seems to be the standard. I’ve seen some other models with a twelve month warranty and a sixty day money back guarantee. I found something interesting though in this Yaufey model’s instruction booklet. If you register your product within sixty days then you will receive an additional twelve month warranty. That’s right folks, a full two year warranty. That is an impressive especially considering the price point of this product. You typically don’t see two year warranty until you get to the higher end products. The registration can be done at https://www.yaufey.com/account/register.

Cons

The two major cons on this product I have already touched on before. The first is the thirty pint size. This unit will NOT work in a large room especially if that room is wet or has reoccurring standing water. You should buy a larger sized unit in these situations. The other con is that this unit is rather bare bones. Yes, it will dehumidify your home but it does not have all of the bells and whistles as some of the other units out there.

Another important point of note here is that if your unit arrives to your home upside down then do NOT start it right away. As I have mentioned earlier a dehumidifier works just like an air conditioner or a refrigerator does. I’m sure that you’ve heard of not turning a refrigerator upside down, right? Well, the same principle applies. You see if the unit arrives upside down then all of the oil has most likely drained out of the compressor. With no oil this will cause a premature failure and your unit will be useless. If it has arrived upside down then put it right side up and then LEAVE it for a few days. I’d say two to three. By then the oil will have drained back to where it should be and you shouldn’t have any issues down the road. A good portion of the ‘negative’ reviews on this product is strictly because of this problem. It can be avoided though simply by doing the above instructions.

Be sure to clean your dehumidifier often. It is recommended that you wash the filter at least once a month. This can be done using a soft cloth and water. It is also suggested that you wipe down the outside of the unit every few weeks to ensure it stays clean. Please note that you should always turn off and unplug your appliance before cleaning. This is the safest approach.

Also do not let water sit in the tank for a large amount of time. While yes, the dehumidifier removes humidity from your home, it won’t do you any good if you leave it in your dehumidifier. If water is left in there or if you do not clean your unit regularly then you’ll end up mold growing on the inside of the unit. This defeats the entire purpose of having the dehumidifier as you now have your very own mold host! Be sure to clean your unit folks.

Conclusion

Alright folks so that about covers it. We’ve gone through all of the various product features on this Yaufey model and we have also taken a look at the various Pros and Cons. Overall I would say it’s a good buy as long as you are not using it for too large or too wet of an area. But hey, don’t take my word for it. If we look at our Amazon partner we can see that there are nearly five-hundred reviews out there with an average rating of four and a half our of five stars. That’s a ninety percent rating, an A if you will.

You get  this highly rated product for a relatively lower price point. If you are interested in purchasing then please click here to be taken to Amazon. However, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers. We go into sizing requirements, what features to look for, and many other topics.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

How Much Does It Cost?

Hello folks and welcome to RefrigerantHQ! Before I get into the cost of Freon in this article I first want to take sometime and explain to you where the word Freon comes from and how it is used today. The term Freon is used throughout the country and the world. You see it on the news when people are discussing the price of refrigerant. You see it when irresponsible kids try to ‘huff Freon.’ You may even here your neighbors say it. Over the years the term Freon has become synonymous to the term refrigerant. Well, at least to those outside of the industry. To those of us within the industry we know that Freon does not mean the refrigerant that everyone else thinks it does.

Let me explain. The term ‘Freon,’ is actually a brand name. It is a brand name that the DuPont, now Chemours company, owns. The name was branded and trademarked back in the 1930’s on a new classification of refrigerants known as CFCs and HCFCs. These new refrigerants from the 1930’s were the first mainstream refrigerant to be used across the world. The most common ones out these were your R-12, R-502, and R-22. Nowadays these ‘Freon’ refrigerants have been phased out across the world. The only one you can still find is R-22 and that was phased out entirely on January 1st, 2020.

When we hear the term Freon we have to think of it like other brand names. For example, if you were thirsty and wanted a soda would you say that you want a Coke or would you say you want a soda? The Coke is the brand name of the soda, whereas the soda is the generic name that applies to all the various sodas out there. So, using this analogy Freon is to Coke as refrigerant is to soda. So, if you have an HVAC technician come out to your house and you tell him that your unit is low on Freon he may smirk or chuckle to himself. This is because your unit most likely doesn’t take Freon. It should be called refrigerant each and every time. This is a generic name that everyone knows what you’re talking about.

So, What Kind of Refrigerant Do I Need?

Ok, so now that we’ve got that out of the way let’s look into the pricing of the various refrigerants. In this article we are going to provide you with links to our various price per pound articles for 2020. These are various articles here and that leads me to my first point. You may be under the misconception that there is only one kind of refrigerant. In fact there are hundreds of different refrigerants out there. If you look at this list from Wikipedia you can see exactly what I am talking about. While that list may seem a little overwhelming, I do have some good news.

Out of that large list of refrigerants there are only a select few that are widely used in today’s world. A good portion of the refrigerants in that listing have been phased out over the years for a variety of reasons. They could have been toxic, flammable, Ozone damaging, or global warming damaging. When it comes to repairing an appliance or vehicle in 2020 the number of refrigerants that your appliance could take are significantly lessened.

As I was saying above, there are a select few refrigerants that your appliance are using in 2020. In fact, there are five main refrigerants that you are going run into over and over again. They are your HCFC R-22, HFC R-410A, HFC R-404A, HFC R-134a, and the HFO R-1234yf. This definitely makes it easier to identify what refrigerant you need. But, in an effort to make it even simpler let’s take a deeper look:

  • Automotive Application – Nowadays nearly every vehicle is using R-134a refrigerant for their vehicles. In recent years a new refrigerant known as HFO-1234yf is being used on newer models. If you car is a few years old or brand new then you will need to check if it takes 1234yf or not. Otherwise you are fairly safe to assume that your car is taking R-134a. For those of you who are into restoring classic cars you’ll find that you may end up needing R-12 Freon.
  • Home or Commercial Air Conditioner – These ones can be a little tricky. Depending on when you got your unit you most likely either have an R-22 unit or a R-410A unit. As I said in previous articles, R-22 was phased out in 2010 for new air conditioners. R-410A has been around since 2000, but it’s popularity didn’t really take off until the 2010 deadline hit for R-22. When it comes to cost though you better hope you have a R-410A unit rather than R-22. The difference in price between the two refrigerants is astonishing.
  • Refrigerators and Freezers (Home and Commercial) – The go to refrigerant for these applications has been R-404A. There are some other alternatives out there such as CO2 (R-744), R-502, and some other new HFO refrigerants coming out soon but today if you were having to recharge one of these you are most likely going to run into 404A.

Conclusion

Ok folks, so after reading the above section you should have a very good idea on what kind of refrigerant that your appliance or vehicle takes. That being said, never guess as to what kind of refrigerant your system needs. That my friends is a recipe for disaster. You cannot mix refrigerants with other refrigerants. If you do so you will permanently damage your system. Think of it like putting diesel into a gas vehicle. You shouldn’t do it. You have to know what refrigerant your system takes before anything else can be done.

In recent years there have been pushes to phase out some of these refrigerants. In fact, R-22 is going away entirely on January 1st, 2020. Other refrigerants such as the HFC classifications may end up being phased out fairly soon. If you happen to see a refrigerant that your appliance is using and that it is NOT in this list please reach out to me and I will do some research and get it added to this listing.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How Much Does It Cost?

Refrigerant is one of those things that no one really thinks about. People go throughout their days and it never crosses their minds. Why should it? It is one of those ‘hidden industries’ that no one really knows about. It is an inside club that only those within the industry are aware of. Regular people only become interested in the topic when it affects them. It’s human nature. The problem with refrigerants though is that it is such an ambiguous topic and there just isn’t that much content out there to read on it. So, when a homeowner is faced with a hefty repair bill how do they know they are being treated fairly? Or, if your vehicle’s air conditioning has quit working and you take it to the dealership how do you know you are receiving a market price for your refrigerant?

In this article we are going to provide you with links to our various price per pound articles for 2020. These are various articles here and that leads me to my first point. You may be under the misconception that there is only one kind of refrigerant. In fact there are hundreds of different refrigerants out there. If you look at this list from Wikipedia you can see exactly what I am talking about. While that list may seem a little overwhelming, I do have some good news.

Out of that large list of refrigerants there are only a select few that are widely used in today’s world. A good portion of the refrigerants in that listing have been phased out over the years for a variety of reasons. They could have been toxic, flammable, Ozone damaging, or global warming damaging. When it comes to repairing an appliance or vehicle in 2020 the number of refrigerants that your appliance could take are significantly lessened.

So, What Kind of Refrigerant Do I Need?

As I was saying above, there are a select few refrigerants that your appliance are using in 2020. In fact, there are five main refrigerants that you are going run into over and over again. They are your HCFC R-22, HFC R-410A, HFC R-404A, HFC R-134a, and the HFO R-1234yf. This definitely makes it easier to identify what refrigerant you need. But, in an effort to make it even simpler let’s take a deeper look:

  • Automotive Application – Nowadays nearly every vehicle is using R-134a refrigerant for their vehicles. In recent years a new refrigerant known as HFO-1234yf is being used on newer models. If you car is a few years old or brand new then you will need to check if it takes 1234yf or not. Otherwise you are fairly safe to assume that your car is taking R-134a. For those of you who are into restoring classic cars you’ll find that you may end up needing R-12 Freon.
  • Home or Commercial Air Conditioner – These ones can be a little tricky. Depending on when you got your unit you most likely either have an R-22 unit or a R-410A unit. As I said in previous articles, R-22 was phased out in 2010 for new air conditioners. R-410A has been around since 2000, but it’s popularity didn’t really take off until the 2010 deadline hit for R-22. When it comes to cost though you better hope you have a R-410A unit rather than R-22. The difference in price between the two refrigerants is astonishing.
  • Refrigerators and Freezers (Home and Commercial) – The go to refrigerant for these applications has been R-404A. There are some other alternatives out there such as CO2 (R-744), R-502, and some other new HFO refrigerants coming out soon but today if you were having to recharge one of these you are most likely going to run into 404A.

Conclusion

Ok folks, so after reading the above section you should have a very good idea on what kind of refrigerant that your appliance or vehicle takes. That being said, never guess as to what kind of refrigerant your system needs. That my friends is a recipe for disaster. You cannot mix refrigerants with other refrigerants. If you do so you will permanently damage your system. Think of it like putting diesel into a gas vehicle. You shouldn’t do it. You have to know what refrigerant your system takes before anything else can be done.

In recent years there have been pushes to phase out some of these refrigerants. In fact, R-22 is going away entirely on January 1st, 2020. Other refrigerants such as the HFC classifications may end up being phased out fairly soon. If you happen to see a refrigerant that your appliance is using and that it is NOT in this list please reach out to me and I will do some research and get it added to this listing.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How Much Does It Cost?

Well folks it is that time of year again already. Thanksgiving is just a few days away and the temperatures outside are thirty degrees or even colder here in Kansas City. Most people are focusing on the upcoming feast on Thursday or Black Friday that comes immediately after. I on the other hand am focusing on one thing this week and that is refrigerant. Yes, during this holiday refrigerant is on my mind… as it always is. You see during these colder months I find that things begin to slow down. The season is over and everyone has time to catch their breath. I have sometime to relax, think, and time to write articles.

Over the past five years or so I have taken the time to write a series of articles known as my ‘refrigerant price per pound’ posts. These articles aim at providing the end-user with the knowledge on exactly how much a refrigerant costs. These posts have quickly become some of my successful as this information just isn’t out there. If you search for refrigerant pricing you either can’t find much of anything and the stuff that you do find is at very highly inflated prices. Our goal here is to find the most up-to-date and realistic prices on refrigerants.

In this article we’re going to give you an accurate price per pound on R-1234yf. But, before we get into that I first want to take some time and go over some air conditioning basics for your vehicle. If you’re not interested in this and you are just looking for the price then please scroll towards the bottom of the article and look for a section titled, ‘Price Per Pound.’ Otherwise, if you are interested then please read on.

Know This Before Purchasing

Let’s say your vehicle’s air conditioner is no longer working. You’ve tried everything you can think of. You even tried a few AC recharge kits and the air only stayed cool for a few days. It is clear that you need a repair… but what should you expect with this repair? Obviously, every dealer or repair shop is going to charge differently for their parts and labor but the below section will at least give you some basic knowledge on what to expect as you take your car into the shop.

R-1234yf VS R-134a

Something that a lot of folks may not have realized is that in recent years the refrigerant that automobiles are using has switched. Yes, that’s right. A lot of newer vehicles are no longer using R-134a. Instead they have switched over to a newer HFO refrigerant known as R-1234yf. In the United States this switch started to occur in 2015 and with each passing year the number of cars that are using 1234yf has increased. In the next few years it is predicted that nearly ninety percent of the market will be using 1234.

Earlier this year I did an article where I put together a list of all cars and what refrigerant they were using for their 2019/2020 model years. This list took quite a bit of time as I had to dig through instruction manuals for all of these different vehicles. I didn’t find every single car but I found the majority. At the end of the exercise I had found that nearly seventy percent of cars produced in 2019 within the United States are using r-1234yf. That is a huge number folks. This article can be found by clicking here.

There is a really big downside when it comes to r-1234yf. That is the price. In most cases r-1234yf is ten times more expensive then r-134a. So, your thirty dollar recharge on r-134a may end up being close to three-hundred dollars on 1234yf. That is quite the difference and can result in a lot of angry consumers when they get their repair bill. The bad news here is that I have seen no sign of the 1234yf pricing dropping anytime soon either.

You Are Paying For Expertise

Ok folks, so the information that I am going to give you in our ‘Price Per Pound’ section is very nearly, if not exactly, the cost that your technician is paying for their R-1234yf refrigerant. What that means is that you can expect a markup. After all, the technician and the dealership need to make money as well. This is a specialized trade and requires trained expertise in order to succeed in. Thinking that you can do this yourself is never a good idea as there are a lot of intricacies that need to be accounted for. As an example, let’s go through and ask a few simple questions that a technician would either have to do or consider:

  • Do you know how to flush your system?
  • Do you know what refrigerants can be vented?
  • Are you 609 certified with the EPA to handle HFC refrigerants?
  • Do you know how to find, let alone fix, a refrigerant leak?

All of these questions and more are what you are paying your technician for. Remember that they need to make money too, but there is also a fine line between having profit and gouging. Reading this article, and reviewing the price per pound, will allow you to be educated and give you the power to negotiate the price of refrigerant.

Your AC Unit is a Closed System

Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System
Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System

Even before you bring your car into the dealership to look at the air conditioner you should be aware that air conditioners are what’s known as closed systems. What that means is that the refrigerant in your air conditioner moves back and forth between different cycles and it, in theory, never runs out or needs refrigerant refilled.

If you find that your unit is low on refrigerant or is completely out do NOT just refill your machine with a new refrigerant. I repeat do NOT do this. Your system does not need a top off. It does not need just a little bit more refrigerant to get by. No. If you are running out of refrigerant that means that somewhere in the refrigerant cycle there is a leak. Your unit is leaking refrigerant and will continue to leak refrigerant until a repair is made. If you dump more refrigerant into it without fixing the leak you are literally throwing money down the drain.

I like to think of it as a above ground pool. If you get a puncture in the pool lining water will leak out. Sure you can always add more water but it’s not fixing the problem. Adding more refrigerant doesn’t fix the problem either. It’s just prolong the inevitable and wasting money.

Purchase Restrictions

This isn’t as big of a problem when it comes to automotive application but it is still worth mentioning. You see back in January 1st of 2018 a new regulation was implemented by the Environmental Protection Agency. This regulation known as the, ‘Refrigerant Sales Restriction,’ aimed at preventing novices from purchasing HFC refrigerants such as R-410A, R-404A, R-134a and yes… R-1234yf.  These restrictions already existed on HCFC and CFC refrigerants but they were now moved over to HFC and HFO refrigerants as well. What this means is that you are no longer legally able to purchase R-1234yf unless you are 609 certified with the EPA. Now, there are a few slight exceptions to this such as:

  1. The first exception is that if you purchase small cans of refrigerant that are under two pounds of refrigerant or less. This works great for automotive applications as they only need a few pounds to recharge an entire system. But, this can be difficult when trying to recharge a larger system with only a pound of refrigerant at a time. A typical split-system air conditioner may take up to twelve pounds of refrigerant. So, you could technically do this yourself but you would have to find a source for the cans and it still not legal to tamper or tinker on an air conditioning unit if you are certified with the EPA.
  2. The other exception is providing the vendor you are buying from with an intent to resale form. What this means is that you state that you will NOT be using this refrigerant yourself but that you intend to resell it to another party. In this case the legal record keeping requirements would be passed onto you. So, if the supplier you bought from gets audited by the EPA their records will then point to you. The EPA will reach out to you and you better hope you either sold the product or are 609 certified!

