Question

Dehumidifiers can improve the comfort within your home substantially. This is especially so if you or someone in your family is suffering from allergies. By using a dehumidifier you remove the water from your home. By removing the water you make your house less hospitable for allergens such as mold, fungi, mildew, and dust mites.

The question is what size of dehumidifier should you get? If you look online you will see dozens of different brands, sizes, and choices. But, which one is best for you and your home?

Sizing Your Dehumidifier

Firstly, you need to determine what you intend to use the dehumidifier for. Are you going to be using it in a damp basement? Your master bedroom? Or, perhaps, in your kitchen/living room combination area? Knowing what room you will be using the appliance is key as you will have to purchase the right sized dehumidifier to ensure that the correct amount of moisture is removed from the air.

Once you have room chosen you now need to measure the square footage of said room. The square footage number will help you in determining just what size dehumidifier that you need. To find the square footage you need to measure the width and the length of the room. Let’s say for example you are measuring for a bedroom that measures ten feet long and twelve feet wide. Ten times twelve equals one-hundred and twenty square feet.

These square footage measurements will aid you in picking a portable dehumidifier. However, if you are looking to dehumidify your entire home then you may look at a whole home dehumidifier. These units can actually be attached to your central air conditioner and be routed through your central duct work. While the cost may be expensive at first you will end up seeing monthly savings on your energy bill and a longer life from your central air conditioner due to the dehumidifier taking some of the work off of the AC. These whole system dehumidifiers can work on homes up to three-thousand square feet.

Determining Dampness

Before you purchase you should keep in mind that once you determine the minimum capacity you need  for your room that you should always go up slightly. By going up in capacity, say from a twelve pint to a sixteen pint, you are able to increase the overall efficiency of your dehumidifier. This is because the larger unit will not have to work as hard as a unit that was right at the minimum level.

When you have your square footage determined you next need to figure out how damp the room is that you are trying to dehumidify. There are a few different dampness ratings that we can assign to your room. Knowing these will allow us to guide you on what kind of dehumidifier to purchase.

Moderately Damp – When you enter the room you may notice that the air feels clammy or even damp. There may also be a musty odor when the weather is humid outside. This may be a lot of your basements. The recommend capacity for a moderately damp room is between ten to twenty-six pints, or between five to twelve liters.

    • A five-hundred square feet area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of ten pints or four point seven liters. Our recommended product is the Eurgeen Compact 20 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.
    • A one-thousand square foot area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of fourteen pints or six point six liters. Our recommend product is the Eurgeen Compact 20 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.
    • A fifteen-hundred square foot area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of eighteen pints or eight point five liters. Our recommend product is the Eurgeen Compact 20 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.
    • A two-thousand square foot area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of twenty-two pints or ten liters. Our recommend product is the hOmeLabs 30 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.
    • A twenty-five-hundred square foot area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of twenty-six pints or twelve liters. Our recommend product is the hOmeLabs 30 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.

Very Damp – When you enter this room you may notice that it always smells musty and the air feels clammy or damp. You may even notice damp spots on the floor, walls, or windows.  The recommend capacity for a very damp area is between twelve to thirty-two pints, or between five point seven to fifteen point one liters.

Wet – When you enter this room you may notice that it always smells musty and the air feels clammy or damp. You will also notice water beading on the floors, walls, windows, or elsewhere. You may also see moisture seeping at the edges of the room. The recommend capacity for a wet area is between fourteen to thirty-eight pints, or between six point six to eighteen liters.

Very Wet – When you enter this room you may notice that it always smells musty and the air feels clammy or damp. You will also notice water beading on the floors, walls, windows, or elsewhere. You may also see moisture seeping at the edges of the room. The difference here though between wet and very wet is that with the very wet section you will notice actual standing water on the floor. The recommend capacity for a very wet area is between sixteen to forty-four pints, or between seven point six to twenty point eight liters.

Now, you may have noticed that all of the products we mentioned above are NOT a central dehumidifier. These products we recommended above are strictly portable. If you are interested in a central system then it is best to schedule a consultation with your local HVAC contractor. It is always best to compare prices and quotes from various contractors to ensure you get the best price for your money. Also, you may also end up getting a deal if you purchase both an air conditioner and a central dehumidifier.

Conclusion

As you can see from the above sections there are numerous sizes of dehumidifiers to be considered. Rather you’re looking to just dehumidify your bedroom or your entire home the options are all there. If you are suffering from allergies, or even asthma, then adding a dehumidifier to your home is a very important step to help clean the air.

Along with dehumidifier another easy step to ensure your air is as clean as can be is regularly changing your furnace/air conditioner filters. You can also buy a higher quality filter based on it’s MERV rating. The higher the MERV rating the more containments your filter will catch. Check out our best filter guide by clicking here.

Thanks,

Alec Johnson
RefrigerantHQ

What Is It?

Most folks often do not think about the environment or the air within their home. This is why it is so common to see air conditioner filters go months on end without ever being changed. It’s just not something a lot of people give much thought about. I’m guilty of it as well. It is when you, or someone in your family, begin having trouble breathing due to allergens in your home’s atmosphere that we all take notice and begin to take steps to improve the air circulating in our home. 

One of the first steps to reducing allergens in your home is to regularly change your air filter. I won’t get into all of the details on air conditioner filters here, but if you are interested on what the best are please click here to view our filter buying guide. 

Besides changing your filters regularly another big step to cleanse the air in your home is to purchase and began running a dehumidifier. In this article we are going to take a look at what dehumidifiers are, how they work, and what size you should look at when purchasing for your home. Let’s dive in!

Understanding Humidity

Before we get into what exactly a dehumidifier is we first need to explore what humidity is within your home. First, let’s start with the basic concept of humidity. Humidity in short, is water vapor in the air. This water is in vapor form and is not in the form of fog, clouds, or rain. A desert will typically have low humidity whereas a jungle will have very high humidity. 

Having excess humidity in your home can cause a host of problems. Humidity is not visible to the naked eye, but there are signs of it. For example, if you take a hot shower and then step out of the bathtub and notice the mirror is fogged over. That is an example of the humidity displaying itself to you. You normally see humidity problems in enclosed rooms with poor ventilation such as bathrooms or kitchens. You may also begin to see water droplets forming on the inside of your windows, and in some cases even along your interior walls. These are all examples of excess humidity within your home.

So, what’s the big deal if your home has excess humidity? Too much humidity can cause problems, especially to those in your home that suffer from allergies or asthma. A high humidity environment is perfect for dust mites, mildew, fungi, and mold to thrive in. These allergens can result in a stuffy nose, itchy or watery eyes, sneezing, difficulty breathing, and even skin rashes. In extreme cases the mold or fungi can cause severe asthma symptoms. Reducing the humidity in your home can prevent these allergens from taking root.

My father is a rather severe asthmatic. To the point where my mother has to warn him that she will be vacuuming. He can’t be in the house for hours afterwards or else he’ll have a flare up. To help mitigate his symptoms they have a central humidifier installed as well as multiple air purifiers throughout the home. Even with all of this he still has trouble on certain days. I cannot even imagine how bad it would be without these extra protections of air quality.

Dehumidifiers

Well, as you may have guessed a dehumidifier does just that. It removes excess humidity from your room or home. It does this by intaking air from your home, removing the humidity from it, and then expelling that air back into your home. The removed humidity turns to moisture that is collected in a tray that you will need to empty from time to time.

Depending on what dehumidifier that you are looking at they can remove humidity in one of two ways. The first is that they act like a air conditioner complete with compressor and refrigerant. The air is brought in, the air is cooled by passing over freezing pipes, the cooled air’s moisture/humidity then turns back into liquid, the cooled air is passed through a heating element to warm the air back to room levels, and then the warmed dry air is expelled back into your home. All of this is done with the use of refrigerants just like what you see in air conditioner. The only real difference is that an air conditioner does not have an additional heating element to warm the air back to baseline levels. 

The second way a dehumidifier can work is through the absorption or adsorption method.  This is also known as the desiccant method. These are the most common methods especially in smaller portable dehumidifiers. There is no refrigerant used in this method. Instead, the moist air is pulled into the machine through a duct. That air then moves past a large rotating wheel of water absorbing material. While the air is on this wheel it rotates through a section that has heated hot air blown on it. After some time the rotating wheel is dried out from the hot blowing air and then the dry air is expelled back into your home.

In both cases the dehumidifier should have a sensor that will alert the machine it’s collection tray is full. This alert will stop the machine from operating until the collection tray is emptied of water. Most of the time they will have an indicator alerting you that the tray needs emptied.

Why Do I Need a Dehumidifier?

 Removing humidity makes your home less desirable for mold, mildew, fungi, and dust mites. Along with stopping the growth of mold or mildew a dehumidifier will help to remove the smell of these allergens. If you ever noticed that your basement has a musty or damp smell then a dehumidifier will work to solve that problem.

In extreme cases of excess humidity mold can began to form on your walls, curtains, and even on your clothes or bed sheets. I’ve never been in this situation, but I get a little sick just thinking about it. Can you even imagine mold on our clothes?

Dehumidifiers will reduce the allergens we mentioned above which will result in easier breathing in your home and will also reduce skin irritation. Without the water in the air you don’t have to worry about mold growing on your favorite pair of jeans! The amount of dust in your home will be reduced and the amount of time to dry your clothes. Even your perishable foods like cereal and bread will last longer in homes that run a dehumidifier. There are so many benefits to running a dehumidifier in your home.

Overall, dehumidifiers are rather quiet when operating and most people won’t even notice them once it has been plugged in and turned on. Adding a dehumidifier to your home may actually shrink your monthly energy costs during the summer. Without a dehumidifier your air conditioner will do its best to remove the excess humidity from the air. If you have excess humidity then your air conditioner will be working overtime to remove the heat and humidity. Having a dehumidifier running in your home will reduce the load on your air conditioner and may actually prolong its service life.

What Size Dehumidifier Do I Need?

Ok, so now we know what dehumidifiers are and why you may need to purchase one. The next question is what kind and what size of dehumidifier should you get? If you look online you will see dozens of different brands, sizes, and choices. But, which one is best for you and your home? 

Firstly, you need to determine what you intend to use the dehumidifier for. Are you going to be using it in a damp basement? Your master bedroom? Or, perhaps, in your kitchen/living room combination area? Knowing what room you will be using the appliance is key as you will have to purchase the right sized dehumidifier to ensure that the correct amount of moisture is removed from the air.

Once you have room chosen you now need to measure the square footage of said room. The square footage number will help you in determining just what size dehumidifier that you need. To find the square footage you need to measure the width and the length of the room. Let’s say for example you are measuring for a bedroom that measures ten feet long and twelve feet wide. Ten times twelve equals one-hundred and twenty square feet. 

These square footage measurements will aid you in picking a portable dehumidifier. However, if you are looking to dehumidify your entire home then you may look at a whole home dehumidifier. These units can actually be attached to your central air conditioner and be routed through your central duct work. While the cost may be expensive at first you will end up seeing monthly savings on your energy bill and a longer life from your central air conditioner due to the dehumidifier taking some of the work off of the AC. These whole system dehumidifiers can work on homes up to three-thousand square feet.

Determining Dampness

Before you purchase you should keep in mind that once you determine the minimum capacity you need  for your room that you should always go up slightly. By going up in capacity, say from a twelve pint to a sixteen pint, you are able to increase the overall efficiency of your dehumidifier. This is because the larger unit will not have to work as hard as a unit that was right at the minimum level.

When you have your square footage determined you next need to figure out how damp the room is that you are trying to dehumidify. There are a few different dampness ratings that we can assign to your room. Knowing these will allow us to guide you on what kind of dehumidifier to purchase.

Moderately Damp – When you enter the room you may notice that the air feels clammy or even damp. There may also be a musty odor when the weather is humid outside. This may be a lot of your basements. The recommend capacity for a moderately damp room is between ten to twenty-six pints, or between five to twelve liters.

    • A five-hundred square feet area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of ten pints or four point seven liters. Our recommended product is the Eurgeen Compact 20 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.
    • A one-thousand square foot area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of fourteen pints or six point six liters. Our recommend product is the Eurgeen Compact 20 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.
    • A fifteen-hundred square foot area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of eighteen pints or eight point five liters. Our recommend product is the Eurgeen Compact 20 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.
    • A two-thousand square foot area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of twenty-two pints or ten liters. Our recommend product is the hOmeLabs 30 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.
    • A twenty-five-hundred square foot area that is moderately damp will require a dehumidifier with a capacity of twenty-six pints or twelve liters. Our recommend product is the hOmeLabs 30 Pint Portable Dehumidifier.

Very Damp – When you enter this room you may notice that it always smells musty and the air feels clammy or damp. You may even notice damp spots on the floor, walls, or windows.  The recommend capacity for a very damp area is between twelve to thirty-two pints, or between five point seven to fifteen point one liters.

Wet – When you enter this room you may notice that it always smells musty and the air feels clammy or damp. You will also notice water beading on the floors, walls, windows, or elsewhere. You may also see moisture seeping at the edges of the room. The recommend capacity for a wet area is between fourteen to thirty-eight pints, or between six point six to eighteen liters.

Very Wet – When you enter this room you may notice that it always smells musty and the air feels clammy or damp. You will also notice water beading on the floors, walls, windows, or elsewhere. You may also see moisture seeping at the edges of the room. The difference here though between wet and very wet is that with the very wet section you will notice actual standing water on the floor. The recommend capacity for a very wet area is between sixteen to forty-four pints, or between seven point six to twenty point eight liters.

Other Buying Considerations

Along with the choosing the right size there are other, more minor, factors that should be taken into consideration. The first is the overall portability of the appliance. If you are buying a dehumidifier for one of your rooms, or even your basement, how easy is it to move? Does it come with rollers, or does it have to be carried? This may not mean much if you intend to set it and forget it in one room, but if you want the ability to move the dehumidifier around then portability definitely worth reviewing.

Another small factor is the overall size of the tank that will be holding the water that is removed from the air. Obviously, the larger the tank the less often you will have to empty it. This is just more of a convenience factor then anything though. The size of tanks can vary wildly from model to model. You may also even find some units that come with a drainage hose that can be fed to your basement drain or even your sink. All of this is a matter of preference, obviously the easiest solution is going with the hose option.

Something else to consider is what type of dehumidifier that you want for your home. In an earlier section we discussed the two types of dehumidifiers: Refrigerant based and desiccant based. The desiccant models are more efficient then refrigerant models, especially in colder temperature areas. The down side is that these systems also have a smaller capacity rating.  The desiccant models are also quieter than their refrigerant counterpart. If you were looking to cool just a bedroom or two then you may look at the desiccant.

 However, if you are having constant trouble with a part of your home that is hot and humid then you should be looking at the refrigerant models. A refrigerant based system will be more efficient in hotter temperatures. It all depends on temperature. If the area you are dehumidifying is below sixty-five degrees then you should go with the desiccant model and if your room is above sixty-five degrees then go with the refrigerant type model.

The ideal humidity setting in a room is between thirty to fifty percent. In most cases the dehumidifier  you chose will have a setting to allow you to customize the humidity within the room. You may have to play around with this setting until you find the exact number that works for you and your home.

Conclusion

Dehumidifiers can be a great help in aiding in the overall comfort of your home. If you or someone in your family is suffering from allergies or even asthma installing a dehumidifier is one of the first things you should do. Now, It’s not a cure all… nothing is, but it very well may help aid in their day to day comfort.

 Even if you don’t have someone in your home who is suffering from allergies a dehumidifier is a great solution for a damp or wet area. A lot of folks set these up in their basements to get rid of that mildew and damp smell.  

Whatever your reason is for showing interest in dehumidifiers I hope that this article was able to help you and answer your questions.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

As we all know, when January hits in 2020 R-22 production and importing will no longer be allowed within the United States. The only way to receive R-22 will be through purchasing virgin product from those distributors who have stockpiled or by purchasing reclaimed refrigerant. This simple fact is causing a lot of concern for ice rink owners, managers, and local governments. In most cases their ice rinks are decades old and need repairs every other year or so. In the United States R-22 was the primary refrigerant used for ice rink applications.

The problem occurs with the R-22 ice rinks that are aging. These business owners and government leaders are left with two choices. They can continue with their R-22 systems and hope that the cost of the refrigerant doesn’t climb when the phase out hits. Or, they can bite the bullet and invest in a completely new refrigeration system for their arena. Yes, there is a third option of retrofitting but in many cases retrofitting to a new refrigerant simply isn’t possible. A retrofit is very dependent on what refrigerant you are using and what refrigerant you will be moving towards.

A new refrigeration system for ice rinks can cost multiple millions of dollars. It this reason alone why many managers have decided to kick the can down the road and go with the first option we listed. The prospect of stockpiling R-22 is much cheaper than replacing their old R-22 system with Ammonia or an HFO refrigerant.

One arena out of East Grand Forks, Minnesota is doing exactly that. In an article I read this morning they stated that they are purchasing nearly three-thousand pounds of R-22 in anticipation of the January 2020 phase out. While this may sound like a lot of refrigerant a standard ice rink can use several thousands of pounds of R-22. So, this stockpile may only be able to handle one or two full recharges. When their stockpile runs out, they will be in the same boat again only this time facing a higher priced R-22.

The prospect of spending millions on replacing an outdated system is simply just not possible for many of these ice rink owners.  In most cases they have to get grants from their local city or county government in order to pay for the replacement. Often times these grants are difficult to get pushed through.

This is why we see many arenas stock piling R-22. There is no better time to buy R-22 then right now as the prices are at rock bottom. I haven’t seen prices this low in years.  Depending on where you look a thirty pound cylinder can cost less than three-hundred dollars. That’s less than ten dollars per pound.  No one knows for sure what’s going to happen to the price as we get closer to January, so if you are looking to stockpile then now is the time.

Conclusion

This problem is rather unique to the United States. Outside of the US most ice rinks use R-717 ammonia.  Ammonia is cheap and is one of the most efficient refrigerants in the world. The downside though is the toxicity risk if a leak occurs. There are specific safety regulations and procedures taken when working with Ammonia systems though that helps to mitigate the risk of exposure.

The US though has always been apprehensive to refrigerants that come with safety concerns such as hydrocarbons or ammonia. However, in recent years though this has begun to change. When these arena owners do finally decide to bite the bullet and pay for a new system ammonia is a viable option.

Along with ammonia there are other options out there as well. Last year, I wrote an article on the future of ice rinks. The article went into all of the possible refrigerants that could be used in ice rinks today. Click here if you’d like to review it.

All of the above being said, this is assuming that these ice rinks can actually get the money to replace their existing system. In many cases the money is just not obtainable and when their existing R-22 system finally breaks down beyond repair these arenas may have to shut their doors for good.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Sources

alert

On April 4th, 2019 a suit was filed by the HFC Coalition to the International Trade Commission (ITC). This suit aimed at stopping the dumping of HFC blended refrigerants such as R-410A, R-404A, and R-407C. The ITC’s decision on rather or not to review the suit was set for a deadline in May, but it was then pushed back to July. We were all expecting a decision to come next month but it was announced at the tail end of this week that the ITC has decided to accept the case and began the inquiry.

There have already been anti-dumping tariffs on HFC blends for a few years now, but the ITC’s ruling back then stated that only the blended refrigerant could be subject to the tariff. The components of these blends were not subject to the tax. So, businesses could import R-32 and R-125 refrigerants from China and face no penalties. These same businesses would then blend the refrigerant here in the States and then circumvent the tariff.

This oversight by the International Trade Commission has led to what we have today. Dirt cheap prices on some of the most common HFC refrigerants used. In essence, the initial levying of tariffs on blended refrigerants had very little impact. Everyone was getting around the tariff by importing components. It was like nothing had changed.

This is where the new suit filed in April comes into play. This case targeted the components of these blended refrigerants. On the original announcement of the suit prices on HFC blends went up nearly forty to fifty percent. As the dust began to settle prices slowly sank back down to pre-suit levels. Now though, the ITC has announced that they will hear this new case.

The Inquiry

As I said previously, the Department of Commerce has decided to began an inquiry on HFC refrigerant components. Originally, everyone had thought that the inquiry would be solely focused the blending process of the components. So, if you imported the components and then blended them into an HFC blend that is tariffed then you would be subject to the tax.

To my surprise though there were four inquiries announced this week. Let’s take a look:

  1. The first inquiry is what we just mentioned above. This is the blending of the components within the United States and circumventing the tariff. If the ITC agrees then a tariff would be installed on the blending process if the components are sourced from China.
  2. The next is what’s known as unfinished blends. I’ll be upfront with you here, I don’t know one-hundred percent what this is but my educated guess is that this is Chinese refrigerant companies blending the refrigerants but NOT to the exact levels to meet the anti-dumping blended requirements. In other words, they get it close to R-410A… but not all the way. This process would also be taxed if the ITC approves.
  3. The next inquiry is similar to our first point. This has to deal with importing components and blending them in a different country. The difference here though is that this is referencing India in particular. In this scenario, China exports the refrigerant components to India and then India blends them to create the blended HFC. This was yet another work around that companies found as the country of origin is India… even though the goods came from China. If approved anti-dumping would be installed in this scenario as well. While the initial inquiry only states India that does not mean that other countries are exempt. Say for example, China imports components into Vietnam and they blend there. If a decision is made here let’s hope it applies to all countries.
  4. The last change is on the blended refrigerant R-421A. This refrigerant blend actually doesn’t have a tariff on it because the product is patented. Patented refrigerants were excluded from the previous anti-dumping order. R-421A is quite similar to the more popular blended refrigerant known as R-407C. So, folks were importing the non-tariff R-421A and then finishing the blend to create R-407C. To give an example here, R-421A is comprised of R-125 (58%) and R-134a (42%). R-407C is comprised of R-32 (23%), R-125 (25%), and R-134a (52%). The only thing missing between these two refrigerants is R-32 and that is easily enough imported in without a tariff. If the ITC rules in favor then these patented blends will see tariffs installed on them as well.

Call these work around what you want. Maybe they are clever loopholes found by hard working businessmen. Or, maybe, they are skirting the edge of the law and they should all be stopped. However you feel, it is all coming to a head now. Now that this inquiry has begun there is a great amount of uncertainty in the market. What will happen? Will they rule in favor of all four? Just some, or none at all?

Pricing Impact

The official inquiry by the Department of Commerce will be hitting the public register on Monday. From that date onwards, June 17th, there will be a three-hundred day period for the ITC to make their decision. Here’s the scary thing though folks. If the ITC decides to impose tariffs in any of the ways we described above then those tariffs could be retroactive. This is huge and this is the main reason we are seeing prices go haywire.

Look at this way. Let’s say I am a business owner and I am going to import a trailerload of R-32 and R-125 into the United States next week. The product comes in, I blend it to R-410A, and then sell all of the product a few months later. I could face a tariff on ALL of that imported product nearly a year after I had imported and sold it. The ITC has the power to make this ruling retroactive and because of that the importing of HFCs has become a lot less attractive. Business owners could be looking at an over one-hundred percent tax on product they already sold.

Everyone who saw this coming bought up on as much product as they could and now that the inquiry has begun prices have begun to rise. A few major manufacturers have already announced their price increases. The question now though is will these manufacturers put limits on what quantities businesses can buy as well? Or, will the high prices be enough?

If you were smart enough to buy ahead you can now make a killing since the import market has all but dried up. Let’s take a look at some of the pricing trends we’re seeing now since this inquiry began just a few days ago:

R-410A – Twenty-Five Pound Cylinder Pricing:

  • Fall 2017 – $140
  • Fall 2018 – $65
  • Jan 2019 – $68
  • Feb 2019 – $56
  • Mar 2019 – $49
  • Apr 2019 – $100 – News of possible tariffs
  • May 2019 – $78
  • June 2019 – $65 – Before Inquiry
  • June 2019 – $100 – After Inquiry
    • I will state that the $100 is with some vendors. I have seen some say one-hundred and fifty and even some at one-hundred and eighty dollars a cylinder.

R-404A – Twenty-Four Pound Cylinder Pricing:

  • Fall 2017 – $175
  • Fall 2018 – $80
  • Jan 2019 – $70
  • Feb 2019 – $58
  • Mar 2019 – $50
  • Apr 2019 – $105 – News of possible tariffs
  • May 2019 – $89
  • June 2019 – $60 – Before Inquiry
  • June 2019 – $105 – After Inquiry

R-407C – Twenty-Five Pound Cylinder Pricing:

I don’t have as much pricing information on this product but I can still show you the pricing swing that took place this month:

  • June 2019 – $85 – Before Inquiry
  • June 2019 – $105 – After Inquiry

Conclusion

With the announcement of these inquiries this week there is now a lot of uncertainty introduced within the market place. It is difficult to say what will happen with pricing now. In the earlier announcements there was still hope that the ITC wouldn’t take up the case, but now that it is official we may see prices stay at these levels, or even go higher. It could go as crazy as two-hundred dollars plus a cylinder late this summer for some of the more popular HFC blends. But, we just don’t know for sure.