If you do not meet the above exceptions and you try to purchase R-1234yf you will be asked for your 609 license number. If you cannot provide one then you will not be allowed to purchase. This was done to protect the environment. If R-1234yf is vented or leaked into the atmosphere it contributes to Global Warming. The restriction was put into place to prevent novices from playing around with the refrigerant and accidentally releasing it into the atmosphere.  There was talk at the beginning of 2019 that the Trump Administration would rescind these restrictions but so far there has been no follow-through on this matter. As the law is today you are not able to purchase this refrigerant.

The good news here is that this doesn’t affect the automotive market too much. Yes, there are larger cylinders of 1234yf available but there are also cans available. These cans can be purchased either online through websites like Amazon.com or at your local automotive parts retailer.

R-1234yf Price Per Pound

Alright folks so we’ve gotten past the need-to-know section and now we can begin to dive into to see the exact cost per pound. Let me paint a picture for you now. Let’s imagine it is the middle of summer and your car’s air conditioner has gone out. No cold-air is blowing through and you’re stumped. You drive the car into the dealership for a repair, but what can you expect? The first thing is that you will need to pay for a repair to fix whatever caused the malfunction. This could be a faulty hose, a bad compressor, a bad evaporator, and so on and so on. On top of this you will also have to pay for a full refrigerant recharge. But, what price is fair here?

Before I give you the price on R-1234yf I first want to give you a few tools that will allow you to determine the true cost of R-1234yf at any given time. You see, I am writing this article in November of 2019 and I can bet that by the time summer rolls around and you’re reading this article that the prices have changed. Refrigerant pricing is ever changing and you never truly know where it will be at. The good news is that if you check Ebay.com and Amazon.com you can begin to see where the market is at any given time. Yes, it’s really that simple folks.

When looking at these prices on Ebay and Amazon be sure to look at the ten pound cylinder pricing. That is going to be quite a bit cheaper then the cans and that is most likely what the dealer or repair shop you are at are buying. From my experience these dealerships will buy a pallet full of cylinders and use them throughout the season. This gives them a very aggressive cost within the market. Some smaller shops may only buy five or ten of these cylinders at a time, but they still get a rather aggressive cost.

Today, if we look at Ebay we can see that ten  pound cylinders are ranging from six-hundred and seven-hundred dollars per ten pound cylinder. For argument’s sake let’s take the highest dollar one at seven-hundred dollars. In order to get the price per pound let’s do some simple math:

$700/ 10 lb cylinder = $70.00 per pound.

There you have it folks, $70.00 for one pound of R-1234yf refrigerant. Now, please keep in mind that these prices CAN change. To give you a bit more help I have also included a feed from our Ebay partner below that shows you the current market price of R-1234yf:

Listings from eBay

CHEMOURS Dupont R-1234yf Opteon YF Auto Refrigerant HFO-1234yf 10LB Cylinder

$569.99
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 14:58:15 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $569.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Honeywell HFO-1234YF Refrigerant 10 lb Cylinder NEW, Sealed, Ships UPS ground

$602.00
End Date: Saturday Aug-1-2020 9:55:20 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $602.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Now each car is different and the amount of refrigerant that they need can be different as well. Some only require one pound and others upwards of eight to nine pounds. It is always best to check your owner’s manual or your dealership to see how much you need. In our example we’re going to call it three pounds of refrigerant to get a complete fill up of your vehicle.

3 pounds of refrigerant * $70.00 per pound = $210.00 for a complete fill up.

Conclusion

Alright folks, that should about cover it. I’ve gone through everything you should know when refilling your air conditioner as well at what price point to expect. One last thing I wanted to mention before closing this article is that you have to remember that there will be mark-up involved from your technician or HVAC company. The price that I gave you is going to be very close to their cost. So, while you may not get that $70.00 price per pound article it does give you a starting point for negotiations. Remember, that everything in this world is negotiable and if they quote you one-hundred and twenty-five dollars a pound then you do your best to get them down to ninety dollars a pound using this article as a point of reference.

Thanks for reading and I hope this article was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How Much Does It Cost?

It is a few days before Thanksgiving and the weather is quite cold outside here in Kansas City. I’m in my office sipping on some coffee and enjoying some time off. As I’m sitting here I have been thinking about refrigerant. Yes, yes, nothing quite says time off like refrigerant. Or, at least it does for me. You see these winter months is when I get quite a bit of time off and everything is a lot less hectic. Everything has slowed down and I have some time to catch my breath, relax, and plan for the next year.

Over the past five years or so we here at RefrigerantHQ have spent some time creating our ‘refrigerant price per pound’ articles. These have been some of most successful posts just because there just isn’t other information out there. If you look elsewhere you either won’t find anything on the price of refrigerants or you will find something that is highly inflated and is way above the marketplace. Now, I will say that more often then not our articles on this website are more technical and geared towards the HVAC or automotive technician but I always make time for these price per pound articles for my end-user readers as well. There is nothing worse then being gouged on the price of a product… and then not even knowing you were gouged in the first place!

In this article we’re going to give you an accurate price per pound on R-134a. But, before we get into that I first want to take some time and go over some air conditioning basics for your vehicle. If you’re not interested in this and you are just looking for the price then please scroll towards the bottom of the article and look for a section titled, ‘Price Per Pound.’ Otherwise, if you are interested then please read on.

Know This Before Purchasing

Let’s say your vehicle’s air conditioner is no longer working. You’ve tried everything you can think of. You even tried a few AC recharge kits and the air only stayed cool for a few days. It is clear that you need a repair… but what should you expect with this repair? Obviously, every dealer or repair shop is going to charge differently for their parts and labor but the below section will at least give you some basic knowledge on what to expect as you take your car into the shop.

R-1234yf VS R-134a

Something that a lot of folks may not have realized is that in recent years the refrigerant that automobiles are using has switched. Yes, that’s right. A lot of newer vehicles are no longer using R-134a. Instead they have switched over to a newer HFO refrigerant known as R-1234yf. In the United States this switch started to occur in 2015 and with each passing year the number of cars that are using 1234yf has increased. In the next few years it is predicted that nearly ninety percent of the market will be using 1234.

Earlier this year I did an article where I put together a list of all cars and what refrigerant they were using for their 2019/2020 model years. This list took quite a bit of time as I had to dig through instruction manuals for all of these different vehicles. I didn’t find every single car but I found the majority. At the end of the exercise I had found that nearly seventy percent of cars produced in 2019 within the United States are using r-1234yf. That is a huge number folks. This article can be found by clicking here.

There is a really big downside when it comes to r-1234yf. That is the price. In most cases r-1234yf is ten times more expensive then r-134a. So, your thirty dollar recharge on r-134a may end up being close to three-hundred dollars on 1234yf. That is quite the difference and can result in a lot of angry consumers when they get their repair bill. The bad news here is that I have seen no sign of the 1234yf pricing dropping anytime soon either.

You Are Paying For Expertise

Ok folks, so the information that I am going to give you in our ‘Price Per Pound’ section is very nearly, if not exactly, the cost that your technician is paying for their R-134a refrigerant. What that means is that you can expect a markup. After all, the technician and the dealership need to make money as well. This is a specialized trade and requires trained expertise in order to succeed in. Thinking that you can do this yourself is never a good idea as there are a lot of intricacies that need to be accounted for. As an example, let’s go through and ask a few simple questions that a technician would either have to do or consider:

  • Do you know how to flush your system?
  • Do you know what refrigerants can be vented?
  • Are you 609 certified with the EPA to handle HFC refrigerants?
  • Do you know how to find, let alone fix, a refrigerant leak?

All of these questions and more are what you are paying your technician for. Remember that they need to make money too, but there is also a fine line between having profit and gouging. Reading this article, and reviewing the price per pound, will allow you to be educated and give you the power to negotiate the price of refrigerant.

Your AC Unit is a Closed System

Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System
Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System

Even before you bring your car into the dealership to look at the air conditioner you should be aware that air conditioners are what’s known as closed systems. What that means is that the refrigerant in your air conditioner moves back and forth between different cycles and it, in theory, never runs out or needs refrigerant refilled.

If you find that your unit is low on refrigerant or is completely out do NOT just refill your machine with a new refrigerant. I repeat do NOT do this. Your system does not need a top off. It does not need just a little bit more refrigerant to get by. No. If you are running out of refrigerant that means that somewhere in the refrigerant cycle there is a leak. Your unit is leaking refrigerant and will continue to leak refrigerant until a repair is made. If you dump more refrigerant into it without fixing the leak you are literally throwing money down the drain.

I like to think of it as a above ground pool. If you get a puncture in the pool lining water will leak out. Sure you can always add more water but it’s not fixing the problem. Adding more refrigerant doesn’t fix the problem either. It’s just prolong the inevitable and wasting money.

Purchase Restrictions

This isn’t as big of a problem when it comes to automotive application but it is still worth mentioning. You see back in January 1st of 2018 a new regulation was implemented by the Environmental Protection Agency. This regulation known as the, ‘Refrigerant Sales Restriction,’ aimed at preventing novices from purchasing HFC refrigerants such as R-410A, R-404A, and yes… R-134a.  These restrictions already existed on HCFC and CFC refrigerants but they were now moved over to HFC refrigerants as well. What this means is that you are no longer legally able to purchase R-134a unless you are 609 certified with the EPA. Now, there are a few slight exceptions to this such as:

  1. The first exception is that if you purchase small cans of refrigerant that are under two pounds of refrigerant or less. This works great for automotive applications as they only need a few pounds to recharge an entire system. But, this can be difficult when trying to recharge a larger system with only a pound of refrigerant at a time. A typical split-system air conditioner may take up to twelve pounds of refrigerant. So, you could technically do this yourself but you would have to find a source for the cans and it still not legal to tamper or tinker on an air conditioning unit if you are certified with the EPA.
  2. The other exception is providing the vendor you are buying from with an intent to resale form. What this means is that you state that you will NOT be using this refrigerant yourself but that you intend to resell it to another party. In this case the legal record keeping requirements would be passed onto you. So, if the supplier you bought from gets audited by the EPA their records will then point to you. The EPA will reach out to you and you better hope you either sold the product or are 609 certified!

If you do not meet the above exceptions and you try to purchase R-134A you will be asked for your 609 license number. If you cannot provide one then you will not be allowed to purchase. This was done to protect the environment. If R-134a is vented or leaked into the atmosphere it contributes to Global Warming. The restriction was put into place to prevent novices from playing around with the refrigerant and accidentally releasing it into the atmosphere.  There was talk at the beginning of 2019 that the Trump Administration would rescind these restrictions but so far there has been no follow-through on this matter. As the law is today you are not able to purchase this refrigerant.

The good news here is that this doesn’t affect the automotive market too much. Yes, there was a time where a lot of folks were buying thirty pound cylinders of R-134a to have around. That can no longer be done, but you can still get the cans online at stores like Amazon or at any major automotive retailer.

R-134a Price Per Pound

Alright folks so we’ve gotten past the need-to-know section and now we can begin to dive into to see the exact cost per pound. Let me paint a picture for you now. Let’s imagine it is the middle of summer and your car’s air conditioner has gone out. No cold-air is blowing through and you’re stumped. You drive the car into the dealership for a repair, but what can you expect? The first thing is that you will need to pay for a repair to fix whatever caused the malfunction. This could be a faulty hose, a bad compressor, a bad evaporator, and so on and so on. On top of this you will also have to pay for a full refrigerant recharge. But, what price is fair here?

Before I give you the price on R-134a I first want to give you a few tools that will allow you to determine the true cost of R-134a at any given time. You see, I am writing this article in November of 2019 and I can bet that by the time summer rolls around and you’re reading this article that the prices have changed. Refrigerant pricing is ever changing and you never truly know where it will be at. The good news is that if you check Ebay.com and Amazon.com you can begin to see where the market is at any given time. Yes, it’s really that simple folks.

When looking at these prices on Ebay and Amazon be sure to look at the thirty pound cylinder pricing. That is going to be quite a bit cheaper then the cans and that is most likely what the dealer or repair shop you are at are buying. From my experience these dealerships will buy a pallet full of thirty pound cylinders and use them throughout the season. This gives them a very aggressive cost within the market.

Today, if we look at Ebay we can see that thirty pound cylinders are ranging from one-hundred and thirty to one-hundred and fifty dollars per thirty pound cylinder. For argument’s sake let’s take the highest dollar one at one-hundred and fifty dollars. In order to get the price per pound let’s do some simple math:

$150 / 30lb cylinder = $5.00 per pound.

There you have it folks, $5.00 for one pound of R-134a refrigerant. Now, please keep in mind that these prices CAN change. To give you a bit more help I have also included a feed from our Ebay partner below that shows you the current market price of R-134a:

Listings from eBay

R134A Refrigerant - R134A - 30lb Cylinder 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane NEW SEALED

$108.99
End Date: Sunday Aug-9-2020 13:25:35 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $108.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

R134A Refrigerant - R134A - 30lb Cylinder 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane NEW SEALED

$123.99
End Date: Friday Aug-7-2020 14:12:26 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $123.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

R134A, 134a refrigerant- 30lb Cylinder 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane AUTOMOTIVE

$123.99
End Date: Thursday Jul-16-2020 0:26:44 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $123.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Now each car is different and the amount of refrigerant that they need can be different as well. Some only require one pound and others upwards of eight to nine pounds. It is always best to check your owner’s manual or your dealership to see how much you need. In our example we’re going to call it three pounds of refrigerant to get a complete fill up of your vehicle.

3 pounds of refrigerant * $5.00 per pound = $15.00 for a complete fill up.

Conclusion

Alright folks, that should about cover it. I’ve gone through everything you should know when refilling your vehicle’s air conditioner as well at what price point to expect. One last thing I wanted to mention before closing this article is that you have to remember that there will be mark-up involved from your technician or HVAC company. The price that I gave you is going to be very close to their cost. So, while you may not get that $5.00 price per pound article it does give you a starting point for negotiations. Remember, that everything in this world is negotiable and if they quote you fifteen dollars a pound then you do your best to get them down to seven dollars a pound using this article as a point of reference.

Thanks for reading and I hope this article was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How Much Does It Cost?

Greetings ladies and gentlemen and welcome to RefrigerantHQ! It’s just a few days before Thanksgiving. The weather is quite cold outside and I am sitting in my office, sipping at a cup of coffee, and thinking about refrigerant. Yes, it seems that refrigerant is always on my mind, even during these colder winter months. In fact it is actually quite a bit easier to get work done during this time of year. With summer gone and spring quite a ways in the future everything slows down a bit and I have time to catch a breather, gather my thoughts, and write some articles.

Most of the time the articles on this site are more of a technical nature and cater towards HVAC technicians and contractors. However, today we will be doing something slightly different. You see over the past four years we here at RefrigerantHQ have published a series of articles that go into the exact cost that business owners can expect when paying for refrigerant. This was a problem that I recognized a while back. When a business owner receives a quote on refrigerant they have no idea if it’s a fair price or if they are being gouged. There were very little references out there so it made it nearly impossible to negotiate or price shop.

In this article we are going to give you the exact cost per pound on R-404A refrigerant. This will give you the knowledge on rather or not you are being priced fairly. It could be that you own a gas station that needs a refrigerator or freezer repaired. Or, perhaps you drive a refrigerated truck and need an accurate quote on 404A for a repair. Or, you are a store manager at the local grocery store and you’ve had and entire row of freezers stop working. Whatever your line of work or the situation is you will need an accurate quote on R-404A and to make sure it is at an accurate price and to have the problem resolved as soon as possible. Each hour or day that goes by is lost business.

Now, before I get into the price details I am going to spend some time covering some basic HVAC and refrigerant knowledge. I can be a bit long-winded at times so if you find that you just want to find the price per pound then I suggest scrolling through towards the bottom of this article and look for the section titled, ‘Price Per Pound.’ However, if you’d like to learn a bit then please continue reading.

Know This Before Purchasing

Before we get into the price per pound when it comes to R-404A refrigerant I like to take some time in this section and inform you of a few basic things about your 404A system. Now I’ve written similar articles for homeowners as well on 410A and R-22. In those articles I always tell the homeowner to check their machine and determine exactly what kind of refrigerant i handles. While it is not as important as a business owner to know the exact refrigerant you are using it is still a good to know. Checking the system to see what kind of refrigerant it uses is a relatively easy task and can be done by locating a white sticker on the outside of the unit. These stickers are typically found in the back room or ‘control room’ of the system. If you are unable to find this sticker it’s not the end of the world, just be sure ask the technician that you call out to service the unit what kind of refrigerant your system is using.