After all, it’s been an unseasonably colder summer for most of the country. I just took a bike ride earlier today in seventy-four degree weather. That is unheard of in Kansas in the middle of June. It should be close to one-hundred degrees. I know New England and other areas are experiencing the same thing. This colder weather may act as a buffer to this pending inquiry and help insulate the pricing situation until a decision is made next year.

If you are looking to purchase refrigerant please check out our bulk purchasing page by clicking here. In many cases we can get you the best and most aggressive priced product on the market.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Also, check out our other earlier articles on this same topic:

Question

One of the most confusing parts of buying a new air conditioner is understanding the SEER. The SEER, or Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, is a measurement of your air conditioner’s energy efficiency. This measurement is calculated by the total cooling output of your system divided by the total electric energy input, or Watt-Hours, required. So, in other words cooling power divided by electric power. The SEER rating/ratio is calculated over the entire cooling season as an average. It factors in a constant indoor temperature and then weighs that temperature against outside temperatures ranging from sixty degrees up to one-hundred degrees. By doing this range of temperatures they are able to calculate a typical season.

When you see a SEER rating on an air conditioner that SEER rating is that system’s maximum efficiency. If you went outside and checked the SEER on your current air conditioner it may say SEER fourteen. But, that fourteen rating is the maximum efficiency ratio and if your system is not tuned up every year and taken care of properly then you are most likely not at that SEER level. You will also not reach your maximum SEER rating if you are constantly changing the temperature throughout the day or even week. It is best to have one set temperature and stick with it. This ensures your air conditioner has a set target to reach and stay there.

In 2006 the United States Department of Energy, or DOE, required that air conditioners have a minimum of thirteen SEER. Then in 2015 another change was made by the DOE. This time they changed the minimum SEER from thirteen to fourteen, but only for specific states. This change focused on those states in the south east and south west of the country. This would include your hottest states in the Union including Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, and Texas. If you live in the northern part of the country though then your minimum SEER rating is still at thirteen.

Is It Worth the Money?

That is the question folks. Is it really worth the money to purchase a higher SEER system? Normally, when you are receiving quotes from an HVAC contractor there is pressure from them to buy the higher SEER models. But, before your buy you need to understand if it’s really worth the money or not. Of course, they will tell you it is, but let’s really look at it and determine how much you’ll save and if the higher SEER is for you.

First let’s consider the extra expense when purchasing a higher SEER model. It really depends on how much more efficient you want to get. If you move from a fourteen SEER up to a sixteen SEER then you are going to see an increased cost of about six-hundred to eight-hundred dollars. However, if you go up to the top tier models like a twenty-one SEER then you could see prices go as high as two-thousand or even three-thousand dollars higher than a standard fourteen SEER system.

Remember like we mentioned earlier, the SEER rating is the maximum efficiency of your air conditioner. That means it will NOT always be running at that SEER value. Over the years your system will become less and less efficient. That is just how things work. This could be due to wear and tear of your system, dust and grime on your evaporator coils, micro refrigerant leaks in the lines, and so many other variables.  You can minimize this degradation by taking excellent care of your air conditioner and ensuring all yearly maintenance is completed.

High SEER systems cost a lot more to repair then a standard system. If you have your compressor go out on your fourteen SEER system you could be looking at a three to four-hundred dollar repair. However, if your compressor goes out on a twenty-one SEER system then that could be a one-thousand dollar repair. There’s another downside here folks… A higher end SEER air conditioner uses what’s called a two stage compressor. This compressor allows the air conditioner to act like a larger or smaller air conditioner as needed. So, the compressor will switch stages depending on the demand of the temperature outside. While this sounds great, the downside is that these two speed compressors actually have a higher failure rate than a standard compressor. So, you could be looking at an expensive compressor repair sooner than you’d like.

All of the above being said, you will save money per month using a higher SEER system. Typically, these savings can range between fifty to eighty dollars a month. The question you have to ask yourself though is how often will you be running your air conditioner throughout the year? Will it be all year? Six months? Or, just a few months out of the year?

Let’s say for example you are running it for six months out of the year. Six months times eighty dollars a month equals out to four-hundred and eighty dollars in savings a year. So, now the question is how much more is the SEER system then your standard? Is it another two-thousand dollars? If so, then you it’s going to take you about four or five years to make up for that… and that is assuming you do not have a large part failure during that time.

Conclusion

As you can see from above it all relates to how often you are going to be running your air conditioner. If you are running it year round then that eighty dollars a month in savings sounds pretty good. But, if you’re only running the air conditioner for three months in the summer then it is definitely not worth your money to purchase a higher end system. The other factor to be taken in to consideration is the possible repairs. Yes, it’s a wildcard and you never know when it’s going to come up but a repair on a high SEER system can be quite pricey.

You will find that most people end up going with the standard fourteen SEER system. It is tried and true method and will cool your home. If you are in an extremely hot climate though, say like Phoenix, then you may consider purchasing a higher SEER system. When I say higher SEER system it doesn’t have to be a twenty-five SEER. No, it could even ben an eighteen. Just something a bit higher to give you that extra efficiency.

Thanks for reading and I hope this article was able to answer your questions,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How does it work?

I hate to say it, but it’s never a fun time purchasing a new central air conditioner. Chances are your old unit broke down during the hottest part of the summer. Heck, maybe it broke while you were at work and you came home to a house that was ninety plus degrees inside. You call a service company out only to find out that your air conditioner is on its last legs and the time has finally come to replace it with a new system.

The question now though is what do you replace it with? There are all different brands, makes, and models out there. It can be a little bit overwhelming, especially for those of you who aren’t as familiar with the ins and outs of air conditioning.

SEER Ratings

One of the most confusing parts of buying a new air conditioner is understanding the SEER. The SEER, or Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, is a measurement of your air conditioner’s energy efficiency. This measurement is calculated by the total cooling output of your system divided by the total electric energy input, or Watt-Hours, required. So, in other words cooling power divided by electric power. The SEER rating/ratio is calculated over the entire cooling season as an average. It factors in a constant indoor temperature and then weighs that temperature against outside temperatures ranging from sixty degrees up to one-hundred degrees. By doing this range of temperatures they are able to calculate a typical season.

When you see a SEER rating on an air conditioner that SEER rating is that system’s maximum efficiency. If you went outside and checked the SEER on your current air conditioner it may say SEER fourteen. But, that fourteen rating is the maximum efficiency ratio and if your system is not tuned up every year and taken care of properly then you are most likely not at that SEER level. You will also not reach your maximum SEER rating if you are constantly changing the temperature throughout the day or even week. It is best to have one set temperature and stick with it. This ensures your air conditioner has a set target to reach and stay there.

In 2006 the United States Department of Energy, or DOE, required that air conditioners have a minimum of thirteen SEER. Then in 2015 another change was made by the DOE. This time they changed the minimum SEER from thirteen to fourteen, but only for specific states. This change focused on those states in the south east and south west of the country. This would include your hottest states in the Union including Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, and Texas. If you live in the northern part of the country though then your minimum SEER rating is still at thirteen.

What is a Good SEER?

Alright folks, so now we understand what the SEER rating is, but now we need to know what SEER rating should you get for your next air conditioner?  Air conditioners today can be purchased with a thirteen SEER all the way up to a twenty-five SEER. However, if you were to purchase an average air conditioner today you would most likely receive a unit between fourteen and eighteen SEER. This is the range that most folks are used to today.

The reason that most air conditioners found today are at that fourteen level is due to the cost of a higher SEER system. If you go up just slightly to a SEER sixteen system you could be paying as much as six-hundred to eight-hundred dollars more just on the system and install. If you went up to a twenty-one or even higher SEER system then you could be looking at multiple thousands more, sometimes as high as four-thousand dollars more. It is these high prices tags that scare a lot of folks away from the higher SEER models.

There are benefits though to a higher end system such as a SEER twenty-one. With this high end system you can save an estimated fifty to eighty dollars per month on your energy bill. This could be about five-hundred dollars a year if you’re running your air conditioner for about half the year. So, even if your higher end SEER model costs you two-thousand dollars more you could potentially earn that money back after four years of use. Along with that you also get a more stable and consistent temperature throughout your home.

I say potentially in the above paragraph as there are a lot of variables that you need to consider. It is not as simple as an even savings of eighty dollars a month. No, there is more to it than that. First, you need to remember that SEER is the maximum efficiency. Just like we mentioned in our previous section, your SEER rating will go down over the years. So, a SEER twenty-one system will lose efficiency as the years pass. The second point is that repairs on high end SEER systems can be quite expensive. Most contractors state that parts are two or three times as expensive when compared to a standard fourteen SEER system. A three-hundred dollar repair could turn into a nine-hundred dollar repair.

Conclusion

So, to answer your question here it depends on what you are looking for. There is no ‘Good SEER’ but it’s a matter of preference. Do you want to save some money in the beginning and get a fourteen SEER system? Or, do you want to spend more upfront and have that savings pass to you each month?

If it was me buying for my home I would opt for the fourteen SEER system. If you are really concerned about efficiency then maybe you go up to the sixteen. But, I wouldn’t worry about the very high SEER systems unless you are in an area where you are constantly running your air conditioner throughout the year. So, if you live in Phoenix or El Paso then you may consider a high end model. Otherwise folks, I’d stick with the standard fourteen SEER.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

What Is It?

SEER, or Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, is a measurement of efficiency for your air conditioner and heat pump. This number is calculated by the total cooling output of your system divided by the total electric energy input, or Watt-Hours, required. So, in other words cooling power divided by electric power. The SEER rating/ratio is calculated over the entire cooling season as an average. It factors in a constant indoor temperature and then weighs that temperature against outside temperatures ranging from sixty degrees up to one-hundred degrees. By doing this range of temperatures they are able to calculate a typical season.

When you see a SEER rating on an air conditioner that SEER rating is that system’s maximum efficiency. If you went outside and checked the SEER on your current air conditioner it may say SEER fourteen. But, that fourteen rating is the maximum efficiency ratio and if your system is not tuned up every year and taken care of properly then you are most likely not at that SEER level. You will also not reach your maximum SEER rating if you are constantly changing the temperature throughout the day or even week. It is best to have one set temperature and stick with it. This ensures your air conditioner has a set target to reach and stay there.

In 2006 the United States Department of Energy, or DOE, required that air conditioners have a minimum of thirteen SEER. Then in 2015 another change was made by the DOE. This time they changed the minimum SEER from thirteen to fourteen, but only for specific states. This change focused on those states in the south east and south west of the country. This would include your hottest states in the Union including Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, and Texas. If you live in the northern part of the country though then your minimum SEER rating is still at thirteen.

Air conditioners today can be purchased with a thirteen SEER all the way up to a twenty-five SEER. However, if you were to purchase an average air conditioner today you would most likely receive a unit between fourteen and eighteen SEER. This is the range that most folks are used to today.

Pros & Cons of Higher SEER Systems

The higher the SEER rating the more efficient your air conditioner is and the less you have to pay in monthly cooling bills. That being said, it is difficult to determine just how much you will save with a higher SEER system then a lower end one. There are still many factors to consider when looking at your energy bills. How insulated is your home and attic? Is warm air getting in through your windows and other areas? How much do you pay per kilowatts for your power? All of these factors can add or subtract the amount of savings that you’ll see with a higher SEER system.

Along with a more energy efficient system you also get a more stable and comfortable temperature with higher SEER systems. A lower end air conditioner are typically single stage systems and can only run at a single speed. With a single stage system your compressor will turn off and on during moderate temperatures. This results in extra energy costs and also in hot and cold spots throughout your home.

Whereas, a higher end SEER system will have a two stage or variable speed compressor that is automatically adjusted as needed. This allows the system to function like a five ton air conditioner on demanding days and a two ton system during light days. You also get a variable speed blower motor. This ensures that you are getting the maximum efficiency but also that your home will be comfortable during those hot summer months. If you live in a very hot climate such as Arizona then you might consider getting a higher SEER system just for the extra comfort.

The other thing to consider here is that while a higher SEER rating means a more efficient system it also means a much higher upfront expense. Yes, a higher rated SEER system such as one in the twenties is going to cost you a lot more upfront then a standard rated system of fifteen or sixteen. This is where you will need to decide on what you want. Do you want that large upfront expense and cheaper monthly energy bills? Or, do you want a cheaper system but higher month to month bills?

For some folks who can’t decide this there is always the compromise of a middle of the road system. Say for example that I’m looking for a new air conditioner and I don’t want the bare minimum fourteen SEER, but I don’t want to go crazy either and get a twenty-five SEER. In this case, I would look at the sixteen to twenty ranged SEERS. This gives me a fairly efficient system for not near as much cost as a twenty-five SEER. Just keep in mind that a higher SEER system can cost thousands more.

Is It Worth the Money?

That is the question folks. Is it really worth the money to purchase a higher SEER system? Well, to be honest with you, in most cases it’s not. Let’s take a look at why:

A higher SEER model can sometimes cost TWICE as much as a standard thirteen or fourteen SEER model. Some contractors will try to say that a higher SEER model will pay for itself after only a few years, but will it really?

Remember like we mentioned earlier, the SEER rating is the maximum efficiency of your air conditioner. That means it will NOT always be running at that SEER value. Over the years your system will become less and less efficient. That is just how things work. This could be due to wear and tear of your system, dust and grime on your evaporator coils, micro refrigerant leaks in the lines, and so many other variables.

High SEER systems cost a lot more to repair then a standard system. If you have your compressor go out on your fourteen SEER system you could be looking at a three to four-hundred dollar repair. However, if your compressor goes out on a twenty-one SEER system then that could be a one-thousand dollar repair. There’s another downside here folks… remember that two speed compressor we talked about earlier on higher SEER systems? Well, the two speed compressors actually have a higher failure rate than a standard compressor. So, you could be looking at an expensive compressor repair sooner than you’d like.

All of the above being said, you will save money per month using a twenty-one or higher SEER system. Typically, these savings can range between fifty to eighty dollars a month. The question you have to ask yourself though is how often will you be running your air conditioner throughout the year? Will it be all year? Six months? Or, just a few months out of the year?

Let’s say for example you are running it for six months out of the year. Six months times eighty dollars a month equals out to four-hundred and eighty dollars in savings a year. So, now the question is how much more is the SEER system then your standard? Is it another two-thousand dollars? If so, then you it’s going to take you about four or five years to make up for that… and that is assuming you do not have a large part failure during that time.

Conclusion

As I mentioned earlier folks you are going to find that most people throughout the country are using between a fourteen to sixteen SEER system. This is just your normal range. The sixteen SEER gives folks a bit of an efficiency upgrade without costing an arm and a leg. In most cases a sixteen SEER system will only be another eight-hundred dollars or so when compared to a fourteen.

All that being said though, if you are in a hotter climate and you are running your air conditioners almost year round then a higher SEER system may make sense for you. You get that extra savings per month and the constant comfortable temperature.

Ultimately, the final decision is going to be up to you. Do you want that higher upfront cost and potential savings down the road, or do you want to go with the traditional fourteen SEER systems?

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Question

Summers in Kansas can be quite rough. In just about a month from now it’ll be mid-July and we’ll have temperatures consistently above ninety-five degrees. In many cases we may see a week stretch of one-hundred plus degree highs. Besides the local swimming pool the only way we can escape these high temperatures is by retreating to our homes and relying on our central air conditioners to keep us cool.

But, what do we do on these crazy hot days when we realize our air conditioner just isn’t keeping up? We have it set to seventy-four but the thermostat reads eighty-two and the air conditioner hasn’t shut off for hours. In this article we are going to take a look at this exact scenario and figure out the cause behind it as well as taking a look at solutions to help your air conditioner do its job.

There are a variety of reasons that could cause your air conditioner not to be keeping up with your demand. I’m going to break this article up into three sections and take a look at each possible reason. Let’s dive in.

Record Heat

Every once and a while we get one of those insane heat waves where it seems it will just never end. It is day after day of one-hundred plus degree days. It’s miserable. It may be hard to keep these days in perspective as you are living through them, but you have to realize that these extra hot days are the exception. In most cases your air conditioner isn’t designed to withstand such hot temperatures. If you find that it’s one-hundred and six degrees outside and your air conditioner isn’t keeping up… don’t get mad at it! It is most likely working fine; it just wasn’t designed for the punishment of one-hundred degree temperatures.

The air conditioner for your home was made with a specific designed temperature in mind. As an example, let’s say you live in an area where it very rarely gets over ninety-five degrees. Maybe this only occurs a few days a year. It would make sense then to have an air conditioner that is designed to handle ninety-five degree temperatures.

So, if you have a heat wave of constant one-hundred degree days in the middle of August then your air conditioner is not going to keep up. Remember, it is not designed to handle those kinds of temperatures. You will find that most every other air conditioner in your area is having the same problem.

You see HVAC Contractors install air conditioners based off of the climate they are in. So, you would get a different air conditioner if you live in Phoenix compared to Boston. These are two distinct climates and require two distinct air conditioners.

Sure, you could get a ‘Phoenix’ air conditioner for your New England home but it’s going to cost you a lot and it may not even be worth it. I mean, why pay extra for that little bit of extra comfort for a few days out of the year? Soon enough the heat wave will dissipate and your air conditioner will return to normal functionality.

Air Conditioner Problems

If you are experiencing a record heatwave then I wouldn’t say that your air conditioner has a problem but more so that it’s just overloaded. This is the scenario that we discussed in our first section, ‘Record Heat.’ However, if you find that your air conditioner isn’t keeping up and it’s not that hot outside. (Under ninety degrees) Then you may in fact have a problem with your air conditioner.

There is a whole host of reasons of what could be causing your air conditioner to lag behind your demands on a moderate day. I won’t get into every possible reason here but instead direct to you an article that I wrote a few days ago titled, Why Isn’t My Air Conditioner Cooling My Home?

Along with the reasons mentioned in our linked article above there is another possible reason why your air conditioner isn’t keeping up with your thermostat. It could be as simple as your air conditioner is too small for your home. You may have a three ton system installed and in actually need a five ton. If this was the case then it would result in your air conditioner running constantly and never fully catching up to your home’s cooling needs.

If you suspect this is the case for your air conditioner I would recommend calling a service technician to inspect your air conditioner and see if it is in fact too small for your home. The downside here is that if this is the case then you’ll either have to stick with the air conditioner you have, supplement your cooling with portable/window air conditioners, or purchase a whole new larger central air system.

Heat Proofing Your Home

During these heatwaves your air conditioner is going to need your help. There are some things that you can do to keep your home cool and take some stress off of your air conditioner.

We’ll start with the basic ones and then work our ways up towards the more complex. First, you should ensure that you have all of your celling fans on and running. Along with the ceiling fans it would help to have standalone fans as well. We have one room in our house that just doesn’t seem to get cool no matter what we do. The other day we added a fan and kept it on at medium all day. The temperature difference has drastically improved. Sometimes it can be as simple as just adding a fan.

There are all kinds of ways for heat to get into your home. The most impactful though can be your windows, especially your south and west facing windows. In the days of extreme heat these windows can act almost like a greenhouse and actually amplify the heat it’s sending into your home. In order to prevent this most folks close their shades and curtains throughout the day. I have blackout curtains installed in my master just to ensure none of that heat gets in there.

However, if you find that you don’t like living in a cave with no natural light coming in you can invest in what’s called a Solar Shade Screen. These screens actually block a large portion of the sun’s rays. (Up to seventy-five percent.) You order them in a spool and they can then be cut as needed to fit across your screen. You can find an example product on Amazon.com by clicking here. Many users see a reduced temperature in their rooms after installing and they don’t have to have the curtains or blinds drawn all day.

The next big step in reducing heat into your home is going through and identifying all of the air leaks. Air leaks can be everywhere throughout your home. Starting off, it would make sense to check every one of your windows and caulk them if necessary. Along with the windows you should also check your dryer vent. In a lot of cases warm air can sneak in through this.

Besides windows and the dryer vent you should be checking two other prime areas: Your basement/crawl space and your attic. Typically the basement/crawl space isn’t as big of a deal during the summer as heat rises, but it is still good to check and it’s one less thing you have to do when winter comes.

The attic though is the big one. That is where most of heat is getting into your home from. The first thing I would do is check the door to your attic. How warm does it feel? Does it feel like heat is coming through? If so, then you have already identified some of the problem. Check the seams around the door and caulk what you can. Then, go up into the attic and check the insulation levels.

When you close the attic door take a good look around the attic. Are you able to see light from your main floor peeking through? If so, then this isn’t a good thing! That means you’ve got air flowing through. If possible caulk these holes up the best you can. This may mean working around obstructions like vents or ductwork found in the attic. Please be sure to exercise caution while in the attic as you don’t want to make a wrong step. You could sending yourself through the celling by mistake.

Once you have sealed all of the holes that you have found it is time to take a look at the insulation. How much is there? Are you able to see any bare spots? If so, then you will need to add additional layers.

When the insulation has been laid, the holes sealed, and the other steps we mentioned above you should see an improvement in the temperature inside your home. Obviously, this depends from home to home. I’ve seen some reports of a couple degrees difference and others of only a slight improvement. It all depends how your house is to start. If you’ve got leaking air everywhere then yes, of course, you’re going to see an improvement.

Conclusion

A lot of folks get concerned when they see that their air conditioner isn’t keeping up with what temperature they have set on their thermostat. Right away they get nervous and then call their air conditioner technician to come take a look. I am hoping though, that after reading this article you feel a bit more confident on why your air conditioner isn’t keeping up and that in many cases it isn’t the end of the world.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How To

The summers in Kansas can be brutal. In the July and August months we can see one-hundred plus degree temperatures for weeks at a time. If you couple that with the high humidity it can be an outright miserable experience. Most folks get away from this heat by retreating to the confines of their home where their central air conditioner keeps them nice and cool.

What do you do though when you come home only to find that your central air conditioner isn’t working anymore? Perhaps you come home and notice the home is much hotter than it should be. You go and check the vents and feel air being pushed through… but its lukewarm air. Or, perhaps you go and check the outside unit and see that it’s covered in frost and ice. Whatever you encounter the end result is the same: Your home is not being cooled.

So, how do you fix this? How can you get your air conditioner working again? Well, in most cases folks you will have to call a service company to come out and troubleshoot your air conditioner to determine what the problem is. That being said, before you make that call there are a few things that you can check yourself to ensure that you aren’t looking at a simple fix. After all, it’s much better to fix it yourself then have to pay for a service call.

Do-It-Yourself Checks

Before you end up calling a local service company to take a look at your system there are a few things that you can do to troubleshoot your system. First things first though, if your system is covered in ice or frost then turn off your air conditioner and wait for the ice/frost to melt. Once the ice has dissipated we can began troubleshooting. (If there is no ice then turn your system off and start troubleshooting right away.)

Ok, now that we’ve got our system turned off there are a variety of things that you can check and do before we call that tech out. The very first thing I check every time when something goes wrong with my system is the filter. Ideally, your filter should be changed every few months to ensure that clean air is circulating through your home and that dust does not get trapped within your air conditioner/furnace.

If you have not changed your air filter for quite a while then this could be the problem that you are having. Not changing this filter regularly will result in poor airflow due to all of the dirt and grime that gets stuck to the filter. This poor air flow will restrict the amount of hot air that your evaporator coils receive. Without the needed hot air your evaporator can freeze.

By either cleaning or replacing your filter with a new one you may be able to prevent this from happening again and only be out twenty or thirty dollars. If you are unsure on what kind of air filter to purchase check out our ‘Best Air Conditioner Filter’ guide by clicking here. Also, when you are changing your air filter take your vacuum with you with a hose attachment. Then, when you take the old filter out insert that hose attachment in there and suck up any remaining dust that remains. This will ensure you get a nice clean air before you insert the new filter. (Some people use brooms for this as well to sweep out any remaining dust.)

The next logical place that I am going to check is the thermostat. This may sound like a stupid question, but is it set to cool? If it’s not, don’t feel ashamed. I’ve had it happen to me as well. My toddler thought it’d be a fun idea to play with the thermostat before we left for the day. When I came home I was greeted with a surprise. If the thermostat is set to cool then what is the fan setting at? Not all thermostats have this setting but if you do have a fan setting make sure that it is set to ‘Auto’ and not set to ‘On.’ If you do have it set to ‘On’ then you will have the blower motor blowing air constantly… even if the air conditioner isn’t on. So, you’ll get warm air blowing through your home. Lastly, it could be that the thermostat itself is bad and isn’t reading temperatures correctly. If this is the case then this would fall more in line with a service call.