Purchase Restrictions

If you thought that you could repair and recharge your system yourself then you are mistaken. You see, there was a time when this was possible. I knew quite a few small business owners who bought their own cans or cylinders of R-404A. They then repaired and recharged their system. You could find these 404A cylinders online on Amazon and in a lot of big box stores like Home Depot or Lowes.

The problem with this now is that as of January 1st, 2018 you can no longer purchase R-404A unless you are section 608 certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. Purchasing has been locked down to only certified technicians. This new rule is known as the ‘Refrigerant Sales Restriction.’ These restrictions already existed on HCFC and CFC refrigerants but they were now moved over to HFC refrigerants as well. This included R-404A. What this means is that you are no longer legally able to purchase R-404A unless you are 608 certified with the EPA. Now, there are a few slight exceptions to this such as:

  1. Providing the vendor you are buying from with an intent to resale form. What this means is that you state that you will NOT be using this refrigerant yourself but that you intend to resell it to another party. In this case the legal record keeping requirements would be passed onto you. So, if the supplier you bought from gets audited by the EPA their records will then point to you. The EPA will reach out to you and you better hope you either sold the product or are 608 certified!
  2. The other exception is that if you purchase small cans of refrigerant that are under two pounds of refrigerant or less. This works great for automotive and other smaller applications but can be difficult when trying to recharge a larger system with only a few pounds of refrigerant at a time. You could technically do this yourself but you would have to find a source for the cans and it still not legal to tamper or tinker on an air conditioning unit if you are certified with the EPA.

If you do not meet the above exceptions and you try to purchase R-404A you will be asked for your 608 license number. If you cannot provide one then you will not be allowed to purchase. This was done to protect the environment. If R-404A is vented or leaked into the atmosphere it contributes to Global Warming. The restriction was put into place to prevent novices from playing around with the refrigerant and accidentally releasing it into the atmosphere.  There was talk at the beginning of 2019 that the Trump Administration would rescind these restrictions but so far there has been no follow-through on this matter. As the law is today you are not able to purchase this refrigerant.

You Are Paying For Expertise

Ok folks, so the information that I am going to give you in our ‘Price Per Pound’ section is very nearly, if not exactly, the cost that your contractor is paying for their R-22 refrigerant. What that means is that you can expect a markup. After all, the technician and the HVAC contractor need to make money as well. This is a specialized trade and requires trained expertise in order to succeed in. Thinking that you can do this yourself is never a good idea as there are a lot of intricacies that need to be accounted for. As an example, let’s go through and ask a few simple questions that a technician would either have to do or consider:

  • Do you know how to flush your system?
  • Do you know what refrigerants can be vented?
  • Do you know what the Superheat and Subcool are for R-22?
  • Are you 608 certified with the EPA to handle HCFC refrigerants?
  • Do you know how to find, let alone fix, a refrigerant leak?

All of these questions and more are what you are paying your contractor for. Remember that they need to make money too, but there is also a fine line between having profit and gouging. Reading this article, and reviewing the price per pound, will allow you to be educated and give you the power to negotiate the price of refrigerant.

Your AC Unit is a Closed System

Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System
Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System

Even before you have a contractor come to your home and look at your air conditioner you should be aware that air conditioners are what’s known as closed systems. What that means is that the refrigerant in your air conditioner moves back and forth between different cycles and it, in theory, never runs out or needs refrigerant refilled.

If you find that your unit is low on refrigerant or is completely out do NOT just refill your machine with a new refrigerant. I repeat do NOT do this. Your system does not need a top off. It does not need just a little bit more refrigerant to get by. No. If you are running out of refrigerant that means that somewhere in the refrigerant cycle there is a leak. Your unit is leaking refrigerant and will continue to leak refrigerant until a repair is made. If you dump more refrigerant into it without fixing the leak you are literally throwing money down the drain. Potentially a lot of money too if yours is an R-22 unit.

I like to think of it as a above ground pool. If you get a puncture in the pool lining water will leak out. Sure you can always add more water but it’s not fixing the problem. Adding more refrigerant doesn’t fix the problem either. It’s just prolong the inevitable and wasting money.

R-404A Price Per Pound

Ok ladies and gentlemen you’ve made it through the boring section of the article. Now we can focus on the real reason you came here. How much exactly is 404A refrigerant per pound? So, let’s envision a scenario. A few of your refrigerators at your gas station are no longer working. You call a service technician to come out and diagnose them. He finds that the compressor has failed and that there is cracking in some of the pipes as well. That means you need a new compressor, new pipes, and most likely a full recharge of 404A refrigerant as well. This is going to be an expensive repair bill.

Before I tell you the exact cost per pound on 404A I want to make you aware that the price will change. I am writing this article in late November and I guarantee that when you are reading this the price will have changed since then. Do not fret though, there is good news. There are a few tools out there that will allow you to find the price of 404A real time. It is relatively easy as well. All you have to do is visit Ebay.com or Amazon.com and check the going rate for 404A. By checking these sites you get an up-to-date price and know right around where you should be paying. I will say that Ebay is the most reliable out of the two. Amazon’s listings of 404A are rather spotty but Ebay always has them on there.

Looking at Ebay today we can see an average price range is one-hundred and ten to one-hundred and fifty dollars for a twenty-four pound cylinder of 404A. I more of a fan of aiming too high rather then too low so let’s take that one-hundred and fifty dollar maximum as our price. Now it is time to do some math:

$150 / 24lb cylinder = $6.25 per pound.

There you have it folks, $6.25 for one pound of R-404A refrigerant. Now, please keep in mind that as I said above these prices can change at any given time. To give you a bit more help I have also included a feed from our Ebay partner below that shows you the current market price of R-404A:

Listings from eBay

R404a Refrigerant 24lb Cylinder***** LOWEST PRICE ON EBAY ***** FACTORY SEALED

$144.00
End Date: Monday Jul-27-2020 5:59:11 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $144.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

R-404A - 404a - R404- R404a - Refrigerant 24 LB Cylinder - MADE IN USA

$144.00
End Date: Tuesday Jul-21-2020 11:42:46 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $144.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

(Q1)Cylinder R404a, R404, R-404, 404a Refrigerant *11lb* Full and Factory Sealed

$89.00
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 14:45:58 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $89.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Conclusion

Alright folks, that should about cover it. We’ve covered some need to know topics and also the exact price per pound on R-404A. One last thing I wanted to mention before closing this article is that you have to remember that there will be mark-up involved from your technician or HVAC company. The price that I gave you is going to be very close to their cost. So, while you may not get that $6.25 price per pound article it does give you a starting point for negotiations. Remember, that everything in this world is negotiable and if they quote you twenty-five dollars a pound then you do your best to get them down to ten dollars a pound using this article as a point of reference.

Thanks for reading and I hope this article was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How Much Does It Cost?

Greetings ladies and gentlemen! It’s just a few days before Thanksgiving. The weather is quite cold outside and I am sitting in my office, sipping at a cup of coffee, and thinking about refrigerant. Yes, it seems that refrigerant is always on my mind, even during these colder winter months. In fact it is actually quite a bit easier to get work done during this time of year. With summer gone and spring quite a ways in the future everything slows down a bit and I have time to catch a breather, gather my thoughts, and write some articles.

Most of the time the articles on this site are more of a technical nature and cater towards HVAC technicians and contractors. However, today we will be doing something slightly different. You see over the past four years we here at RefrigerantHQ have published a series of articles that go into the exact cost that homeowners can expect when paying for refrigerant. This was a problem that I recognized a while back. When a homeowner receives a quote on refrigerant they have no idea if it’s a fair price or if they are being gouged. There were very little references out there so it made it nearly impossible to negotiate or price shop.

In this article we are going to give you the exact cost per pound on R-410A refrigerant. This will give you the knowledge on rather or not you are being priced fairly. Now, before I get into the price details I am going to spend some time covering some basic HVAC and refrigerant knowledge. I can be a bit long-winded at times so if you find that you just want to find the price per pound then I suggest scrolling through towards the bottom of this article and look for the section titled, ‘Price Per Pound.’ However, if you’d like to learn a bit then please continue reading.

Know This Before Purchasing

Now before I get into the price per pound information you should first understand the R-410A market and your R-410A air conditioner a bit more. The first point of note is do you have an R-410A system? The only way you can be exactly sure is by looking at the outside section of your air conditioner. There should be a white sticker located somewhere on the machine. This sticker will indicate exactly what kind of refrigerant your split-system is taking. If you are in the United States then the chances are that it will be one of two refrigerants. If the unit was manufactured and installed before 2010 then the chances are high that it takes R-22. However, if the system was manufactured after 2010 then it most likely takes the HFC R-410A. Again, it is always best to check for the sticker to identify exactly what kind of refrigerant you are dealing with.

Purchase Restrictions

If you thought that you could repair and recharge your system yourself then you are mistaken. You see, there was a time when this was possible. I knew quite a few folks who bought their own cans or cylinders of R-410A. They then repair and recharged their system. You could find these 410A cylinders online on Amazon and in a lot of big box stores like Home Depot or Lowes. The problem with this now is that as of January 1st, 2018 you can no longer purchase R-410A unless you are section 608 certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. Purchasing has been locked down to only certified technicians. This new rule is known as the ‘Refrigerant Sales Restriction.’ These restrictions already existed on HCFC and CFC refrigerants but they were now moved over to HFC refrigerants as well. This included R-410A. What this means is that you are no longer legally able to purchase R-410A unless you are 608 certified with the EPA. Now, there are a few slight exceptions to this such as:

  1. Providing the vendor you are buying from with an intent to resale form. What this means is that you state that you will NOT be using this refrigerant yourself but that you intend to resell it to another party. In this case the legal record keeping requirements would be passed onto you. So, if the supplier you bought from gets audited by the EPA their records will then point to you. The EPA will reach out to you and you better hope you either sold the product or are 608 certified!
  2. The other exception is that if you purchase small cans of refrigerant that are under two pounds of refrigerant or less. This works great for automotive applications but can be difficult when trying to recharge your system with only a few pounds of refrigerant at a time. A typical split-system air conditioner may take up to twelve pounds of refrigerant. So, you could technically do this yourself but you would have to find a source for the cans and it still not legal to tamper or tinker on an air conditioning unit if you are certified with the EPA.

If you do not meet the above exceptions and you try to purchase R-410A you will be asked for your 608 license number. If you cannot provide one then you will not be allowed to purchase. This was done to protect the environment. If R-410A is vented or leaked into the atmosphere it contributes to Global Warming. The restriction was put into place to prevent novices from playing around with the refrigerant and accidentally releasing it into the atmosphere.  There was talk at the beginning of 2019 that the Trump Administration would rescind these restrictions but so far there has been no follow-through on this matter. As the law is today you are not able to purchase this refrigerant.

You Are Paying For Expertise

Ok folks, so the information that I am going to give you in our ‘Price Per Pound’ section is very nearly, if not exactly, the cost that your contractor is paying for their R-22 refrigerant. What that means is that you can expect a markup. After all, the technician and the HVAC contractor need to make money as well. This is a specialized trade and requires trained expertise in order to succeed in. Thinking that you can do this yourself is never a good idea as there are a lot of intricacies that need to be accounted for. As an example, let’s go through and ask a few simple questions that a technician would either have to do or consider:

  • Do you know how to flush your system?
  • Do you know what refrigerants can be vented?
  • Do you know what the Superheat and Subcool are for R-22?
  • Are you 608 certified with the EPA to handle HCFC refrigerants?
  • Do you know how to find, let alone fix, a refrigerant leak?

All of these questions and more are what you are paying your contractor for. Remember that they need to make money too, but there is also a fine line between having profit and gouging. Reading this article, and reviewing the price per pound, will allow you to be educated and give you the power to negotiate the price of refrigerant.

Your AC Unit is a Closed System

Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System
Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System

Even before you have a contractor come to your home and look at your air conditioner you should be aware that air conditioners are what’s known as closed systems. What that means is that the refrigerant in your air conditioner moves back and forth between different cycles and it, in theory, never runs out or needs refrigerant refilled.

If you find that your unit is low on refrigerant or is completely out do NOT just refill your machine with a new refrigerant. I repeat do NOT do this. Your system does not need a top off. It does not need just a little bit more refrigerant to get by. No. If you are running out of refrigerant that means that somewhere in the refrigerant cycle there is a leak. Your unit is leaking refrigerant and will continue to leak refrigerant until a repair is made. If you dump more refrigerant into it without fixing the leak you are literally throwing money down the drain. Potentially a lot of money too if yours is an R-22 unit.

I like to think of it as a above ground pool. If you get a puncture in the pool lining water will leak out. Sure you can always add more water but it’s not fixing the problem. Adding more refrigerant doesn’t fix the problem either. It’s just prolong the inevitable and wasting money.

R-410A Price Per Pound

Alright folks so we’ve gotten through the precursor of this article. Now we can begin to look at the meat and potatoes. This is the reason you came to this article. Let’s say that for whatever reason your air conditioner is no longer working and your house is getting warmer. You call out a technician for a repair quote. Now in most cases when something goes wrong with your air conditioner the refrigerant will most likely leak out. Say for example one of the lines get a crack in the pipe. The refrigerant is going to leak through that pipe so not only do you have to replace the copper tubing but you also have to recharge your system with refrigerant. This is where it can get expensive. Just how much should you be paying for R-410A per pound?

The answer to this question is actually fairly simple. I will give you the exact cost per pound in just a but, but I also want to provide you with a few tools so that you can begin checking the prices yourself. I’m writing this article towards the end of November. There is no doubt in my mind that the market will change by the time you’re reading this in spring or summer. But, by using these tools you can still get a gauge for the market and an idea of how much you should be paying.

It is actually really simple too. All you have to do is visit sites like Ebay.com or Amazon.com and check the price of R-410A. Amazon may not always have a 410A listing but I can guarantee you that Ebay does. Let’s take a look at Ebay’s prices today. As of November 25th, 2019 I am seeing a price range of one-hundred and nine dollars to one-hundred and forty dollars on a twenty-five pound cylinder of 410A. To determine the price per pound let’s take a middle of the road number between those two prices. Let’s use one-hundred and twenty dollars. Now it’s time for some math:

$120 / 25lb cylinder = $4.80 per pound.

There you have it folks, $4.80 for one pound of R-410A refrigerant. Now, please keep in mind that as I said above these prices can change at any given time. To give you a bit more help I have also included a feed from our Ebay partner below that shows you the current market price of R-410A.

Listings from eBay

R410a, R410a Refrigerant 25lb tank. New Factory Sealed Lowest on Ebay

$139.99
End Date: Wednesday Jul-29-2020 11:47:36 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $139.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

R410a R410 R-410 R-410A Refrigerant 25 lb 25lb Jug Cylinder VIRGIN SEALED

$134.99
End Date: Friday Aug-7-2020 14:11:46 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $134.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Ok, so now that we have the cost per pound of R-410A now let’s determine how many pounds that you need to recharge your air conditioner. Now the typical rule of thumb is between two to four pounds of refrigerant per ton of your air conditioner. (You should always check the exact specifications of your machine, but most of the time the two to four pound guideline will be sufficient.) Most home air conditioners are between one ton and five tons. (Anything over five tons is considered a commercial grade unit.) So, let’s get on with our math problem. Let’s pretend that you have a middle of the road three ton air conditioning unit that is on the fritz with no refrigerant in it. In order to refill your unit entirely you will need the following:

4 pounds of refrigerant * 3 ton unit = 12 pounds of refrigerant needed.

12 pounds of refrigerant times the $4.80 per pound number we came up with earlier = $57.60 for a completely fill up of your unit.

Conclusion

Alright folks, that should about cover it. I’ve gone through everything you should know when refilling your air conditioner as well at what price point to expect. One last thing I wanted to mention before closing this article is that you have to remember that there will be mark-up involved from your technician or HVAC company. The price that I gave you is going to be very close to their cost. So, while you may not get that $4.80 price per pound article it does give you a starting point for negotiations. Remember, that everything in this world is negotiable and if they quote you twenty-five dollars a pound then you do your best to get them down to ten dollars a pound using this article as a point of reference.

Thanks for reading and I hope this article was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How Much Does It Cost?