Another area to check is your drainage line. The drainage line comes off your inside unit and should be a smaller plastic tube. The end of the tube should be routed to a drain in your floor. This drainage tube attaches to your condenser. Remember, that your condenser removes heat AND humidity from your home. When removing humidity condensation can occur and water can form. This is what your drainage line is for. Occasionally, your drainage line can get clogged with dirt and debris. If enough is in there it will prevent water from flowing outwards. The water will get stuck and will either find a way out to spill on your floor or it will back up towards the condenser and freeze. The freezing water will crawl back up the tube and may even freeze your condenser. All you need to do to correct this is wait for the ice to thaw and then clean out your tube so that water can flow freely to the drain.

There is one more check we can do before we move outside. A lot of homeowners like to close vents in rooms they are not using. This is seen as a way to save money. This is all true, but if you close too many vents in your home then that cold air has nowhere to go and could end up freezing some of your lines or your air conditioner itself. Try opening up all of your vents when you turn on your air conditioner again. Watch to see if the problem occurs again. If it doesn’t, then try closing one or two vents, then watch your system again. Rinse and repeat until you determine what the ‘perfect’ number of closed vents is for your home.

The last check that you can do before you need to call a service technician is inspecting your condenser on your outside unit. The condenser is located on the side of your outside air conditioner. When looking at it you will notice hundreds of fins all around it. How dirty do they look? Are there leaves, dirt, and other debris wedged in there? If so, get a garden hose with a controllable nozzle. Set the nozzle to a low setting and gently spray the side of your AC unit (The condenser) with the water. Be sure not to use high pressure water as you could risk damaging the fins of the condenser. This can be an expensive repair, so be careful. Also take care not to spray water directly on top of your air conditioner.

Service Call Worthy

Ok folks, so we now have gone through every possible thing we can do before calling an HVAC company. There are some things though that we just aren’t able to fix. If none of the solutions we offered above have helped then you are most likely looking at one of these scenarios that will require a trained professional.

Low Refrigerant

The first and most common issue in HVAC troubleshooting is that you are low on refrigerant. If your system isn’t cooling your home or is blowing warm air then it is likely that it is low on refrigerant. Refrigerant is the ‘blood’ of your air conditioner. Without refrigerant your system cannot absorb the heat from your home. If you do have low refrigerant do NOT just add more refrigerant to your system. Refrigerant flows through your air conditioner in an endless cycle. In other words, you should never run out of refrigerant… unless you have a leak. If you, or your service tech, adds refrigerant to your system without fixing the leak then you are just throwing money out the door. You are going to have the same problem again when that new refrigerant leaks out.

Instead, your service tech needs to identify where the leak is coming from. Is it on the refrigerant lines going back and forth between the evaporator and the condenser? Is it in the outside unit? Or, in the inside? Once the leak has been determined the technician will patch it and then recharge your system. While the patch may not be too expensive the recharge of refrigerant can get quite pricey, especially if most of your refrigerant has already leaked out.

Also note that you may have more than one leak in your system. This can happen in the piping of older systems. Sometimes the old piping can get corroded and cause multiple micro fractures throughout the lines. In this case your service tech may need to replace the entire pipe.

Faulty Compressor

The other most common problem with a central air conditioner is a bad compressor. If refrigerant is the ‘blood’ of your air conditioner then the compressor is the ‘heart.’ The compressor is what circulates the refrigerant throughout your system. If there is a problem with the compressor then it will most likely need to be replaced.

Unfortunately, a compressor replacement can be an expensive repair. It could be a couple hundred or it could be six or seven-hundred. It is hard to gauge this as there are other factors to consider. Such as what size is your air conditioner? Did the broken compressor cause other problems? Does the system need a recharge of refrigerant?

Yes, that’s right. In some cases you could have a faulty compressor and need a refrigerant recharge. If that is the case then I’m sorry to say that you’re going to have a hefty repair bill.

Duct Work

Depending on how comfortable you are, this could be something you could do yourself. I would still recommend contacting a professional though. You could be lacking air flow due to faulty ducts. This problem doesn’t usually just ‘happen’ randomly though. This is something you would encounter when moving into a new home. For example, my old house had a big old gash in the duct work in the basement. When I walked by I could feel the cold air coming through the hole. I did my redneck fix and duct taped the hell out of it. It fixed the problem.

Depending on your house your duct work is going to run through your basement and your ceiling. Inspect all of these ducts and look for any visible signs of damage or even open areas. Please take extra caution when working in your attic as a wrong step can not only send you through the ceiling but can also lead to injury. The same caution should be exercised if you are working in a crawl space. (Many folks like to put poison in their crawl spaces to deter animals and pests… sometimes this can affect humans as well.)

If the duct work only needs a few patches here and there then you could take the duct tape approach. But, if you are finding some glaring issues then it would be best to call an HVAC tech for repairs.

Faulty Blower Motor or Fan Motor

These are two different distinct parts but they accomplish similar goals. The blower motor is located inside your home and has the goal of blowing the air across the cold evaporator coils. The then chilled air flows throughout your home. If you have a low quality blower motor then you will struggle to have that cold air pushed through your room. This can be solved by replacing your old blower motor with a new model. Also, in some cases the blower motor that comes with your home can be improperly sized. The motor itself could be working perfectly but it’s just not large enough to push the air through your home. A larger blower motor would solve this issue.

The fan motor is located on the outside part of your air conditioner. This is the motor that gives the power to the fan that is located at the top of your outside air conditioner. The goal here is to expel the heat. If the fan, or motor, is not working correctly then you will have trouble removing the heat from your home.

Other Misc Parts Within Air Conditioner

While we have covered all of the most common air conditioner failures there are always one off occurrences that can happen. As an example, in my old house our air conditioner stopped working entirely. We called a tech out to service the machine and found that a capacitor had blown. So, while it wasn’t the blower motor or the fan motor that went out… it was the capacitor that kept those motors running that broke.

Air conditioners are complex machines and you will always have a risk of those smaller ancillary parts and components giving out as well. If you’re not sure it is always best to call a technician out to service the equipment.

Conclusion

Well folks, after reading this you should have a pretty good idea of what you can and can’t do when it comes to servicing your air conditioner. While some of you may want to go above the do-it-yourself section we should inform you that the handling of refrigerant is strictly regulated.

You are not legally allowed to handle HFC or HCFC refrigerants unless you are Section 608 Clean Air Act certified with the Environmental Protection Agency. If you do not have this certification then you cannot legally handle or charge air conditioning equipment.

Thanks for reading and I hope that I was able to answer your questions,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Question

As I write this article it is in the middle of June and it is hot outside. Yesterday the temperatures reached over ninety-five degrees. It is only going to get hotter. As we get into this hot weather there is nothing I like more than coming into a nice cool home after working out in the yard for a few hours.

That cool house though is something that I, and a lot of others, take advantage of. It’s not something that you think about it just happens. Typically, you don’t think about it until something goes wrong with your air conditioner. And, of course, it always go wrong on the hottest day of the year.

In this article we are going to discuss when and if you should replace your older central air conditioner.

When to Replace

First, let’s understand just how long a normal central air conditioner should last. If you look around online or even talk with a few seasoned pros they will all say the same thing. A typical air conditioner will last between ten to fifteen years. Yes, there are always exceptions, but it is over and past that ten year mark when you begin seeing component failures occur.

Now that you know the approximate failure age of air conditioners we can now begin to see when to replace your central system. Before doing anything with their air conditioner most people wait for a failure. Let’s say it’s a hot summer’s day and it’s one-hundred degrees outside. The air conditioner is working overtime trying to reach that seventy-two degrees temperature that you set. Then, at some time during the day, something on the air conditioner fails. It could be a compressor. It could be a capacitor. It could be a number of things. Whatever it is, it needs a repair.

This is where a decision needs to be made. If your system is five years old then the best option is to pay for the repair and move on. (In most cases.) However, if your air conditioner is over ten years old then it is worth seeing how much the repair is going to be.

Is the repair going to cost a few hundred, or close to a thousand? What are the chances that you are going to need another repair in the future? A lot of times once a failure occurs it is only a matter of time before another one happens. When you get that first repair bill you will need to determine if you want to patch the leaky boat or purchase a whole new boat.

If you do decide to purchase a new system there are a few benefits that you will receive. The first is that new systems come with warranties. While most companies may offer a few years warranty I have seen some offer all the way up to ten years. This warranty protects you from unexpected repairs cost down the road.

Another benefit that you’ll see is that older air conditioners lose efficiency with each passing year. So, the energy cost involved in running the same air conditioner new versus when it’s fifteen years old will be quite different. When installing a new system you will see a savings in your energy bill. (This holds especially true if you are replacing an older R-22 refrigerant system to a newer R-410A refrigerant system.)

Conclusion

Alright folks, so now you have a good gauge on when you should replace your central system. Just know that there is no perfect time to do it. In a lot of cases it is a guessing game. If you make this repair now will your air conditioner make it through the rest of the season without any issues? Or, will you experience another failure just a few weeks later?

No one knows for sure what will happen. It is up to you to make that determination.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Question

Your central air conditioner is by far one of the most expensive appliances in your home. In some cases a new central air system can cost you a few thousand dollars all the way up to five-thousand dollars. I don’t care who you are, that is a lot of money to face all at once. The worst thing you can do is end up purchasing a new central air conditioner too early. What if your current system still has some years in it?

That is exactly what we’re going to take a look at in this article. Just how long can a central air conditioner last? What is the average life span? When should we repair and when should we replace? Let’s take a look:

Air Conditioner Life Span

In most cases the average central air conditioner will last between ten to fifteen years. When your system reaches this age you should begin thinking about purchasing a new one, especially if you have an expensive repair come up.

Typically, if you have one repair come up on an older unit it is only a matter of time before the next one arrives. After that there are only stop-gap measures until the next repair. The cycle repeats so on and so on until you finally break down and purchase a new system.

While ten to fifteen years is a guideline you may see your air conditioner die before this if the conditioner was too small for your home. If you have a three ton system but needed a five ton for your home then your air conditioner will be working overtime to try and reach your desired temperature. This extra strain could cause premature failure of the system. The same can be said for oversized air conditioners. Instead of always running though the system will ‘short cycle.’ In other words it will turn on and off rapidly which causes excessive wear and tear and you will see premature failure like we just mentioned above.

On the other hand though, if you are studious with the maintenance and of taking the proper care of your air conditioner then you could see the system last all the way to twenty years. In some cases I have heard of systems last all the way to twenty-five years. In fact, I was looking at a house the other day that had a central system that was twenty-two years old. It was a beast and the condenser was rusted to hell, but it was still running and providing cool air. If you ensure proper maintenance is taken care of then you can extend the life of your air conditioner.

When to Replace

Now that you know the approximate failure age of air conditioners we can now begin to see when to replace your central system. Before doing anything with their air conditioner most people wait for a failure. Let’s say it’s a hot summer’s day and it’s one-hundred degrees outside. The air conditioner is working overtime trying to reach that seventy-two degrees temperature that you set. Then, at some time during the day, something on the air conditioner fails. It could be a compressor. It could be a capacitor. It could be a number of things. Whatever it is, it needs a repair.

This is where a decision needs to be made. If your system is five years old then the best option is to pay for the repair and move on. (In most cases.) However, if your air conditioner is over ten years old then it is worth seeing how much the repair is going to be.

Is the repair going to cost a few hundred, or close to a thousand? What are the chances that you are going to need another repair in the future? A lot of times once a failure occurs it is only a matter of time before another one happens. When you get that first repair bill you will need to determine if you want to patch the leaky boat or purchase a whole new boat.

If you do decide to purchase a new system there are a few benefits that you will receive. The first is that new systems come with warranties. While most companies may offer a few years warranty I have seen some offer all the way up to ten years. This warranty protects you from unexpected repairs cost down the road.

Another benefit that you’ll see is that older air conditioners lose efficiency with each passing year. So, the energy cost involved in running the same air conditioner new versus when it’s fifteen years old will be quite different. When installing a new system you will see a savings in your energy bill. (This holds especially true if you are replacing an older R-22 refrigerant system to a newer R-410A refrigerant system.)

Conclusion

In the end folks it is a guessing game. There is no perfect time to replace your air conditioner. The only thing that you can do is use the information that is given to you and make an educated guess. Just try not to get caught in the trap of making constant repairs to a dying unit. If you find that you are having multiple repairs a year then it may be time to scrap and replace.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

I’ve lived in Kansas for over twenty years now and while I love it here I will have to say that the summers can be quite brutal. I’ve seen multiple weeks in a row where we have constant one-hundred degree heat in July and August. It nearly makes you sick when you step outside.

While hanging out in the pool is a good way to escape the heat it is not a long term solution and in some cases the water gets so hot that it’s not even enjoyable anymore. Most of us Kansans stay indoors where the air conditioning keeps us comfortable at a nice seventy-four degrees. But, what do you do when you come home after a long day only to find that your central air conditioner is no longer providing cold air.

Unfortunately, when this does happen there could be a variety of reasons and causes behind it. Some of these problems can be fixed by yourself even if you have little knowledge on how air conditioners work. Other problems though will require a professional HVAC service technician to come out to your home and troubleshoot.

Do-It-Yourself

Let’s hope that the problem you are having you are able to fix. In this section we’re going to take a look at some of the simpler fixes. Sometimes it is just easy, but don’t get your hopes up. You may end up facing a large repair bill.

Let’s start with the easy fix first. Have you checked your thermostat? Yes, it really could be that simple. In some cases homeowners have come home and realized that their thermostat was accidentally set to heat. (My toddler has done that before without me knowing… so don’t feel bad!)

If the thermostat is set to cool then another thing to check on your thermostat is the fan setting. Not all thermostats have this setting, but you should check yours if it has a ‘Fan’ option. Typically the fan option will have ‘Auto’ or ‘On.’ If the fan is set to ‘On,’ then that means you have the blower running constantly even when the air conditioner hasn’t kicked on. While this would account for warm air coming through your vents it would not account for a very hot home. (If it was just the fan then your house will still be somewhat cool.) Just to be safe though, I would set the fan to ‘Auto.’ When set to ‘Auto’ the fan will only come on when the air conditioner is on.

Another possible cause for the warm air blowing through your vents is an obstruction or restriction to the airflow of your system. In other words, something is blocking air flow and in most cases it is your air filter. This is the filter that you’re supposed to replace every few months. You did replace yours recently, right? If you didn’t, then this may be the cause of the warm air. Purchase yourself a new filter either at the store or online. If you are unsure what kind of filter to get check out our central air conditioner filter best of guide by clicking here.

Along with swapping out the air filter inside your home you can also take a look at your outside system. How does it look? Is it covered in debris such as leaves, grass, and dirt? Are there shrubs or trees right up against it? In the case of the trees or shrubs I would either remove them or trim them back to give the air conditioner enough space. If the unit itself is looking quite dirty then you can take a garden hose on a LOW setting and gently spray the sides of the unit. When doing this ensure that you are only spraying the hose at the air conditioner’s condenser. (This is the side with the fins.) Do not spray on the top of the air conditioner. Also, be sure to turn your air conditioner off when spraying.

Service Call 

Well folks, we have exhausted what a homeowner can do to diagnose and fix their air conditioner that is blowing warm air. Now, we will take a look at what some of the other problems could be. While you may be tempted to try and correct some of these problems yourself I would recommend contacting a professional to ensure your safety and to also prevent you from further damaging your system.

A reason for blowing warm air that technicians come across a lot is that the outside unit isn’t receiving electricity. Remember, that you need both inside and outside units working together in order to achieve cold air and if your outside unit is no longer receiving electricity then that would explain your problem. You can check your circuit breaker to see if power is being routed to the outside unit. However, if you do notice that the circuit has been tripped or a fuse has blown then you should contact your service technician immediately. I repeat, do not try to fix yourself.

Another possible reason for your air conditioner not cooling is that the evaporator coils are dirty with dust and are having trouble absorbing heat. While it is not recommended you clean this yourself this could be causing your problem. If you schedule a yearly maintenance checkup on your air conditioner your service technician will clean these coils for you to ensure they are working in top condition. (You may have to ask for this service as not all techs will do this.) The good thing here is that if you are diligent on swapping your air filters every month or two then you will most likely not have dirty evaporator coils.

You could also be having problems with your duct work. It could be that some of your duct work has been broken or disconnected. Or, it could be that your ducts are actively leaking air. This isn’t as common of a problem, but it can happen. If not your duct work it could also be a faulty fan motor. Your fan motor is the motor that gives the power to the fan on your outdoors unit. This is the fan that expels the hot air from your home. (If you were to lean over your air conditioner while it’s on you’ll see the fan moving back and forth blowing the hot air away.)

While the above reasons can be causes as to why your air conditioner is not working they are not the most common problem that techs come across. No, the most common are the two problems listed below. The downside here is that these problems can be quite expensive to fix. Let’s take a look:

Low Refrigerant

If your system isn’t cooling your home or is blowing warm air then it is likely that it is low on refrigerant. Refrigerant is the ‘blood’ of your air conditioner. Without refrigerant your system cannot absorb the heat from your home. If you do have low refrigerant do NOT just add more refrigerant to your system. Refrigerant flows through your air conditioner in an endless cycle. In other words, you should never run out of refrigerant… unless you have a leak. If you, or your service tech, adds refrigerant to your system without fixing the leak then you are just throwing money out the door. You are going to have the same problem again when that new refrigerant leaks out.

Instead, your service tech needs to identify where the leak is coming from. Is it on the refrigerant lines going back and forth between the evaporator and the condenser? Is it in the outside unit? Or, in the inside? Once the leak has been determined the technician will patch it and then recharge your system. While the patch may not be too expensive the recharge of refrigerant can get quite pricey, especially if most of your refrigerant has already leaked out.

Also note that you may have more than one leak in your system. This can happen in the piping of older systems. Sometimes the old piping can get corroded and cause multiple micro fractures throughout the lines. In this case your service tech may need to replace the entire pipe.

Compressor Problems

The other most common problem with a central air conditioner is a bad compressor. If refrigerant is the ‘blood’ of your air conditioner then the compressor is the ‘heart.’ The compressor is what circulates the refrigerant throughout your system. If there is a problem with the compressor then it will most likely need to be replaced.

Unfortunately, a compressor replacement can be an expensive repair. It could be a couple hundred or it could be six or seven-hundred. It is hard to gauge this as there are other factors to consider. Such as what size is your air conditioner? Did the broken compressor cause other problems? Does the system need a recharge of refrigerant?

Yes, that’s right. In some cases you could have a faulty compressor and need a refrigerant recharge. If that is the case then I’m sorry to say that you’re going to have a hefty repair bill.

Conclusion

Here’s hoping that you do not have to face an expensive repair bill. But, if you do end up having to pay five-hundred or even a thousand dollar repair bill it may be time to ask yourself should I pay for the repairs or should I invest in an entirely new air conditioner?

The question to this answer depends on how old your AC is and how many problems you have had with it in the past. If the system is five or seven years old and has been moving right along without many issues then I would hold onto it and pay the repair.

However, if your system is ten or even fifteen years old and this is the third or fourth repair you’ve made in recent years then it may be time to consider scrapping it and purchasing a new system entirely. Yes, it is a lot of upfront cost but the upside here is that you’re throwing money down the drain every season when something else breaks on your current air conditioner. At least with a new system you get peace of mind and know that you aren’t going to have a problem for quite a while. You most likely will get a two or three year warranty as well with the purchase.

All that being said though, I have seen air conditioners last past twenty years. I was looking at a house the other day that had a split system that was twenty-two years old. It was still going strong too. The condenser looked terrible and was covered in rust… but it was still cooling. I don’t know how much money the owners had invested into that unit over the years so it’s hard to gauge.

It’s all a matter of perspective. Do you want to spend a bit of money each year and limp your air conditioner along, or do you want to purchase a new system and have peace of mind for the next five or so years. The choice is yours but I hope this article was helpful and pointed you in the right direction.

Thanks,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

The other day it was ninety four degrees outside. It was a typical Kansas City summer day. I was driving home from work with the air conditioner going. I pulled into the garage and walked into my house expecting to be greeted by nice cold air. Instead, the thermostat read high into the eighties.

I checked to make sure the air conditioner was on… and it was. Next I walked over to a nearby vent and put my hands in front of it. There was air blowing into the house, but it wasn’t cold. Instead it was slightly warm, some would say lukewarm. I tried shutting off the air conditioner and turning it back on, but the problem persisted. I inspected the outside unit and the inside unit but saw nothing out of the ordinary. It seemed that I was stumped.

If you’re reading this article then I can only assume that you are going through the same, if not similar, issue. When you run into warm air coming out of your vents it could be caused by a variety of issues. In order to figure out what is going wrong with your system you are going to have to do some troubleshooting. Some of this you should be able to do yourself and others you will need a professional technician.

Do-It-Yourself

First, let’s take a look at the things that you can check or even try to fix yourself. After all, it is always better to try and fix the problem yourself and save the expenditure of a service call and or repair.

Let’s start with the easy fix first. Have you checked your thermostat? Yes, it really could be that simple. In some cases homeowners have come home and realized that their thermostat was accidentally set to heat. (My toddler has done that before without me knowing… so don’t feel bad!)

If the thermostat is set to cool then another thing to check on your thermostat is the fan setting. Not all thermostats have this setting, but you should check yours if it has a ‘Fan’ option. Typically the fan option will have ‘Auto’ or ‘On.’ If the fan is set to ‘On,’ then that means you have the blower running constantly even when the air conditioner hasn’t kicked on. While this would account for warm air coming through your vents it would not account for a very hot home. (If it was just the fan then your house will still be somewhat cool.) Just to be safe though, I would set the fan to ‘Auto.’ When set to ‘Auto’ the fan will only come on when the air conditioner is on.

Another possible cause for the warm air blowing through your vents is an obstruction or restriction to the airflow of your system. In other words, something is blocking air flow and in most cases it is your air filter. This is the filter that you’re supposed to replace every few months. You did replace yours recently, right? If you didn’t, then this may be the cause of the warm air. Purchase yourself a new filter either at the store or online. If you are unsure what kind of filter to get check out our central air conditioner filter best of guide by clicking here.

Along with swapping out the air filter inside your home you can also take a look at your outside system. How does it look? Is it covered in debris such as leaves, grass, and dirt? Are there shrubs or trees right up against it? In the case of the trees or shrubs I would either remove them or trim them back to give the air conditioner enough space. If the unit itself is looking quite dirty then you can take a garden hose on a LOW setting and gently spray the sides of the unit. When doing this ensure that you are only spraying the hose at the air conditioner’s condenser. (This is the side with the fins.) Do not spray on the top of the air conditioner. Also, be sure to turn your air conditioner off when spraying.

Service Call Causes

Well folks, we have exhausted what a homeowner can do to diagnose and fix their air conditioner that is blowing warm air. Now, we will take a look at what some of the other problems could be. While you may be tempted to try and correct some of these problems yourself I would recommend contacting a professional to ensure your safety and to also prevent you from further damaging your system.

A reason for blowing warm air that technicians come across a lot is that the outside unit isn’t receiving electricity. Remember, that you need both inside and outside units working together in order to achieve cold air and if your outside unit is no longer receiving electricity then that would explain your problem. You can check your circuit breaker to see if power is being routed to the outside unit. However, if you do notice that the circuit has been tripped or a fuse has blown then you should contact your service technician immediately. I repeat, do not try to fix yourself.

Another possible reason for your air conditioner not cooling is that the evaporator coils are dirty with dust and are having trouble absorbing heat. While it is not recommended you clean this yourself this could be causing your problem. If you schedule a yearly maintenance checkup on your air conditioner your service technician will clean these coils for you to ensure they are working in top condition. (You may have to ask for this service as not all techs will do this.) The good thing here is that if you are diligent on swapping your air filters every month or two then you will most likely not have dirty evaporator coils.

You could also be having problems with your duct work. It could be that some of your duct work has been broken or disconnected. Or, it could be that your ducts are actively leaking air. This isn’t as common of a problem, but it can happen. If not your duct work it could also be a faulty fan motor. Your fan motor is the motor that gives the power to the fan on your outdoors unit. This is the fan that expels the hot air from your home. (If you were to lean over your air conditioner while it’s on you’ll see the fan moving back and forth blowing the hot air away.)