Greetings ladies and gentlemen. It is that time of year again. It’s just a few days before Thanksgiving and here I am sitting in my office having a nice cup of coffee and taking shelter from those thirty degree temperatures outside. As I sip my coffee I have begun to think about the various types refrigerants and what we can expect from each one in 2020. Yes, I’ve always got refrigerant on the mind and today is no different. You see, that is what we do here at RefrigerantHQ. Even during these cold winter months we are planning for the next season. In fact, it’s actually easier to get a lot of writing and preparation done in the winter as the demand is gone and it gives us a little bit of time to rest and gather our thoughts.

While most of our articles are more of a technical nature designed for HVAC technicians, this article is orientated towards homeowners. Over the past four years RefrigerantHQ has published a series of articles right around this time. Each of these articles goes into exactly how much you can expect to pay per pound on a specific refrigerant. Unfortunately, a refrigerant recharge is one of the most overcharged services out there. It is this way due to one simple fact: Homeowners have no idea what a refrigerant’s price per pound is. It is an unknown concept with no real point of reference.

This is where we come in folks. In this article, and the other articles I published today, we will be diving deep into exactly how much each refrigerant is per pound. So, say your air conditioner needs a repair and a refrigerant recharge. Once you know how many pounds you require you can do the math based on the numbers in this article. However, before I get further into this article I do want to give you a warning that I can be rather long winded at times. While this is all good information about your air conditioner and how it works… if you find yourself just wanting to know the price of the refrigerant then you should scroll down to the bottom of the article and look for a section titled, “Price Per Pound.” This is where you will find the pricing details.

 Know This Before You Purchase

Now before I get into the price per pound information you should first understand the R-22 market and your R-22 air conditioner a bit more. The first point of note is do you have an R-22 system? The only way you can be exactly sure is by looking at the outside section of your air conditioner. There should be a white sticker located somewhere on the machine. This sticker will indicate exactly what kind of refrigerant your split-system is taking. If you are in the United States then the chances are that it will be one of two refrigerants. If the unit was manufactured and installed before 2010 then the chances are high that it takes R-22. However, if the system was manufactured after 2010 then it most likely takes the HFC R-410A. Again, it is always best to check for the sticker to identify exactly what kind of refrigerant you are dealing with.

R-22 Phase-Out

You may have noticed from my section above that the year 2010 is significant when it comes to R-22. Well folks, that is because there was a mandatory phase-down implemented by the Environmental Protection Agency that started in 2010. You see, as of January 1st, 2010 no new R-22 machines could be manufactured or imported into the new United States. (This excludes ‘dry systems’ which could be manufactured as long as they didn’t contain R-22.) At the time of this phase-down nearly every home and office air conditioner in the country was using the HCFC R-22. Yes, there were some exceptions here and there… but for the most part the country ran on R-22.

The phase-down was put in place due to the damage that R-22 caused to the Ozone layer. R-22 contained the chemical known as chlorine and when R-22 was leaked or vented into the atmosphere that chlorine made it’s way up to the Stratosphere and eventually into the Ozone. The chlorine would then eat away at the Ozone layer causing damage and the eventual formation of a hole above the arctic. As most of you know, back in the 1980’s a treaty was signed by over one-hundred countries known as the Montreal Protocol. This treaty aimed at phasing out Ozone damaging substances around the globe. The first to go was the refrigerant known as R-12. There were other phase-outs over the years but the last one, which started in 2010, is R-22.

The phase-down from the EPA was a staggered approach. There was a production and import limit installed in 2010 and then there was another one in 2015. The last one, which is coming up here in just a few weeks is January 1st, 2020. When that date hits R-22 will no longer be able to be produced or imported within the United States. The only way to get your hands on R-22 refrigerant from then on is either through stockpiles of refrigerant that distributors bought up on before the phase-out, by using reclaimed R-22, or by using an R-22 alternative product.

R-22 Pricing Variables

Starting in 2010, when the phase-down began, the pricing of R-22 has been anything but consistent. In some cases it can change wildly from month to month. There are a number of reasons for this but there are a few main drivers that cause the price to go haywire. The first is the basic concept of supply and demand. The more supply out there then the less the price will be. The more demand the higher the price. The other reason is speculation. This is a common term when people discuss the price of oil. Speculators drive the price up or drive the price down. These speculators are folks trying to make a profit based on the rising and falling tide of oil prices.

For those not in the industry I like to compare refrigerant pricing to that of oil. You always hear of oil prices changing day to day. You always hear of speculators and supply/demand issues. Refrigerant is the same way. Since the phase-down started in 2010 we have seen R-22 prices go from a high of twenty-five dollars a pound all the way to nine dollars a pound. That twenty-five dollars per pound was the highest price point that I have seen and that occurred in the summer of 2017. The reason this got so high is that everyone was buying as much R-22 as they could in preparation for the upcoming 2020 phase-out. Because everyone had the same idea of buying up early the price continued to rise and rise.

A lot of folks thought that the price would stabilize at that twenty-five dollar mark. Others thought it would go even higher. Many companies bought up thousands or millions of dollars worth of R-22 in anticipation of an even higher price. Well folks, the inverse happened. After the summer season in 2017 the price on R-22 started to drop. And drop it did. Over the past few years R-22 has been the lowest it’s been in years. Throughout the summer of 2019 R-22 was pricing around ten dollars a pound. In some cases, like right now, it’s around nine dollars a pound.

No one knows for sure what will happen to the pricing when January 1st, 2020 arrives but a lot of the articles I have read predict more of the same. That same price of around nine or ten dollars a pound. This is due to the overwhelming amount of stock-piles out there still.

Age of your R-22 Unit

Before you consider repairing your R-22 system you should ask yourself a few questions. The first is exactly how old is your air conditioner? Is it over fifteen years? If so, then it may be time to look at purchasing an entirely new system that uses the newer refrigerant known as HFC R-410A. I say this for a couple of reasons. The first is that most air conditioners last between fifteen to twenty years. Once you hit that fifteen year mark you are also going to start running into repairs. It could be that your compressor goes out, a capacitor is blown, or a whole host of other reasons.

Whatever happened, your air conditioner isn’t cooling and you need a repair. If the price on R-22 is on a higher upswing then you could risk paying a substantial amount just to repair your unit. Remember, that you have to pay for the repair AND the refrigerant as well. So, say your compressor needs replaced. That could be a two to three-hundred dollar repair. Factor in the refrigerant recharge of about twelve pounds of refrigerant at twenty dollars a pound then you’re looking at a repair bill of around five-hundred and forty dollars.

The question that you will have to answer is are you ok with paying that repair bill? Remember, that your unit is older and with each passing season you are going to have more and more repairs come up. The alternative is spending three-thousand or so and get a brand new 410A air conditioner. While this is a big expense upfront it does prevent you from having a future headache of yearly repair bills.

R-22 Alternatives & Reclaim

Continuing on with the above section if you find that the cost to purchase and install a whole new system at your home or office is too expensive then there are some other options available. If the price of R-22 is high during next year’s summer and you’re looking at possible twenty or twenty-five dollars a pound then there are some alternative choices. The first is what’s known as reclaimed refrigerant. Reclaimed refrigerant is R-22 refrigerant that was used in another machine at one point in time. The used refrigerant is extracted from that machine, put in a recovery cylinder, and then sent to an EPA certified reclaimer. The reclaimer removes any impurities or containment from the used refrigerant. When they are complete the refrigerant is clean and able to be used again.

Many technicians frown on the use of reclaimed refrigerants. I’m not exactly sure why this is as these reclaimers have to go through a rigorous inspection process by the EPA. These guys know what they are doing. The only reason I can see for the skepticism is similar to when you take your car to the dealership. The dealership will ask you if you want new or remanufactured parts. Most folks buy new as they’re not comfortable with a remanufactured. I’ve never had a problem with buying reman/reclaim but that decision will have to be up to you. There is savings involved so that could perhaps be your deciding factor.

Along with reclaimed refrigerants there are a number of alternative refrigerants to R-22. At this time I believe there are over one-hundred different alternatives out there from all different companies and manufacturers. Each alternative is different as well. Some of these products may require very little retro-fit to get the alternative refrigerant to work in your R-22 based system. Others will require a complete overhaul on your machine to get it to work with an R-22 alternative.

Alternative refrigerants are cheaper… as long as R-22 is at or above eleven dollars per pound. If it is lower then that, like it is today, then alternatives won’t do you much good. After all, why pay for an alternative product if you can get the real thing at the same price… or even at a cheaper price? However, if you see R-22 prices going up and up again then alternatives are a great choice for those of you who don’t want to purchase a whole new system.

You Are Paying For Expertise

Ok folks, so the information that I am going to give you in our ‘Price Per Pound’ section is very nearly, if not exactly, the cost that your contractor is paying for their R-22 refrigerant. What that means is that you can expect a markup. After all, the technician and the HVAC contractor need to make money as well. This is a specialized trade and requires trained expertise in order to succeed in. Thinking that you can do this yourself is never a good idea as there are a lot of intricacies that need to be accounted for. As an example, let’s go through and ask a few simple questions that a technician would either have to do or consider:

    • Do you know how to flush your system?
    • Do you know what refrigerants can be vented?
    • Do you know what the Superheat and Subcool are for R-22?
    • Are you 608 certified with the EPA to handle HCFC refrigerants?
    • Do you know how to find, let alone fix, a refrigerant leak?

All of these questions and more are what you are paying your contractor for. Remember that they need to make money too, but there is also a fine line between having profit and gouging. Reading this article, and reviewing the price per pound, will allow you to be educated and give you the power to negotiate the price of refrigerant.

Your AC Unit is a Closed System

Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System
Refrigerant Cycle in a Closed System

Even before you have a contractor come to your home and look at your air conditioner you should be aware that air conditioners are what’s known as closed systems. What that means is that the refrigerant in your air conditioner moves back and forth between different cycles and it, in theory, never runs out or needs refrigerant refilled.

If you find that your unit is low on refrigerant or is completely out do NOT just refill your machine with a new refrigerant. I repeat do NOT do this. Your system does not need a top off. It does not need just a little bit more refrigerant to get by. No. If you are running out of refrigerant that means that somewhere in the refrigerant cycle there is a leak. Your unit is leaking refrigerant and will continue to leak refrigerant until a repair is made. If you dump more refrigerant into it without fixing the leak you are literally throwing money down the drain. Potentially a lot of money too if yours is an R-22 unit.

I like to think of it as a above ground pool. If you get a puncture in the pool lining water will leak out. Sure you can always add more water but it’s not fixing the problem. Adding more refrigerant doesn’t fix the problem either. It’s just prolong the inevitable and wasting money.

R-22 Price Per Pound

Alright folks so we’ve gotten through the precursor of this article. Now we can begin to look at the meat and potatoes. This is the reason you came to this article. Let’s say that for whatever reason your air conditioner is no longer working and your house is getting warmer. You call out a technician for a repair quote. Now in most cases when something goes wrong with your air conditioner the refrigerant will most likely leak out. Say for example one of the lines get a crack in the pipe. The refrigerant is going to leak through that pipe so not only do you have to replace the copper tubing but you also have to recharge your system with refrigerant. This is where it can get expensive. Just how much should you be paying for R-22 per pound?

Now, I could tell you the price today, which I will in a bit, but I will also give you kind of a cheat sheet that I like to use when gauging the R-22 market price. It’s so simple. All I do is just go to Ebay.com and search for R-22 cylinders. By doing this I can see what the going rate is per pound of R-22. As I write this article today I can see that R-22 is priced between three-hundred and seventy-five and four-hundred dollars a cylinder. Now, let’s do some simple math to get your price per pound. Let’s take the higher amount of four-hundred just to be safe.

$400 / 30lbs = $13.33 per pound.

There you have it folks, $13.33 for one pound of R-22 refrigerant. Now, please keep in mind that as I said above these prices can change at any given time. To give you a bit more help I have also included a feed from our Ebay partner below that shows you the current market price of R-22. (You used to be able to purchase on Amazon.com as well, but it has since been removed due to illegal online sales.)

Listings from eBay

R22 R-22 Refrigerant, 30Lb. Cylinder Virgin Spec., US Made.

$412.00
End Date: Thursday Jul-23-2020 9:04:38 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $412.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

R22 R-22 Refrigerant 30lb tank. Jug Cylinder Virgin Factory Sealed Same Day Ship

$422.99
End Date: Friday Aug-7-2020 14:10:32 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $422.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Ok, so now that we have the cost per pound of R-22 now let’s determine how many pounds that you need to recharge your air conditioner. Now the typical rule of thumb is between two to four pounds of refrigerant per ton of your air conditioner. (You should always check the exact specifications of your machine, but most of the time the two to four pound guideline will be sufficient.) Most home air conditioners are between one ton and five tons. (Anything over five tons is considered a commercial grade unit.) So, let’s get on with our math problem. Let’s pretend that you have a middle of the road three ton air conditioning unit that is on the fritz with no refrigerant in it. In order to refill your unit entirely you will need the following:

4 pounds of refrigerant * 3 ton unit = 12 pounds of refrigerant needed.

12 pounds of refrigerant times the $13.33 per pound number we came up with earlier = $159.96 for a completely fill up of your unit.

Conclusion

Alright folks, that should about cover it. I’ve gone through everything you should know when refilling your air conditioner as well at what price point to expect. One last thing I wanted to mention before closing this article is that you have to remember that there will be mark-up involved from your technician or HVAC company. The price that I gave you is going to be very close to their cost. So, while you may not get that $13.33 price per pound article it does give you a starting point for negotiations. Remember, that everything in this world is negotiable and if they quote you forty-five dollars a pound then you do your best to get them down to twenty-five dollars a pound using this article as a point of reference.

Thanks for reading and I hope this article was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

R-134a Refrigerant

One of my most visited articles this year was on the topic of the Environmental Protection Agency’s proposed phase down and eventual phase out of the HFC R-134a. This article is a few years old now and it was referencing the EPA’s SNAP Rule 20 and 21. These rules, which were issued in 2015, stated that R-134a would no longer be acceptable for use in new 2021 model year vehicles.

When I wrote that article everyone was under the impression that this phase out would come to fruition and auto-makers would be forced to switch away from R-134a just as they had done in the 90’s with R-12. There was very little debate on it, it was just the next logical step. However, the winds of politics changed a few years after the EPA announced their new regulations.

In the summer of 2017 a federal court overturned the EPA’s regulations stating that they had overstepped their authority. The argument was that the EPA was using authority granted to them by the Clean Air Act and the Montreal Protocol. Both of these refer to Ozone damage done by products that contain chlorine. Since HFCs contain no chlorine and do not harm the Ozone the EPA does not have authority to phase them out. HFCs do harm the environment, just not in the specific way that these documents lay out. It may have been a loophole, but the law is the law.

This was a surprise to a lot of folks and it caught many companies off guard. I know that courts are supposed to be impartial when it comes to politics but I find it an odd coincidence that a short while after Trump is elected we see this significant overturn in government policy. The court’s ruling voided the EPA’s SNAP Rule 20 and 21 regulations including the one on R-134a. So, as of 2017 there is NOT a scheduled phase out date for R-134a. When I initially heard about this ruling I had assumed automakers would take the easy route and continue the status quo with R-134a.

I was wrong. Over the years more and more makes and models are switching their new vehicles away from R-134a and over to the HFO 1234yf. Earlier this year I wrote an article that attempted to gather a listing of ALL manufactured cars and what refrigerant they are using for their 2020 models. This article took quite a bit of time as I had to dig through instruction manuals for each of these vehicles in an effort to determine the refrigerant they used. The article can be found by clicking here.

The results were rather astounding. If you look at the top fifty selling cars within the United States there are only fifteen using R-134a. That is a seventy percent market share and those numbers are growing with each passing year. Over the next few years there is a prediction that up to ninety percent of cars will be using 1234yf. There are a few reasons for this but in my opinion one of the biggest is that the European Union and other countries have already begun phasing out R-134a. The EU is using R-1234yf and R-744 in their newer vehicles. Perhaps, in an effort of engineering simplification these auto-makers have decided to bite the bullet and switch to 1234yf.

The other major reason for this is pressure from state and environmental groups. While the Federal Government doesn’t have a phase out plan for R-134a there are many states that do. These states makeup what’s known as the Climate Alliance. While not all of these states have announced an HFC phase out plan a good portion of them have. Some of the largest are California, New York, and Washington State. These states can have enormous sway with auto-makers. Just imagine if Ford could no longer sell their trucks in California or New York. That would be a huge impact. Why not make ALL of their vehicles compatible and just use 1234yf?

Conclusion

So, instead of the phase out that occurred with R-12 we have seen a phase out occur due to attrition. Over time the amount of cars using R-134a is going to shrink and shrink. Yes, it may take another ten years or so to get most of the R-134a vehicles off the streets but, in essence, the phase out has already begun. With all of the twists and turns the R-134a phase out has had it is somewhat ironic that we may hit the ninety percent 1234yf usage by the year 2021. While we may have not met the EPA’s goal entirely we are going to be darn close.