While the above reasons can be causes as to why your air conditioner is not working they are not the most common problem that techs come across. No, the most common are the two problems listed below. The downside here is that these problems can be quite expensive to fix. Let’s take a look:

Low Refrigerant

If your system isn’t cooling your home or is blowing warm air then it is likely that it is low on refrigerant. Refrigerant is the ‘blood’ of your air conditioner. Without refrigerant your system cannot absorb the heat from your home. If you do have low refrigerant do NOT just add more refrigerant to your system. Refrigerant flows through your air conditioner in an endless cycle. In other words, you should never run out of refrigerant… unless you have a leak. If you, or your service tech, adds refrigerant to your system without fixing the leak then you are just throwing money out the door. You are going to have the same problem again when that new refrigerant leaks out.

Instead, your service tech needs to identify where the leak is coming from. Is it on the refrigerant lines going back and forth between the evaporator and the condenser? Is it in the outside unit? Or, in the inside? Once the leak has been determined the technician will patch it and then recharge your system. While the patch may not be too expensive the recharge of refrigerant can get quite pricey, especially if most of your refrigerant has already leaked out.

Also note that you may have more than one leak in your system. This can happen in the piping of older systems. Sometimes the old piping can get corroded and cause multiple micro fractures throughout the lines. In this case your service tech may need to replace the entire pipe.

Compressor Problems

The other most common problem with a central air conditioner is a bad compressor. If refrigerant is the ‘blood’ of your air conditioner then the compressor is the ‘heart.’ The compressor is what circulates the refrigerant throughout your system. If there is a problem with the compressor then it will most likely need to be replaced.

Unfortunately, a compressor replacement can be an expensive repair. It could be a couple hundred or it could be six or seven-hundred. It is hard to gauge this as there are other factors to consider. Such as what size is your air conditioner? Did the broken compressor cause other problems? Does the system need a recharge of refrigerant?

Yes, that’s right. In some cases you could have a faulty compressor and need a refrigerant recharge. If that is the case then I’m sorry to say that you’re going to have a hefty repair bill.

Conclusion

Hopefully this article was able to guide you in the right direction on how to fix your air conditioner. Going back to my story from above, I was able to get my air conditioner fixed. It ended up being a combination of things. The evaporator coils needed cleaning, I swapped out the filter, and I found that the blower motor wasn’t large enough for my home so the air being pushed through didn’t have much force behind it and it was having trouble absorbing heat. All of this together accounted for the warm air that I was feeling. I can safely say that today my home is back to seventy-two degrees where it should be!

If you find yourself in the position where you are facing a large repair you should always weigh the decision if you should make the repair or if you should purchase a whole new system. For example, let’s say you have been quoted twelve-hundred dollars for a compressor repair, refrigerant recharge, and some other minor repairs. Should you spend twelve-hundred dollars? Or, should you purchase a whole new air conditioner?

In this scenario I would weigh my decision on how old my air conditioner was. If it was only five years old or so then I would continue on with the status quo. However, if the air conditioner was ten or even fifteen years old then I would definitely consider purchasing a whole new system. While some air conditioners can last as long as twenty or more years you will start sinking money into it with each passing year.

Be sure to think this over before investing money into a failing machine. It is never a good feeling to invest a thousand dollars into your air conditioner only to have something else fail a few months down the road.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Update

Well folks, we are now halfway through the year and there are only six months left until the January 1st, 2020 deadline hits for R-22 refrigerant. Yes, in just six months we will no longer be able to import or produce R-22 refrigerant within the United States. When that date arrives the only way to obtain R-22 will be through reclaimed product or through a distributor who stockpiled the virgin refrigerant before the deadline came.

As the date came closer everyone thought that the prices would go up and up. In fact, as the 2019 year has progressed we have seen the opposite. It seems that with each passing month the price on R-22 is going down and down. In many circles I have seen the price for a thirty pound cylinder drop under three-hundred dollars. While there is no way to tell for certain why we are seeing such a drop in pricing there are a couple of factors that could be playing a part.

We already saw the massive price increase back in the summer of 2017. At one point prices were as high as seven-hundred dollars a cylinder. This increase was mostly speculation. Folks knew that the end was coming so they tried to make as much profit as they could. The problem was that with such a high price point customers began looking for alternatives to R-22. With prices as high as they were alternatives were a viable possibility and we saw dozens of R-22 alternatives come to the marketplace.

The surplus of alternatives and the end of the 2017 season caused the prices to slowly settle back down. Ever since the fall of 2017 we have seen R-22 prices slowly slide down. However, this year is the lowest I have seen it in years. I had thought earlier this year that if prices were to go up it would either be mid-summer or at the end of the year when the phase out went into effect. So far though, summer has seen pricing do down. I believe this is caused by the refrigerant distributors dumping their R-22 virgin product.

The phase out is coming and the machines that are using R-22 are getting older and older. At a minimum they are over nine years old. (Remember, no new R-22 machines allowed starting in 2010.) The demand for R-22 will shrink with each passing year. It is a war of attrition. What we may be seeing now is distributors just cutting ties with the refrigerant, or at least they are significantly lowering their product on hand before the phase out goes into effect. After all, if they hold on to it for too long they may end up seeing extremely diminished demand.

With prices this low reclaimed refrigerant and even alternatives to R-22 are not a viable possibility. Why even bother with purchasing reclaimed or alternatives if the virgin product is the same price… or even cheaper? For reclaimed refrigerants/alternatives to be useful we have to see the R-22 price hovering around five-hundred dollars. Right now, they are just not competitive at the current R-22 price of under three-hundred dollars.

At this point it is anyone’s guess as what the next six months have in store for us. We may end up seeing more distributors dumping product and causing the prices to go down even lower. Or, we could finally start to see the surplus of overstock R-22 start to diminish. If this occurs before the January 1st deadline then we could see a significant price increase. The problem is there just no way to tell how much virgin R-22 product is out there sitting in warehouses across the country. Who knows, there could be so much product on the shelf right now that the virgin product will outlast the R-22 machines today and the price we see today could be the new normal for the next few years.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

What Is It?

Most folks don’t think about their air conditioner/furnace filters very often. In some cases they change their filters every month, sometimes every two months. If they’re like me it might be every six months. No matter how often you change it you should know that your air conditioner filter is an important part of the comfort of your home.

Without an air conditioner filter you not only jeopardize your air conditioner and furnace but you also allow impure air to circulate throughout your home. Yes, even though you may not know it, your central AC/Furnace also work as an air purifier for your home. That is what the filter is for. By changing it regularly you can continue that flow of clean air.

But, how clean do you want that air in your home? This my friends is where the MERV rating comes into play. Filters are rated by quality under what’s known as the MERV scale. MERV stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. The MERV scale is a measurement of the percentage of particles that can be filtered out of your home. This scale can go all the way down to point-three microns up to ten microns. In other words, the MERV rating indicates just how much stuff you want your filter to catch. The higher the MERV on your filter the more particles you can trap.

A filter rated as a MERV one, two, three, or four are only rated to trap particles that are ten microns or higher. These are your basic filters that can trap some mold and pollen spores. The next step up are MERV ratings five through eight. These filters are significantly better and can trap particles as low as three microns in size. This can include the pollen and mold that we mentioned earlier but also forms of bacteria.

Now, if you were an allergy or asthma s sufferer then you will want to pay attention to the next few MERV ratings. These are the filters that are going to help you breathe easier in your own home. First, let’s look at MERV ratings nine through twelve. These filters can trap particles as low as one micron in size. These could include human or pet hair, dust, pollen, mold, and even combustion particles from fire places or candles.

The next MERV rating is between thirteen through sixteen. These ones aren’t as popular and can be harder to find but they can trap particles as low as point three microns. This will catch everything we mentioned above as well as cooking smoke, paint pigments, fungal spores, and everything else you can think of.

There is another category of filters that are rated as high as MERV seventeen through twenty. The catch here though is that these filters are known as ‘HEPA’ filters and they are the best of the best. You typically find these in hospitals or laboratories. They can be very expensive and you will also have to install a custom air conditioner/furnace system that can handle a HEPA filter. If you try to use a HEPA filter with a standard system then you risk overloading and eventually breaking your air conditioner/furnace. This is due to the thickness of the filter which causes your system to work overtime to push air through it.

Conclusion

In most cases I would recommend the MERV nine through twelve categories. This gives you a high quality filter and will provide you with clean air throughout your home. If you have a family member, or if you yourself, struggle with asthma or other allergies then you may consider the MERV thirteen through sixteen filters. In extreme cases a HEPA filter and system may be needed, but this can get quite expensive as you will have to get a non-traditional residential air conditioning system to support the HEPA filter.

If you find that you are a little overwhelmed with all of the choices out there then you can check out our ‘Best Air Conditioner Filter’ guide by clicking here. This guide goes through our recommended air filters in an easy to read ‘Good, Better, and Best’ category.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How does it work?

Suffering with asthma can be a horrible experience. Depending on the person’s triggers they may be outright excluded from certain things or from even going outside during certain times of year. My father, for example, cannot set foot in a home that has a cat in it… or that had a cat in it twenty years ago. It doesn’t seem to matter how long ago it was. His asthma will still get triggered by stray cat hair floating through the home. In many cases it will get so bad that an inhaler is needed. Then, even when the worst of the symptoms go away, he will be recovering for days to come.

Over the years his asthma has gotten worse. It is to the point now that even the dogs will aggravate his symptoms under the right conditions. My mother has to give him a warning that she’s going to be vacuuming. He then has to leave the house for hours on end until the dust settles down again.

If you or someone in your family has symptoms similar to this, or perhaps just suffer from a more mild form of allergies, there are options that you can do to better outfit your home so that your loved ones are as comfortable as they can be. I’m not going to get into every possible option in this article but instead focus on one of the easiest, and some would argue most impactful, change you can make to your home.

Most of you know that you need to change your air conditioner/furnace’s filter every two months or so. But, what a lot of you may not know is that the quality of the replacement filter you are purchasing can make a huge difference. In the past I used to run to the local hardware store and purchase the cheapest filter there in the size I needed. While this filter got the job done I was getting what I paid for, which was poor quality.

These filters that I was purchasing were mostly rated as a MERV one, two, three, or four. These are the lowest of the low when it comes to furnace filter ratings. Filters are rated by quality under what’s known as the MERV scale. MERV stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. The MERV scale is a measurement of the percentage of particles that can be filtered out of your home. This scale can go all the way down to point-three microns up to ten microns.

A filter rated as a MERV one, two, three, or four are only rated to trap particles that are ten microns or higher. These are your basic filters that can trap some mold and pollen spores. The next step up are MERV ratings five through eight. These filters are significantly better and can trap particles as low as three microns in size. This can include the pollen and mold that we mentioned earlier but also forms of bacteria.

Now, if you were an allergy or asthma s sufferer then you will want to pay attention to the next few MERV ratings. These are the filters that are going to help you breathe easier in your own home. First, let’s look at MERV ratings nine through twelve. These filters can trap particles as low as one micron in size. These could include human or pet hair, dust, pollen, mold, and even combustion particles from fire places or candles.

The next MERV rating is between thirteen through sixteen. These ones aren’t as popular and can be harder to find but they can trap particles as low as point three microns. This will catch everything we mentioned above as well as cooking smoke, paint pigments, fungal spores, and everything else you can think of.

There is another category of filters that are rated as high as MERV seventeen through twenty. The catch here though is that these filters are known as ‘HEPA’ filters and they are the best of the best. You typically find these in hospitals or laboratories. They can be very expensive and you will also have to install a custom air conditioner/furnace system that can handle a HEPA filter. If you try to use a HEPA filter with a standard system then you risk overloading and eventually breaking your air conditioner/furnace. This is due to the thickness of the filter which causes your system to work overtime to push air through it.

Recommendations

In most cases I would recommend the MERV nine through twelve categories. This gives you a high quality filter and will provide you with clean air throughout your home. If you have a family member, or if you yourself, struggle with asthma or other allergies then you may consider the MERV thirteen through sixteen filters. In extreme cases a HEPA filter and system may be needed, but this can get quite expensive as you will have to get a non-traditional residential air conditioning system to support the HEPA filter.

If you find that you are a little overwhelmed with all of the choices out there then you can check out our ‘Best Air Conditioner Filter’ guide by clicking here. This guide goes through our recommended air filters in an easy to read ‘Good, Better, and Best’ category.

Also, in a continuing effort to help my father out we use the high quality filters and we also use air purifiers in our living room and his bedroom. (We use the GermGuardian AC5250PT.) Typically the combination of the AC/Furnace filters and the air purifiers keeps him in pretty good spirits.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Question

Your air conditioner as well as your furnace are one of the most expensive appliances in your home today. Purchasing a new one may set you back five or even ten-thousand dollars. It is obvious that with this kind of investment that you want to take the proper care of your system so that you can get the most bang for your buck and that your air conditioner and furnace will last as long as they can.