Before I close this article I did want to bring up one additional point. This is a question that I’ve had in the back of my mind when it comes to 1234yf. You see, I work in the heavy duty trucking industry. Think over-the-road trucks, dump trucks, water trucks, etc. Through all of this talk on phasing out R-134a for automotive vehicles I have seen very little, or in some cases nothing, when it comes to R-134a usage in truck classes six, seven, and eight.

I have seen the amount of R-134a a single truck dealership can go through in a year. The numbers can be staggering. The question I have is when will these truck OEMs begin to seriously look at 1234yf? Has Kenworth or Freightliner already begun looking? The only news stories I could find on it are three or more years old and reference the original EPA rule as gospel. If we’re going to phase out R-134a in automotive we have to phase it out in heavy-duty as well.

I wonder, when will these OEM behemoths make the move?

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

MIDEA MAD50C1ZWS, MAD50C1YWS, & MAD20C1ZWS Dehumidifier

Adding a dehumidifier to your home can solve a host of problems. It could be that you’ve noticed a damp or musty smell every time that you walk into your basement. Perhaps you have even seen some water droplets collecting on your basement windows, or worse yet, standing water on your basement floor. Or, in a less drastic scenario, maybe you have someone in your home who suffers with allergies or asthma. A house with too much humidity creates a breeding ground for dust mites, fungus, and mold. If left unchecked mold can begin to grow throughout your home including on your walls, floors, blankets, and even on your clothes. This mold, along with other allergens, can wreak havoc on someone who suffers with asthma.

Running a dehumidifier in your home can fix a lot of these issues. You see the best humidity for us is somewhere between forty to sixty percent. If you go to far under that forty percent number then you will end up with dry and cracking skin. On top of that, your house will become so dry that your lungs and respiratory tract will begin to dry out. This can lead to more susceptibility to sickness. On the inverse, when humidity is higher then sixty percent, then we run into the allergen problems we mentioned above.

Installing a dehumidifier will allow you to customize the humidity level within your room, basement, or home. Find what’s most comfortable for your and get cracking! The question now though is what dehumidifier should you purchase? There are so many choices nowadays it can be a bit overwhelming. In this article we are going to take an in-depth look at one of those choices. Today we are going to review the thirty, fifty, and seventy pint dehumidifier models from Midea. Are these the right ones for you? Let’s find out!

Sizing

First thing’s first folks. Before you purchase a dehumidifier you have to understand what size of product that you need. The main thing to understand is that you CAN get a dehumidifier that is too small for your home but you can NOT get a dehumidifier that is too large. This is different then say an air conditioner. With an air conditioner you need to get the sizing rather exact for the room or home you’re trying to cool. With a dehumidifier the rule of thumb is bigger is better, but you also want to be price conscious as well.

MIDEA MAD50C1ZWS, MAD50C1YWS, & MAD20C1ZWS Dehumidifier

  • MAD20C1ZWS – This is the thirty pint model. In other words, it can remove up to thirty pints of water within a twenty-four hour period. This is the smallest size and while it will work for a moderately damp area you will get better results if you move to the fifty pint. (If your area is a thousand square feet or under you can get away with the thirty pint without an issue.) This unit also works great for a small room or bathroom that you are looking to dehumidify.
  • MAD50C1YWS – This is the fifty pint model. In most cases this is going to cover your needs. Even if you have some moisture beading on your walls. This will dehumidify up to fifteen-hundred square feet as long as you don’t have actual standing water in your home. Again, this is great for your basement or large open area within your home or office.
  • MAD50C1ZWS – This is the seventy pint model. This is the biggest size of this model range and will be more then big enough to handle a two-thousand square feet area with standing water. Most folks recommend going a size larger then what you need when it comes to dehumidifiers. Your machine won’t work as hard and will last longer.

I typically recommend that my readers purchase the larger size and I am going to do the same here… except more so. You see this dehumidifier’s price is quite a bit cheaper then other competing products. That means that a seventy pint with this model is going to be about the same price as a fifty pint of a different model. So, while you’re spending by getting a seventy pint you are also getting more then you normally would through other models out there. I hope that makes sense! I won’t get too much more into sizing requirements here, but if you’d like to read more then I suggest you click here to be taken to our dehumidifier sizing guide.

Product Features

We are now ready for the ‘meat and potatoes’ of my review. In this section we are going to take a look at all of the various features that comes with these three dehumidifiers. Before I get started you should know that most of these features are pretty standard on other dehumidifiers. I did not see anything unique that stuck out to me on these units, but the main selling area is the price point. It is significantly cheaper then other models out there.

All three of these units come with a digitally displayed humidity level. An image of this control panel, with the humidity display, is shown further on in this article. These controls will allow you to adjust the humidity in the room to your liking. It can range from thirty-five percent to eighty-five percent. The product can work within temperatures ranging from forty-one to ninety-five degrees.

A cool feature on this unit is the auto-defrost setting. For those of you who do not know, a dehumidifier works exactly like an air conditioner does. And, just like an air conditioner, a dehumidifier can occasionally accumulate frost or ice on it’s evaporator coils. When this happens the appliance is no longer able to function as intended. Well folks this unit from Inofia has an auto-defrost feature. When frost is detected the compressor and all other sections of the machine will turn off. This prevents any more ice from accumulating. The only thing that remains on is the fan. This fan will constantly be blowing against the ice which will cause it to melt. After the ice has melted the system will turn back on and begin dehumidifying again.

The next major feature to mention here is the water tank. All dehumidifiers come with a water tank… after all that water has to go somewhere, right? The thirty pint model comes with a 0.8 gallon water tank and the fifty or seventy pint model comes with a 1.6 gallon tank. If the tank is full of water then an indicator will flash on the control panel and the dehumidifier will shut-off to prevent any water from overflowing out of the machine and onto your floor. If the prospect of having to empty a bucket again and again doesn’t sound like too much fun there is also a drainage connector that will allow you to screw in a normal garden hose. This hose can then be routed to a nearby drain. This is the best feature if you want to set it and forget it as the dehumidifier will continue to run and drain the water as it goes. It should be noted though that this feature is gravity fed. So, you cannot drain to a sink or other place that is HIGHER then the dehumidifier. Most folks end up using the same drain that their central air conditioner uses in their basement.

These next features are smaller then the previously mentioned ones but they are still worth bringing to light. The first is that the fan on this dehumidifier has two settings. There is a low and a high setting. On the actual control panel you will see the high setting labeled as ‘Turbo.’ This is the same as high. When ‘Turbo’ is on the fan is set to high and when it is off the fan is set to low. Along with the fan settings these models also come with a timer feature. The timer can be set to so that the appliance will run up until the hour limit you determine has been reached. This range goes from zero up to twenty-four hours.

Also on the control panel is a reminder to clean the air filter on this dehumidifier. After so many hours the indicator will light up informing you that it needs to be cleaned. The filter can be easily removed by pulling outwards from the machine. Washing the filter is as easy as running clean water through it and then letting it dry. It is important to note that you should not run the dehumidifier without the filter in it.

The last few features are rather basic. There is a continuous operation option that allows for the dehumidifier to constantly be running. If you experience a power loss in your home the appliance has an auto-restart function. So, when your power comes back on the dehumidifier will start right back up where it left off. This is nice as it’s one less thing you have to remember to reset during a power outage. Lastly, these models come with four wheels to make transport easy. The product itself is rather light as it only comes in at around forty pounds so if you wanted to pick it up and carry it up or down stairs you shouldn’t have a problem.

Pros

First, I have to mention the price point on this product. I know I’ve already said this before but this product is aggressively priced when compared to other models. If you are looking to save a bit of money and not worried about having extra features then I would pick this product! The next pro is the warranty on this product. There is a full one year warranty policy. This is pretty standard for most dehumidifiers but there was something that did stick out to me.

This product is Energy Star certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. The Energy Star program is designed to evaluate various appliances and determine if they meet the EPA’s efficiency standards. An Energy Star appliances is on average about fifteen percent more efficient then a competing machine. What this means is that it will end up costing you less per month then a competing dehumidifier that is not Energy Start certified.

The next Pro is the overall sound of this appliance. This dehumidifier has a decibel rating of forty-nine.  That noise level is the equivalent of a hushed conversation within a library. That is quite a difference when compared to other dehumidifiers who range between fifty to sixty decibels. This unit would be great if you need a dehumidifier for your bedroom but you are also a light sleeper. Noise level is also one of the constant complaints that I see on other dehumidifier models. So, this is quite the Pro.MIDEA MAD50C1ZWS, MAD50C1YWS, & MAD20C1ZWS Dehumidifier2

Cons

During my research on these products I found two complaints. The first one was that the timer feature stopped working after a few months of use. While this isn’t a huge deal, it is a major feature that a lot of folks enjoy using. I could definitely see myself running the unit at night with a timer shut-off in the morning, but if the timer isn’t working then that obviously won’t happen. This other con that I saw a couple times was that the dehumidifier gets confused as to how full the bucket is. The bucket may only be twenty or thirty percent full but it thinks it has a full bucket so the unit shuts-off and will not start until it sees the bucket as empty. There are a couple choices here if this happens to you. You could either play around with it and see if you get it to read the bucket correctly. You could set up a hose for continuous drainage so you don’t have to use the bucket, or you could contact the manufacturer and file a warranty claim.

Another important point of note here is that if your unit arrives to your home upside down then do NOT start it right away. As I have mentioned earlier a dehumidifier works just like an air conditioner or a refrigerator does. I’m sure that you’ve heard of not turning a refrigerator upside down, right? Well, the same principle applies. You see if the unit arrives upside down then all of the oil has most likely drained out of the compressor. With no oil this will cause a premature failure and your unit will be useless. If it has arrived upside down then put it right side up and then LEAVE it for a few days. I’d say two to three. By then the oil will have drained back to where it should be and you shouldn’t have any issues down the road. A good portion of the ‘negative’ reviews on this product is strictly because of this problem. It can be avoided though simply by doing the above instructions.

Be sure to clean your dehumidifier often. Also do not let water sit in the tank for a large amount of time. While yes, the dehumidifier removes humidity from your home, it won’t do you any good if you leave it in your dehumidifier. If water is left in there or if you do not clean your unit regularly then you’ll end up mold growing on the inside of the unit. This defeats the entire purpose of having the dehumidifier as you now have your very own mold host! Be sure to clean your unit folks.

Conclusion

Alright folks, we’ve gone over every possible thing that I can think of when it comes to these dehumidifiers. We’ve reviewed all of the features, the Pros, the Cons, and everything in between. Is this the right unit for you? Well, that depends. Are you more of a price conscious consumer and not as worried about various features and options? If so, then this unit is for you. It will get the job done as well as save you some money versus some of the other models. If you’d like to purchase this product please click here to be taken to our Amazon partner’s product page.

On the other hand though, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers. We go into sizing requirements, what features to look for, and many other topics.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

What Is It?

A packaged terminal air conditioner, or PTAC, is a ductless, self-contained air conditioning unit that heats and cools contained areas. PTACs are used as a way to cut costs and increase energy efficiency in places like hotels, hospitals, senior residential facilities, apartments and residential add-ons like sunrooms. They are most commonly seen under the windows of many of the hotels and motels across the country. 

PTACs are available as electric heat or reverse cycle heat pumps. While PTAC dimensions are standardized at 42×16 inches, 36×15 inches, and 40×15 inches, they come in different cooling capacities ranging from 7,000 BTUs to 17,000 BTUs. They are made by many different manufacturers, including Amana, GE, Train, Friedrich and LG. 

How it works

PTACs can both heat and cool. To cool the air, PTACs use either traditional refrigerant or fresh air intake. PTACs use an evaporator coil that faces the room to be cooled and a condensing coil, which faces the outside. 

Using fresh air intake is comparable to opening a window. The PTAC pulls air directly from outside through the unit via a vent in the back. Some models also have a dehumidifier built in that removes moisture from the outside air. 

The most common method, however, is recirculating inside air through a refrigerant, which is also the most efficient method. The refrigerant cools the coil, which removes the heat and humidity of the air. The air is then released through the unit through fans and a vent. 

To control the air temperature on a PTAC unit, you have the option of using either controls on the PTAC itself or installing a wall thermostat. A wall thermostat opens up the possibility of installing a programmable controller with an energy management system and even WiFi compatible options. 

Energy management systems can be as simple as “smart” thermostats like Nest or as complicated as an integrated smart home system that can control lights, climate, appliances and electronics. These systems are designed to optimize energy use and interact with the power grid.  

All PTAC units have resistive electric heat. That involves wires that get hot and a fan that blows air across them — like a blow dryer. Many PTACs use only  resistive electric heat, but some also have a reverse cycle heat pump. 

A heat pump works similarly to a window unit air conditioner, except in reverse. It blows hot air into the building and cold air out the back by using a valve that changes the flow of the freon in the unit. Heat pumps draw 25-75% less wattage than other electric heat units. 

How a PTAC differs from a window unit

A PTAC differs from a window unit in efficiency and commercial components. A window unit hangs outside of a wall and has vents on the side of the casing. It cools the outside coil by drawing in air from the side vents, while a PTAC has solid sides. A PTAC is also mounted flush to the wall, so from the outside you can only see the grill. 

Most window units also don’t have heating capabilities. 

Cost savings

PTACs save money on power bills by only climate controlling the rooms you need to have heated or cooled. In a commercial application like a hotel or hospital, a giant heating and cooling system that controls the climate of the whole building is very expensive because it has to be on the entire time. 

With a PTAC unit, each unit is cooling only one room at a time. Additionally, each room can be set to a unique temperature, allowing occupants to stay comfortable based on their personal preference.

It’s not just commercial buildings that benefit. Homeowners often add PTAC units in areas of the house that are hard to cool, like lofts and attic spaces. Additions to houses, like sunrooms, are also great places for a PTAC. Using a PTAC in these spaces prevents homeowners from having to add new ductwork that’s connected to the existing HVAC system.

How to Get The Right Size PTAC for Your Room

A British Thermal Unit is a way to measure energy. The technical definition describes it as the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. For air conditioners, the BTUs tell how much energy it takes to remove the heat using the compressor system. 

The number of BTUs tells you how powerful your unit is and describes how much energy can be produced per hour. If a PTAC unit is labeled as 5,000 BTUs, it can produce 5,000 BTUs of energy per hour. 

If the BTU capacity of your PTAC is too small, your room won’t get adequately cooled. Inversely, if the BTU capacity is too large for the space, it will leave the room feeling damp and can lead to issues with mold. In addition, an oversized PTAC unit actually wastes energy.

Energy Star recommends a 5,000 BTU PTAC for a room between 100-150 square feet. For each 50 square foot increment, add 1,000 BTUs. 

  • If the room is heavily shaded, reduce capacity by 10 percent
  • If the room is very sunny, increase capacity by 10 percent
  • If more than two people regularly occupy the room, add 600 BTUs for each additional person
  • If it’s used in a kitchen, increase capacity by 4,000 BTUs
  • A second story room may need a 10 percent increase

Using a PTAC with a BTU level higher than what you need can cause the unit to cycle on and off too frequently. That can shorten the unit’s lifespan. If you get one that is too small, the unit will run almost continuously but never get the room to your desired temperature. 

Basic maintenance of a PTAC

Like HVAC units, PTACs should be cleaned once a year, typically before temperatures start to warm up. Unplug your PTAC prior to cleaning if you are working on anything inside the unit. Air filters should be cleaned with a vacuum or running water every 30 days to prevent them from getting clogged and restricting air flow. 

Preventative maintenance goes a long way in preserving the lifespan of your PTAC. Most units are designed to last 15 years, but many hotels swap them out every six to seven years because they aren’t maintaining them properly. 

The indoor coil, condenser coil and base pan can all be washed under low pressure, but this should be done by a professional, who will ensure that all debris and dust are cleaned out. A vacuum can also be used to suck up any dust or debris. 

The front cabinet can be cleaned with a mild cleaning agent to keep it clean and dust-free. 

About The Author

Author Name: Crystal Huskey
Bio: Crystal Huskey is a content writer at PTACUnits.com, an online distributor for PTAC units, along with a full range of parts and accessories.
Website Link: https://www.ptacunits.com/

Inofia GA2 30 Pints Dehumidifier

There are a variety of reasons as to why you would purchase a dehumidifier. It could be that you have an allergy or an asthma sufferer and you need clean air circulating throughout your home. It could be that you have noticed water collecting on the inside of your windows in certain rooms of your home. Or, it could be that you have noticed a damp or somewhat musty smell emanating from your basement.

If left unchecked excess humidity in your home can cause a host of problems. This could be something as simple as that mildewy smell that we mentioned above or it could something more sinister such as mold growing on your floor, walls, and blankets. You see folks, the ideal humidity for us is between forty to sixty percent. Anything below forty percent and our skin and even our respiratory tracts begin to dry out. This can lead to sickness and painful rashes. On the other end of the spectrum if the humidity is too high then you could run into standing water as well as allergens such as dust mites, fungus, and mold.

Adding a dehumidifier to your home is a great way to treat the symptoms of a higher humidity environment. It should be known though that a dehumidifier will only treat the symptoms and will not fix the issue. So, if you have reoccurring standing water in your basement or other room then you should look into correcting that as well. A dehumidifier will get rid of the dampness and prevent mold from taking hold but you will still need to identify and correct the cause of your humidity issue.

Whatever your reason for purchasing a dehumidifier there are a variety of choices that will have to be considered. That just seems how it is in today’s world. The problem with this is that folks don’t know what to pick. Which one is best? Which one is worth your time? In this article we’re going to take an in-depth look at one of these dehumidifiers: Inofia’s thirty pint dehumidifier. Is this the right unit for you? Let’s dive in and find out!

Inofia GA2 30 Pints Dehumidifier
Inofia GA2 30 Pints Dehumidifier

Sizing

First thing’s first folks. We need to determine if this unit is the right size for you. You see there are three main sizes of larger dehumidifiers. They come in thirty pints, fifty pints, and seventy pints. The pint sizing is a measurement on how much water these units can remove from a room during a twenty-four hour period. The Inofia dehumidifier comes in a thirty pint size. This is one of the smaller sized units.

There are two questions that you have to consider before your purchase. What is the square footage of the room you are wanting this appliance for? Secondly, how damp or wet is the room? If the room is just damp and has a musty smell and the room is under one-thousand square feet then this dehumidifier will work great for you.

However, if the room is larger or if the room is wet then you will need a larger unit like a fifty or seventy pint. A room is classified as wet if you notice water beading on the floors, walls, or windows. You could also see moisture seeping in at the edges of the room. In the extreme cases you may actually having standing water. In these cases it is best to go with a larger dehumidifier unit. The only con that there is when going with a larger unit is the price. I won’t get too much more into sizing requirements here, but if you’d like to read more then I suggest you click here to be taken to our dehumidifier sizing guide.

Product Features

Ok folks, now we can dive into all of the details on this product. First let’s look at the most important feature and that is the humidity control and setting. This unit from Inofia has a humidity range between thirty to eighty percent. It can be operated in rooms with a variety of temperatures ranging from forty-one degrees to ninety-five degrees Fahrenheit. The humidity can be adjusted by clicking in the ‘Setting’ button. Each click of the button will adjust the desired humidity in five percent increments. You will also be able to see the desired humidity level in the digital display as shown on the image within this article.

Along with the humidity settings there are a few other features we should take a look at. The first is the overall fan speed of the dehumidifier. This can be adjusted from high to low. Next is what’s known as the timer feature. This setting will allow you to set the unit to run for a specific amount of time and then shut-off. It’s a set it and forget it feature. With each click of the button you add an hour to the shut-off time. This can be stacked until you reach the limit of twenty-four hours. You are also able to see via an indicator light if the timer is on or not.

Another cool feature on this unit is the auto-defrost setting. For those of you who do not know, a dehumidifier works exactly like an air conditioner does. And, just like an air conditioner, a dehumidifier can occasionally accumulate frost or ice on it’s evaporator coils. When this happens the appliance is no longer able to function as intended. Well folks this unit from Inofia has an auto-defrost feature. When frost is detected the compressor and all other sections of the machine will turn off. This prevents any more ice from accumulating. The only thing that remains on is the fan. This fan will constantly be blowing against the ice which will cause it to melt. After the ice has melted the system will turn back on and begin dehumidifying again.

Inofia GA2 30 Pints Dehumidifier Control Panel

All dehumidifiers come with a water tank. After all, the water that they are removing from the room has to go somewhere, right? In the case of this unit it comes with a 1.8 liter water tank. This equates to about a 3.8 capacity. So, if this unit removes thirty pints a day then you’ll have to empty the bucket seven or eight times per day. This is also where a larger unit may come in handy… or you could go with the continuous drainage route. The continuous drainage is what I would recommend, but you have to realize that the hose is gravity fed only. That means that the target drainage area HAS to be lower then the dehumidifier itself. This will work great if you are using this in a garage or basement where there is a floor drain. If there is not a drain then you may have to get creative or stick with emptying the water tank a few times each day. The good news is that if you stick with just using the water tank there is a water tank full indicator on the machine and the appliance will shut-off automatically to prevent water from spilling onto your floor. If the tank is full a flashing light on the control panel will inform you.

This appliance does come with a filter that will have to be cleaned regularly during operation. The filter can be popped out and either cleaned with a vacuum or washed with warm water. This is an easy task that won’t take more then a few minutes. The unit itself is relatively light weight and can be easily transported around your home. It comes in at only twenty-five pounds and has a handle at the top of it for easy mobility.

Pros

I seem to always do this to myself, but I ended up doing it again. You see a lot of the Pros that I wanted to mention have already been mentioned above in our ‘Product Features,’ section. That being said, I am sure that I can find some more. First, let’s take a look at the warranty on this product. There is a full one year warranty policy. This is pretty standard for most dehumidifiers but there was something that did stick out to me. This unit comes with a sixty day money-back guarantee. So, if you are not satisfied after a month of use you can return the product and get a full refund. That’s quite the benefit and it also shows you how much they back their product.

The next Pro is the overall sound of this appliance. This dehumidifier has a decibel rating of forty-four.  That noise level is the equivalent of a hushed conversation within a library. That is quite a difference when compared to other dehumidifiers who range between fifty to sixty decibels. This unit would be great if you need a dehumidifier for your bedroom but you are also a light sleeper. Noise level is also one of the constant complaints that I see on other dehumidifier models. So, this is quite the Pro.

Cons

The biggest con that I can find on this unit is it’s overall size. Yes, this will get the job done for a smaller room but if you’re looking at dehumidifying an entire basement then this may not be the right unit for you. I always like to make the recommendation to go up that extra size. Yes, there is more money involved but you’re getting a nicer unit and it will resolve the humidity problem that you’re having that much faster. On top of that you’ll get a larger water tank and other extra features. But, if you’re just looking to use this unit in a small room then I would recommend it. You have to be the judge though. Do you think you need a larger unit, or will this one suffice?

Another important point of note here is that if your unit arrives to your home upside down then do NOT start it right away. As I have mentioned earlier a dehumidifier works just like an air conditioner or a refrigerator does. I’m sure that you’ve heard of not turning a refrigerator upside down, right? Well, the same principle applies. You see if the unit arrives upside down then all of the oil has most likely drained out of the compressor. With no oil this will cause a premature failure and your unit will be useless. If it has arrived upside down then put it right side up and then LEAVE it for a few days. I’d say two to three. By then the oil will have drained back to where it should be and you shouldn’t have any issues down the road. A good portion of the ‘negative’ reviews on this product is strictly because of this problem. It can be avoided though simply by doing the above instructions.

Be sure to clean your dehumidifier often. Also do not let water sit in the tank for a large amount of time. While yes, the dehumidifier removes humidity from your home, it won’t do you any good if you leave it in your dehumidifier. If water is left in there or if you do not clean your unit regularly then you’ll end up mold growing on the inside of the unit. This defeats the entire purpose of having the dehumidifier as you now have your very own mold host! Be sure to clean your unit folks.

Conclusion

Well folks we’ve gone through absolutely everything that I can think of when it comes to this product. We have looked at sizing requirements, all of the features, the pros, the cons, and everything else in between. The question now though is this the right dehumidifier for you?  Don’t just take my word on this product though folks. There are over five-hundred reviews on Amazon on this dehumidifier from Inofia. All of these review come together for an average rating of four and a half starts out of five. I am very confident that you’ll be happy with this product as long as it fits your sizing requirements. If you are looking to purchase this product please visit our Amazon partner by clicking here.

On the other hand though, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links:

Last week the United States Senate announced a bi-partisan bill that would give the Environmental Protection Agency the power to phase out HFC refrigerants over a fifteen year period. This bill is in response to the Trump Administration’s inaction on the Kigali Amendment. Back in 2016 the Obama Administration pledged their support of the Montreal Protocol amendment but when it came time for ratification the Trump Team sat on it and has not passed it to the Senate for review.

Over the past few years of there was a double blow to phasing out HFC refrigerants across the Untied States. Not only did Trump refuse to ratify the Kigali Amendment but we also saw the overturning of the EPA’s HFC phase down regulations. The EPA had planned a scheduled phase down and eventual phase out of popular HFC refrigerants such as R-404A and R-134a. This plan was announced back in 2015 but it was challenged in the courts by the MexiChem corporation.

The premise was that the EPA was using the Clean Air Act and the Montreal Protocol for their authority. The Clean Air Act was designed to phase out CFC and HCFC refrigerants due to the Chlorine that they contained. There was not a mention of HFC refrigerants in the law, only Chlorine Ozone damaging substances. The EPA’s SNAP Rule 20 was overturned by the courts and the proposed HFC phase down laws were erased.

The bill introduced last week is known as the American Innovation and Manufacturing Act. It was introduced by Democrat Senator Tom Carper of Delaware and Republican Senator John Kennedy of Louisiana. Fourteen other senators announced their support for the bill as well.

The bill itself aims at phasing down and eventually out HFC refrigerants over a fifteen period. The bill was written with the consultation of various industry experts so that a fair timeline could be established for businesses for the phase down.

Déjà Vu

I feel like this new bill is déjà vu. We’ve seen this before. In fact, back in February of 2018 a bill was introduced by the same two Senators with the exact same name. (Source) They even referenced the same job report and economic numbers as they did previously. With this new bill Senators are promising an addition of one-hundred and fifty-thousand jobs and thirty-nine billion dollars of growth for our economy.

I just don’t see it folks. First of all, this bill isn’t going anywhere. It’s going to die in the Senate. Even if it did get to the House and by some miracle they passed it then Trump would veto it and we would be back where we started. Secondly, I am very skeptical of those job numbers economic growth.

What are these jobs? Manufacturing and plant workers? HVAC installations and retrofits? Is there going to be that much more demand for these new refrigerants? If so, what is happening to the existing systems? Is this new economic growth number the result of business owners and home owners being forced to upgrade or retrofit their systems? If this is the case then I wouldn’t call a government mandated purchase ‘economic growth.’  Instead, it is forcing business owners into compliance and causing a burden, especially on small business owners. This ‘growth’ has to come from somewhere.

Don’t get me wrong folks, I am not entirely against phasing out HFC refrigerants… but I’m not a fan of the way they are selling this to the legislators and to the people. They already tried this once with the EPA through a loophole, they got caught, and now they are trying to push a bill through with false/hopeful promises. It’s left a bad taste in my mouth.

Getting back to the topic on hand though, I do not see this bill going anywhere. The only chance that there is to pass a full scale HFC phase down law is to wait until after the 2020 election and see what the new incoming Congress and President are like. If things stay the same then there will not be a Federal HFC phase down for quite a while within the United States.

Instead, we will be left with a spattering of States adopting their own HFC phase downs with each one being just a little bit different. If this trend continues I might have to get into consulting…

For more information on the bill check out our ‘Sources’ section below.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Sources:

 

Dehumidifiers are not an appliance that a lot of folks think about. Well, they don’t think about it until they have a problem. The same can be said for air conditioners or furnaces. No one gives them much thought until a problem occurs. While a problem with an air conditioner is obvious – your house getting warmer – a problem with humidity is sometimes not as obvious.  The good news is that there are early warning signs when it comes to high humidity in your home. These could include water droplets or beads forming on the inside of your windows in a specific room or rooms. It could be a damp or somewhat musty smell when you are in your basement. In some extreme cases you could even begin to see mold growing in certain areas.

You see if an area is left with too much humidity a large amount of allergens can begin to take root and grow. The ideal humidity for us is between forty to fifty percent. Anything lower then forty results in very dry skin and respiratory problems. Anything over sixty percent and you begin to get those allergen issues. To some it may be an inconvenience but to others, especially asthma sufferers, mold can have a significant impact on their quality of life.

Adding a dehumidifier to your basement, room, or entire home can help alleviate this excess humidity and get you back to that ideal range. Once the humidity has been stabilized and any possible mold has been removed you should notice a significant improvement in the quality of your air. In this article we’re going to take an in-depth look at the seventy pint ‘PuriCare’ dehumidifier from the LG Corporation. We’ll find out if this is the right unit for you or if you should be looking elsewhere.

LG

Now before I get into the actual details, Pros, and Cons of a product I always like to take some time and look at the company behind the product. After all, the manufacturing company can say a lot about the quality of the product. Brand names have power. Don’t believe me? Just ask Coca-Cola or Toyota. These names mean something to people when they hear them. While a dehumidifier brand may not mean anything to you I can assure you that the same differences can still apply.

LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 1.0
LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 1.0

I’m sure most of you have heard of the company LG before. But, if you haven’t then let’s do a quick introduction. LG is a South Korean company that can be traced all the way back to 1958 under the name of Goldstar. (Just after the Korean War!) In 1995 they reorganized and became the company we know today as LG Electronics. Today, LG is a huge multi-national company spanning multiple countries and employing over eighty-thousand people. Their income is in the billions. I like to think of them as the General Electric of South Korea.

While this product may not be American made I can assure you that the quality is second to none and you also get the LG Electronics company standing behind your purchase. As I said before LG is a huge company and companies do not get to be giants unless they are providing a quality service or product. I would have no problems recommending an LG product to my readers.

Sizing

In the next section we are going to take a look at all of the various product features that these dehumidifiers have. This can range from the various controls and customization all the way to the overall weight of the appliance. I try to cover everything I possibly can here so that you get a good picture of what you’re getting into.

First things first though, before we start talking about the various features this product has we need to determine if this is the right dehumidifier for you. This is a seventy pint unit. This is one of the larger sizes of dehumidifiers on the market today. Typically you’ll find them in thirty pint, fifty pint, and seventy pint. The seventy pint model is rated to work in rooms up to two-thousand square feet. This would be more then enough for an entire basement or floor of your home. It could also work in an office environment.

Now, while there isn’t a problem going bigger then you need with dehumidifiers you could end up saving yourself some money by buying a smaller appliance if you are only going to be using it for a room or two. On the other hand though, you should also keep in mind how humid or wet the room is. If there is standing water in the room then you are definitely going to want to get a seventy pint model. Even though it’s a small room your dehumidifier will have to work harder due to the excessive moisture.

Basically, it boils down to you do you want to save some money and go with a smaller sized unit? Or, would you rather invest a bit more and get something that will handle the problem no matter what?

Product Features

Ok, so now that we’ve got sizing understood let’s take a look at the various other features that this products has. When looking at features I first like to take an in-depth look at the display control panel. This is where all of your alerts and customization takes place.

When it comes to features available we find most of the standard options that you see with other dehumidifiers. These include a digital display that allows you to set your desired humidity level. The numbers can easily be changed by pressing up or down arrows that will allow you to set a range between thirty to eighty percent. (Remember that between fifty to sixty percent is ideal.) The adjustments are done in five percent increments. This unit will work in temperatures as low as forty-one degrees as well so you can end up using it throughout most of the year.

LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 2
LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 2

Along with the humidity controls you’re also able to set the fan speed to high or low.  There is a timer setting that will allow you to set the dehumidifier to run for a certain amount of time and then automatically shut-off. The time can be increased by one hour increments up to twelve hours. This is helpful if you’re not looking to run the appliance constantly. It’s a set and forget feature. There is an LED indicator that the timer is on as well so you know that you’ve set it correctly.

Dehumidifiers come with a drainage bucket. After all, that water they are removing from the room has to go somewhere, right? Well after some time of running that bucket will fill up with water and will have to be emptied eventually. There is an indicator on the control panel that tells you when the bucket needs emptied. There is also a shut-off on the dehumidifier to prevent it from overflowing the bucket with water and having it spill all over your floor. If you’re not a fan of constantly emptying water buckets there is a drainage hose that can be purchased as well. This hose, once installed, will constantly drain the water collected from the dehumidifier to a nearby drain. This works great if the dehumidifier is setup in your basement as your central air conditioner already has a drain for it’s excess water.