One the simplest and most effective ways to maintain your air conditioner and your furnace is by regularly replacing or cleaning your filter. It can be easy to forget to do this, but if you keep up on it every few months then you are not only guaranteeing cleaner air for you and your family but you are also creating a more efficient system. The more efficient the system the less it has to do work and the less chances there are of failures.

Now if you are like me, or like I used to be, then when it came time to replace your filter you would run down to either the local hardware store, or even a grocery store, and pick up any filter that met the size requirements you needed. While this way does get you a new filter in the size you need it does not factor in quality.

This is where you’ll need to make a decision. If you are worried about allergens, pet hair, or other particles flowing throughout your home then it may be worth your time to invest in a higher quality filter. This holds especially true if you have someone in your house that has breathing problems such as asthma or severe allergies. Investing in the right filter can improve things substantially for them.

Air Filter Quality

I want to take some time now and go over the various qualities of air conditioner/furnace filters that are out there. Once you understand how quality works you can then make an educated decision on what filter you want for your home.

To understand the varying qualities of air conditioner filters you first need to understand the ‘MERV’ scale. The MERV scale, also known as Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value, is based on the percentage of particles from 0.3 to 10 microns in size that are filtered out of your system. The higher the MERV number on your filter then the better your air quality will be. Along with the MERV rating there is another measurement known as MPR or Microparticle Performance Rating. This MPR scale measures very small particles between 0.3 and 1.0 microns. Just like with MERV, the higher the MPR number the smaller the items that are filtered.

There are a variety of MERV sized air filters. To give you an example of the range let’s take a look below:

  • MERV One Through Four Filters – These are your lower end models that you’ll find in most grocery stores. While they do provide you with a filter, it is only the bare minimum. They can trap pollen and mold spores, but not near as well as higher rated filters. They are rated to remove particles over ten microns in size.
  • MERV Five Through Eight Filters – This is the next step up and will allow you to see a noticeable difference from the previous rung. These filters will allow you to remove agitants up to three microns in size. This would cover your pollen and mold spores as well as certain types of bacteria.
  • MERV Nine Through Twelve Filters – Now we’re getting into the higher quality air filters. These filters are rated to remove particles as low as one micron in size.  This could include such things as human hair, dust, pollen, mold, and combustion particles from candles or indoor fireplaces.
  • MERV Thirteen Through Sixteen Filters – Ok, folks this is the highest of the high for residential air conditioning and heating. With this rating we can get as low as point three microns. This covers nearly everything that there is including cooking smoke, paint pigments, fungal spores, and so much more.
  • MERV Seventeen Through Twenty Filters – I mentioned that the above was the best it could get for home air conditioning. Well, that was correct. However, this MERV measurement of seventeen through twenty is the absolute best possible and is typically reserved for medical applications such as hospitals and doctor’s offices. These filters are known as HEPA filters and are rated to remove up to 99.97% of particles that are point three microns or larger. These cannot be used in a traditional home air conditioner though due to the increased strain the system would go through pushing air through the filter. In some cases HEPA filters can be used in the home but only after extensive modification to the HVAC system.

Now, after reading this you may wonder what the right filter is for you. In most cases I would recommend the MERV nine through twelve categories. This gives you a high quality filter and will provide you with clean air throughout your home. If you have a family member, or if you yourself, struggle with asthma or other allergies then you may consider the MERV thirteen through sixteen filters. In extreme cases a HEPA filter and system may be needed, but this can get quite expensive as you will have to get a non-traditional residential air conditioning system to support the HEPA filter.

If you find that you are a little overwhelmed with all of the choices out there then you can check out our ‘Best Air Conditioner Filter’ guide by clicking here. This guide goes through our recommended air filters in an easy to read ‘Good, Better, and Best’ category.

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

How does it work?

It can be a little overwhelming when looking for a replacement air filter for your air conditioner/furnace. There are just so many choices out there. How do you know which to pick from? How do you know which one is right? What are the different qualities, and is there even a difference in the varying qualities? What type should you get? There are so many questions when it comes to filters that a lot of folks, myself included, just buy the first one in the right size that they see. I mean a filter is a filter, right?

Well, not necessarily. The different qualities of air fillers can make quite a difference in the air that you and your family breathe. Now, if you’re lucky enough then no one in your family has any severe breathing problems like asthma or even harsh allergies. But, if you do have someone in your family who struggles with breathing then you may seriously consider looking at a higher quality filter for your home. Let’s take a look at the varying quality of filters in our next section:

Quality of Your Air Filter

To understand the varying qualities of air conditioner filters you first need to understand the ‘MERV’ scale. The MERV scale, also known as Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value, is based on the percentage of particles from 0.3 to 10 microns in size that are filtered out of your system. The higher the MERV number on your filter then the better your air quality will be. Along with the MERV rating there is another measurement known as MPR or Microparticle Performance Rating. This MPR scale measures very small particles between 0.3 and 1.0 microns. Just like with MERV, the higher the MPR number the smaller the items that are filtered.

There are a variety of MERV sized air filters. To give you an example of the range let’s take a look below:

  • MERV One Through Four Filters – These are your lower end models that you’ll find in most grocery stores. While they do provide you with a filter, it is only the bare minimum. They can trap pollen and mold spores, but not near as well as higher rated filters. They are rated to remove particles over ten microns in size.
  • MERV Five Through Eight Filters – This is the next step up and will allow you to see a noticeable difference from the previous rung. These filters will allow you to remove agitants up to three microns in size. This would cover your pollen and mold spores as well as certain types of bacteria.
  • MERV Nine Through Twelve Filters – Now we’re getting into the higher quality air filters. These filters are rated to remove particles as low as one micron in size.  This could include such things as human hair, dust, pollen, mold, and combustion particles from candles or indoor fireplaces.
  • MERV Thirteen Through Sixteen Filters – Ok, folks this is the highest of the high for residential air conditioning and heating. With this rating we can get as low as point three microns. This covers nearly everything that there is including cooking smoke, paint pigments, fungal spores, and so much more.
  • MERV Seventeen Through Twenty Filters – I mentioned that the above was the best it could get for home air conditioning. Well, that was correct. However, this MERV measurement of seventeen through twenty is the absolute best possible and is typically reserved for medical applications such as hospitals and doctor’s offices. These filters are known as HEPA filters and are rated to remove up to 99.97% of particles that are point three microns or larger. These cannot be used in a traditional home air conditioner though due to the increased strain the system would go through pushing air through the filter. In some cases HEPA filters can be used in the home but only after extensive modification to the HVAC system.

Now, after reading this you may wonder what the right filter is for you. In most cases I would recommend the MERV nine through twelve categories. This gives you a high quality filter and will provide you with clean air throughout your home. If you have a family member, or if you yourself, struggle with asthma or other allergies then you may consider the MERV thirteen through sixteen filters. In extreme cases a HEPA filter and system may be needed, but this can get quite expensive as you will have to get a non-traditional residential air conditioning system to support the HEPA filter.

Conclusion

Remember folks, your air conditioner and your furnace are some of the most expensive appliances in your home. It only makes sense to take care of them and to ensure that they last as long as they can. In today’s world a new AC and furnace could cost anywhere between six to twelve-thousand dollars.

By ensuring that your air conditioner filter is taken care of every few months you not only protect your system and investment but it also provides you clean air throughout your home. If you aren’t already, please take the time to clean or replace air filters not only for your health but also for your wallet! If you’re looking for just the right filter click here to be taken to our ‘Best Air Conditioner Filter Guide.’

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Question

There is nothing more frustrating then waking up in the morning on a day that you KNOW is going to be a scorcher. Here in Kansas City there are days in July where I wake up at six in the morning and it is already eighty degrees outside. That is never a good sign and you just know that it’s only going to get hotter. It can be downright miserable. Now, take that same morning and add the factor of a broken air conditioner. The temperature of your home is already creeping upwards and you need to get your air conditioning working now!

Chances are folks, that unless you are an expert, there isn’t going to be much that you can do. An air conditioning system can be quite complex, especially if you don’t have much experience in dealing with them. The good news here though is that there is something that you can do. If your AC is no longer working, or it’s performance has lessened substantially, then one of the first things that you should do is check the air conditioning filter. How long as it been since you changed your filter? If it has been quite a while then a dirty filter may very well be the culprit. If you’re not sure on where to find your AC filter click here for a short explanation on where to find them.

With a dirty or clogged filter you could see diminished capacity of air coming through your vents due to poor air flow. Along with air flow issues you could also see dust accumulating on the evaporator coils which can lead to poor performance of the evaporator itself. (The evaporator absorbs the heat from your home.) In some extreme cases you could even see your air conditioner freeze over. (Ice all over the outside or inside unit and on the refrigerant lines.)

If you’re lucky then you may be able to solve the problem you are having by simply changing or cleaning your filter. You may also use a vacuum in the surrounding area once you have pulled the old filter out. The vacuum will aid in sucking up all of the errant dust and debris that the old filter may have left behind. Once you have the new filter inserted then turn off your air conditioner. Check to see if there is any ice either in your indoor unit, the outside unit, or on the refrigerant lines connecting the two. If there is not then go ahead and start the system up again. If there IS ice then you will need to let the system thaw the ice out before you can start it up again.

If after doing this you are still having trouble with your air conditioner then it’s time to call the professionals. There is most likely something else wrong.

Conclusion

As I stated earlier, your air conditioner and your furnace are some of the most expensive appliances in your home. It only makes sense to take care of them and to ensure that they last as long as they can. In today’s world a new AC and furnace could cost anywhere between six to twelve-thousand dollars.

By ensuring that your air conditioner filter is taken care of every few months you not only protect your system and investment but it also provides you clean air throughout your home. If you aren’t already, please take the time to clean or replace air filters not only for your health but also for your wallet! If you’re looking for just the right filter click here to be taken to our ‘Best Air Conditioner Filter Guide.’

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ

Question

Today was the first real hot today in Kansas City. The temperatures reached above ninety degrees and if you didn’t have an air conditioner for your home you could really feel the heat. Air conditioning saves us all a lot of hassle, but the actual air conditioner is rarely thought about during these hot months. In most cases homeowners may do a beginning of the year tune up, and in some cases not even that. For many the air conditioner is just a tool that works in the background and it just isn’t thought about… until something goes wrong. When something does go wrong the repair bill on an air conditioner can be quite high.

Having a clean or new filter in your air conditioning system will not only provide you with clean air and reduce allergens but it will also extend the life of your air conditioner and prevent problems from occurring down the road. Cleaning or replacing your filter is one of the easiest things you can do for your air conditioner and it is also one of the most impactful. With a dirty or clogged filter you could see diminished capacity of air coming through your vents due to poor air flow. Along with air flow issues you could also see dust accumulating on the evaporator coils which can lead to poor performance of the evaporator itself. (The evaporator absorbs the heat from your home.) In some extreme cases you could even see your air conditioner freeze over. (Ice all over the outside or inside unit and on the refrigerant lines.)

The recommended time to either clean or replace your filter is between one to two months. You will notice that some filter manufacturers state that their product lasts up to four months. Some state even longer then that. I’ve seen a few that say up to six months. It is up to you if you trust these claims, but personally I don’t. I am of the mindset of being safe then sorry. I check my filters every two months like clockwork. But, if you want to try some of the nicer filters out that claims to last four months go right ahead… just check them every month and see how they look. If they still look to be in good shape after two months, then by all means keep it in there and see if it does last the four months. Either way, you’re protecting yourself by still checking it every month.

When you do replace your air conditioning filter you may also take a vacuum with you as well. This is an extra step, but it ensures you have a nice clean system before the next filter is inserted. Once you pull out the old filter get the hose attachment for your vacuum and suck up any stray dust or particles that the old filter left behind. In most cases you can insert the hose right where the filter was. This will allow you to get all of the remaining dust out of there.

Conclusion

Your air conditioner and your furnace are some of the most expensive appliances in your home. It only makes sense to take care of them and to ensure that they last as long as they can. In today’s world a new AC and furnace could cost anywhere between six to twelve-thousand dollars.

By ensuring that your air conditioner filter is taken care of every few months you not only protect your system and investment but it also provides you clean air throughout your home. If you aren’t already, please take the time to clean or replace air filters not only for your health but also for your wallet! If you’re looking for just the right filter click here to be taken to our ‘Best Air Conditioner Filter Guide.’

Thanks for reading,

Alec Johnson

RefrigerantHQ