There is an auto-defrost indicator on the control panel as well. This is a good feature to have on the unit as there are instances where the evaporator coils inside the dehumidifier can freeze over and stop the machine from working. This is the same problem that can happen on air conditioners. (After all, air conditioners and dehumidifiers work the same way.) If ice or frost does begin to build on the coils inside your machine this auto-defrost feature will stop dehumidifier process and instead run the heater and fan to eventually melt the ice off of the coils. Once the ice is melted the machine will turn back on and start to work again.

Besides that, the last feature on this control panel, excluding the power button, is the clean filter alert. This isn’t necessarily a button, but an LED light will come up alerting you that you need to clean the filter of your machine. This light will come on after three-hundred and fifty hours of operation. You will need to remove the filter, clean, reinsert the filter, and then click on the ‘Filter Reset Button’ for three seconds to reset.

Lastly, these units come caster wheels that make for easy transportation. But, if for whatever reason you aren’t able to use the wheels these dehumidifiers aren’t that heavy. The largest seventy pint model comes in at only fifty pounds. Most of us should be able to move this around when we need to.

Pros

One feature that I like on this particular product is what’s known as the ‘Safety Standby.’ I’ve been reviewing and researching dehumidifiers like crazy the past couple weeks and this is the first time that I have come across this feature. Basically, it is a safety feature that prevents the appliance from overheating and causing a potential fire risk. What it does is if your dehumidifier has been running constantly for twenty-three hours the safety standby feature will turn the unit off for one hour. This one hour gap time gives the appliance a chance to cool down and prevent any overheating. Pretty clever, huh?

LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 3.0
LG High Efficiency PuriCare 70 3.0

This product is Energy Star certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. The Energy Star program is designed to evaluate various appliances and determine if they meet the EPA’s efficiency standards. An Energy Star appliances is on average about fifteen percent more efficient then a competing machine. What this means is that it will end up costing you less per month then a competing dehumidifier that is not Energy Start certified.

Along with the Energy Star rating you also get a one year full warranty from LG. Per their instruction manual:

“LG Electronics U.S.A., Inc. (“LG”) warrants your LG Dehumidifier (“product”) against defect in materials or workmanship under normal household use, during the warranty period set forth below, LG will, at its option, repair or replace the product.”

Cons

Every product, no matter who makes it, will have drawbacks. That’s just how it is. That being said, it was difficult to find specific cons on these products. Instead, nearly all of the complaints that I read through were towards the delivery of the product. Remember before how we stated that dehumidifiers are very similar to air conditioners and refrigerators? Well, just like with refrigerators you cannot turn or ship a dehumidifier upside down.

Just yesterday I was helping my father move a refrigerator and we were very careful not to tilt it too far. The reason for this is if the refrigerator or dehumidifier is upside down or tilted too far then the oil can drain out of the compressor. Without proper lubrication your compressor will fail and the compressor is by far one of the most important components of your air conditioner, refrigerator, or dehumidifier. Many folks have reported premature failures of their dehumidifiers… but this is most likely due to them turning on the product right away after it being upside down. If the product did arrive upside down then turn it right side up and then wait for quite a while, maybe even a day. Then, start your dehumidifier up and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It also may be best practice to wait a day or two before turning on your new dehumidifier. The product may come to your home right side up, but who is to know if it was like that earlier that day. Always better to be safe then sorry. The good news here though is that if your dehumidifier does end up not working after a few weeks or months Frigidaire offers a one year warranty. Through my research I had found cases where Frigidaire offered a complete replacement product. It’s good to know you’ll be protected here.

Cleaning

One of the main objectives of a dehumidifier is to lessen the possibility of mold growing within your home. But, what happens if the very thing that is supposed to be preventing the mold starts to grow mold itself? Well, this problem has happened to a lot of folks. Some may argue that this is a manufacturing defect and others would say that the consumers who had this problem didn’t take care of their dehumidifier in the first place.

A dehumidifier needs to be cleaned regularly. That means checking and cleaning the filter. The filter is located at the back of these machines as shown in our previous screenshot. Again, I couldn’t find this information to be one-hundred percent sure, but most of these dehumidifier filters come with what’s known as an anti-bacterial mesh. This mesh aims at preventing bacteria. If you attempt to clean the filter with water then you risk washing away this protective coating. Instead you should either try to shake it out or use a low powered vacuum with a hose attachment. This will clean the filter and still protect your coating. It’s not just the filter though that needs to be cleaned. Ensure that the machine itself is as clean as can be and if you began to suspect mold growing within it then take it apart and try to identify the culprit area. When dealing with water day in and day out there is always a chance that some could spill and get isolated within the machine only to stay there and become stagnant. This is a prime candidate for mold growth. This is why you need to stay vigilant and ensure the unit is as clean as it can be.

Conclusion

Well folks I believe we have covered absolutely everything that there is to cover when it comes to this dehumidifier. You have read through the product features, the pros, and even the cons. We can also view on Amazon.com that this product has a four out of five stars rating with over two-hundred reviews. I can assure you that with the research that I have put into this product that it would make a good addition to your home.

The question now though is this the right dehumidifier for you? If you are looking to purchase this product please visit our Amazon partner by clicking here. On the other hand though, if you find that you need to do additional reading or need a different dehumidifier entirely please check out our dehumidifier buyer’s guide by clicking here. This guide will take you through everything you would ever need to know about dehumidifiers.

Thanks for reading and I hope this review was helpful,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links

Dehumidifiers are a great appliance to add to your home during the spring and summer months. They give your home that extra level of comfort and make walking into your home after a long day that much more enjoyable.

A dehumidifier does just what it sounds like. It removes the humidity from your home and gets it back to an acceptable level. You see the best humidity range for us is between fifty to sixty percent. If you go under fifty percent in your home then you risk cracking skin, coughs, and other respiratory issues.

The inverse of this, if your humidity levels are over sixty percent, then you can have problems with allergens within your home. A high humidity environment is a prime growing environment for dust mites, fungi, and even mold. In some extreme cases the mold can begin to grow on your walls, floors, curtains, and even on your blankets or clothes.

Whether you are having humidity issues in your basement, a specific room in your home, or your entire house adding a dehumidifier will help resolve your problems. The question though is what kind of dehumidifier you should get? Which ones are worth your money and which ones are duds?

In this article we’re going to take an in-depth look at TOSOT’s dehumidifier products. I say products as this appliance comes in three different sizes. There is a thirty pint, a fifty pint, and a seventy pint option. (Don’t worry, we’ll also get into what size is right for you.)

TOSOT

Before I ever purchase a product, especially a higher dollar one, I do my research on not only the product but also on the company and the brand behind that product. Company name and brand can play a huge part in consumer confidence. For example, when people hear the name Toyota they think of quality. Yes, there are Toyotas out there that have issues but for the most part when people buy a Toyota they know that it is going to last a long time. The same can be said if you look to buy a car from a company that has a bad reputation. These thoughts, rather positive or negative, are taken into consideration when purchasing a car.

This same logic can be applied to dehumidifiers. Obviously, the decision of buying a dehumidifier pales in comparison to buying a car… but research should still be done to ensure you’re buying a good product. In the case of these dehumidifiers we know that they are made by a company named TOSOT.

TOSOT stands for Technology, Outstanding, Style, Originality and Trust. They have been producing small house hold appliances for over thirty years. They are owned by a Chinese parent company known as Gree Electric Appliances out of Zhuhai, China. Gree is the largest air conditioner and home appliance manufacturer in the world. TOSOT is a brand name that was first introduced in the early 2000’s.

TOSOT 30, 50, & 70 Pint Dehumidifier
TOSOT 30, 50, & 70 Pint Dehumidifier

Since this is a Chinese company the products are not manufactured here in the Untied States. The good news though is that the brand name has the Gree reputation behind it. If anyone can make a dehumidifier I would say the largest manufacturer in the world can do it!

Product Features

In this section we are going to take a look at all of the various product features that these dehumidifiers have. This can range from the various controls and customization all the way to the overall weight of the appliance. I try to cover everything I possibly can here so that you get a good picture of what you’re getting into.

First things first though, before we start talking about the various features this product has we need to determine if this is the right dehumidifier for you. This product comes in three different sizes. We have the thirty pint, the fifty pint, and the seventy pint. There is a method when choosing the right sized dehumidifier for your home, I’m going to give you the quick summary but if you want to read the full article feel free to click here.

    • GDN30AZ-A3EBA2C – This is the thirty pint model. In other words, it can remove up to thirty pints of water within a twenty-four hour period. This is the smallest size and while it will work for a moderately damp basement you will get better results if you move to the fifty pint. (If your basement is a thousand square feet or under you can get away with the thirty pint without an issue.) This unit also works great for a small room or bathroom that you are looking to dehumidify.
    • GDN50BA-A3EBA2B – This is the fifty pint model. In most cases this is going to cover your needs. Even if you have some moisture beading on your walls. This will dehumidify up to fifteen-hundred square feet as long as you don’t have actual standing water in your home. Again, this is great for your basement or large open area within your home or office.
    • GDN70BA-A3EBA2C – This is the seventy pint model. This is the biggest size of this model range and will be more then big enough to handle a two-thousand square feet area with standing water. Most folks recommend going a size larger then what you need when it comes to dehumidifiers. Your machine won’t work as hard and will last longer.
    • GDN70BA-A3EBA2D – I know that I said that there were only three models to choose from with this appliance… and there still is. There is an exception though. This model is the same as the seventy pint that we discussed earlier. The only difference here is that it comes with a built in pump that allows you to drain the water your dehumidifier retrieves in any direction with a proper hose.

Ok, so now that we’ve got sizing understood let’s take a look at the various other features that these products have. When looking at features I first like to take an in-depth look at the display control panel. This is where all of your alerts and customization takes place.

When it comes to features available we find most of the standard options that you see with other dehumidifiers. These include a digital display that allows you to set your desired humidity level. The numbers can easily be changed by pressing up or down arrows that will allow you to set a range between thirty-five to eighty-five percent. (Remember that between fifty to sixty percent is ideal.) These dehumidifiers will work within the temperature range of forty-one degrees to ninety degrees Fahrenheit.

Along with the humidity controls you’re also able to set the fan speed which to high, medium, or low.  There is a timer setting that will allow you to set the dehumidifier to run for two or four hours and then shut-off. This is helpful if you’re not looking to run the appliance constantly. It’s a set and forget feature. There is also the inverse of this that allows you to delay the start of the dehumidifier for two to four hours later.

TOSOT Dehumidifer Panel
TOSOT Dehumidifer Panel

Besides that, the last feature on this control panel, excluding the power button, is the clean filter alert. This isn’t necessarily a button, but a LED light will come up alerting you that you need to clean the filter of your machine.

Cleaning the filter is a relatively easy procedure. All you have to do is run it under warm water or a mild detergent. When done you can pop it right back into your dehumidifier and have it begin working again. Just make sure that the filter is dry before you insert it again.

All dehumidifiers have a drainage bucket. After all, the appliance is taking water out of your home and that water has to go somewhere, right? In the case of these appliances from TOSOT they can run continuously for up to five hours before the drainage bucket will need to be emptied. The bucket is easily emptied by just sliding it out and dumping it in a nearby bathtub or sink. The good news is that if you forget to empty it the machine will actually shut itself off in order to prevent an overflow.

If you find that you’re just not a fan of emptying the bucket again and again there is an easier way! This appliance comes with a drainage hole that will connect to your standard garden hose. You can then route this hose to a drain in the floor of your basement. This will cause the water to continuously drain and prevent the manual work of emptying the bucket again and again. Please note though that this drainage hose is gravity fed. So, you won’t be able to drain this to a sink if your dehumidifier is on the floor. (There is a pump option that will allow for this, but I’ll get into this later.)

A few more features folks and then we’ll get into the Pros and Cons section. Really quick, I did want to mention that this unit comes with an auto-defrost feature. For those of you who don’t know dehumidifiers work the same as air conditioners and air conditioners can sometimes accumulate frost on their evaporator coils. The same thing can happen with dehumidifiers. The good thing is that these models from TOSOT have an automatic defrost feature that will identify frost or ice when they build up and then take care of them. Speaking of automatic features, these units all comes with an automatic power restart function. So, if you lose power there is nothing to worry about as your dehumidifier will turn right back on once your power comes back.

Lastly, these units come caster wheels that make for easy transportation. But, if for whatever reason you aren’t able to use the wheels these dehumidifiers aren’t that heavy. The largest seventy pint model comes in at only fifty pounds. Most of us should be able to move this around when we need to.

Pros

Most of the Pros we covered in our product features section but I do have a few things to discuss here as well. The first is that you get three different sizes to choose from with these models. This will allow you to save money by not buying the largest option available. That being said, a lot of folks recommend purchasing a larger size then you would normally need. This ensures that your humidity problem is taken care of and that your dehumidifier is not being overworked. With these three models I would say that the fifty pint model is the best choice. It gives you a happy medium between the two and will most likely handle the demands of your home. If you do have a very large home then you should look at the seventy pint.

I mentioned this earlier in the Product Features section but this dehumidifier comes with something quite unique. Most dehumidifiers have the ability to drain through a gravity fed hose. The difference here with this TOSOT appliance is that it has an actual internal pump installed on the seventy pint model. This pump will allow you to drain the water at an upward angle. In other words, you could have your appliance on the ground in the basement and then have a hose connected and routed upwards to a nearby sink. This simple feature allows for a lot more versatility with your appliance. You’re not restricted by emptying the bucket time and time again or sending the water to a lower drainage area.

All three products are Energy Star certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. The Energy Star program is designed to evaluate various appliances and determine if they meet the EPA’s efficiency standards. An Energy Star appliances is on average about fifteen percent more efficient then a competing machine. Along with the Energy Star rating you also get a one year full warranty from the TOSOT/Gree manufacturer.

Cons

Every product, no matter who makes it, will have drawbacks. That’s just how it is. That being said, it was difficult to find specific cons on these products. Instead, nearly all of the complaints that I read through were towards the delivery of the product. Remember before how we stated that dehumidifiers are very similar to air conditioners and refrigerators? Well, just like with refrigerators you cannot turn or ship a dehumidifier upside down.

Just yesterday I was helping my father move a refrigerator and we were very careful not to tilt it too far. The reason for this is if the refrigerator or dehumidifier is upside down or tilted too far then the oil can drain out of the compressor. Without proper lubrication your compressor will fail and the compressor is by far one of the most important components of your air conditioner, refrigerator, or dehumidifier. Many folks have reported premature failures of their dehumidifiers… but this is most likely due to them turning on the product right away after it being upside down. If the product did arrive upside down then turn it right side up and then wait for quite a while, maybe even a day. Then, start your dehumidifier up and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It also may be best practice to wait a day or two before turning on your new dehumidifier. The product may come to your home right side up, but who is to know if it was like that earlier that day. Always better to be safe then sorry. The good news here though is that if your dehumidifier does end up not working after a few weeks or months Frigidaire offers a one year warranty. Through my research I had found cases where Frigidaire offered a complete replacement product. It’s good to know you’ll be protected here.

The last con I want to mention is that internal pump I was gloating about earlier. Remember that? Well folks with extra features comes extra risk. This seems to be the case here. There are quite a few reports of the pump not working as it should, or not working at all. The best reports I saw was that the pump only drains the tank until it reaches fifty percent volume. After that the water sits there stagnant until it exceeds that volume only to be drained again. The other complaint I got was that installing the hose to the pump can be difficult as the hole isn’t drilled all the way through. These folks recommended purchasing the seventy pint unit without the pump. I’ve read both accounts though and many folks say the pump is worth it. I’ll leave this decision up to you as it’s a tough call.

Conclusion

Alrighty folks, we made it through! We have covered everything on this product that I can fathom. If you are still looking for more information please check out our ‘Important Links,’ section below for the official instruction manual. If you are interested in purchasing this unit then please click here to be taken to our Amazon.com partner where you can have the product shipped right to your door.

Lastly, if you find that you have more questions or think you may need a different dehumidifier please visit our dehumidifiers buyer’s guide by clicking here.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Important Links:

Over the past few years the biggest concern when it came to refrigerants has been their Global Warming Potential. The higher the number the more damage that refrigerant could do to the environment. The Ozone problem has been fixed, more or less, due to the Montreal Protocol. In fact, just this month scientists announced that the Ozone hole is at the smallest it has ever been recorded. The problem today though is Global Warming or Climate Change. It seems that ALL of the popular HFC refrigerants used today have a GWP problem. Alternatives needed to be developed.

As we all know, there is no perfect refrigerant. There are always sacrifices that have to be made when selecting a refrigerant rather this be safety, environment, performance, or cost. Because of all of the press and news coverage that Climate Change has been receiving the world has been focused on reducing all of these refrigerants’ environmental impact. The smaller the GWP number the more friendly the refrigerant is to the environment.

The problem here is that the alternatives on the marketplace today that have a lower GWP number also come with a higher flammability rating. The HFCs that we all know and love today are mostly all rated as a ‘1’ on ASHRAE’s flammability scale. These refrigerants show no sign of flame propagation when tested in air at 21° Celsius (69.8° Fahrenheit) and 101 KPA. (14.6488 pounds of force per square inch.) These refrigerants are also non-toxic and are rated as an A1 on ASHRAE’s scale. They are very safe to technicians and to end-users.

The alternative refrigerants that are now being used in place of R-410A, R-404A, R-134a, and other HFCs are NOT rated as a ‘Class 1’ on the flammability scale. Depending on the refrigerant you will most likely see them rated as a ‘Class 2’ or a ‘Class 2L.’ These refrigerants are slightly flammable, or have a lower flammability rating. In some cases HFC alternatives, like Hydrocarbons, are rated as a ‘Class 3’ on the flammability rating scale. These refrigerants are in the higher flammability risk zone, some examples of them are R-290 Propane and R-600a Isobutane.

While some of these replacement refrigerants have been around for decades, others are being developed in laboratories as we speak. Honeywell and Chemours both have their own newer product lines known as Solstice and Opteon. These lines mainly focus on HFO refrigerants but also have some HFC releases as well. In both instances though these new refrigerants are classified as lower flammability. Some examples of these are the ever-popular automotive application known as R-1234yf and then Honeywell’s R-452B (Solstice L41y.)

In the past the United States has been hesitant to use refrigerants with flammability risk. Safety was the priority for us. If the choice was between environmental harm or worker/end-user safety we seemed to choose safety most of the time. This isn’t as true for the rest of the world. Countries in eastern Asia have been working with hydrocarbons and other flammable refrigerants for decades without any major issues. But, there is a lot more training and precautions that have to be taken in order to work on a propane system correctly.

The question that I have in my head, and what caused me to write this article today, is that is the United States ready to adopt these flammable refrigerants? I’m not just talking about in vending machines or super market coolers folks. No, are we ready to accept flammable refrigerants in a traditional home or office split system? R-32 is looking to do just that. Over in Europe and Asia it has become one of the leading refrigerant for split system applications and is widely seen as the replacement for R-410A. R-32 is rated as 2L, so it is only slightly flammable, but the risk is still there.

Looking at the Environmental Protection Agency’s SNAP approved refrigerants list I do see R-32 on there as an approved refrigerant for home and office air conditioning. The catch is that it has to be “for use in self-contained room air conditioning; see rule for detailed conditions.” (Source). So, the applications are still limited for now, but that may change in the near future. Mini-split R-32s have become quite popular as well. I believe it’s only a matter of time before we start seeing R-32 in split systems.

I am curious, what my readers think of this. Do any of you see problems with flammable refrigerants? What are your thoughts on the refrigerant pendulum swinging away from safety and over to environmental? Will you feel comfortable working on systems with these types of refrigerants? I’m anxious to hear your thoughts on the matter as all I see on the topic are others who have written articles. Please feel free to e-mail me your thoughts!

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Question

Excess moisture in your home, your basement, or in a specific room can cause a whole host of problems. These problems could be made much worse if you or someone in your family suffer from allergies or asthma. A moist environment can lead to the growth of dust mites, fungi, and mold. These allergens are not only unhealthy but can also lead to rather extreme symptoms including shortness of breath or difficulty breathing.

As far as if dehumidifiers are worth the money I first need you to answer a few questions for me. What is your reason for purchasing a dehumidifier? Is it that your basement has a somewhat damp or mildewy smell to it? If that is the ONLY reason that you wish to purchase a dehumidifier then I would say that you cold hold off for a while. It is not an emergency that you use a dehumidifier.

However, if in that same basement you are seeing signs of water droplets forming on the inside of the windows, or even on the walls, then you have a larger problem. That problem can be magnified if you have areas of standing water forming in your basement. This is prime territory for mold and other allergens to begin growing. Even if you aren’t necessarily allergic to these contagions it is definitely worth the money to invest in a dehumidifier. Mold can lead to a host of short term and long term health problems. So, while you may feel fine today you may experience long term affects after living in the residence for multiple years.

Spending a few hundred dollars on a dehumidifier may just be the solution for you. It resolves the moisture problem and prevents these allergens from taking hold. That being said though, keep in mind that dehumidifiers treat the symptoms and do not cure the disease. In other words, if you are routinely having standing water in your basement then there is most likely another issue for this water. It could be faulty windows, it could be your drainage line from your air conditioner is clogged, it could be a crack in your foundation. In my old house we had a small gap between the foundation and the frame of the house. This caused water to leak in during bad rain storms.

The point I’m making here though folks is that while a dehumidifier will get rid of your moisture and water problem it will not fix the overall problem. So, if you are getting water in your basement over and over again then I suggest you look further into that. You will still need a dehumidifier but you should also take the time to fix the overall problem.

If you don’t have the money to fix the problem though then I suggest you invest in a dehumidifier. It will at least put a stop to future allergens and give you time to figure out the real problem at hand. In order to understand why size and what type of dehumidifier you need please visit our  buyer’s guide by clicking here.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

 

Best

The basement is a key part in your home. It could be where all of your things are stored away. It could be a home gym. Perhaps you have it finished and use it as a recreational room. (We use it as a toy room for the kids) Whatever you use your basement for there is one thing that all homeowners fear and that is a wet or damp basement. A basement with an excess of moisture can cause a whole host of problems including damaging the finished walls or carpet to creating a breeding ground for allergens such as dust mites, fungus, and mold. If left unchecked these allergens and damage can get worse overtime. The effects can especially be felt if someone in your family has severe allergies or asthma. In some cases the mold growth can get so bad that it can begin to grow on the walls, floor, and even on blankets or clothes.

Adding a dehumidifier for your basement is a great way to minimize the moisture. Let me be clear though folks, a dehumidifier is not a cure all. If you are seeing excess water pooling in your basement again and again then you have a much larger problem that will need to be looked into. This could be a number of things including improper water drainage, faulty windows, cracks in your foundation, or other more severe issues. The purpose of a dehumidifier is to treat the symptoms but it is not a cure. All that being said, if you find your basement occasionally gets water in it or if you have a damp or musty smell upon entering it then a dehumidifier may be the right fit for you.

A dehumidifier does exactly what it sounds like. It removes the excess humidity from the room that you have it set in. Dehumidifiers are actually just very small air conditioners. They have the same components and more or less work the same way as well. They even contain refrigerant just like your air conditioner does. The only difference here is that the dehumidifier has a warming element before the air is pushed back out into your home. Have you ever noticed that in your basement next to your central air conditioner there is a drainage pipe that leads to an in-floor drain? This is the water being removed from the air by your air conditioner. Your dehumidifier works the exact same way.

What Dehumidifier do I Need?

After reading the above you may have decided that you do in fact need a dehumidifier. If you’re not sure take a walk around your basement. Look for any signs of water either on the windows, walls or floors. In most cases if there is excess humidity there will be water droplets forming on the inside of your windows. In other instances you may begin to see water form on the walls or some of the paint starting to bubble along the walls. If there are no signs of water anywhere then the next test is to use that nose of yours and see if you can notice a difference in smell from the main level of your home to the basement. Does the air in the basement smell stale? Perhaps mildewy? If so, this is a sign that you need a dehumidifier.

The problem in today’s world folks is that there are too many choices. Think about it. If you were to go buy a car today there are dozens of makes and models to choose from. This wide selection of choices can cause an overload and in most cases will cause us to get overwhelmed. The same can be said when it comes to choosing a dehumidifier for your home’s basement. There are dozens of choices out there, but which one is the best?

I am a big believer of the Good, Better, Best approach. This was taught to me years ago by a former supervisor. Basically, it removes the sheer amount of choice that we are faced with nowadays and presents the consumer with three simple choices. There is a Good, Better, and Best product recommended. Obviously, the good product is still a viable appliance that will get the job done but it is not the best of the best. Better is that next level up and Best of course is the top of the line model.

By giving the consumer a choice between these three they can then decide what type of product they want between the three choices. This makes the choice of buying a dehumidifier, or any other thing, a much easier process. In the next segment we will get into our recommended Good, Better, Best dehumidifiers. Before we do that though, I want to first spend some time on determining the right size of dehumidifier that you will need.

Sizing

Dehumidifier’s size are measured in pints. The larger the pint number the more powerful the machine is. The pint sizing is a measurement of how much water a dehumidifier can remove in a twenty-four hour period. There are two factors that need to be considered when selecting the pint size of your dehumidifier. The first is the square footage of the room or rooms that you are attempting to dehumidify. You will need to measure the overall square footage of the area that you need this appliance for. This can be done by simply multiplying the length and width of the room together. This will be your overall square footage.

These square footage measurements will aid you in picking a portable dehumidifier. However, if you are looking to dehumidify your entire home then you may look at a whole home dehumidifier. These units can actually be attached to your central air conditioner and be routed through your central duct work. While the cost may be expensive at first you will end up seeing monthly savings on your energy bill and a longer life from your central air conditioner due to the dehumidifier taking some of the work off of the AC. These whole system dehumidifiers can work on homes up to three-thousand square feet.

Before you purchase you should keep in mind that once you determine the minimum capacity you need for your room that you should always go up slightly. By going up in capacity, say from a twelve pint to a twenty pint, you are able to increase the overall efficiency of your dehumidifier. This is because the larger unit will not have to work as hard as a unit that was right at the minimum level. Also, while there are all different varying pint sizes required the most common dehumidifier sizes are twenty, thirty, and fifty pints.

When you have your square footage determined you next need to figure out how damp the room is that you are trying to dehumidify. There are a few different dampness ratings that we can assign to your room. Knowing these will allow us to guide you on what kind of dehumidifier to purchase.

  • Moderately Damp – When you enter the room you may notice that the air feels clammy or even damp. There may also be a musty odor when the weather is humid outside. This may be a lot of your basements. The recommend capacity for a moderately damp room is between ten to twenty-six pints, or between five to twelve liters.
  • Very Damp – When you enter this room you may notice that it always smells musty and the air feels clammy or damp. You may even notice damp spots on the floor, walls, or windows.  The recommend capacity for a very damp area is between twelve to thirty-two pints, or between five point seven to fifteen point one liters.
  • Wet – When you enter this room you may notice that it always smells musty and the air feels clammy or damp. You will also notice water beading on the floors, walls, windows, or elsewhere. You may also see moisture seeping at the edges of the room. The recommend capacity for a wet area is between fourteen to thirty-eight pints, or between six point six to eighteen liters.
  • Very Wet – When you enter this room you may notice that it always smells musty and the air feels clammy or damp. You will also notice water beading on the floors, walls, windows, or elsewhere. You may also see moisture seeping at the edges of the room. The difference here though between wet and very wet is that with the very wet section you will notice actual standing water on the floor. The recommend capacity for a very wet area is between sixteen to forty-four pints, or between seven point six to twenty point eight liters.

Our Recommended Products

Alright folks so now you should be fairly versed into what sized dehumidifier that you need. Now the question is what model do you purchase? Which one is the best of the best and which one is a budget model that will get the job done for you? This is where our ‘Good, Better, and Best,’ approach will come in handy. The three products below we have weighed against the others on the market and determined these are the top in their class.

Now keep in mind that this article is focused on specific dehumidifiers for your basement. We are not looking at or recommending smaller dehumidifiers that are meant for bathrooms or other applications. There are many of these types of models out there but they will not have the power needed to fix humidity problems in your basement. Ok, with all that out of the way let’s take a look at our product picks:

Good: hOmeLabs 22 Pint Dehumidifier

hOmeLabs 70 Pint Portable Dehumidifier

BUY NOW

First on our list and in the ‘Good’ category is the twenty-two pint dehumidifier from hOmeLabs. This is our price point model and will work in open rooms up to fifteen-hundred square feet. In most cases this will handle the size of most basements. Consideration does have to be made though if you are experiencing a lot of moisture issues in your basement.

Remember earlier in the sizing section we stated that you would need more power if there is routinely standing water in the area? Well, this is what I meant. A twenty-two pint will get the job done if you’re trying to get rid of that musty smell or other minor problems but if you are needing something more then I recommend you move on to the ‘Better’ section of this article.

The good news here though is that this ‘Good’ selection is under two-hundred dollars on Amazon as I write this article. (Prices can change at any time.) The other models will end up costing you more but will grant you more power. Ultimately, the choice is yours but if it were me I would choose the ‘Better’ section as you get more power and longevity out of the product. Yes, you’ll pay more upfront but I believe it’s worth it.

Better: Vremi 50 Pint Dehumidifier

Vremi Dehumidifier 1,500-4,500 Square Feet

BUY NOW

Our ‘Better’ category product is the Vremi fifty pint dehumidifier. This product works in rooms up to forty-five hundred square feet. It can remove fifty pints of water per day and is ideal for larger rooms such as office spaces and large basements. Even if your basement isn’t that large though this product will still work great for smaller areas. This is especially true if those smaller areas have a significant dampness problem. By having such a powerful dehumidifier in the room your problems will be resolved very quickly.

This is the product I would use if you have standing water in your basement. This is the product I would use if you have mold growing in the area. In just a few days you will notice a significant difference. This product is also only slight more expensive then the ‘Good’ selection. For about forty or fifty dollars more you get a more powerful system. As I said previously, this is the product that I would go for.

Best: – DeLonghi 70 Pint Dehumidifier

 DeLonghi 70 Pint Dehumidifier

BUY NOW

Alright folks we are now on to the best of the best. This product is going to cost you quite a bit more then the others but you are also going to be receiving a premium product that will last you quite a while. Before I recommend this product to you I first want to understand why you need a dehumidifier. You see there are a few reasons for one to purchase a product like this. The first is that you are having problems with moisture and are seeing signs of it on your windows, walls, floor, and in the extreme cases standing water in your basement or rooms. This is the most common reason to purchase a dehumidifier.

That being said though, there are other reasons for someone to want to purchase an appliance like this. That reason is allergies. You see when there is excessive moisture in a room there are side effects that come along with it. For example, in a room with too much humidity dust mites, fungus, and other allergens will begin to form. In some cases mold will begin to grow either on your floors, walls, curtains, blankets, and even on your clothes.

While no one is a fan of mold it can be much more impactful for those of us with allergies and those with asthma. My father is an asthmatic and it sometimes only takes the littlest thing to trigger an episode. My mother has to vacuum the house right after he leaves in the morning. If he’s there during vacuuming then the stirred up dust will set him off. Everything has to be as clean as possible. Installing a dehumidifier was one of the steps they took to clean the air in their home. The dehumidifier will make it less hospitable for mold and other allergens to get a foothold in your home. It should be noted though that if mold already exists that you will have to remove it yourself. The dehumidifier will prevent more from growing but it will not clean up the existing mess.

This ‘Best’ product DeLongshi is actually approved by the Asthma Foundation of America and the Allergy Foundation of America. They’re not playing around with this one folks. As I said before, it’s the best of the best. It is the only dehumidifier that I could find that was endorsed by these two organizations. This unit can also dehumidify up to forty-five hundred square feet, just like the product we mentioned previously in our ‘Better’ category.

The downside here is, you guessed it, price. The cost on this product is nearly four-hundred dollars. (Prices can change at any time.) While that may seem like quite an investment to make it will be worth it if you or your family member are suffering from allergies or asthma. I would only recommend this product though if you are looking to relieve allergy/asthma sufferers. If you are just look to dehumidify then you should go with the ‘Better’ category.

Conclusion

Before I close this article I wanted to take a moment here and let you know that when dehumidifying in your basement it is best to use a drainage hose that leads to your air conditioner’s drain grate. This will allow you to run the dehumidifier constantly and not have to worry about emptying the water container every few days. If your basement doesn’t have a drainage area then you are most likely out of luck as the hose needed are gravity fed. Also, note that the room you are looking to dehumidify doesn’t have to be completely open. In other words, if your basement is finished and you have two to three bedrooms down there then I would place it in the largest room out of the three. The other rooms will have a lessened effect, but they will still be dehumidified.

Well ladies and gentlemen, this concludes our best dehumidifier for your basement article. If you would like more information on dehumidifiers please check out our dehumidifier section by clicking here. If you find that I’ve missed something or if you have additional questions please do not hesitate to reach out to me.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